Climbs 146
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 1231m a.s.l

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Off! (Nothing Shocking, 5.13-) © Jonas Wiklund

Crag features

From bouldering to 20+ pitch free climbs, all about 17 miles West of the Las Vegas strip. There are lots of long trad routes and a some multipitch routes that are almost sport climbs. The rock is unique, having in many places a "desert varnish," which is a hard surface mineral layer that weathers to provide all kinds of face holds. This means there is relatively little pure Indian Creek style sandstone crack climbing, and in addition to relatively featured crack routes, there are all kinds of face climbs. The approaches are usually not terribly long, but can be demanding in terms of both effort and route-finding.

The range runs North-South, and is split by East-West canyons, with access from the East, so there is climbing on all aspects except, in general, the Western one.

As in other sandstone areas around the world, the rock needs a few days to dry out after any substantial rain storm, as the danger of breaking holds rises considerably when the rock is saturated.

Summer weather is brutally hot; the rest of the year is good with the best climbing days generally in the Fall and Spring. Temps on the high cliffs are generally ten degrees cooler than in Las Vegas, and the canyons can get extremely windy, making more clothing necessary than you might think while packing up in the city.

Although only a handful of climbs are in the UKC database, there are thousands of routes in the region.

Approach notes

The official name is the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, and it is managed by the U.S. Bureau of Land Management (BLM). There is a 13 mile scenic loop drive that has many of the trailheads to climbs as well as access to the primary sport climbing area at Calico Hills. There is an admission fee for this drive and it is only open from 6 AM to either 5 PM, 7 PM, or 8 PM depending on the season. Climbers whose cars are in lots on the scenic drive after closing hours are subject to very substantial fines; however, it is possible to apply for and obtain late-exit extensions by calling a recording and leaving information about your whereabouts. This can be done as early as a week before the climb and as late as 4 PM on the day of the climb from a cell phone, IF you have reception. These rules do not apply to the parking area for Black Velvet canyon and the turnouts for Windy Canyon, but overnight camping is prohibited in these places and substantial fines apply if you are ticketed.

Agree with Dr Gav, also lots of routes have grades above the guide book and some of the french conversions are a bit out. Yaak (not Yakk) crack gets 11c (F6c+) It's a Bitch (at Dog Wall not Gallery) gets 10b (F6a).
Olli-C - 09/Jan/13
Spelled Abandon wrong, sorry.
Olli-C - 09/Jan/13
Quite a few routes here are not at the Gallery..
DrGav - 18/Nov/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Janes Wall
2 Unknown 2 5.10b 1
3 Unknown 1 5.11a * 1
4 Doctors Orders 5.10b 7
5 Playing Hooky 5.10a 7
6 Naked and Disfigured
-
5.12b * 3
7 Pigs In Zen
-
5.12b *** 5
8 Idiots Rule
-
5.11d *** 7
9 See Dick Fly 5.10d * 7
  Trundle Wall
  Tsunami Wall
12 Threadfin 5.12c *** 2
13 Aftershock
-
5.12b ** 2
14 Abandon Ship 5.12a 3
15 Tremor 5.10a * 8
16 Low Tide 5.10b 1
  The Arena
  Rescue Wall
  Magic Bus
20 Electric Koolaid
-
5.9 * 21
21 Blonde Dwarf
-
5.9 8
22 Neon Sunset
-
5.8 *** 29
23 Technicolour Sunrise
-
5.8 * 20
24 Zipper Head 5.8 2
  The Sandbox
  Ethics Wall
  Kitty Crag
28 Suffering Cats
-
5.11c ** 3
  The Great Red Book
30 The Great Red Book 5.8 ** 23
31 Tomato Amnesia 5.9 2
32 See Spot Run 5.6 3
33 Chips Ahoy 5.9 2
34 Ground Up Vocabulary 5.8 * 5
35 Dangling Participles 5.8 * 5
  Hunter S. Thompson Dome
37 Chrome Dome
-
5.10a 3
38 Crazy Eights
-
5.8 4
39 Mothers Milk
-
5.8 3
40 Squire
-
5.10c 2
41 The De-Nogginizer
-
5.11a 3
  The Black Corridor
43 The CEL 5.9 32
44 Bonaire 5.9 * 54
45 Bon Ez 5.9 43
46 Crude Boys 5.10d * 18
47 Black Corridor #4 5.11a 11
48 Black Corridor #5 5.10d 1
49 Vagabonds 5.10a * 31
50 Crude Control 5.12a 1
51 Adoption 5.11b 4
52 Burros Don't Gamble 5.10c * 22
53 Burros Might Fly 5.10b * 31
54 Psychobilly 5.11a * 3
55 Michael Angelo 5.11b 10
56 Heavy Hitter 5.10d 15
Climb name Grade
57 Punch Drunk 5.11c 7
58 Nightmare On Crude Street 5.10d * 27
59 Foe 5.11a 11
60 Friend 5.10d 12
61 Need to Rest 5.10c ** 12
62 Thermal Breakdown 5.9 10
63 Crude Street Blues 5.9 7
64 Crude Behaviour 5.9 13
65 Dancing With a God 5.10a * 31
66 Live Fast, Die Young 5.10d 5
67 Black Gold 5.10b ** 24
68 Texas Tea 5.10c 5
69 Fool's Gold 5.10b * 23
70 757 2x4 5.7 19
71 Oils Well That Ends Well
-
5.11a 1
72 Sandstone Enema
-
5.11b 1
73 Lewd, Crude And Misconstrued 5.9 * 14
74 Texas Lite Sweet
-
5.11b 1
75 Livin' On Borrowed Time
-
5.11c  
76 Rebel Without A Pause 5.11b ** 22
  Sweet Pain Wall
78 Sweet Pain 5.11d ** 22
79 The Gambler 5.11b 14
80 Glitter Gulch 5.11a ** 23
81 Slave to the Grind
-
5.11b * 18
82 Pain in the Neck 5.10a 9
  Stone Wall
84 Purple Haze
-
5.10d 3
85 Haunted Hooks
-
5.10c *** 22
86 Roto Hammer
-
5.10c ** 22
87 Nirvana
-
5.11a 9
88 Stonehenge
-
5.11b * 2
89 Stone Hammer
-
5.10c 1
90 Birthstone
-
5.10d 1
91 April Fools
-
5.10b 7
  Meisters Edge Area
  The Observatory
  The Gallery/Wall Of Confusion
95 The Runaway
-
5.10b 15
96 American Sportsman
-
5.10c ** 32
97 Desert Pickle
-
5.11c * 12
98 Sudden Impact
-
5.11d 3
99 Big Damage
-
5.12b 2
100 Promises In The Dark
-
5.12b ** 9
101 Fear And Loathing
-
5.12a *** 31
102 Makulu
-
5.11d ** 4
103 Super Guide
-
5.11a * 4
104 Range Of Motion
-
5.10d 16
105 Sport Climbing Is Neither
-
5.9 24
106 Bucks Muscle World
-
5.9 36
107 Gelatin Pooch
-
5.10a 40
108 Pump First Pay Later 5.10b 42
109 Running Amuck
-
5.10c ** 35
110 Gridlock
-
5.11a 16
111 Social Disorder
-
5.11d 6
112 A Day In The Life
-
5.11c *** 29
Climb name Grade
113 Minstrel In The Gallery
-
5.12b ** 6
114 Yaak Crack
-
5.11c *** 33
115 Sissy Traverse
-
5.13b ** 1
116 The Gift
-
5.12d *** 8
117 Where The Down Boys Go
-
5.12d *** 4
118 Who Made Who
-
5.12d * 2
119 Nothing Shocking
-
5.13a ** 3
120 The Glitch
-
5.12d ** 6
121 The Goode Dude Climb * 5.7 1
  B&W Wall
  Stratocaster Wall
124 Stratocaster Direct
-
5.12b * 4
125 Marshall Amp
-
5.11b ** 13
126 The Deluxe
-
5.11d 4
127 Choad Warrior 5.12c *** 5
128 Party Down
-
5.12b 5
129 Footloose
-
5.11b ** 6
130 One Eyed Jacks
-
5.11a * 6
131 Cut Loose
-
5.10d * 2
132 Split Infinitive
-
5.9 1
133 Split Ends
-
5.10a * 3
134 Stratocaster original *
-
5.11d 5
  Running Man Area
136 Giuoco Piano
-
5.11c 5
137 Plastic People
-
5.10c 2
138 Red Heat
-
5.10d *** 4
139 Vile Pile
-
5.10b 4
140 Galloping Gal
-
5.11a * 8
141 Graveyard Waltz
-
5.11c ** 3
142 Running Man
-
5.11c *** 11
143 Frictiony Face, Panty Waist
-
5.8 ** 5
144 L2 5.9 3
145 L3 5.9 2
146 Titty Litter 5.10d * 2
147 Nine Lives 5.11d * 2
148 The Laying of Hands 5.11d *** 1
149 Flame Rnger * 5.12a * 1
150 Flameblower * 5.10d ** 1
151 Sister of Pain * 5.11b * 6
152 That Goode Dude Climb * 5.7 1
153 Queasy Sunrise * 5.9 2
154 M & M * 5.11a 2
155 Sand Blaster *
-
5.12b ** 1
156 Ken Queasy * 5.8 1
157 Sour Pain * 5.11b * 2
158 Idiot Parade * 5.10c ** 8
159 Rust Bucket * 5.9 2
160 Test of Time * 5.10a 4
161 Destroy All Monsters * 5.10a 2
162 Divine Comedy * 5.10a ** 2
163 Count Me In * 5.8 2
164 Upcoming Meetups * 5.10a 2
165 Sponsors Wanted * 5.9 2
166 The Pumpkin King * 5.10a 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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