Climbs 11
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)

Faces S

Crag features

Rectangular hole in the ground (The Central Quarry), with mainly bolt-protected sport climbs. The quarry is designated an 'instructional area' where groups are taken absiling etc. See the access notes.

Note that the four routes on the north wall and the first two routes on the east wall, although bolted, might have their 8mm hangers removed. Should this be the case, placing hangers on abseil from conveniently placed cliff-top trees is unproblematic.

Approach notes

The quarry is managed by the Forestry Commission, and designated an instructional site for abseiling etc, mainly to take the pressure off Symonds Yat. For this reason, recreational climbing is not officially allowed, although in practice climbers are likely to be tolerated provided that they do not in any way disrupt or interfer with the (fee-paying) instructional groups. The layout of the quarry is such that no conflict need arise. Groups who wish to book should phone the Forestry Commission Office in Coleford (01594-833057) and ask for the Public Affairs Department.

Drive a mile and a half east of Coleford town centre on the B4226 Speech House Road to Cinderford. After exiting the 30mph speed limit of Broadwell, continue down the hill a short way to a tarmac track on the left which is the drive to the Worcester Lodge Caravan Park. There is parking space for two or three cars immediately on the left just opposite the small water pumping station. Take the obvious track on the opposite side of the main road past a track jct on the brow of the short rise to another jct beyond. Turn left here, on either the track or the smaller path to its right. Both take you to the perimeter fence of the western quarry, and the central quarry is just beyond. For Spion Kop, continue downhill between two large boulders.

Access Advice

Rockfalls have created problems for group use (which is currently suspended) though it may be reinstated in the future. Some of the described climbs may be OK but inspection is advised.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Climbers can use the quarry provided they do not affect the activities of pre-booked groups.

Guidebooks

Out of print:
Symonds Yat (1999)
Wye Valley (1997)
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Grit reflections
-
E4 6a 1
2 Six Blade
-
E2 5c 1
3 Donald HVS 5a 3
4 Digital
-
E1 5b 1
5 Get On Up
-
7a 1
6 Mutant
-
7b+ 1
7 Nice Noddy Holder
-
6c 1
8 Get Down and Get With It
-
6c+ 1
9 Chimes of Nausea 7b 1
10 Desert Planet Kidz 6b+ 1
11 Crash Dummies' Day Out E1 5b 2

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