Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 120m a.s.l
This photograph was taken at night. Whilst exposing I have climbed a route with a head torch on, to show the line of the climb. © neal grundy
Height varying between 5 and 10m. Variable quality, from lichenous and friable to clean and solid. Like other soft sandstone crags, either solo or use topropes with extended slings. Do not let ropes rub the rock. The bouldering here can be fantastic in late summer, when the shady aspect means it is cooler (and quieter) than Bowles or Harrisons. Very reminiscent of Font, especially at the Northern (RH) end of the crag.
Please note there are some areas where climbing is banned as part of the access agreement. You may climb on routes from the south end (by the car park) of the crag up to, and including, Dr. Kemp's Cure. From here, climbing is banned up to and including Higher Purchase. The exceptions are the three climbs 'Sandstorm', 'The Crunch' and 'More Cake For Me' where climbing is permitted but chalk is not allowed. Climbing is also banned from Moroccan Roll to the north end of the crag. Please respect the access conditions. If you see poor belaying methods please advise on the correct procedure. A carpet sample is very useful for cleaning your feet before you climb - this significantly reduces wear on the crag.
Climbing is allowed now on some parts of the crag - an access agreement has been negotiated with the owners - Sussex Wildlife Trust. Please read the Crag Features above for limitations. The Rocks are a SSSI (Site of Special Scientific Interest). Make sure you know where you are allowed to climb.
Take the A26 Tunbridge Wells-Crowborough rd; 4km S of Tunbridge Wells, Pass through Eridge and turn R onto a narrow lane by Eridge church. Drive for 200m past a small row of houses to a car park right next to the first main buttress.
Most of the outcrop lies within a nature reserve owned by The Sussex Wildlife Trust (Tel. No. 01273 492630). Climbing is allowed on specific areas by agreement between the Trust and The BMC - drawn up so the rare plants and rock are conserved. This is the first agreement of its kind, so please help to make it work and ensure that climbing and wildlife can continue together. Please note the description of routes in the banned areas is purely for historical records (in case the details of the agreement should ever change), and does not imply they should be climbed. As well as adhering to the Sandstone Code of Practice, please observe the following: · Climbing is allowed from Heffalump to Dr Kemp’s Cure, from Sandstorm to More Cake for Me, and from Dusk Crack to Tower Girdle inclusive. Climbing outside these zones is forbidden. The area between Sandstorm and More Cake for Me is very sensitive, with many rare plants, so please be extra careful here. · Climbing by organised groups is not permitted. · Use of chalk is forbidden from Sandstorm to More Cake for Me inclusive. Please use chalk elsewhere as little as possible. Chalk changes the ph of these acid rocks and can seriously damage the lower-order plants. · Please minimise chalk use elsewhere. · Do not remove any greenery, whether vegetation or lower plants. When cleaning holds take care only to remove loose sand and debris. · The rock at the top of the blocks above the car-park (Equilibrium etc.) is extremely fragile and is scarred with deep rope-grooves. Please use a piece of old carpet to protect the rock from the belay rope (which is necessary as the trees are too far back for the use of slings). There are no bolts above the climbs. Although the trees are close to the edge, it is still necessary to take a static rope (12m is useful) for belays where the trees are some distance back - esp. for routes above the car park, the Fandango block and for Eridge Tower.
|loads of top quality bouldering, but please keep the chalk to a minimum and only climb in the designated areas as stated on the sign in the car park. very unstable access at the moment.|
ian h - 26/Nov/03