Climbs 327
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 120m a.s.l
Faces E

This photograph was taken at night. Whilst exposing I have climbed a route with a head torch on, to show the line of the climb. © neal grundy

Crag features

Height varying between 5 and 10m. Variable quality, from lichenous and friable to clean and solid. Like other soft sandstone crags, either solo or use topropes with extended slings. Do not let ropes rub the rock. The bouldering here can be fantastic in late summer, when the shady aspect means it is cooler (and quieter) than Bowles or Harrisons. Very reminiscent of Font, especially at the Northern (RH) end of the crag.

Please note there are some areas where climbing is banned as part of the access agreement. You may climb on routes from the south end (by the car park) of the crag up to, and including, Dr. Kemp's Cure. From here, climbing is banned up to and including Higher Purchase. The exceptions are the three climbs 'Sandstorm', 'The Crunch' and 'More Cake For Me' where climbing is permitted but chalk is not allowed. Climbing is also banned from Moroccan Roll to the north end of the crag. Please respect the access conditions. If you see poor belaying methods please advise on the correct procedure. A carpet sample is very useful for cleaning your feet before you climb - this significantly reduces wear on the crag.

Approach notes

Climbing is allowed now on some parts of the crag - an access agreement has been negotiated with the owners - Sussex Wildlife Trust. Please read the Crag Features above for limitations. The Rocks are a SSSI (Site of Special Scientific Interest). Make sure you know where you are allowed to climb.
Take the A26 Tunbridge Wells-Crowborough rd; 4km S of Tunbridge Wells, Pass through Eridge and turn R onto a narrow lane by Eridge church. Drive for 200m past a small row of houses to a car park right next to the first main buttress.

Access Advice

Most of the outcrop lies within a nature reserve owned by The Sussex Wildlife Trust (Tel. No. 01273 492630). Climbing is allowed on specific areas by agreement between the Trust and The BMC - drawn up so the rare plants and rock are conserved. This is the first agreement of its kind, so please help to make it work and ensure that climbing and wildlife can continue together. Please note the description of routes in the banned areas is purely for historical records (in case the details of the agreement should ever change), and does not imply they should be climbed. As well as adhering to the Sandstone Code of Practice, please observe the following: · Climbing is allowed from Heffalump to Dr Kemp’s Cure, from Sandstorm to More Cake for Me, and from Dusk Crack to Tower Girdle inclusive. Climbing outside these zones is forbidden. The area between Sandstorm and More Cake for Me is very sensitive, with many rare plants, so please be extra careful here. · Climbing by organised groups is not permitted. · Use of chalk is forbidden from Sandstorm to More Cake for Me inclusive. Please use chalk elsewhere as little as possible. Chalk changes the ph of these acid rocks and can seriously damage the lower-order plants. · Please minimise chalk use elsewhere. · Do not remove any greenery, whether vegetation or lower plants. When cleaning holds take care only to remove loose sand and debris. · The rock at the top of the blocks above the car-park (Equilibrium etc.) is extremely fragile and is scarred with deep rope-grooves. Please use a piece of old carpet to protect the rock from the belay rope (which is necessary as the trees are too far back for the use of slings). There are no bolts above the climbs. Although the trees are close to the edge, it is still necessary to take a static rope (12m is useful) for belays where the trees are some distance back - esp. for routes above the car park, the Fandango block and for Eridge Tower.

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Guidebooks

Southern Sandstone Climbs

The Southern Sandstone Rockfax covers the climbing situated in the Southeast of England on the borders of Kent and East Sussex.The book covers the climbing and bouldering in the usual Rockfax style - big full-colour photo-topos, detailed maps and full text descriptions - all lavishly supported by some great action photography.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Southern sandstone bouldering (2012)
Southern Sandstone (2008)

Out of print:
loads of top quality bouldering, but please keep the chalk to a minimum and only climb in the designated areas as stated on the sign in the car park. very unstable access at the moment.
ian h - 26/Nov/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Elephant's Head
2 Heffalump f2+ 4
3 Heffalump - Right f3+  
4 Elephant's Tail 3b 3b 2
5 Y Crack 5a 4c * 6
6 Elephant's Arse 6c 6a *  
7 Elephant's Head 6b+ 5c ** 2
8 Elephant's Chode f6B *  
  Mammoth Wall
10 Diagonal 7b 6b * 2
11 Mammoth Wall 6b 5b * 5
12 Wall E Mammoth 6b+ 5c  
13 Tusk 6a+ 5b  
14 Tusk Direct 6b 5c  
15 Trunk Route
-
none 3a 1
16 Joshua f7B * 1
17 Lord of the Light f6B+ 1
  Royal Oak Boulder
19 Royal Oak f3 *  
20 Beaten to it f2+ * 3
21 Nipple Rash f6B+ *  
22 It's Pub o'Clock f4+ * 1
  Time Travel Boulder
24 Forward in Time f4  
25 Backwards in Time f2+ 1
  Columnar Buttress
27 Well Left! 7a 6a  
28 Columnar Buttress 4c 4c * 3
29 Primrose 5a 4c ** 2
30 Fenchurch 6c+ 5c 1
  Thunder Dome
32 Thunder Dome f3  
33 The Improbable Mantle f7B 2
  Master Blaster
35 Ironbar f4+  
36 Master f3+ *  
37 Blaster f4+  
  Roadside Rocks
39 Ashes and Dust f6B * 1
40 Step of Faith f6A 1
41 Inland Empire 6a+ 5b ** 1
  The Titanic Boulder
43 Master Exploder f4  
44 Chocolate Nibbles f4  
45 Caramal Nibbles f2+ *  
46 Hot Stepper f3+  
47 Analord f3 **  
48 Crouching Badger f3+  
  Equilibrium Wall
50 Close to You 6c+ 6a 1
51 Siesta Wall 6a+ 5b * 27
52 Innominate Buttress 7a 6b *  
53 Innominate Crack 6a 5b ** 34
54 Last of the Summer Wine 6b+ 5c * 1
55 Big Fat Tart 6b 5c ** 10
56 Equilibrium Wall 6b 5b ** 47
57 Hottie 7a 6a * 4
58 Hottie Arete 7b+ 6b *  
59 Boulder Chimney 5a 4c 3
  The Watchtower
61 Nuthin' Fancy 6b+ 5c * 8
62 Libra 6b 5c ** 23
63 Too Short 6b+ 5c 8
64 Trainer Drainer 6b+ 5c * 9
65 Enigma 7a 6a * 2
66 Hanging Crack 5b 5a ** 58
67 The Watchtower 7c+ 6c *** 10
68 The Watchmen 7c+ 6c **  
69 Prowess 7a+ 6b *** 9
70 Nonpareil 7c 6c * 1
  Parisian Affair Area
72 Flake Crack f3 17
73 Cracking Up f5 * 9
74 Sansara f7A+ ** 9
75 Sansara Right-Hand f7A *  
76 Bivouac Chimney f3 10
77 Geronimo f3 * 13
78 Truncate f3 * 16
79 Yankee Affair f7A **  
80 Parisian Affair f6A+ ** 53
81 Too Short to Mention f6A+ ** 10
82 Even Shorter Mention f6A * 9
83 6:00 a.m Route f4 24
84 Condom Corner f6A+ * 11
85 Safe Sex f6A 1
86 Dr. Kemp's Cure f6A+ * 3
  Sandstorm Buttress - NO CHALK PLEASE
88 Prelude f6A+ *  
89 Sandstorm 6c+ 6a *** 3
90 The Crunch Direct 7b 6b ***  
91 The Composition f6B  
92 More Cake for Me 7a 6a *** 2
93 Encore f6B+  
94 The Crunch - Original Start 7a+ 6b 1
  Judamondo
96 Dusk Crack 4c 4c * 4
97 Meaty Thighs 7a+ 6b *  
98 The Beguiled 7a+ 6b ** 2
99 Judamondo 8a+ 6c *** 3
100 Hour Glass 6a 5b  
101 Snail Bail f6B * 1
102 Snail Trail 7a 6b ** 4
103 Zugzwang 7b+ 6c * 1
104 Emerald 6c+ 6a *  
105 Easy Gully 3a 3a  
106 Sandstone Hell 6b 5c  
107 Nododendron 6c 6a  
108 Splendeedo 6b 5c  
109 5.11 Crack 6c 6a  
  Yew Crack Buttress
111 Velcro Wall f7B+ 1
112 Krafty Undercutz f6C+ *  
113 Velcro Arete f6C *** 1
114 Middleclass Ponce 5a 4c  
115 Spot the Dog and the Breath of Death 6a+ 5b  
116 Yew Crack 3b 3b *  
117 Tortoise on a Spin Out 7a 6b *  
118 The leaf f6B+ ** 35
119 More Funkey than Monkey 7a+ 6a  
120 Jack Strong f7B+ 5
121 Thrutch 6c 6a **  
122 Turning The Leaf f7A+ ** 5
123 Earthrise Suprise f6A *  
124 Earthrise 6c+ 6a ** 2
125 Cosmo Irrazionale 7a+ 6b *  
  The Pillar
127 Empty Vee 6c 6a  
128 Hypersonic f7B ** 3
129 Patience f7A+ ** 2
130 Triceratops 6c+ 6a *  
131 Impacted Stool 6b+ 5c  
132 Brian's Corner 6b 5c 11
133 Kinetix 7a 6b *  
134 The Pillar 6b+ 5c *** 33
  Scooped Slab
136 The Exit Cracks 4c 4c 1
137 Waffer Thin 7a 6b * 1
138 Obelisk 6c 6a ** 8
139 Mein Herr 6c+ 6a ** 2
140 Slanting Crack 4a 4a * 7
141 Nigel Mantel 7a 6a ** 4
142 Stirling Moss 6c 6a ** 23
143 Scooped Slab Direct 6b 5b *  
144 Scooped Slab 6a 5b ** 52
145 Snap,Crackle...POP!...Splat 6c+ 6a  
146 Afterburner 6c+ 6a 2
147 The Nail 7a 6b  
  Dilemma Buttress
149 Mellow Toot 6c+ 6a  
150 Big Boss 7a 6b *  
151 Yellow Soot 7a 6a *  
152 Dilemma 6c 6a **  
153 Ken Clean Air System 7a 6b *  
154 Tusky f7B+ *  
155 Nightfall 7b+ 6c ** 12
156 Iron Man Tyson 6c+ 6a ** 1
157 Communist 6b 5c *  
158 Polly Ticks 6b 5c  
  Stem Son Buttress
160 Mamba's Come Home to Roost 4b 4b  
161 The Pink Pengster 6a+ 5b  
162 Tweedle Dee 6a 5b  
163 Tweedle Dum 6b 5c  
164 Stem Son 6c+ 6a *  
165 Evolution 7b 6b **  
166 Lou 7a 6b **  
  Just Wall
168 Jude's Wall 7c 6c **  
169 Toadstool Crack 4a 4a 1
170 Just Cause 4b 4b * 5
171 Just CIA 6a 5b * 4
172 Just Ice 6a 5b 4
  Steelmill Buttress
174 Backyard 5a 4c 10
175 Jihad 7a 6a *  
176 In the Beginning 7a+ 6a *  
177 Genesis 6c 6a ** 24
178 Steelmill 6c+ 6a *** 18
179 Touch Down 7a 6a *** 4
180 Goat Rage f7C+ *** 2
181 Goat Rage - Variation f7B 1
182 I Don't Want to be a Goat f7B 1
183 Scorpion 7a 6a ***  
184 Indian Traverse f7A **  
185 Azazel f7A ** 29
186 Goat Rage Extension f7B+ ** 1
187 Lazy Chive 7a+ 6b **  
188 Vapour Trails f6A * 5
189 The Read Line f7C ** 2
190 Revelations 6c+ 6a ** 5
191 Poofy Finger's Revenge 6c+ 6a * 2
192 Daylight Throbbery f6B *  
  Hadrian's Wall
194 Green Bollard Chimney 4a 4a 1
195 Antoninus 6b 5c * 7
196 Hadrian's Wall 6a+ 5b *** 57
197 The Great Bald Turkey Meets a Dwarf with a Problem 6b+ 5c *  
198 Hadrian's Wall Direct 6c 6a  
199 Asterix 6b 5c *** 27
200 Asterix Direct 6c 6a **  
  Roman Nose
202 Fly by Knight 6c+ 6a ** 12
203 Achilles' Last Stand 7a 6b  
204 Remus 4c 4c ** 107
205 roman nose 6a 5a * 49
206 Roman Nose Direct 7a 6b **  
207 romulus 6a+ 5b 30
208 Stampy f7B+ 1
209 Good Route...Poor Line 6c 6a * 3
210 Good Route...Good Line 6b 5c ** 38
211 Layaway 6a 5b 26
212 Scrimps 6c 6a  
213 Hipposuction 6a 5b * 10
214 Appetite for Destruction 6c 6a * 2
  Concorde Area
216 Capstan Wall 4a 4a ** 65
217 Concorde 6a+ 5b *** 63
218 Viking Line 6b 5c * 6
219 Misty Wall 6a 5b * 3
220 Shanty Wall 5b 5a 1
  Fandango Buttress
222 Cobra Kai f4+  
223 I.B's Arete f6B *  
224 Fruits 6b 5c 1
225 Eric 6a 5a 9
226 Life in the Old Dog Yet 6c 6a 4
227 Jakku f5+ ** 4
228 Fandango 6b+ 5c ** 13
229 Blenjeel f6A 2
  Keystone Wall
231 Keystone Cop f5  
232 Keystone Face f4 1
233 Keystone Crack f2+ * 1
234 Keystone Wall f3 1
  Fontainebleau Boulders
236 Paisley f5 1
237 Hartleys f4 * 21
238 Flutings f5+ * 18
239 Fluted Fancy f6A *  
240 Boulancourt f5+  
241 Milly-la-Foret f6A *  
242 Fontainebleau f6A+ **  
243 Black Cadilac f6C **  
244 Oliver and His Amazing Underpants f6B+ **  
245 White Lincoln f6C *  
246 Fernkop Crack f5+  
247 More Ticks for Tim f4+  
248 'Hyphenated' Jones f6B ** 1
249 Short Work f5+ ** 2
250 Sonny Dribble Chops f5 ** 6
251 Brighton Rock f6B 1
252 Wobble f5 1
253 Pedestal Wall f3 1
254 Elastic Headbands f5 5
255 Hazel f5+ *  
256 Another Wet Bank Holiday f5+  
257 Hurricane f6C+ 1
258 Crackpot Nose f4  
259 Crackpot f3+ 1
260 Crackpot Arete f4+  
261 Crackpot Crack f2+  
262 Cameo f3+  
263 I Bet He Drinks at Kensington Palace f5  
264 Still, It Could Be Worse f4+  
265 Ooh-er Missus f5  
266 Local Vigilantes f6A  
267 Tree Route f4  
268 Pretentious ... Moi? f6C  
269 I'm not Worried, I'm a Tractor f5+  
  Eridge Tower
271 Broken Path f6B+ 1
272 Optical Racer 6a 5b 6
273 Barbican Buttress 4c 4c ** 72
274 Steamroller 6c 6a * 43
275 Battlements Crack 6a+ 5a *** 94
276 Portcullis 6b+ 5c *** 59
277 Eridge Tower Route 5b 5a  
  Inaccessible / Out Of Condition Routes
279 Beginners' Wall
-
none 4c 1
280 Bugbear Buttress
-
none 5a 1
  SS Boulder Guide Problems
282 042 SSB (Eridge) f6B 5
283 047 SSB (Eridge)
-
f6B 1
284 048 SSB (Eridge)
-
f6A 1
285 049 SSB (Eridge)
-
f5+ 1
286 050 SSB (Eridge)
-
f5 1
287 055 SSB (Eridge) f5 16
288 056 SSB (Eridge) f6B ** 6
289 058 SSB (Eridge) f6A+ * 5
290 060 SSB (Eridge)
-
f6A 1
291 066 SSB (Eridge) f4+ 4
292 067 SSB (Eridge) f6B ** 5
293 071 SSB (Eridge)
-
f6A 1
294 073 SSB (Eridge) f5 4
295 090 SSB (Eridge)
-
f3+ 1
296 091 SSB (Eridge)
-
f3 1
297 092 SSB (Eridge)
-
f4 1
298 093 SSB (Eridge)
-
f4+ 1
299 094 SSB (Eridge)
-
f4 1
  Banned Climbs ***please do not climb on these routes***
301 Amphitheatre Crack - Banned Climb none 5b * 1
302 Scirocco - Banned Climb none 6b * 1
303 Tiger Moth - Banned Climb
-
none 5a 1
304 Twin Slabs - Banned Climb none 5b * 2
305 Cave Chimney - Banned Climb
-
none 2b 10
306 Tiger Slab - Banned Climb none 4b * 2
307 Thin Layback - Banned Climb none 5b * 5
308 Mosquito - Banned Climb
-
none 4c 1
309 Moments of Pleasure - Banned Climb none 6c *  
310 Rota - Banned Climb none 4a ** 1
311 Demon Wall - Banned Climb none 5c ** 2
312 Easy Life - Banned Climb none 6b *  
313 Long Man's Neighbour - Banned Climb none 4b * 2
314 Locust - Banned Climb none 5c * 1
315 Descent Chimney - Banned Climb none 3b 1
316 Flail Trail - Banned Climb none 6b * 2
317 Branchdown - Banned Climb none 5c * 2
318 Leech - Banned Climb none 5c * 1
319 Forgotton Crack - Banned Climb none 6a ** 1
320 Smile of the Beyond - Banned Climb none 6b * 1
321 Higher Purchase - Banned Climb none 6b * 1
322 Honest Toil - Banned Climb
-
none 4a 1
323 Green Crack - Banned Climb
-
none 2b 1
324 Gully Rib - Banned Climb
-
none 3b 1
325 Cave Corner - Banned Climb
-
none 5a 1
326 Cave Climb - Banned Climb
-
none 5b 1

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