Climbs 169
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 110m a.s.l
Faces S

Self portrait - Inaccessible Boulder © Richard Enticknap

Crag features

Now owned by the BMC. Typical height 6m. Good aspect, often dry, but sadly chipped in places. A very good bouldering venue.It is also a very ejoyable place to climb because it is never very crowded, It is hidden away with a nice scenery in the background. I advise you try climbing here! [Oli 5/02 - but note Nick Parker's comments below, same vintage]

Approach notes

No leading. Soloing or toproping only. Take a second rope to extend top belays.
From East Grinstead, take the B2110 twd Chiddinglye Wood). Turn L after about 1.6km (1mi) twds Saint Hill and on to Stone Farm. Park cars about 100m down the road from the Farm, the path is opposite the house down W hoarthly rd. The rocks are 100m down the path go left at the southern sandstone sign.

When parking nearby to crag, please dont park sideways to road park straight in facing resivoir, you can fit so many more cars in at once!
Jamdahll - 27/Aug/14
One of the smaller outcrops in the area but contains several good climbs with a nice mix of thuggy, technical, powerfull, and plain nails routes. Recent tree clearance work has not only helped dry the crag but also makes this a very picturesque place to climb as most top outs now look across the valley. My only complaint is that the crag is becoming very popular and as a result is becoming damaged. Please read and be familiar with the sandstone code displayed on signs and in guidebooks as for many of us regulars this is all we have apart from pulling on plastic indoors. Also if you drive to the crag, please be considerate when using the layby to park, leave enough room for everyone and DO NOT park infront of the house or stick out too far into the road as this is the only access to the resevior and must be kept clear for emergency services should they need. If not, it wont be long until we lose this layby and have to park all the way down the hill.
clem - 22/May/11
Massive wear on the faces from the past few months weather has lead to some of the route becoming v tricky. Some should be upgraded. Lots of moss has grown due to the poor summer weather making many of the route green and slimey. Still a lovely place but I wont be going back until late 08/early 09 when it should be in better condition
Faceonthewall - 08/Sep/08
Stone farm is a brilliant place for a first time outdoors as i experienced last sunday. great crag:)
matt_climber - 27/Jun/08
The nearest little road to this crag is Admiral's Bridge Road, off West Hoathly Road.
rock waif - 05/Apr/07
its an amazing place, lovely scenery and never busy at all i luvit
david_owen - 06/Oct/05
Nice place to climb, but beware of thieves operating in the small car park. Do not leave anything valuable visable in your car.
frostyone - 07/Jun/05
due to erosion stone farm climb should be upgraded.but what a beautiful place it is.
brixton climber - 08/Mar/05
Although Nick obviously thinks it\'s terrible, i have to strongly disagree!, Yes te starts are difficult and yes some of the holds are eroded, but the aren\'t foot long smears on EVERY climb just on the climbs near Cat wall wich he probably couldn\'t do anyway! there 6B\'s around there! i think a good climb is to go up the Stone Farm chimney(4A), then swing out to the right and finish on Cat Wall(5C-6B), he\'s catorgorized a few of the climbs into ALL of the climbs,In my opinion Stone Farm is a very desirable location and area!
Oli - 15/May/02
A lovely setting, really peaceful, overlooking a reservoir and the bluebell railway line, complete with tooting steamtrains every half an hour. But the quality of the rock is poor. Massive amounts of erosion on the footholds at the base of just about every route. In a lot of places there were 2 foot long scoops worn into the rock where once there must have been toe holds, and super slopery handholds where once half-decent pockets must have been. To be honest I almost felt guilty climbing there, the rock seemed so fragile. A few good beginners routes, and at the other end of the grading scale there looked to be some excellent looking stick hard font-style slopery boulder problems, ( I wouldn\'t know though, as I couldn\'t get off the ground on the harder stuff!) but in the mid grades (which is what I was looking for -- around the 5a / 5b mark), most routes were incredibly eroded and looked like they had seen much better days, making them harder but not necessarily more rewarding -- it was like climbing the ghosts of routes, not the routes themselves.
Nick Parker - 13/May/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Moss Wall Area
2 Moss Wall - Left Block - Left
-
none 4b 9
3 Moss Wall - Left Block - Centre
-
none 3b 48
4 Moss Wall - Left Block - Right
-
none 4c 10
5 Moss Wall - Centre Block
-
none 2b 12
6 Moss Wall - Right Block - Left
-
f4 2
7 Moss Wall - Right Block - Centre
-
none 2b 9
  Kneeling Boulder
9 Pyramid Route
-
none 4b 70
10 Kneeling Boulder
-
none 4b 54
11 Pharoah's Curse
-
none 5a 32
12 Giza the Geezer (Kneeling Boulder - Direct Start)
-
none 5c 9
13 Bisquee
-
f5 *  
14 Kheops Progress
-
none 5b 9
15 One Hold Route
-
none 3b 68
16 Obscence Gesture
-
none 3a 56
  Cat Wall Area
18 Medway Slab
-
none 1b * 83
19 Grave Digger
-
f6A+  
20 Footie
-
none 5c 51
21 More Footie Fun
-
f6B+  
22 Stone Farm Chimney
-
none 4a * 106
23 Chalk 'n' Cheese
-
none 6a 8
24 Kathmandu
-
none 6b * 8
25 Top Cat none 6a 3
26 Cat Wall
-
none 5c * 111
27 Sweet Carol
-
none 5c 22
28 Stone Farm Crack
-
none 4b ** 266
29 Pine Buttress
-
none 5c * 109
30 Biometric Slab none 6b 7
31 Pine Crack
-
none 3b * 183
32 The Ramp
-
none 2a 51
33 The Face
-
none 4a 75
34 The Face - Right Finish
-
none 4b 3
35 Root Chimney
-
none 1a 45
  Slab Buttress
37 A Barely Independent Problem
-
none 5a 12
38 Slab Buttress
-
none 4b 61
39 Slab Buttress - Centre
-
none 4a  
  Diamond Slab
41 Slab Left
-
f3 3
42 Slab Direct
-
none 4a * 111
43 Slab Arete - Eliminate
-
none 5a 5
44 Slab Arete
-
none 2a * 95
  Yew Wall
46 Yew Just Crimp none 6a 6
47 Yew Arete
-
none 5b 24
48 Yew Wall
-
none 6b  
  Garden Wall
50 Garden Wall Crack
-
none 3a * 72
51 Remote
-
none 4c * 111
52 Control
-
none 5c 47
53 Control Variation none 6a 2
54 Holly Leaf Crack
-
none 1b 39
55 Garden Wall Traverse none 3a 15
56 Sahara
-
none 5b 1
57 Arabian
-
none 6a 2
58 Gobi
-
none 5a 2
  Curling Crack Area
60 Thin
-
none 5c * 60
61 Thin - Wall to Left
-
none 5b 2
62 Chipperydoodah none 6a 39
63 Chipperydoodah - Direct Finish
-
none 6b 2
64 Curling Crack none 4a ** 269
65 Illusion
-
none 6a * 35
66 Disillusion
-
none 5c 22
67 Inside or Out?
-
none 2b 79
  Undercut Wall Area
69 Gus the Dog none 5c 3
70 Front Face
-
none 5b * 124
71 Excalibur none 6a  
72 Mania none 6a 17
73 Undercut Wall
-
none 4a ** 193
74 Undercut Wall - Right Arete
-
none 4a 18
  Pinnacle Buttress Area
76 A Cheeky Little Number none 5b 17
77 Pinnacle Buttress Arete none 5b * 76
78 Pinnacle Buttress Arete Right Hand none 6a 18
79 Pinnacle Buttress
-
none 5b ** 141
80 Pinnacle Buttress Original Route
-
none 4a 34
81 Praying Mantles
-
none 5b 32
82 Easy Crack
-
none 2a * 69
83 Bare Necessities
-
none 6a 49
84 Bare Essentials
-
none 5c 44
85 Bare Essentials - Direct Finish
-
none 6a 3
86 Belly Up none 6a 5
87 Pinnacle Chimney
-
none 2a 36
88 Central Jordan
-
none 2a 44
89 West Jordan none 3a  
  Stone Farm Pinnacle Area
91 Key Wall none 5a * 133
92 Key Wall Right Hand
-
none 5a 16
93 Belle Vue Terrace none 6a ** 52
94 Belle Vue Terrace - Direct Start
-
none 6b 2
95 Quoi Faire
-
none 6c 3
96 Girdle Traverse
-
none 5c * 7
97 Extended Girdle Traverse
-
none 6a  
98 Nose Direct
-
none 5c 8
99 East Jordan Route
-
none 2b 32
100 East Jordan Route - No Bridging
-
none 4a 7
101 Leisure Line
-
none 5c 1
102 Absent Friends
-
none 6a  
103 Arthur's Little Problem
-
none 6b  
104 Milestone Arete
-
none 4a 29
105 Milestone Stride
-
none 4b 23
106 Milestone Mantleshelf V4 6a+ 6
107 Milestone Mantleshelf - Sit Start f7B+ 6c 1
108 Concentration Cut
-
none 6a 9
109 Traverse and Crack
-
none 2a 48
110 Traverse and Crack - Left Side Left-Hand Face
-
none 5b 4
111 Traverse and Crack - Left to Right Diagonal
-
none 1b 8
112 Traverse and Crack - Rounded Arete
-
none 5c 4
113 Traverse and Crack - The Overlap Slanting Up From Right To Left
-
none 5a 6
114 Traverse and Crack - Wall Right of
-
none 5b 3
115 Traverse and Crack - Pocketed Depression
-
none 1b 9
116 Traverse and Crack - Right Arete
-
none 2a 10
117 Open Chimney
-
none 3a 96
118 Open Chimney - Crack to Left
-
none 2b 9
  Bulging Wall Area
120 Bulging Corner
-
none 3b ** 152
121 Transparent Accelerating Banana
-
none 5b 42
122 Bulging Corner - RIght Hand Boulder Problem
-
none 5b 13
123 Bulging Wall
-
none 5b 83
124 Ashdown Wall
-
none 4b * 161
  Introductory Climb Area
126 Introductory Climb
-
none 2a * 136
127 Introductory Climb - Direct Start
-
none 2b 16
128 Introductory Climb - Direct Finish
-
none 3a 16
129 Introductory Climb - Right Hand
-
none 4a 15
130 Introductory Climb - Start Below Finishing Crack
-
none 3b 18
131 Introductory Climb - Low-Level Traverse
-
none 6a 2
132 Dinosaurs Don't Dyno
-
none 1a * 124
  Inaccessible Boulder Area
134 Gap Traverse
-
none 4a * 30
135 Gap Traverse - Central Line
-
none 3a 15
136 Guy's Route
-
none 6c * 3
137 Guy's Route - Left From Niche of Leaning Crack
-
none 6a  
138 Leaning Crack
-
none 5a ** 119
139 Leaning Crack - Direct Start
-
none 5b 13
140 Ducking Fesperate
-
none 5c * 43
141 SW Corner Scoop
-
none 5a ** 76
142 SW Corner Eliminate
-
none 5b 6
143 Primitive Groove
-
none 4b * 104
144 Boulder Wall
-
none 6a 7
145 Boulder Wall - Overhang Right Hand
-
none 5b 4
146 SE Corner Crack
-
none 4b * 98
147 SE Corner Crack - Left Side of Undercut Nose
-
none 5c 3
148 SE Corner Crack - Right Side of Undercut Nose
-
none 5b 2
149 SE Corner Crack - Mantelshelf
-
none 5c 11
150 Stinging Nettle f7A+ 26
151 Balham Boot Boys
-
none 6b 4
152 NE Corner
-
none 5a 25
153 Diagonal Route
-
none 5b ** 18
154 Simpering Savage
-
none 5b 10
155 Green Wall
-
none 4c *** 17
156 Green Wall - Direct Finish
-
none 5a 2
157 Green Wall - Right Hand Finish
-
none 4c 1
158 Birdie Num-Nums
-
none 6c ** 4
159 Birdie Num-Nums - Step Off Large Boulder to Start
-
none 5c  
160 Low-Level Girdle
-
none 6b 1
161 Prelude
-
none 2c 10
  Unknown Position
163 Yew Left Me
-
f2 3a 3
164 Unknown f7A 4
165 Choo Choo Mama
-
none 8
166 Zog the Dog
-
none 2a 12
167 Marmelade
-
none 3a 9
168 Peter Pan
-
f6B+ 7
169 Sticky Fingers
-
f6A 2
170 Traverse f6B * 4
171 Thomas the Tank
-
f2+ 3b 4
172 Step Up
-
f2 2a 8
173 Bin the trainers
-
f2 2b 6
174 Obscene Gesture f2+ 3b 4
175 Grooving Away f3 3b 4
176 Stinging Nettle Variation f7A+ 6c ** 11
177 Problem 101 f6B 2
178 Problem 102 f6B+ 1
179 Tiger the Tiger
-
f3 3a * 7
180 Nobbly knee *
-
5a 2
 
182 Peter Pan and the Lost Boys * f6C **  
183 Peter Pan Vs Captain Hook * f6A+ *  
184 The Lost Boys * f6B **  
185 Tinker Bell * f6A+ *  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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