Climbs 173
Rocktype Dolerite

Faces S

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Pete Robins attempting Psyche and Burn (E6) Tremadog © Jack Geldard - Assistant Editor

Crag features

The crag that is always warm and often dry when clouds hang over the Llanberis Pass a few miles away. Many routes in the low Extreme grades, including the classic Silly Arete (E3 5c) as well as plenty for the VS leader to go at. Very little below VS, but the other Tremadog crags have plenty of those.

Approach notes

Often hard to identify routes from the road due to trees. Walk off the top rather than abseiling, to save the trees.

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Tremadog (2010)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Tremadog and Cwm Silyn (1989) (1989)
don't try to walk off to the right looking up. chest high brambles and no path. no path to the left from falcon/vulcan area so abseil is the only viable option for descent.
rurp - 16/Oct/12
DO NOT abseil off if possible/practical. It's lazy, antisocial and erodes the trees.
victim of mathematics - 03/Sep/12
abseil off if possible to prevent erosion of the paths
cankerblossom - 02/Sep/12
I don't believe this is Dolerite. More likely to be Micro-gabbro with Mica schist at the base. Dolerite is a term over used in outdated surveys.
Ian Jones - 23/Nov/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Craig y Tarw
2 Forest View's Shattered Cracks
-
S 1
  Pant Ifan Upper Tier
4 K.M.A. HS 4a * 589
5 Madog VS 4c ** 885
6 Myomancy HVS 5b ** 379
7 Falling Block Crack S 4a * 1162
8 Mistook VS 4c * 596
9 Gwynedd VS 4b * 501
10 Rammer's Route VS 5a * 526
11 Marath
-
HVD 144
12 MTN S 4a * 1071
13 Central Arete S 232
14 Central Staircase VD 457
15 Bulging Wall HS 4a * 749
16 Quatre Fois Direct VS 4c ** 927
17 Meirionydd E1 6a ** 343
18 Tu'Shae HVS 5a 40
19 Unnamed Severe In Guidebook S 12
20 Girdle Traverse Of The Upper Tier
-
VD 4
21 Goop E4 6b 4
  Badger's Buttress
23 Badger's Buttress
-
VD 3
  Two Face Buttress
25 Next of Kin / Drug Test
-
HVS 5b 2
26 Ringwraith
-
E3 6a 2
27 Helsinki Wall
-
E1 5b * 196
28 Olympic Slab VS 4c ** 215
29 Blade Runner E4 6a * 26
30 The Olympiad
-
E2 5c 10
31 Orodruin
-
E2 6a ** 10
32 Surreal
-
E6 6b ** 2
33 The Unreal Finish
-
E6 6b ***  
34 Surreal McCoy
-
E6 6b **  
35 Plastic Nerve E2 5c ** 86
36 Stromboli HVS 5a ** 345
37 The Creature Variation
-
E1 5b 2
38 Hitler's Buttock E5 6b ** 10
39 Sexual Salami E5 6b *** 31
40 Cardiac Arete E4 6a *** 70
41 The Agony and the Ecstacy
-
E5 6b * 2
42 Olympic Wall (Direct Finish) * HVS 5b 1
  Fear Buttress
44 Rhywbeth Bach
-
VS 4b 3
45 Mab y Bwthyn
-
E1 5b 2
46 Saffron Sunset
-
HVS 5b 2
47 Fear
-
E3 6a 2
48 Mab y Mynydd
-
E2 5c 2
  Eifionydd Buttress
50 Tam Lin
-
E2 5c 2
51 Fine and Mellow E1 5b *  
52 Electric Edge
-
E2 5c * 6
53 Mons Meg
-
HVS 5a 1
54 Huntley
-
VS 4c 2
55 Millipede
-
HVS 4c  
56 Eifionydd Wall
-
HVS 5b 9
57 Strempan
-
E2 5b 1
  Pen Y Ci Buttress
59 R.I.P.
-
VS 4c 1
60 Curved Air
-
E4 5c * 5
61 Pengo's Eliminate
-
E4 5c 3
62 Cerberus
-
E1 5b 1
Climb name Grade
63 Rock 'n' Roll
-
HS  
64 Basin Street
-
E3 6a 1
65 Oak Tree Wall
-
VS 4
  Scratch Area
67 Tea Time Arete
-
VS 5a 18
68 Ave Atque Vale S 18
69 Krakatoa
-
S 13
70 Gwrywgydiwr
-
E1 5c 3
71 Terraqua
-
E2 6a 10
72 Strumpet Blower
-
E1 5c 1
73 Etna
-
S 14
74 Pear Tree Variation
-
VS 4c 35
75 Silver Crow
-
E1 5b 9
76 The Struggler
-
E2 5c * 15
77 Borchgrevinck S * 64
78 Borchgrevinck / Poor Man's Peuterey S ** 231
79 Groove of Horror
-
E5 6a ** 9
80 Strapiombo HVS 5b *** 101
81 Erebus
-
E3 5c ** 21
82 No Holds Barred
-
E6 6c ** 1
83 Tall Dwarfs
-
E3 6a * 10
84 Poor Man's Peuterey S 4a *** 1885
85 Great Western
-
VS 4c * 290
86 Monkey Puzzle
-
E1 5b 108
87 Monkey Puzzle/Pincushion E1 5b ** 39
88 The Quakermen
-
E2 5c 53
89 Harvey Proctor's Spanking Slap
-
E2 5c 107
90 Pincushion E2 6a ** 332
91 Silly Billy
-
E2 5c 13
92 Silly Arete E3 5c *** 376
93 Fingerlicker E4 6a *** 138
94 Fingerlicker Direct Finish
-
E6 6b **  
95 Barbarian E1 5b *** 715
96 Scratch VS 4c ** 1157
97 Mangoletsi
-
E3 6a ** 72
98 Mangoletsi Direct Start
-
E2 5c 24
99 Mangoletsi Superdirect
-
E5 6b ** 2
100 Mangoletsi The Original Way E3 6a * 28
101 Spare Rib E4 6a *** 34
102 Itch
-
E2 6a * 139
103 Rhych dy Din E2 5b ** 74
104 Scratch Arete HVS 5a *** 1562
105 Ivy Crack
-
E1 5b 21
106 Slabby Flues
-
S 2
107 Peripherique (Girdle Traverse of Peuterey Buttress)
-
E1 5b ** 7
108 Laser Crack
-
E1 5b ** 24
109 Blobby Goes Ballistic
-
E1 5b 2
110 Integral
-
E2 5c * 34
111 Integral Direct
-
E3 5c ** 30
112 Limited Edition
-
E5 6b 1
113 The Toit
-
E4 6b 5
114 The Sandbagger
-
E5 6b 1
115 The Dune Child
-
E4 6b 1
  Avalanche Buttress
117 Fandango E1 5b 26
118 Lucretia
-
VS 4
119 Lakeland Gem
-
VS 1
120 Whistling Rufus
-
HVS  
121 Clown of Thorns
-
E1 5b 2
122 Technical Master
-
E2 5c ** 13
123 Wanda VS 4b 4
Climb name Grade
  Strangeways Buttress
125 Rapunzel
-
VS 5a 1
126 Attractive Mature Lady (Will Visit)
-
E2 5b  
127 Bucket Rider E1 5b 15
128 Alcatraz VS 4c ** 123
129 Hey!
-
E1 5b 19
130 Holloway
-
HVS 5a 119
131 Back to Nature
-
E3 6a 1
132 Crocadillo
-
E2 5b * 50
133 Crocadillo Variation
-
E2 5b ** 10
134 Strangeways
-
VS 4c 12
135 Holloway/Crocodillo E2 5b ** 16
136 Agoraphobia
-
HVS 5a  
  Hogmanay Buttress
138 Life in a Day
-
E3 5c  
139 Broadmoor
-
E1 5b  
140 Psyche 'n' Burn E6 6c *** 4
141 Vulcan E4 6a *** 171
142 Falcon E1 5b *** 412
143 Sonic Sinbin
-
E4 6a * 2
144 Pippikin E4 6a *** 31
145 Scarecrow
-
E3 5c * 20
146 Scarecrow Direct Start
-
E4 6a  
147 The Steal
-
E4 6b 1
148 Steelfingers
-
E2 5c 33
149 Raven's Nest Wall
-
E2 5b 13
150 Dead Rooks Don't Speak
-
E3 5b  
151 Rookery Nook
-
HVS 5a  
152 Gothic Grooves
-
E1 5b 15
153 W.O.B.
-
HVS 4c 13
154 Stormy Weather
-
E3 6a  
155 Hogmanay Hangover HS 4b ** 160
156 Hogmanay Hangover Direct Finish
-
HVS 5b 22
157 Omerta Crack
-
E3 6a 1
158 Hogmanay Girdle
-
E3 5c * 1
159 Valerian
-
E1 4
  Boulders
161 Circus V7 ** 2
162 Funfare V3 2
163 Bored Silly f5+ 5b *** 1
164 Jungle Hand Jive f6C 1
165 Full Gas f6A+ * 1
166 Holler For The Dollar f6B+ *** 1
167 Greenback f6C * 1
168 Nickles N Dime's f6A+ 1
169 Le Mans f6A * 1
170 Easy Peeler f2 1
171 Mental Magnet f6A+ 1
172 ArĂȘte Eliminate f6A 1
173 Independence Day f6B * 1
174 Arctic Circle VS 3
175 K.M.A * 4a ** 2
176 Mangoletsi / Itch Combination * E1 5b ** 8
177 Surgeon's Krakau * f6A+ ** 8
178 Smearcats * f6A *** 7
179 M Cat * f6A ** 7
180 W High * f4+ 2
181 Crab to Pineapple * f6A+ ** 4
182 The Cracks * f4 4b 4
183 On the Edge * f4+ 4c ** 1
  Moved climbs from Upper Tier Tremadoc
185 K.M.a * HS 4a * 1
186 Quatre Fois Direct * VS 4c ** 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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