Climbs 163
Rocktype Dolerite

Faces S

Pete Robins attempting Psyche and Burn (E6) Tremadog © Jack Geldard - Assistant Editor

Crag features

The crag that is always warm and often dry when clouds hang over the Llanberis Pass a few miles away. Many routes in the low Extreme grades, including the classic Silly Arete (E3 5c) as well as plenty for the VS leader to go at. Very little below VS, but the other Tremadog crags have plenty of those.

Approach notes

Often hard to identify routes from the road due to trees. Walk off the top rather than abseiling, to save the trees.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Tremadog (2010)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Tremadog and Cwm Silyn (1989) (1989)
don't try to walk off to the right looking up. chest high brambles and no path. no path to the left from falcon/vulcan area so abseil is the only viable option for descent.
rurp - 16/Oct/12
DO NOT abseil off if possible/practical. It's lazy, antisocial and erodes the trees.
victim of mathematics - 03/Sep/12
abseil off if possible to prevent erosion of the paths
cankerblossom - 02/Sep/12
I don't believe this is Dolerite. More likely to be Micro-gabbro with Mica schist at the base. Dolerite is a term over used in outdated surveys.
Ian Jones - 23/Nov/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Craig y Tarw
2 Forest View's Shattered Cracks
-
S 1
  Pant Ifan Upper Tier
4 K.M.A. HS 4a * 505
5 Madog VS 4c ** 736
6 Myomancy HVS 5b ** 332
7 Falling Block Crack S 4a * 926
8 Mistook VS 4c * 520
9 Gwynedd VS 4b * 414
10 Rammer's Route VS 5a * 422
11 Marath
-
HVD 139
12 MTN S 4a * 827
13 Central Arete S 204
14 Central Staircase VD 395
15 Bulging Wall HS 4a * 622
16 Quatre Fois Direct VS 4c ** 780
17 Meirionydd E1 6a ** 311
18 Tu'Shae HVS 5a 35
19 Unnamed Severe In Guidebook S 9
20 Girdle Traverse Of The Upper Tier
-
VD 3
21 Goop E4 6b 4
  Badger's Buttress
23 Badger's Buttress
-
VD 3
  Two Face Buttress
25 Next of Kin / Drug Test
-
HVS 5b 2
26 Ringwraith
-
E3 6a 2
27 Helsinki Wall
-
E1 5b * 188
28 Olympic Slab VS 4c ** 205
29 Blade Runner E4 6a * 23
30 The Olympiad
-
E2 5c 10
31 Orodruin
-
E2 6a ** 10
32 Surreal
-
E6 6b ** 1
33 The Unreal Finish
-
E6 6b ***  
34 Surreal McCoy
-
E6 6b **  
35 Plastic Nerve E2 5c ** 81
36 Stromboli HVS 5a ** 344
37 The Creature Variation
-
E1 5b 2
38 Hitler's Buttock E5 6b ** 10
39 Sexual Salami E5 6b *** 39
40 Cardiac Arete E4 6a *** 76
41 The Agony and the Ecstacy
-
E5 6b * 2
  Fear Buttress
43 Rhywbeth Bach
-
VS 4b 3
44 Mab y Bwthyn
-
E1 5b 2
45 Saffron Sunset
-
HVS 5b 2
46 Fear
-
E3 6a 2
47 Mab y Mynydd
-
E2 5c 2
  Eifionydd Buttress
49 Tam Lin
-
E2 5c 2
50 Fine and Mellow E1 5b *  
51 Electric Edge
-
E2 5c * 7
52 Mons Meg
-
HVS 5a 1
53 Huntley
-
VS 4c 2
54 Millipede
-
HVS 4c  
55 Eifionydd Wall
-
HVS 5b 7
56 Strempan
-
E2 5b 1
  Pen Y Ci Buttress
58 R.I.P.
-
VS 4c 1
59 Curved Air
-
E4 5c * 5
60 Pengo's Eliminate
-
E4 5c 3
61 Cerberus
-
E1 5b 1
62 Rock 'n' Roll
-
HS  
63 Basin Street
-
E3 6a 1
64 Oak Tree Wall
-
VS 2
  Scratch Area
66 Tea Time Arete
-
VS 5a 14
67 Ave Atque Vale S 18
68 Krakatoa
-
S 13
69 Gwrywgydiwr
-
E1 5c 3
70 Terraqua
-
E2 6a 9
71 Strumpet Blower
-
E1 5c 1
72 Etna
-
S 13
73 Pear Tree Variation
-
VS 4c 36
74 Silver Crow
-
E1 5b 9
75 The Struggler
-
E2 5c * 15
76 Borchgrevinck S * 62
77 Borchgrevinck / Poor Man's Peuterey S ** 206
78 Groove of Horror
-
E5 6a ** 7
79 Strapiombo HVS 5b *** 117
80 Erebus
-
E3 5c ** 19
81 No Holds Barred
-
E6 6c ** 1
82 Tall Dwarfs
-
E3 6a * 9
83 Poor Man's Peuterey S 4a *** 1720
84 Great Western
-
VS 4c * 266
85 Monkey Puzzle
-
E1 5b 96
86 Monkey Puzzle/Pincushion E1 5b ** 31
87 The Quakermen
-
E2 5c 42
88 Harvey Proctor's Spanking Slap
-
E2 5c 98
89 Pincushion E2 6a ** 315
90 Silly Billy
-
E2 5c 11
91 Silly Arete E3 5c *** 404
92 Fingerlicker E4 6a *** 147
93 Fingerlicker Direct Finish
-
E6 6b **  
94 Barbarian E1 5b *** 675
95 Scratch VS 4c ** 1044
96 Mangoletsi
-
E3 6a ** 62
97 Mangoletsi Direct Start
-
E2 5c 21
98 Mangoletsi Superdirect
-
E5 6b ** 1
99 Mangoletsi The Original Way E3 6a * 25
100 Spare Rib E4 6a *** 32
101 Itch
-
E2 6a * 125
102 Rhych dy Din E2 5b ** 55
103 Scratch Arete HVS 5a *** 1449
104 Ivy Crack
-
E1 5b 19
105 Slabby Flues
-
S 2
106 Peripherique (Girdle Traverse of Peuterey Buttress)
-
E1 5b ** 7
107 Laser Crack
-
E1 5b ** 28
108 Blobby Goes Ballistic
-
E1 5b 2
109 Integral
-
E2 5c * 30
110 Integral Direct
-
E3 5c ** 25
111 Limited Edition
-
E5 6b 1
112 The Toit
-
E4 6b 4
113 The Sandbagger
-
E5 6b 1
114 The Dune Child
-
E4 6b 1
  Avalanche Buttress
116 Fandango E1 5b 23
117 Lucretia
-
VS 5
118 Lakeland Gem
-
VS 1
119 Whistling Rufus
-
HVS  
120 Clown of Thorns
-
E1 5b 2
121 Technical Master
-
E2 5c ** 11
122 Wanda VS 4b 4
  Strangeways Buttress
124 Rapunzel
-
VS 5a 1
125 Attractive Mature Lady (Will Visit)
-
E2 5b  
126 Bucket Rider E1 5b 12
127 Alcatraz VS 4c ** 114
128 Hey!
-
E1 5b 10
129 Holloway
-
HVS 5a 103
130 Back to Nature
-
E3 6a 1
131 Crocadillo
-
E2 5b * 42
132 Crocadillo Variation
-
E2 5b ** 9
133 Strangeways
-
VS 4c 13
134 Holloway/Crocodillo E2 5b ** 8
135 Agoraphobia
-
HVS 5a  
  Hogmanay Buttress
137 Life in a Day
-
E3 5c  
138 Broadmoor
-
E1 5b  
139 Psyche 'n' Burn E6 6c *** 4
140 Vulcan E4 6a *** 159
141 Falcon E1 5b *** 392
142 Sonic Sinbin
-
E4 6a * 2
143 Pippikin E4 6a *** 30
144 Scarecrow
-
E3 5c * 18
145 Scarecrow Direct Start
-
E4 6a  
146 The Steal
-
E4 6b 1
147 Steelfingers
-
E2 5c 28
148 Raven's Nest Wall
-
E2 5b 9
149 Dead Rooks Don't Speak
-
E3 5b  
150 Rookery Nook
-
HVS 5a  
151 Gothic Grooves
-
E1 5b 15
152 W.O.B.
-
HVS 4c 13
153 Stormy Weather
-
E3 6a  
154 Hogmanay Hangover HS 4b ** 163
155 Hogmanay Hangover Direct Finish
-
HVS 5b 19
156 Omerta Crack
-
E3 6a 1
157 Hogmanay Girdle
-
E3 5c * 1
158 Valerian
-
E1 4
  Boulders
160 Circus V7 ** 2
161 Funfare V3 2
162 Bored Silly f5+ 5b *** 1
163 Jungle Hand Jive f6C 1
164 Full Gas f6A+ * 1
165 Holler For The Dollar f6B+ *** 1
166 Greenback f6C * 1
167 Nickles N Dime's f6A+ 1
168 Le Mans f6A * 1
169 Easy Peeler f2 1
170 Mental Magnet f6A+ 1
171 ArĂȘte Eliminate f6A 1
172 Independence Day f6B * 1
173 Arctic Circle VS 2
174 K.M.A * 4a ** 1
175 Mangoletsi / Itch Combination * E1 5b ** 4
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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