Climbs 230
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 120m a.s.l
Faces E

Crag features

Height varying between 5 and 10m. Variable quality, from lichenous and friable to clean and solid. Like other soft sandstone crags, either solo or use topropes with extended slings. Do not let ropes rub the rock. The bouldering here can be fantastic in late summer, when the shady aspect means it is cooler (and quieter) than Bowles or Harrisons. Very reminiscent of Font, especially at the Northern (RH) end of the crag.

Please note there are some areas where climbing is banned as part of the access agreement. You may climb on routes from the south end (by the car park) of the crag up to, and including, Dr. Kemp's Cure. From here, climbing is banned up to and including Higher Purchase. The exceptions are the three climbs 'Sandstorm', 'The Crunch' and 'More Cake For Me' where climbing is permitted but chalk is not allowed. Climbing is also banned from Moroccan Roll to the north end of the crag. Please respect the access conditions. If you see poor belaying methods please advise on the correct procedure. A carpet sample is very useful for cleaning your feet before you climb - this significantly reduces wear on the crag.

Approach notes

Climbing is allowed now on some parts of the crag - an access agreement has been negotiated with the owners - Sussex Wildlife Trust. Please read the Crag Features above for limitations. The Rocks are a SSSI (Site of Special Scientific Interest). Make sure you know where you are allowed to climb.
Take the A26 Tunbridge Wells-Crowborough rd; 4km S of Tunbridge Wells, Pass through Eridge and turn R onto a narrow lane by Eridge church. Drive for 200m past a small row of houses to a car park right next to the first main buttress.

Restricted Access

Most of the outcrop lies within a nature reserve owned by The Sussex Wildlife Trust (Tel. No. 01273 492630). Climbing is allowed on specific areas by agreement between the Trust and The BMC - drawn up so the rare plants and rock are conserved. This is the first agreement of its kind, so please help to make it work and ensure that climbing and wildlife can continue together. Please note the description of routes in the banned areas is purely for historical records (in case the details of the agreement should ever change), and does not imply they should be climbed. As well as adhering to the Sandstone Code of Practice, please observe the following: · Climbing is allowed from Heffalump to Dr Kemp’s Cure, from Sandstorm to More Cake for Me, and from Dusk Crack to Tower Girdle inclusive. Climbing outside these zones is forbidden. The area between Sandstorm and More Cake for Me is very sensitive, with many rare plants, so please be extra careful here. · Climbing by organised groups is not permitted. · Use of chalk is forbidden from Sandstorm to More Cake for Me inclusive. Please use chalk elsewhere as little as possible. Chalk changes the ph of these acid rocks and can seriously damage the lower-order plants. · Please minimise chalk use elsewhere. · Do not remove any greenery, whether vegetation or lower plants. When cleaning holds take care only to remove loose sand and debris. · The rock at the top of the blocks above the car-park (Equilibrium etc.) is extremely fragile and is scarred with deep rope-grooves. Please use a piece of old carpet to protect the rock from the belay rope (which is necessary as the trees are too far back for the use of slings). There are no bolts above the climbs. Although the trees are close to the edge, it is still necessary to take a static rope (12m is useful) for belays where the trees are some distance back - esp. for routes above the car park, the Fandango block and for Eridge Tower.

loads of top quality bouldering, but please keep the chalk to a minimum and only climb in the designated areas as stated on the sign in the car park. very unstable access at the moment.
ian h - 26/Nov/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Eride Rocks - South - Road Side Rocks 
2Ashes and Dustf6B 1
3Step of Faithf6A 1
4Inland Empirenone 5b **1
 The Titanic Boulder - Eridge Rocks - South - Road Side 
6Master Exploder
-
f4  
7Chocolate Nibbles
-
f4  
8Caramal Nibblesf2+  
9Hot Stepperf3+  
10Analordf3  
11Crouching Badgerf3+  
 Royal Oak & Time Travel Boulder - Eridge Rocks South 
13Royal Oakf3  
14Beaten to itf2+  
15Nipple Rash
-
f6B+  
16It's Pub o'Clock
-
f4+  
 Columnar Buttress 
18Columnar Buttress
-
none 4a 3
19Primrose
-
none 4c 2
20Fenchurch
-
none 5c 1
 Woodland Boulders - Eridge Rocks South 
22Thunder Domef3  
23Ironbarf4+  
24Masterf3+  
25Blasterf4+  
 Elephant's Boulder 
27Heffalumpnone 2a 3
28Diagonal
-
none 6b **1
29Y Crack
-
none 4c *5
30Goat Rage Extensionf7B+ 1
31I Don't Want to be a Goatf7B 1
32Why Not Go Right
-
none 5a 1
33Elephant's Tail
-
none 3b 2
34Elephant's Head
-
none 5c 2
35Lord of the Lightf6B+ 1
36Mammoth Wall
-
none 5b **5
37Joshuaf7B 1
 Eridge Rocks Central 
39Close to You
-
none 6a 1
40Siesta Wallnone 5b *26
41Innominate Crack
-
none 5b ***32
42Last of the Summer Wine
-
none 5c 1
43Equilibrium Wall
-
none 5b *46
44Hottie
-
none 6a *5
45Libra
-
none 5c 19
46Nuthin' Fancy
-
none 5c *8
47Trainer Drainer
-
none 5c *9
48Hanging Cracknone 5a **54
49Prowess
-
none 6b **5
50The Watchtowerf7B 8
51Bivouac Chimneynone 1b 9
52Sansaraf7A *7
53Truncatenone 3a 15
54Too Short
-
none 5c 8
55Parisian Affair
-
none 6a 43
56Too Short to Mention
-
none 6a 9
57Even Shorter Mention
-
none 6a 8
586.0 a.m. Route
-
none 4b 22
59Condom Corner
-
none 6b 8
60Dr. Kemp's Cure
-
none 6a *3
61Dusk Crack
-
none 4c *4
62Meaty Thighs
-
none 6b * 
63The Beguiled
-
none 6b **2
64Judamomdonone 6c 3
65Snail Trail
-
none 6b **3
66Zugzwang
-
none 6b **1
 Sandstorm Buttress - NO CHALK PLEASE 
68Sandstormnone 6a ***3
69More Cake for Menone 6a ***2
70The Crunchnone 6b ***1
 Start of Banned Area ***please do not climb on these routes*** 
72Big Fat Tart
-
none 5b 10
73Nonpareil
-
none 6c *1
74Flake Crack
-
none 3a 17
75Nick's Tormentf7A **3
76Geronimonone 4b 10
77Tiger Moth
-
none 5a 1
78Twin Slabsnone 5b *2
79Cave Chimney
-
none 2b 10
80Tiger Slabnone 4b *2
81Thin Laybacknone 5b *5
82Mosquito
-
none 4c 1
83Moments of Pleasurenone 6c * 
84Rotanone 4a **1
85Demon Wallnone 5c **2
86Easy Lifenone 6b * 
87Enigmanone 6b *2
88Long Man's Neighbournone 4b *2
89Locustnone 5c *1
90Scirocconone 6b *1
 Eridge Rocks North 
92Velcro Wallf7B+ 1
93Earthrise
-
none 6a *2
94Turning The Leaff7B ***10
95The leaff6B+ **31
96Jack Strongf7B+ 2
97Empty Veenone 6a  
98The Pillar
-
none 5c **27
99Brian's Corner
-
none 5c *8
100Hypersonicf7B+ 3
101The Exit Cracks
-
none 5c 1
102Waffer Thin
-
none 6b *1
103Obelisk
-
none 6a **9
104Mein Herr
-
none 6a 1
105Nigel Mantel
-
none 6a *2
106Stirling Mossnone 6a **20
107Scooped Slab
-
none 5b **46
108Slanting Crack
-
none 4a 4
109Afterburner
-
none 6a *2
110Mellow Toot
-
none 6a ** 
111Yellow Soot
-
none 6a * 
112Stem Son
-
none 6a * 
113Lou
-
none 6b ** 
114Jude's Wallnone 6c  
115Toadstool Crack
-
none 4a 1
116Just Causenone 4b 5
117Just CIAnone 5b 4
118Just Icenone 5b 4
119Genesisnone 6a **21
120Steelmillnone 6a **14
121Touch Downnone 6a *4
122Goat Ragef7C 2
123Scorpion
-
none 6a * 
124Indian Traversef7A * 
125Lazy Chive
-
none 6b ** 
126Azazelf7A 26
127The Read Linef7C+ 1
128Revelations
-
none 6a **5
129Poofy Finger's Revengenone 6a **2
130Green Bollard Chimney
-
none 3a 1
131Antoninus
-
none 5c *7
132Hadrian's Wallnone 5b **52
133Asterixnone 5c **22
134Fly by Knight
-
none 6a *13
135Remus
-
none 4c **99
136roman nosenone 5a 43
137romulusnone 5b *30
138Good Route...Poor Line
-
none 6a *3
139Good Route...Good Line
-
none 5c *33
140Layaway
-
none 5b 20
141Hipposuction
-
none 5b *10
142Appetite for Destructionnone 6a *2
143Capstan Wallnone 4a 61
144Concordenone 5b *58
145Viking Linenone 5c **6
146Misty Wallnone 5b 3
147Shanty Wall
-
none 5a 1
148Fruits
-
none 5c 1
149Ericnone 5a 9
150Life in the Old Dog Yetnone 6a 4
151Fandangonone 6a **10
 Eridge Rocks Far North 
153Keystone Face
-
none 4c 1
154Keystone Crack
-
none 1b 1
155Keystone Wall
-
none 3b 1
156Paisleynone 5b 1
157Hartleys
-
none 4b 21
158Flutings
-
none 4b 18
159Wobble
-
none 5b 1
160Pedestal Wall
-
none 4b 1
161Elastic Headbands
-
none 5b *5
162'Hyphenated' Jones
-
none 6a 1
163Short Work
-
none 5c 1
164Sonny Dribble Chops
-
none 5b 5
165Crackpot
-
none 4b 1
166Cameo
-
none 4b  
167Optical Racer
-
none 5b 4
168Barbican Buttress
-
none 4b **68
169Steamrollernone 6a *38
170Battlements Cracknone 5a ***90
171Portcullisnone 5c **54
172Claudius drops a clanger
-
none *1
173Descent Chimneynone 3b 1
 Continuation of Banned area - *please do not climb these routes* 
175Boulder Chimneynone 2b 3
176Amphitheatre Cracknone 5b *1
177Flail Trailnone 6b *2
178Branchdownnone 5c *2
179Leechnone 5c *1
180Elephant's Arse
-
none 6a  
181Forgotton Cracknone 6a **1
182Smile of the Beyondnone 6b *1
183Trunk Route
-
none 3a 1
184Beaten To It
-
none 3b 1
185Higher Purchasenone 6b *1
186Its Pub-o-Clock
-
none 5a 1
 TBC location 
188The Slab
-
none 3b 2
189Tree Climb
-
none 4c 1
190Bulging Corner
-
none 5c 1
191Long Man's Slab
-
none 5b 1
192Amphitheatre Chimney
-
none 3a 1
193Patiencef7A+ 3
194Greasy Slab
-
none 3b 1
195Black Crack
-
none 3b 1
196Beginners' Wall
-
none 4c 1
197Bugbear Buttress
-
none 5a 1
198Iron Man Tyson
-
none 6a *1
199Backyard
-
none 4c *10
200Honest Toil
-
none 4a 1
201Green Crack
-
none 2b 1
202Gully Rib
-
none 3b 1
203Urrrgh!
-
none 3b 1
204Cave Corner
-
none 5a 1
205Cave Climb
-
none 5b 1
206Goat Rage Shortf7B 1
207Broken Pathf6B+ 1
208Hurricanef6C+ 1
 SS Boulder Guide Problems 
210SS Boulder Problem 42 ssf6B 5
211Problem No. 55f5 14
212SS Boulder Problem 56 ssf6B **4
213Problem No. 58f6A+ *5
214Problem No. 59f6A 5
215Problem No. 66f4+ 4
216SS Boulder Problem 67f6B **4
217Problem No. 72 ssf5+ 3
218Problem No. 73f5 4
219Problem No. 74f6A 2
220Nightfall
-
V9 ***11
221Arete Left of Samsara (Name Unknown)f6B **3
222Stampyf7B+ 1
223Problem No. 48 *
-
f6A 1
224Problem No. 47 *
-
f6B 1
225Problem No. 31 *
-
f5+ 1
226Problem No. 30 *
-
f6A+ 1
227Problem No. 28 *
-
f6A 1
228Problem No. 27 *
-
f6A+ 1
229Problem No. 13 *
-
f5+ 1
230Problem No. 94 *
-
f4 1
231Problem No. 93 *
-
f4+ 1
232Problem No. 92 *
-
f4 1
233Problem No. 91 *
-
f3 1
234Problem No. 90 *
-
f3+ 1
235Problem No. 89 *
-
f6A+ 1
236Problem No. 88 *
-
f5 1
237Problem No. 87 *
-
f6A+ 1
238Problem No. 72 *
-
f5+ 1
239Problem No. 71 *
-
f6A 1
240Problem No. 68 *
-
f4+ 1
241Problem No. 67 *
-
f6B **1
242Problem No. 60 *
-
f6A 1
243Problem No. 50 *
-
f5 1
244Problem No. 49 *
-
f5+ 1
 Location Unclear - please add a better description / location. 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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