UKC

Climbs 142
Rocktype Mica schist
Altitude 800m a.s.l
Faces S

Dalriada _ 08 © Fraser

Crag features

The dramatic triple peaks of The Cobbler offer some excellent climbing through most of the grade spectrum in both summer and winter.

The South Peak has two different facets. The open and sunny South Face offers bold climbing on good slabby rock. By comparison the North Face is gloomy and dark, providing some classic winter routes.

The Centre Peak, although rather sprawling, includes an impressive rocky pinnacle which forms the mountain's summit, and the lower buttress gives some good winter climbing, including The Cathedral (X 11).

The North Peak's upper tier presents two massive overhanging noses of compact rock which are the most impressive rock features in the Southern Highlands. Tracking through steep ground are a choice of classic routes of all grades from Severe to E7. At least 10 routes merit a 3-star rating, including Whither Whether, which is the best-positioned VS pitch in Scotland, and the sensational steep prow of Dalriada.

Approach notes

Two approach options. The fast but less scenic option follows a faint boggy path from Glen Croe up the back of the mountain. Alternatively, from the pay-and-display car-park at Succoth take the main Cobbler path as far as the dam. Either cross the river above this and follow the ridge above to the peak, or continue up the path until a left branch that leads into the corrie between the peaks.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 The Cobbler Traverse
-
III *** 92
  South Peak - South Face
3 Porcupine Wall S  
4 Dicers Groove E2 5b *  
5 Ethereal
-
E6 6b **  
6 Sleeping Gas
-
E6 6b *  
7 Glueless Groove E2 5b * 3
8 Ithuriel's Wall E2 5b ** 7
9 Gladiator's Groove Direct E1 5b ** 39
10 Geb E4 6a **  
11 Ra E4 6a ** 2
12 Osiris E4 6a *** 7
13 Horus E6 6b **  
14 Ardgartan Arete VS 4b ** 73
15 Ardgartan Wall VD 3c * 14
16 Pygmy Wall III 5 ** 2
17 South-East Ridge M 72
18 South-East Ridge II/III * 76
  South Peak - North Face
20 Jughandle
-
IV 5 ** 9
21 Lovehandle
-
IV 5 1
22 Bow Crack
-
HS 4b ** 5
23 S Crack VS 4c ** 14
24 S Crack VI 7 *** 3
25 Aeon
-
S  
26 Aeonoclast
-
VI 6 **  
27 Sesame Groove Direct
-
IV 6 8
28 Grassy Traverse
-
III *  
29 Southern Freeze
-
E2 5b  
30 Southern Freeze
-
IX 9  
31 Ruskoline E5 6a *  
32 Davie Taenails E1 5b 3
33 Punters Crack VIII 9 *** 2
34 Deadman's Groove
-
VS 4c * 1
35 Deadman's Groove
-
VI 7 *** 8
36 Grossen Zinnen
-
S  
37 McLean's Folly
-
E1 5b *  
38 North Wall Groove S  
39 North Wall Groove
-
V 6 *** 48
40 North Wall Traverse
-
IV 5 ** 15
41 Viva Glasvegas
-
VIII 7 *  
42 Gibber Crack
-
VS 5a  
43 Gibber Crack V 7 * 2
44 Slack's Route
-
HS 4b *  
45 Nimlin's Direct Route
-
VD ** 18
46 Nimlin's Direct Route IV 5 * 1
47 Bell's Route
-
D  
48 Bell's Route (Sloping Ledge Variation)
-
VD  
49 Bell's Route (Rutherford's Variation)
-
VD  
50 Naismith's Route
-
D 1
51 Original Route
-
M 15
52 North-West Crack
-
VS 4c  
Climb name Grade
53 Cupid's Groove
-
VS 4c  
  Centre Peak - Summit
55 The Arete D * 65
56 The Arete III * 10
57 MacGregor's Ledge
-
VD 2
58 Doorway Route M 86
59 Doorway Route
-
II 22
  Centre Peak Buttress
61 Chimney Route
-
V 7 ** 7
62 Lobby Dosser
-
HVS  
63 Cave Route
-
III 4 * 31
64 Drugs are for Mugs
-
V 6  
65 The Cathedral X 11 ** 2
66 Centre Gully II 33
  North Peak - Upper Tier
68 Overhanging Recess S 1
69 Spainkiller E1 5b 4
70 Chimney Arete
-
VS 4b * 24
71 Right-Angled Chimney
-
D * 38
72 Right-Angled Chimney
-
IV 5 * 12
73 Cat Crawl
-
VS 4c ** 21
74 Direct Direct
-
HVS 5b ** 38
75 Direct Direct
-
VII 8 * 4
76 Wild at Heart E7 6b *** 1
77 Wild Country E6 6b ***  
78 Wide Country E5 6b ***  
79 Punster's Crack
-
S *** 421
80 Punster's Crack
-
VII 8  
81 Trans am Wheel Arch Nostrils
-
E4 6a *  
82 Evening Stroll
-
E2 5c * 1
83 Right-Angled Gully
-
VD * 29
84 Right-Angled Gully
-
IV 5 * 8
85 Right-Angled Gully Direct
-
S 22
86 Right-Angled Gully Direct
-
V 6 ** 6
87 Rise to the Occasion
-
E5 6a * 1
88 Rest and be Thankful
-
E5 6a *** 4
89 Club Crack
-
E2 5c ** 44
90 Right-Angled Groove
-
VS 4c * 17
91 Right-Angled Groove
-
V 7 * 5
92 Dalriada E7 6b *** 10
93 Whither Whether
-
VS 4b *** 184
94 Grey Wall
-
HS 4a ** 6
  North Peak - Lower Tier
96 Ramshead Wall
-
D 3
97 Ramshead Wall
-
III  
98 Ramshead Ridge
-
D 11
99 Ramshead Ridge
-
IV 5 ** 7
100 Moonlight Arete
-
E2 5c 1
101 Whether Wall
-
VS 4c ** 137
102 Ramshead Gully
-
VD ** 6
103 Ramshead Gully
-
IV 5 ** 2
104 Echo Crack
-
HS 4b 3
Climb name Grade
105 Echo Crack
-
VI 7 2
106 Incubator
-
HS 4b * 38
107 Incubator
-
VI 7 * 2
108 Recess Route
-
S *** 279
109 Recess Route V 6 *** 31
110 Northern Heatwave
-
HVS 4c *  
111 Fold Direct
-
VS 4c * 7
112 Fold Direct
-
V 7 * 4
113 Piper's Lament
-
E3 5b 1
114 N'Gombi VS 3
115 N'Gombi
-
VI 8 *  
116 Gangway
-
VS 1
117 McSod's Way
-
IV 5 * 4
118 Maclay's Crack
-
III 4 ** 71
119 Megabyte
-
VI 6 **  
120 Great Gully Wall
-
S  
121 Moss Crack
-
VD  
122 Great Gully
-
II ** 141
  Great Gully Buttress
124 Gimcrack
-
VS 4c 1
125 The Mog
-
VS 4c 1
126 Spinal Rib
-
VS 4b ** 9
127 Gimcanna
-
V 7 * 2
128 North Rib Route HVD * 28
129 North Rib Route
-
V 7 ** 10
130 Great Gully Groove
-
IV 6 * 7
131 Lulu
-
IV 6 * 3
132 Heart Buttress
-
III * 8
133 Soul Groove
-
III 4
  Chockstone Buttress
135 Chockstone Groove II 2
136 Chockstone Gully
-
II 108
137 A Crack in the Clouds E3 6a *** 1
  North Buttress
139 North Winds
-
E3 6a *  
140 North Gully
-
I 6
  The Sugar Walls
142 Gearless
-
S * 1
143 Straight Flush E2 5b ** 2
144 100 Foot Wall
-
D 1
145 Lumpy Custard
-
E1 5b ** 2
146 Comical Corner (Winter) V 6 * 1
147 Comical Corner
-
S * 5
148 No Pro Wall S 1
149 Some Pro Edge VD 1
  Esoterica
151 The Lost Pinnacle
-
VS 4b * 1
  Climbs to be sorted
153 Telapathy Crack
-
S 1
154 Cobbler Cave VD * 2

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