UKC

Climbs 199
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 110m a.s.l
Faces S

Self portrait - Inaccessible Boulder © Richard Enticknap

Crag features

Now owned by the BMC. Typical height 6m. Good aspect, often dry, but sadly chipped in places. A very good bouldering venue.It is also a very ejoyable place to climb because it is never very crowded, It is hidden away with a nice scenery in the background. I advise you try climbing here! [Oli 5/02 - but note Nick Parker's comments below, same vintage]

Approach notes

No leading. Soloing or toproping only. Take a second rope to extend top belays.
From East Grinstead, take the B2110 twd Chiddinglye Wood). Turn L after about 1.6km (1mi) twds Saint Hill and on to Stone Farm. Park cars about 100m down the road from the Farm, the path is opposite the house down W hoarthly rd. The rocks are 100m down the path go left at the southern sandstone sign.

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Guidebooks

Southern Sandstone Climbs

The Southern Sandstone Rockfax covers the climbing situated in the Southeast of England on the borders of Kent and East Sussex.The book covers the climbing and bouldering in the usual Rockfax style - big full-colour photo-topos, detailed maps and full text descriptions - all lavishly supported by some great action photography.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Southern sandstone bouldering (2012)
Southern Sandstone (2008)

Out of print:
When parking nearby to crag, please dont park sideways to road park straight in facing resivoir, you can fit so many more cars in at once!
Jamdahll - 27/Aug/14
One of the smaller outcrops in the area but contains several good climbs with a nice mix of thuggy, technical, powerfull, and plain nails routes. Recent tree clearance work has not only helped dry the crag but also makes this a very picturesque place to climb as most top outs now look across the valley. My only complaint is that the crag is becoming very popular and as a result is becoming damaged. Please read and be familiar with the sandstone code displayed on signs and in guidebooks as for many of us regulars this is all we have apart from pulling on plastic indoors. Also if you drive to the crag, please be considerate when using the layby to park, leave enough room for everyone and DO NOT park infront of the house or stick out too far into the road as this is the only access to the resevior and must be kept clear for emergency services should they need. If not, it wont be long until we lose this layby and have to park all the way down the hill.
clem - 22/May/11
Massive wear on the faces from the past few months weather has lead to some of the route becoming v tricky. Some should be upgraded. Lots of moss has grown due to the poor summer weather making many of the route green and slimey. Still a lovely place but I wont be going back until late 08/early 09 when it should be in better condition
Faceonthewall - 08/Sep/08
Stone farm is a brilliant place for a first time outdoors as i experienced last sunday. great crag:)
matt_climber - 27/Jun/08
The nearest little road to this crag is Admiral's Bridge Road, off West Hoathly Road.
rock waif - 05/Apr/07
its an amazing place, lovely scenery and never busy at all i luvit
david_owen - 06/Oct/05
Nice place to climb, but beware of thieves operating in the small car park. Do not leave anything valuable visable in your car.
frostyone - 07/Jun/05
due to erosion stone farm climb should be upgraded.but what a beautiful place it is.
brixton climber - 08/Mar/05
Although Nick obviously thinks it\'s terrible, i have to strongly disagree!, Yes te starts are difficult and yes some of the holds are eroded, but the aren\'t foot long smears on EVERY climb just on the climbs near Cat wall wich he probably couldn\'t do anyway! there 6B\'s around there! i think a good climb is to go up the Stone Farm chimney(4A), then swing out to the right and finish on Cat Wall(5C-6B), he\'s catorgorized a few of the climbs into ALL of the climbs,In my opinion Stone Farm is a very desirable location and area!
Oli - 15/May/02
A lovely setting, really peaceful, overlooking a reservoir and the bluebell railway line, complete with tooting steamtrains every half an hour. But the quality of the rock is poor. Massive amounts of erosion on the footholds at the base of just about every route. In a lot of places there were 2 foot long scoops worn into the rock where once there must have been toe holds, and super slopery handholds where once half-decent pockets must have been. To be honest I almost felt guilty climbing there, the rock seemed so fragile. A few good beginners routes, and at the other end of the grading scale there looked to be some excellent looking stick hard font-style slopery boulder problems, ( I wouldn\'t know though, as I couldn\'t get off the ground on the harder stuff!) but in the mid grades (which is what I was looking for -- around the 5a / 5b mark), most routes were incredibly eroded and looked like they had seen much better days, making them harder but not necessarily more rewarding -- it was like climbing the ghosts of routes, not the routes themselves.
Nick Parker - 13/May/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Moss Wall
2 Moss Wall - Left Block - Left f3+ 10
3 Moss Wall - Left Block - Centre f3 48
4 Moss Wall - Left Block - Right f4 10
5 Moss Wall - Centre Block f3 14
6 Moss Wall - Right Block - Left f4 2
7 Moss Wall - Right Block - Centre f3 9
  Kneeling Boulder
9 Pyramid Route f3+ 71
10 Kneeling Boulder f5+ * 55
11 Pharoah's Curse f5 32
12 Giza the Geezer f6A ** 9
13 Bisquee f5 *  
14 Kheops Progress f5 * 9
15 One Hold Route f3 68
16 Obscene Gesture f3 61
  Cat Wall Area
18 Medway Slab f3 * 85
19 Grave Digger f6A+  
20 Footie f5+ ** 52
21 More Footie Fun f6B+ *  
22 Stone Farm Chimney 4a 4a * 107
23 Chalk 'n' Cheese 7a 6a * 8
24 Kathmandu 7a+ 6b ** 8
25 Top Cat 6c+ 6a * 3
26 Cat Wall 6b+ 5c ** 111
27 FooFoo 7a 6a *  
28 Sweet Carol 6c 6a * 23
29 Stone Farm Crack 4b 4b ** 267
30 Pine Buttress 6b 5c * 112
31 Pine Buttress Direct 6b+ 5c **  
32 Biometric Slab 7a 6b * 7
33 Pine Crack 4c 4c * 190
34 The Ramp 3c 3c 51
35 The Face 4b 4b 79
36 The Face - Right Finish
-
none 4b 4
37 Root Chimney 2b 2b 45
  Yew Wall Area
  Slab Buttress
40 A Barely Independent Problem 6a+ 5a 12
41 Slab Buttress 4b 4b * 63
42 Slab Buttress - Centre 4a 4a  
  Diamond Slab
44 Slab Left f2+ 4
45 Slab Direct f3 * 112
46 Slab Arete - Eliminate
-
none 5a 5
47 Slab Arete f2+ * 97
  Yew Wall
49 Yew Just Crimp 6c 6a ** 6
50 Yew Arete 6b 5b 24
51 Yew Wall 7a 6b **  
52 Yew Left Me
-
f2 3a 3
  Stone Farm Central
  Garden Wall
55 Garden Wall Crack 3b 3b * 73
56 Remote 4c 4c * 109
57 Control 6c 5c ** 47
58 Control Freak 6c+ 6a *  
59 Control Variation none 6a 2
60 Holly Leaf Crack 2a 2a * 39
61 Garden Wall Traverse f2+ 15
62 Sahara f6B 1
63 Arabian f6A 2
64 Gobi f6A+ 2
  Curling Crack Area
66 Very Very Fat 6b 5b  
67 Thin 6b+ 5c ** 62
68 Thin - Wall to Left
-
none 5b 2
69 Chipperydoodah 7a 6a ** 38
70 Chipperydoodah - Direct Finish 7a+ 6b 2
71 Curling Crack 4a 4a ** 275
72 Illusion 7a 6a ** 35
73 Disillusion 6c 5c * 22
Climb name Grade
74 Inside Out 3a 3a 79
  Undercut Wall Area
76 Gus the Dog 6b+ 5c 3
77 Front Face 6a+ 5b ** 127
78 Excalibur 7a 6a *  
79 Mania 6c 6a * 17
80 Undercut Wall 4b 4b ** 192
81 Undercut Wall Arete 4a 4a 19
  Pinnacle Buttress Area
83 A Cheeky Little Number 6a 5b 17
84 Pinnacle Buttress Arete 6b 5b ** 76
85 Barn Door Experience 6c 6a *  
86 Pinnacle Buttress Arete Right Hand none 6a 16
87 Pinnacle Buttress Direct 6a+ 5b ** 144
88 Praying Mantles 6a+ 5b * 32
89 Pinnacle Buttress Original Route 4b 4b * 36
90 Pinnacle's Progress f5  
91 Easy Crack 2a 2a 69
92 Bare Necessities 6c 5c ** 49
93 Bare Essentials 6b+ 5c ** 44
94 Bare Essentials - Direct Finish 7a 6a * 3
95 Belly Up 7a 6a * 5
96 Pinnacle Chimney 3a 3a 36
  Stone Farm Pinnacle Area
  Key Wall
99 Key Wall 6a+ 5a *** 138
100 Key Wall Right Hand
-
none 5a 18
101 Belle Vue Terrace 6c 6a *** 54
102 Belle Vue Terrace - Direct Start
-
none 6b 2
103 Belle Vue Terrace Direct 7a+ 6b  
104 Quoi Faire 7c 6c ** 3
105 L'ottimista 7b+ 6b **  
106 Key Wall Lower Traverse f5 * 7
107 Key Wall Upper Traverse f6A+ *  
108 Extended Girdle Traverse
-
none 6a  
109 Nose Direct 6c 5c 8
110 East Jordan Route 4a 4a 32
111 East Jordan Route - No Bridging
-
none 4a 8
112 Leisure Line 6b+ 5c 1
113 Central Jordan 2a 2a 45
114 West Jordan none 3a  
115 Absent Friends f6B  
116 Arthur's Little Problem f6B+  
117 King Arthur f6B  
  Stone Farm Boulders
119 Milestone Arete f3 * 29
120 Milestone Stride f3+ ** 23
121 Milestone Right f4  
122 Milestone Mantel f6B+ 6
123 Milestone Mantleshelf - Sit Start f7B+ 6c 1
124 The Painkiller f7B+ **  
125 Concentration Cut f6A+ * 9
126 Magic Numbers f3  
127 Jump Start f2+  
128 Pleasure Dome f2+  
129 Nobbly knee f4+ 2
130 Backhander f5+ 4
131 Hairy Scary f4+ *  
132 Grooving Away f5 ** 4
133 Font Blue f5 *  
134 Step Up f3+ 9
135 Bin the trainers f4 * 6
136 Christ Will Return Slab f3+  
137 Baby's Slab f2  
138 Baby's Nose f2  
139 Baby's Wall f2  
  Ashdown Wall
141 Thomas the Tank f3 5
142 Tiny Wall f3 10
143 Open Chimney f3 * 97
144 Transparent Accelerating Banana f5+ 44
145 Bulging Corner f4+ ** 155
146 Bulging Corner - RIght Hand Boulder Problem
-
none 5b 13
Climb name Grade
147 Poohped f6A 1
148 Euro Rail f6B * 5
149 Bulging Wall f6A * 85
150 Ashdown Wall f4+ *** 168
151 Gap Traverse f3 * 30
152 Gap Traverse - Central Line
-
none 3a 15
153 Prelude f3 31
154 Epitaph f2+ 18
155 Introductory Slab f2+ 16
156 Introductory Climb f2+ ** 144
157 Introductory Climb - Right Hand
-
none 4a 15
158 Dinosaurs Don't Dyno f2 * 136
159 Introductory Climb - Low-Level Traverse
-
none 6a 2
160 Marmelade f2+ 12
161 Tiger the Tiger f3 10
162 Zog the Dog f2+ 15
  Traverse and Crack Boulder
164 Traverse and Crack
-
none 2a 48
165 Traverse and Crack - Left to Right Diagonal
-
none 1b 8
166 Traverse and Crack - Rounded Arete
-
none 5c 4
167 Traverse and Crack - The Overlap Slanting Up From Right To Left
-
none 5a 6
168 Traverse and Crack - Wall Right of
-
none 5b 3
169 Traverse and Crack - Pocketed Depression
-
none 1b 9
170 Traverse and Crack - Right Arete
-
none 2a 10
  Inaccessible Boulder
172 Guy's Route 7c 6c ** 3
173 Hungry Heart 6c 6a  
174 Leaning Crack 6a+ 5b ** 138
175 Leaning Crack Right-hand 5c 5a ** 2
176 Ducking Fesperate 6c 6a * 44
177 SW Corner Scoop 6a+ 5a *** 82
178 SW Corner 6b 5b 6
179 Wind Me Up f6A  
180 Primitive Groove 4b 4b * 111
181 Mad as a Hatter 6b+ 5c 3
182 SE Corner Crack - Mantelshelf
-
none 5c 12
183 Boulder Wall 6c+ 6a 7
184 Time Warp 6b 5b * 6
185 SE Corner Crack 4b 4b ** 104
186 Sticky Fingers f5+ 4
187 The Lost Boys f6B **  
188 Peter Pan f6B 11
189 Stinging Nettle Variation f7A *** 15
190 Stinging Nettle f7A+ *** 27
191 Southern Chimes f4+  
192 Balham Boot Boys 7a 6b 5
193 Southern Chimes Traverse f6B  
194 NE Corner 5c 5a 25
195 Diagonal Route 6a+ 5b ** 18
196 Simpering Savage 6a+ 5b 10
197 Green Wall 6a 5a 17
198 Green Wall - Direct Finish 6a+ 5a 2
199 Green Wall - Right Hand Finish
-
none 4c 1
200 Birdie Num-Nums 7c 6c 4
201 Birdie Num-Nums - Step Off Large Boulder to Start
-
none 5c  
202 Low-Level Girdle
-
none 6b 1
203 107 SSB * f6B 1
204 104 SSB * f4 1
205 108 SSB * f6B 1
206 91 SSB * f5 1
207 92 SSB * f4+ 2
208 93 SSB * f5 1
209 94 SSB * f5+ 1
  Southern Sandstone Bouldering Guide (Problems)
211 102 SSB (Stone Farm) f6B+ 1
  Personal Variations
213 PV - Peter Pan and the Lost Boys f6C **  
214 PV - Peter Pan Vs Captain Hook f6A+ *  
215 PV - Tinker Bell f6A+ *  
216 95 SSB * f5+ 1
217 88 SSB * f2 1
218 89 SSB * f3 2
219 90 SSB * f2 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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