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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 27
Rocktype Killas slate
Altitude 20m a.s.l
Faces W

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Two Hours from Midnight (Zennor Head in June) © PontiusPirate

Crag features

Single and multi-pitch routes up to 240+ ft. Rock is some greenstone, some killas slate. Some of the rock should be treated with carebut generally has good holds and protection. Amazing exposure on the lower cliff. Most routes below E1; try Zennorphobia (HVS) and Rosebud in June (HVS 5a).

Approach notes

Non-tidal but beware swell on lower cliff.

>From Zennor village, follow the lane (right of way) between the church and pub. Take the coast path twds St Ives: the cliff is by a group of rocks with a memorial plaque.

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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
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I had my only leader fall to date at this crag, on the VS 4c Sheep Dog Black Crag (or something like that), near the R end (looking in) of the upper crag. A hold came off when I tried to lunge past the first break. You get a rapidly developed sense of exposure when you climb on the other routes on this cliff. A few feet above the narrowish grassy ledge from which you start and you become aware of the big black hole beneath you. The landlord at the Tinners Arms in Zennor is now a very nice man, which is a very welcome change from the surly unpleasant git that was there a few years ago
mbh at work - 08/Aug/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Rainbow Zawn
2 Strongbow
E2 5b  
3 Blackthorn
HVS 5a  
  Upper Cliff
5 The Rumbles
S 4b 5
6 The Bumbles
VS 5a 7
7 Cross Town Traffic HS 4b 12
8 Greensleeves
S 4a 20
9 1923 Route
VD 33
10 Rosebud in June HVS 5a * 216
11 Blind Furry E2 5b 22
Climb name Grade
12 The Royal Forester VS 4c ** 261
13 Blind Fury
E2 5b 19
14 Blind Fury Direct
E4 6a * 5
15 Choking Back the Cheers E1 5b 4
16 Sheep Crook, Black Dog
VS 4c 54
17 Zennder Bender HD * 8
  Lower Cliff (Seaward End)
19 Cry Tough
HVS 5a 2
20 Digital Wall
E1 5b 1
21 Proctoscope
VS 4b  
22 Angelus
HVS 5a  
Climb name Grade
23 Sail Race
VS 4b  
24 Glockspud
25 Avoided Issue
S 4a  
26 Climb To The Sun
HVS 4c * 3
  Lower Cliff (Landward End)
28 Paper Moon VS 1
29 The Eyass
E1 5b 2
30 Zennorphobia
HVS 4c * 1
32 The Zennor Fool f7C ** 1

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