Climbs 25
Rocktype Epidiorite
Altitude 180m a.s.l
Faces S

Leaving Creag Nam Fitheach © Fiend

Crag features

A superb crag with excellent rock and high quality routes in a sunny and remote setting where peace and quiet are certain. Crucifixion Crack(E2 5c) and Crystal Vision(E5 6b) are 3 star routes giving superb sustained pitches, along with some other good mid-grade routes. Dries quickly after rain. Fairly easy access up a good track, but the boulder-strewn crag base is pretty hostile.

Approach notes

Approach from Kilmicheal of Inverlussa via a track that starts directly opposite the church and curves up rightwards passing a hydro building before heading uphill and reaching a lochan beneath the crag.

Great crag....really? Moby dick was so-so, America was too grotty to get established on. Crystal Vision needs a some serious cleaning to allow you to get established, unfortunately I did't have a brush with me. Crucifixion Crack was the redeeming route, but only **. Ticks and ankle breaking possibilities galore - you need your "adventure blinkers" on to enjoy this p[lave. Lovely views though... (30 mins from church to crag, via the big landy track)
Alasdair Fulton - 17/Aug/16
Great crag. Bird of prey nesting chicks near 'America', keep clear. Right handhold on the top crux face of 'The Prow'snapped making the climb a wee bit harder. Lots of crispy lichen about, hanging gardens in the corners. Gashed my leg on sharp rock descending the boulders, best descent to righthand when facing crag. Great day!
Lukeyhear - 20/Apr/14
Since when was The Razor's Edge VS. it is most definitely HVS all the way. Blooming Moderator needs to do his job properly. In both Latter and SMC as HVS as well.
Tim Clarke - 31/Mar/12
Robert and I have just had a brilliant days climbing here. Six routes from VS to E3 were all *** in our humble opinions. Out of the way so needs a drive and wild camp by the sea loch before heading up to the church. Well worth the visit. Ps the crag moderator is a disgrace, he has never been there!
Tim Clarke - 31/Mar/12
Seems to be some confusion between the write-up and the route list about the grade of Crystal Vision.
Safe - 25/Oct/10
The path to the north of the Lussa is now marked on the latest (2007) Edition of OS Explorer Sheet 358.
ianfc - 14/Oct/07
No need to cross any streams at all. A landrover track takes you all the way to the crag as stated in the SMC guide from Kilmichael of Inverlussa but doesn't seem to be marked on any maps. Super wee crag, gt rock but a battle at times to get to routes with the undergrowth and ankle breaking holes!
graeme gatherer - 14/Aug/06
Nice crag in a area where there isn't a lot else close by. Nice V.diff (moby dick?) up the front of the huge leaning slab seen clearly in the photos. Bolts at the top for belays but one hanger wobbly. Razors edge- VS 5a a bit further down the crag is a bootiful layback with a cruxy start. Descent from crag is best on left hand side as you face the crag, otherwise it's a very steep heather scramble on the right. Allow 45mins to get from car to crag as the boulders at the bottom are a killer. They've recently taken away the bridge crossing the stream so in high water access might be a problem.
Nicola Seal - 29/Sep/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Moby Dick
-
VD 42
2 Captain Ahab HVS 5a * 7
3 Maneater E3 5c ** 1
4 Temptation E3 5c * 1
5 Crucifixion Crack E2 5c *** 21
6 Pocket Wall
-
E1 5b ** 32
7 Razor's Edge HVS 5a *** 45
8 Trundle Crack S 5
9 The Changeling E5 6a **  
10 Metamorphosis E2 5c *  
11 America
-
VS 4c ** 22
12 The Trial
-
E2 5c ** 9
13 The Castle VD 6
14 The Prow
-
E1 5b ** 14
15 Crystal Vision E5 6a *** 2
16 Not Waving, But Drowning E6 6b *** 1
17 The Corner VS 4b 5
18 Baffin Crack
-
S 5
19 Badile Crack
-
S 4b 8
20 Badile Variations HVS 5a  
21 Chamonix Crack VS 4c * 9
22 Peregrine Crack HVS 5a 2
23 Eastern Groove S 5

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