Climbs 327
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 120m a.s.l
Faces E

This photograph was taken at night. Whilst exposing I have climbed a route with a head torch on, to show the line of the climb. © neal grundy

Crag features

Height varying between 5 and 10m. Variable quality, from lichenous and friable to clean and solid. Like other soft sandstone crags, either solo or use topropes with extended slings. Do not let ropes rub the rock. The bouldering here can be fantastic in late summer, when the shady aspect means it is cooler (and quieter) than Bowles or Harrisons. Very reminiscent of Font, especially at the Northern (RH) end of the crag.

Please note there are some areas where climbing is banned as part of the access agreement. You may climb on routes from the south end (by the car park) of the crag up to, and including, Dr. Kemp's Cure. From here, climbing is banned up to and including Higher Purchase. The exceptions are the three climbs 'Sandstorm', 'The Crunch' and 'More Cake For Me' where climbing is permitted but chalk is not allowed. Climbing is also banned from Moroccan Roll to the north end of the crag. Please respect the access conditions. If you see poor belaying methods please advise on the correct procedure. A carpet sample is very useful for cleaning your feet before you climb - this significantly reduces wear on the crag.

Approach notes

Climbing is allowed now on some parts of the crag - an access agreement has been negotiated with the owners - Sussex Wildlife Trust. Please read the Crag Features above for limitations. The Rocks are a SSSI (Site of Special Scientific Interest). Make sure you know where you are allowed to climb.
Take the A26 Tunbridge Wells-Crowborough rd; 4km S of Tunbridge Wells, Pass through Eridge and turn R onto a narrow lane by Eridge church. Drive for 200m past a small row of houses to a car park right next to the first main buttress.

Restricted Access

Most of the outcrop lies within a nature reserve owned by The Sussex Wildlife Trust (Tel. No. 01273 492630). Climbing is allowed on specific areas by agreement between the Trust and The BMC - drawn up so the rare plants and rock are conserved. This is the first agreement of its kind, so please help to make it work and ensure that climbing and wildlife can continue together. Please note the description of routes in the banned areas is purely for historical records (in case the details of the agreement should ever change), and does not imply they should be climbed. As well as adhering to the Sandstone Code of Practice, please observe the following: · Climbing is allowed from Heffalump to Dr Kemp’s Cure, from Sandstorm to More Cake for Me, and from Dusk Crack to Tower Girdle inclusive. Climbing outside these zones is forbidden. The area between Sandstorm and More Cake for Me is very sensitive, with many rare plants, so please be extra careful here. · Climbing by organised groups is not permitted. · Use of chalk is forbidden from Sandstorm to More Cake for Me inclusive. Please use chalk elsewhere as little as possible. Chalk changes the ph of these acid rocks and can seriously damage the lower-order plants. · Please minimise chalk use elsewhere. · Do not remove any greenery, whether vegetation or lower plants. When cleaning holds take care only to remove loose sand and debris. · The rock at the top of the blocks above the car-park (Equilibrium etc.) is extremely fragile and is scarred with deep rope-grooves. Please use a piece of old carpet to protect the rock from the belay rope (which is necessary as the trees are too far back for the use of slings). There are no bolts above the climbs. Although the trees are close to the edge, it is still necessary to take a static rope (12m is useful) for belays where the trees are some distance back - esp. for routes above the car park, the Fandango block and for Eridge Tower.

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Guidebooks

Southern Sandstone Climbs

The Southern Sandstone Rockfax covers the climbing situated in the Southeast of England on the borders of Kent and East Sussex.The book covers the climbing and bouldering in the usual Rockfax style - big full-colour photo-topos, detailed maps and full text descriptions - all lavishly supported by some great action photography.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Southern sandstone bouldering (2012)
Southern Sandstone (2008)

Out of print:
loads of top quality bouldering, but please keep the chalk to a minimum and only climb in the designated areas as stated on the sign in the car park. very unstable access at the moment.
ian h - 26/Nov/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Elephant's Head
2 Heffalump f2+ 5
3 Heffalump - Right f3+ 1
4 Elephant's Tail 3b 3b 4
5 Y Crack 5a 4c * 10
6 Elephant's Arse 6c 6a * 1
7 Elephant's Head 6b+ 5c ** 4
8 Elephant's Chode f6B *  
  Mammoth Wall
10 Diagonal 7b 6b * 3
11 Darkness f7A 4
12 Mammoth Wall 6b 5b * 7
13 Wall E Mammoth 6b+ 5c 1
14 Tusk 6a+ 5b  
15 Tusk Direct 6b 5c  
16 Trunk Route
-
none 3a 1
17 Joshua f7B * 1
18 Lord of the Light f6B+ 1
  Royal Oak Boulder
20 Royal Oak f3 * 2
21 Beaten to it f2+ * 5
22 Nipple Rash f6B+ * 2
23 Nipple Rash - Sit Start f6C 1
24 It's Pub o'Clock f4+ * 2
  Time Travel Boulder
26 Forward in Time f4  
27 Backwards in Time f2+ 1
  Columnar Buttress
29 Well Left! 7a 6a  
30 Columnar Buttress 4c 4c * 4
31 Primrose 5a 4c ** 3
32 Fenchurch 6c+ 5c 1
  Thunder Dome
34 Thunder Dome f3  
35 The Improbable Mantle f7B 2
  Master Blaster
37 Ironbar f4+  
38 Master f3+ *  
39 Blaster f4+  
  Roadside Rocks
41 Ashes and Dust f6B * 1
42 Step of Faith f6A 1
43 Inland Empire 6a+ 5b ** 1
  The Titanic Boulder
45 Master Exploder f4  
46 Chocolate Nibbles f4  
47 Caramal Nibbles f2+ *  
48 Hot Stepper f3+  
49 Analord f3 **  
50 Crouching Badger f3+  
  Equilibrium Wall
52 Close to You 6c+ 6a 2
53 Siesta Wall 6a+ 5b * 30
54 Innominate Buttress 7a 6b *  
55 Innominate Crack 6a 5b ** 39
56 Last of the Summer Wine 6b+ 5c * 5
57 Big Fat Tart 6b 5c ** 10
58 Equilibrium Wall 6b 5b ** 54
59 Hottie 7a 6a * 4
60 Hottie Arete 7b+ 6b *  
61 Boulder Chimney 5a 4c 4
62 Eli's Wall f6B 2
  The Watchtower
64 Nuthin' Fancy 6b+ 5c * 8
65 Libra 6b 5c ** 28
66 Too Short 6b+ 5c 8
67 Trainer Drainer 6b+ 5c * 10
68 Enigma 7a 6a * 4
69 Hanging Crack 5b 5a ** 67
70 The Watchtower 7c+ 6c *** 12
71 Narrenturm f7B+ 1
72 The Watchmen 7c+ 6c **  
73 Prowess 7a+ 6b *** 12
74 Nonpareil 7c 6c * 2
  Parisian Affair Area
76 Flake Crack f3 19
77 Cracking Up f5 * 12
78 Sansara f7A+ ** 5
79 Sansara Right-Hand f7A * 1
80 Bivouac Chimney f3 14
81 Geronimo f3 * 17
82 Truncate f3 * 17
83 Yankee Affair f7A ** 1
84 The phantom shitter strikes again f7B+ ** 1
85 Parisian Affair f6A+ ** 62
86 Too Short to Mention f6A+ ** 12
87 Eridge Lip Traverse f7A+ 5
88 HardLip f7B  
89 Brutus f7C+ 1
90 Brutus Maximus f8A  
91 Even Shorter Mention f6A * 14
92 6:00 a.m Route f4 28
93 Condom Corner f6A+ * 12
94 Safe Sex f6A 3
95 Dr. Kemp's Cure f6A+ * 3
  Sandstorm Buttress - NO CHALK PLEASE
97 Prelude f6A+ *  
98 Sandstorm 6c+ 6a *** 3
99 The Crunch Direct 7b 6b ***  
100 The Composition f6B  
101 More Cake for Me 7a 6a *** 2
102 Encore f6B+  
103 The Crunch - Original Start 7a+ 6b 1
  Judamondo
105 Dusk Crack 4c 4c * 4
106 Meaty Thighs 7a+ 6b *  
107 The Beguiled 7a+ 6b ** 2
108 Judamondo 8a+ 6c *** 3
109 Hour Glass 6a 5b 2
110 Snail Bail f6B * 1
111 Dinky Arete none 6b **  
112 Snail Trail 7a 6b ** 4
113 Zugzwang 7b+ 6c * 1
114 Emerald 6c+ 6a *  
115 Easy Gully 3a 3a  
Climb name Grade
116 Sandstone Hell 6b 5c  
117 Nododendron 6c 6a  
118 Splendeedo 6b 5c  
119 5.11 Crack 6c 6a  
  Yew Crack Buttress
121 Velcro Wall f7B+ 1
122 Krafty Undercutz f6C+ *  
123 Velcro Arete f6C *** 3
124 Velcro Reach f7A 2
125 Middleclass Ponce 5a 4c  
126 Spot the Dog and the Breath of Death 6a+ 5b 2
127 Yew Crack 3b 3b *  
128 Tortoise on a Spin Out 7a 6b *  
129 The leaf f6B+ ** 44
130 More Funkey than Monkey 7a+ 6a  
131 Jack Strong f7B+ 3
132 Jack Weak f6C+  
133 Thrutch 6c 6a **  
134 Turning The Leaf f7A+ ** 8
135 Earthrise Suprise f6A *  
136 Earthrise 6c+ 6a ** 2
137 Cosmo Irrazionale 7a+ 6b *  
  The Pillar
139 Empty Vee 6c 6a  
140 Hypersonic f7B ** 3
141 Patience f7A+ ** 3
142 Triceratops 6c+ 6a *  
143 Impacted Stool 6b+ 5c  
144 Brian's Corner 6b 5c 11
145 Kinetix 7a 6b *  
146 The Pillar 6b+ 5c *** 36
  Scooped Slab
148 The Exit Cracks 4c 4c 1
149 Waffer Thin 7a 6b * 1
150 Obelisk 6c 6a ** 11
151 Mein Herr 6c+ 6a ** 2
152 Slanting Crack 4a 4a * 8
153 Nigel Mantel 7a 6a ** 3
154 Stirling Moss 6c 6a ** 27
155 Scooped Slab Direct 6b 5b * 3
156 Scooped Slab 6a 5b ** 57
157 Snap,Crackle...POP!...Splat 6c+ 6a  
158 Afterburner 6c+ 6a 2
159 The Nail 7a 6b  
  Dilemma Buttress
161 Mellow Toot 6c+ 6a  
162 Big Boss 7a 6b *  
163 Yellow Soot 7a 6a *  
164 Dilemma 6c 6a **  
165 Ken Clean Air System 7a 6b *  
166 Tusky f7B+ *  
167 Nightfall 7b+ 6c ** 8
168 Iron Man Tyson 6c+ 6a ** 1
169 Communist 6b 5c *  
170 Polly Ticks 6b 5c  
  Stem Son Buttress
172 Mamba's Come Home to Roost 4b 4b  
173 The Pink Pengster 6a+ 5b  
174 Tweedle Dee 6a 5b  
175 Tweedle Dum 6b 5c  
176 Stem Son 6c+ 6a *  
177 Evolution 7b 6b **  
178 Lou 7a 6b **  
  Just Wall
180 Jude's Wall 7c 6c **  
181 Toadstool Crack 4a 4a 1
182 Just Cause 4b 4b * 5
183 Just CIA 6a 5b * 4
184 Just Ice 6a 5b 4
  Steelmill Buttress
186 Backyard 5a 4c 10
187 Jihad 7a 6a *  
188 In the Beginning 7a+ 6a *  
189 Genesis 6c 6a ** 23
190 Steelmill 6c+ 6a *** 17
191 Touch Down 7a 6a *** 4
192 Goat Rage f7C+ *** 4
193 Goat Rage - Variation f7B 3
194 I Don't Want to be a Goat f7B 1
195 Scorpion 7a 6a ***  
196 Indian Traverse f7A ** 1
197 Azazel f7A ** 38
198 Azazel - Read Line f7A+ ** 1
199 Azazel - Read Line (RH Eliminate) f7A ** 1
200 Azazel (RH Eliminate) f7A ** 1
201 Goat Round f8A  
202 Read Between the Lines f7B+ 1
203 Read Rage f8A+  
204 The Reverse Line f7C+  
205 Goat Rage Extension f7B+ ** 2
206 Lazy Chive 7a+ 6b ** 1
207 Vapour Trails f6A * 9
208 The Read Line f7C ** 2
209 Revelations 6c+ 6a ** 6
210 Poofy Finger's Revenge 6c+ 6a * 3
211 Daylight Throbbery f6B * 3
  Hadrian's Wall
213 Green Bollard Chimney 4a 4a 1
214 Antoninus 6b 5c * 7
215 Hadrian's Wall 6a+ 5b *** 67
216 The Great Bald Turkey Meets a Dwarf with a Problem 6b+ 5c * 1
217 Hadrian's Wall Direct 6c 6a 1
218 Asterix 6b 5c *** 29
219 Asterix Direct 6c 6a **  
  Roman Nose
221 Fly by Knight 6c+ 6a ** 14
222 Achilles' Last Stand 7a 6b  
223 Remus 4c 4c ** 117
224 Roman Nose 6a 5a * 59
225 Roman Nose Direct 7a 6b ** 1
226 romulus 6a+ 5b 36
227 Stampy f7B+ 1
228 Good Route...Poor Line 6c 6a * 3
229 Good Route...Good Line 6b 5c ** 40
230 Layaway 6a 5b 29
Climb name Grade
231 Scrimps 6c 6a  
232 Hipposuction 6a 5b * 10
233 Appetite for Destruction 6c 6a * 2
  Concorde Area
235 Capstan Wall 4a 4a ** 68
236 Concorde 6a+ 5b *** 65
237 Viking Line 6b 5c * 6
238 Misty Wall 6a 5b * 3
239 Shanty Wall 5b 5a 1
  Fandango Buttress
241 Cobra Kai f4+  
242 I.B's Arete f6B *  
243 Fruits 6b 5c 1
244 Eric 6a 5a 9
245 Life in the Old Dog Yet 6c 6a 5
246 Jakku f5+ ** 4
247 Fandango 6b+ 5c ** 13
248 Blenjeel f6A 2
  Keystone Wall
250 Keystone Cop f5  
251 Keystone Face f4 1
252 Keystone Crack f2+ * 1
253 Keystone Wall f3 1
  Fontainebleau Boulders
255 Paisley f5 2
256 Hartleys f4 * 24
257 Flutings f5+ * 20
258 Fluted Fancy f6A * 1
259 Boulancourt f5+  
260 Milly-la-Foret f6A *  
261 Fontainebleau f6A+ ** 3
262 Black Cadilac f6C **  
263 Oliver and His Amazing Underpants f6B+ **  
264 White Lincoln f6C *  
265 Fernkop Crack f5+  
266 More Ticks for Tim f4+  
267 'Hyphenated' Jones f6B ** 1
268 Short Work f5+ ** 2
269 Sonny Dribble Chops f5 ** 6
270 Brighton Rock f6B 1
271 Wobble f5 1
272 Pedestal Wall f3 1
273 Elastic Headbands f5 5
274 Hazel f5+ *  
275 Another Wet Bank Holiday f5+  
276 Hurricane f6C+ 1
277 Crackpot Nose f4  
278 Crackpot f3+ 1
279 Crackpot Arete f4+  
280 Crackpot Crack f2+  
281 Cameo f3+  
282 I Bet He Drinks at Kensington Palace f5  
283 Still, It Could Be Worse f4+  
284 Ooh-er Missus f5  
285 Local Vigilantes f6A  
286 Tree Route f4  
287 Pretentious ... Moi? f6C  
288 I'm not Worried, I'm a Tractor f5+  
  Eridge Tower
290 Broken Path f6B+ 2
291 Optical Racer 6a 5b 6
292 Barbican Buttress 4c 4c ** 77
293 Steamroller 6c 6a * 45
294 Battlements Crack 6a+ 5a *** 96
295 Portcullis 6b+ 5c *** 63
296 Eridge Tower Route 5b 5a 1
  Inaccessible / Out Of Condition Routes
298 Beginners' Wall
-
none 4c 1
299 Bugbear Buttress
-
none 5a 1
  SS Boulder Guide Problems
301 042 SSB (Eridge) f6B 5
302 047 SSB (Eridge)
-
f6B 1
303 048 SSB (Eridge)
-
f6A 1
304 049 SSB (Eridge)
-
f5+ 1
305 050 SSB (Eridge)
-
f5 1
306 055 SSB (Eridge) f5 18
307 056 SSB (Eridge) f6B ** 6
308 058 SSB (Eridge) f6A+ * 5
309 060 SSB (Eridge)
-
f6A 1
310 066 SSB (Eridge) f4+ 4
311 067 SSB (Eridge) f6B ** 7
312 071 SSB (Eridge)
-
f6A 1
313 073 SSB (Eridge) f5 4
314 090 SSB (Eridge)
-
f3+ 1
315 091 SSB (Eridge)
-
f3 1
316 092 SSB (Eridge)
-
f4 1
317 093 SSB (Eridge)
-
f4+ 1
318 094 SSB (Eridge)
-
f4 1
  Banned Climbs ***please do not climb on these routes***
320 Amphitheatre Crack - Banned Climb none 5b * 1
321 Scirocco - Banned Climb none 6b * 1
322 Tiger Moth - Banned Climb
-
none 5a 1
323 Twin Slabs - Banned Climb none 5b * 2
324 Cave Chimney - Banned Climb
-
none 2b 10
325 Tiger Slab - Banned Climb none 4b * 2
326 Thin Layback - Banned Climb none 5b * 5
327 Mosquito - Banned Climb
-
none 4c 1
328 Moments of Pleasure - Banned Climb none 6c *  
329 Rota - Banned Climb none 4a ** 1
330 Demon Wall - Banned Climb none 5c ** 2
331 Easy Life - Banned Climb none 6b *  
332 Long Man's Neighbour - Banned Climb none 4b * 2
333 Locust - Banned Climb none 5c * 1
334 Descent Chimney - Banned Climb none 3b 1
335 Flail Trail - Banned Climb none 6b * 2
336 Branchdown - Banned Climb none 5c * 2
337 Leech - Banned Climb none 5c * 1
338 Forgotton Crack - Banned Climb none 6a ** 1
339 Smile of the Beyond - Banned Climb none 6b * 1
340 Higher Purchase - Banned Climb none 6b * 1
341 Honest Toil - Banned Climb
-
none 4a 1
342 Green Crack - Banned Climb
-
none 2b 1
343 Gully Rib - Banned Climb
-
none 3b 1
344 Cave Corner - Banned Climb
-
none 5a 1
345 Cave Climb - Banned Climb
-
none 5b 1

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