UKC

Climbs 200
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 110m a.s.l
Faces S

Self portrait - Inaccessible Boulder © Richard Enticknap

Crag features

Now owned by the BMC. Typical height 6m. Good aspect, often dry, but sadly chipped in places. A very good bouldering venue.It is also a very ejoyable place to climb because it is never very crowded, It is hidden away with a nice scenery in the background. I advise you try climbing here! [Oli 5/02 - but note Nick Parker's comments below, same vintage]

Approach notes

No leading. Soloing or toproping only. Take a second rope to extend top belays.
From East Grinstead, take the B2110 twd Chiddinglye Wood). Turn L after about 1.6km (1mi) twds Saint Hill and on to Stone Farm. Park cars about 100m down the road from the Farm, the path is opposite the house down W hoarthly rd. The rocks are 100m down the path go left at the southern sandstone sign.

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Guidebooks

Southern Sandstone Climbs

The Southern Sandstone Rockfax covers the climbing situated in the Southeast of England on the borders of Kent and East Sussex.The book covers the climbing and bouldering in the usual Rockfax style - big full-colour photo-topos, detailed maps and full text descriptions - all lavishly supported by some great action photography.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Southern sandstone bouldering (2012)
Southern Sandstone (2008)

Out of print:
When parking nearby to crag, please dont park sideways to road park straight in facing resivoir, you can fit so many more cars in at once!
Jamdahll - 27/Aug/14
One of the smaller outcrops in the area but contains several good climbs with a nice mix of thuggy, technical, powerfull, and plain nails routes. Recent tree clearance work has not only helped dry the crag but also makes this a very picturesque place to climb as most top outs now look across the valley. My only complaint is that the crag is becoming very popular and as a result is becoming damaged. Please read and be familiar with the sandstone code displayed on signs and in guidebooks as for many of us regulars this is all we have apart from pulling on plastic indoors. Also if you drive to the crag, please be considerate when using the layby to park, leave enough room for everyone and DO NOT park infront of the house or stick out too far into the road as this is the only access to the resevior and must be kept clear for emergency services should they need. If not, it wont be long until we lose this layby and have to park all the way down the hill.
clem - 22/May/11
Massive wear on the faces from the past few months weather has lead to some of the route becoming v tricky. Some should be upgraded. Lots of moss has grown due to the poor summer weather making many of the route green and slimey. Still a lovely place but I wont be going back until late 08/early 09 when it should be in better condition
Faceonthewall - 08/Sep/08
Stone farm is a brilliant place for a first time outdoors as i experienced last sunday. great crag:)
matt_climber - 27/Jun/08
The nearest little road to this crag is Admiral's Bridge Road, off West Hoathly Road.
rock waif - 05/Apr/07
its an amazing place, lovely scenery and never busy at all i luvit
david_owen - 06/Oct/05
Nice place to climb, but beware of thieves operating in the small car park. Do not leave anything valuable visable in your car.
frostyone - 07/Jun/05
due to erosion stone farm climb should be upgraded.but what a beautiful place it is.
brixton climber - 08/Mar/05
Although Nick obviously thinks it\'s terrible, i have to strongly disagree!, Yes te starts are difficult and yes some of the holds are eroded, but the aren\'t foot long smears on EVERY climb just on the climbs near Cat wall wich he probably couldn\'t do anyway! there 6B\'s around there! i think a good climb is to go up the Stone Farm chimney(4A), then swing out to the right and finish on Cat Wall(5C-6B), he\'s catorgorized a few of the climbs into ALL of the climbs,In my opinion Stone Farm is a very desirable location and area!
Oli - 15/May/02
A lovely setting, really peaceful, overlooking a reservoir and the bluebell railway line, complete with tooting steamtrains every half an hour. But the quality of the rock is poor. Massive amounts of erosion on the footholds at the base of just about every route. In a lot of places there were 2 foot long scoops worn into the rock where once there must have been toe holds, and super slopery handholds where once half-decent pockets must have been. To be honest I almost felt guilty climbing there, the rock seemed so fragile. A few good beginners routes, and at the other end of the grading scale there looked to be some excellent looking stick hard font-style slopery boulder problems, ( I wouldn\'t know though, as I couldn\'t get off the ground on the harder stuff!) but in the mid grades (which is what I was looking for -- around the 5a / 5b mark), most routes were incredibly eroded and looked like they had seen much better days, making them harder but not necessarily more rewarding -- it was like climbing the ghosts of routes, not the routes themselves.
Nick Parker - 13/May/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Moss Wall
2 Moss Wall - Left Block - Left f3+ 13
3 Moss Wall - Left Block - Centre f3 50
4 Moss Wall - Left Block - Right f4 12
5 Moss Wall - Centre Block f3 16
6 Moss Wall - Right Block - Left f4 4
7 Moss Wall - Right Block - Centre f3 11
  Kneeling Boulder
9 Pyramid Route f3+ 77
10 Kneeling Boulder f5+ * 58
11 Pharoah's Curse f5 37
12 Giza the Geezer f6A ** 17
13 Bisquee f5 * 5
14 Kheops Progress f5 * 12
15 One Hold Route f3 76
16 Obscene Gesture f3 68
  Cat Wall Area
18 Medway Slab f3 * 91
19 Grave Digger f6A+  
20 Footie f5+ ** 57
21 More Footie Fun f6B+ *  
22 Stone Farm Chimney 4a 4a * 117
23 Chalk 'n' Cheese 7a 6a * 9
24 Kathmandu 7a+ 6b ** 8
25 Top Cat 6c+ 6a * 5
26 Cat Wall 6b+ 5c ** 118
27 FooFoo 7a 6a * 1
28 Sweet Carol 6c 6a * 24
29 Stone Farm Crack 4b 4b ** 286
30 Pine Buttress 6b 5c * 115
31 Pine Buttress Direct 6b+ 5c ** 2
32 Biometric Slab 7a 6b * 7
33 Pine Crack 4c 4c * 203
34 The Ramp 3c 3c 59
35 The Face 4b 4b 83
36 The Face - Right Finish
-
none 4b 5
37 Root Chimney 2b 2b 51
  Yew Wall Area
39 A Barely Independent Problem 6a+ 5a 12
40 Slab Buttress 4b 4b * 67
41 Slab Buttress - Centre 4a 4a 3
42 Slab Left f2+ 7
43 Slab Direct f3 * 118
44 Slab Arete - Eliminate
-
none 5a 6
45 Slab Arete f2+ * 99
46 Yew Just Crimp 6c 6a ** 8
47 Yew Arete 6b 5b 25
48 Yew Wall 7a 6b **  
49 Yew Left Me
-
f2 3a 3
  Stone Farm Central
51 Garden Wall Crack 3b 3b * 76
52 Remote 4c 4c * 115
53 Control 6c 5c ** 51
54 Control Freak 6c+ 6a *  
55 Control Variation none 6a 2
56 Holly Leaf Crack 2a 2a * 40
57 Garden Wall Traverse f2+ 15
58 Sahara f6B 3
59 Arabian f6A 3
60 Gobi f6A+ 3
61 Very Very Fat 6b 5b 3
62 Thin 6b+ 5c ** 66
63 Thin - Wall to Left
-
none 5b 2
64 Snuffler’s Slab 7b+  
65 Chipperydoodah 7a 6a ** 41
66 Chipperydoodah - Direct Finish 7a+ 6b 2
67 Curling Crack 4a 4a ** 302
68 Illusion 7a 6a ** 38
69 Disillusion 6c 5c * 25
70 Inside Out 3a 3a 87
Climb name Grade
71 Gus the Dog 6b+ 5c 3
72 Front Face 6a+ 5b ** 145
73 Excalibur 7a 6a *  
74 Mania 6c 6a * 21
75 Undercut Wall 4b 4b ** 210
76 Undercut Wall Arete 4a 4a 26
77 A Cheeky Little Number 6a 5b 23
78 Pinnacle Buttress Arete 6b 5b ** 80
79 Barn Door Experience 6c 6a * 2
80 Pinnacle Buttress Arete Right Hand none 6a 16
81 Pinnacle Buttress Direct 6a+ 5b ** 152
82 Praying Mantles 6a+ 5b * 39
83 Pinnacle Buttress Original Route 4b 4b * 42
84 Pinnacle's Progress f5 1
85 Easy Crack 2a 2a 74
86 Bare Necessities 6c 5c ** 56
87 Bare Essentials 6b+ 5c ** 50
88 Bare Essentials - Direct Finish 7a 6a * 6
89 Belly Up 7a 6a * 5
90 Pinnacle Chimney 3a 3a 42
  Key Wall
92 Key Wall 6a+ 5a *** 151
93 Key Wall Right Hand
-
none 5a 21
94 Belle Vue Terrace 6c 6a *** 58
95 Belle Vue Terrace - Direct Start
-
none 6b 2
96 Belle Vue Terrace Direct 7a+ 6b 1
97 Quoi Faire 7c 6c ** 3
98 L'ottimista 7b+ 6b **  
99 Key Wall Lower Traverse f5 * 11
100 Key Wall Upper Traverse f6A+ * 1
101 Extended Girdle Traverse
-
none 6a 1
102 Nose Direct 6c 5c 8
103 East Jordan Route 4a 4a 36
104 East Jordan Route - No Bridging
-
none 4a 8
105 Leisure Line 6b+ 5c 1
106 Central Jordan 2a 2a 51
107 West Jordan none 3a 1
108 Absent Friends f6B  
109 Arthur's Little Problem f6B+  
110 King Arthur f6B  
  Stone Farm Boulders
112 Milestone Arete f3 * 32
113 Milestone Stride f3+ ** 25
114 Milestone Right f4  
115 Milestone Mantel f6B+ 6
116 Milestone Mantleshelf - Sit Start f7B+ 6c 1
117 The Painkiller f7B+ **  
118 Concentration Cut f6A+ * 10
119 Magic Numbers f3 3
120 Jump Start f2+ 2
121 Pleasure Dome f2+ 3
122 Nobbly knee f4+ 5
123 Backhander f5+ 6
124 Hairy Scary f4+ * 3
125 Grooving Away f5 ** 13
126 Font Blue f5 * 5
127 Step Up f3+ 19
128 Bin the trainers f4 * 15
129 Christ Will Return Slab f3+ 5
130 Baby's Slab f2 4
131 Baby's Nose f2 3
132 Baby's Wall f2 3
133 Thomas the Tank f3 11
134 Tiny Wall f3 20
135 Open Chimney f3 * 107
136 Transparent Accelerating Banana f5+ 47
137 Bulging Corner f4+ ** 171
138 Bulging Corner - RIght Hand Boulder Problem
-
none 5b 17
139 Poohped f6A 12
140 Euro Rail f6B * 10
Climb name Grade
141 Bulging Wall f6A * 96
142 Ashdown Wall f4+ *** 186
143 Gap Traverse f3 * 33
144 Gap Traverse - Central Line
-
none 3a 17
145 Prelude f3 45
146 Epitaph f2+ 29
147 Introductory Slab f2+ 24
148 Introductory Climb f2+ ** 153
149 Introductory Climb - Right Hand
-
none 4a 16
150 Dinosaurs Don't Dyno f2 * 147
151 Introductory Climb - Low-Level Traverse
-
none 6a 3
152 Marmelade f2+ 27
153 Tiger the Tiger f3 26
154 Zog the Dog f2+ 33
155 Traverse and Crack
-
none 2a 50
156 Traverse and Crack - Left to Right Diagonal
-
none 1b 9
157 Traverse and Crack - Rounded Arete
-
none 5c 5
158 Traverse and Crack - The Overlap Slanting Up From Right To Left
-
none 5a 7
159 Traverse and Crack - Wall Right of
-
none 5b 4
160 Traverse and Crack - Pocketed Depression
-
none 1b 10
161 Traverse and Crack - Right Arete
-
none 2a 11
  Inaccessible Boulder
163 Guy's Route 7c 6c ** 4
164 Hungry Heart 6c 6a 1
165 Leaning Crack 6a+ 5b ** 146
166 Leaning Crack Right-hand 5c 5a ** 10
167 Ducking Fesperate 6c 6a * 52
168 SW Corner Scoop 6a+ 5a *** 92
169 SW Corner 6b 5b 14
170 Wind Me Up f6A 10
171 Primitive Groove 4b 4b * 117
172 Mad as a Hatter 6b+ 5c 3
173 SE Corner Crack - Mantelshelf
-
none 5c 13
174 Boulder Wall 6c+ 6a 9
175 Time Warp 6b 5b * 7
176 SE Corner Crack 4b 4b ** 113
177 Sticky Fingers f5+ 14
178 The Lost Boys f6B ** 1
179 Peter Pan f6B 25
180 Stinging Nettle Variation f7A *** 23
181 Stinging Nettle f7A+ *** 31
182 Southern Chimes f4+  
183 Balham Boot Boys 7a 6b 5
184 Southern Chimes Traverse f6B 5
185 NE Corner 5c 5a 27
186 Diagonal Route 6a+ 5b ** 19
187 Simpering Savage 6a+ 5b 10
188 Green Wall 6a 5a 17
189 Green Wall - Direct Finish 6a+ 5a 3
190 Green Wall - Right Hand Finish
-
none 4c 1
191 Birdie Num-Nums 7c 6c 4
192 Birdie Num-Nums - Step Off Large Boulder to Start
-
none 5c  
193 Low-Level Girdle
-
none 6b 1
  Southern Sandstone Bouldering Guide (Problems)
195 91 SSB (Stone Farm) f5 2
196 92 SSB (Stone Farm) f4+ 3
197 93 SSB (Stone Farm) f5 2
198 94 SSB (Stone Farm) f5+ 2
199 95 SSB (Stone Farm) f5+ 2
200 88 SSB (Stone Farm) f2 2
201 89 SSB (Stone Farm) f3 3
202 90 SSB (Stone Farm) f2 2
203 104 SSB (Stone Farm) f4 2
204 107 SSB (Stone Farm) f6B 1
205 108 SSB (Stone Farm) f6B 2
206 102 SSB (Stone Farm) f6B+ 1
  Personal Variations
208 PV - Peter Pan and the Lost Boys f6C **  
209 PV - Peter Pan Vs Captain Hook f6A+ *  
210 PV - Tinker Bell f6A+ *  

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