Climbs 52
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 57m a.s.l
Faces N

Will he or won't he? Will about to climb a sandstone 'gritstonesque arete' E3 solo © Oliver Buxton

Crag features

Micro routes on good hard sandstone. Most of the routes are protectable, but also short enough that some can be highballed with a mat.

Many of the grades in the current guide (2004) are way out.


Access Advice

There is no official agreement to climb here so please be discreet as the crags are directly opposite residents' back gardens and they have been known to phone the land owner if unhappy about behaviour.


Lovely little evening spot. Guide says most are graded for the solo, but most seem to be at least 1 or 2 grades out (over grading). Great climbing on mostly solid rock.
simonzxr - 31/May/15
As part of the work for the new area guidebook I recently gave the crag a major clean up - removing ivy and fallen trees etc and reclimbing the routes. Most of the routes are leadable with good protection and i have given new grades in my logbook for anyone wanting to lead them. Some of the grading in the current book is way off. There's also some new routes, mainly in the quarry. Ive also been chatting to the local residents and they seem happy with people climbing there as long as you keep the shouting and swearing down.
Mark Davies PK - 23/Aug/14
As others have said, there are significantly worse local crags in the world. Plus it benefits from being a different kind of rock from most in the area so if you're around worth a visit.
BFG - 19/Aug/14
Added some shorter problems down the river at Winterbourne Bouldering, easy problems but good warm up for climbing the solo routes.
sideshow84 - 27/Apr/14
Does anyone have any updates on access issues with this place?
Steve nevers - 15/Feb/13
cypher.....almost did exactly the same 1st time I went. Just keep walking another 5 mins by the river :)
John Procter - 25/Oct/11
Went out and found what I thought was this area yesterday but judging by the pictures I hadn't. I went over the metal bridge and turned left into what I believe was some old quarry. Which bore no resemblance to what I am looking at down below. Did I just completely mess up and go the wrong way or what? A little advice would go far because it looks like a really nice spot.
Cypher - 22/Aug/11
May pop out to try this in when I get my new mat come through, will probably look to clean up some of the topo's while there
Cypher - 22/Jul/11
there's not much of it but what is there is fantastic (but could use a short back and sides for some of the top outs).
grp - 27/May/11
This is quite a pleasant little crag if you are local, and better than first appearances suggest. The Pigbag wall is very nice. I wouldn't travel too far to get here though!
Monk - 29/Jun/10
A good spot for a few hours bouldering / soloing - would recommend a mat to keep feet clean. The place could do with a clean - but realise thats not gonna happen. Nice spot to play about on tho - recommend it! si
Simon - 19/Mar/07
I cleaned up the overhang for Down by The Riverside and Spring Onion at the end of last summer with the intention of putting in a direct finish to down by the riverside. When the weather improves i will try and clean up more of the crag an open up some of the harder routes on the right hand side.
phsharpy - 29/Dec/05
Trees at the top of the crag can be used to top-rope, although it is necessary to make sure they are extended sufficiently to avoid running ropes over the edge. Have been bouldering and soloing down there a number of times in recent weeks, and provided the weather has been good there is definitely fun to be had. The top out to 'Down by the riverside' has recently been cleaned allowing a solo without the need to finish up (too many) brambles. This is the overhanging wall to the left of the b+w photograph.
kyt341k - 10/Aug/05
With Adrian Samarra's comments in mind (02/01/2005), I imagine this experience was largely down to the time of year and resulting climatic conditions. Happily, having visited the site for the first time yesterday (13/07/05), with high temperatures and sunny weather my partner and I enjoyed several boulder problems without experiencing any "slime" or snapping rock; I'd echo Woker's comments that the rock is generally pretty firm. As for top roping, we used a useful tree (featured in the top right corner of Chris Taylor's B&W image) to secure a sling and enjoyed a few lines this way. I believe there are a couple of other similarly placed trunks serving adjecent faces. A pleasant and tranquil summer spot, but given the tendancy towards damp rock conditions perhaps could benefit from less tree cover, or dare I say, 'gardening'? Enjoy it.
Alonzo Mosely - 14/Jul/05
This place can be muddy when wet and there is no good places to top rope. I could not see any places possible to climb or boulder. Might be better on a dryer day when it is less muddy. Most of the rocks are covered in slime and ivy and the rocks snap when you try to get a grip on them.
Adrian Samarra - 02/Jan/05
Good little crag for an afternoons play about. The harder routes (generally a bit over hanging, or are covered by a higher level overhang) stay dry for longer in the rain, while the easier stuff just gets a bit too greasy for comfort. Good traverserve which can be done on two levels ( I did both from R to L, didn't look as appealling the other way round) with a wide range of holds to choose from to make your own difficulty. If you want a change in geology (for around here anyway) go to Winterborne on a sunny afternoon / morning!
Chris Taylor - 10/Jun/04
Rock is actually pretty hard for soft sandstone, but leading is still not recommended. The rock is orangey in colour, pretty consolidated in the centre and not sandy on the outside. Friction generally good and some fairly good bouldering and soloing to be had, as the crag is relatively low with soft leafy landings. There is a good set of climbs in the 5a - 5c range, with a few climbs in the lower and upper grades also. The rock can tend to be damp after rain and does not dry quickly as it is sheletered from the sun by leaves and also from the wind. Probably at it's best during a crisp spring day before the leaves form on the trees. Access is a little delicate as the land it's on is private with the odd notice indicating as such.
Woker - 16/Jan/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Riverside Edge
2 Lip Traverse V5 ** 7
3 Kingfisher's arete f5+ * 2
4 Scoop de Disgrace
E1 6a 15
5 Scoopy Doo f6C+ * 1
6 Down by the Riverside
E5 5c ** 4
7 Ain't Gonna Study War No More E6 6a * 2
8 Spring Onion
E4 6a * 12
9 Spring Onion Direct E4 6a ** 1
10 Wide Crack S 4a 3
11 Bart the Tart
E1 5b 64
12 Bart the Tart (flake variation) E1 5c 19
13 Quite Easy for Dwarfs
E2 6a * 28
14 A Soothing Silence
VS 4c 3
15 A Scary Tune E3 5b ** 88
16 St Huck E3 5c 46
17 Waddy's Rabbit
VS 5a 60
18 Forest Air
HS 4a 79
19 6a Problem
E1 5c 23
Climb name Grade
20 No Problem
VS 4b 3
21 5b Problem none 5a 16
22 Winch-a-ma-bob
VD 2
23 A Certain Ratio
E1 5a * 2
24 Buckshee Mondays E1 5b 1
25 Pigbag E4 5c *** 49
26 Release the Bats
E3 5b * 35
27 Feed the Ducks
E3 5b * 13
28 Another Fix VD 6
29 Don't Blink
HVS 5b 1
30 Feed the Habit
E5 5c * 2
31 Push Button Control
E3 5b * 2
32 Thunder's a Coming
E4 5c * 1
33 Spanish Plume
HVS 5b 1
34 Sandstone Junkie E3 5b 5
35 The Perfect Crime E3 5b 6
36 Last Minute Derision HVS 5b 1
37 Traverse left to right 6b+ 5
38 Tickle Me Up The Dingle VS 4c 2
Climb name Grade
  The Pit
40 Pit Arete V0 5a 3
41 The Pits V1 5b 3
  The Quarry
43 Ip Man E1 5c 4
44 Absolute Beginners HS 4c 4
45 The Haunting HVS 5a 2
46 Falling Down E2 5c 3
47 Never Let Me Go E1 5b * 2
48 The Playout E3 5c * 1
49 Five-Metre Arete none 4a 5
  Entrance Gate Area
51 Glad Eye HS 4b 4
52 Gully problem f6A 1
53 First arete f5+ 1
54 Kingfisher crack f5 1
55 Three witches HS 4a 1
56 Why'd You Always Call Me When You're High? f6A+ 1

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