Please refrain from climbing outside

Due to the ongoing spread of Covid-19, please abstain from climbing outside.

At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.

We have suspended the UKC Logbooks Top Ascents and Conditions pages and we will no longer accept ascents dated from 23rd March onwards. You can still upload your historic ascents.

UKClimbing Team

Climbs 176
Rocktype Dolerite

Faces S

View Stats

Pete Robins attempting Psyche and Burn (E6) Tremadog © Jack Geldard - Assistant Editor

Crag features

The crag that is always warm and often dry when clouds hang over the Llanberis Pass a few miles away. Many routes in the low Extreme grades, including the classic Silly Arete (E3 5c) as well as plenty for the VS leader to go at. Very little below VS, but the other Tremadog crags have plenty of those.

Approach notes

Often hard to identify routes from the road due to trees. Walk off the top rather than abseiling, to save the trees.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Tremadog (2010)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Tremadog and Cwm Silyn (1989)
don't try to walk off to the right looking up. chest high brambles and no path. no path to the left from falcon/vulcan area so abseil is the only viable option for descent.
rurp - 16/Oct/12
DO NOT abseil off if possible/practical. It's lazy, antisocial and erodes the trees.
victim of mathematics - 03/Sep/12
abseil off if possible to prevent erosion of the paths
cankerblossom - 02/Sep/12
I don't believe this is Dolerite. More likely to be Micro-gabbro with Mica schist at the base. Dolerite is a term over used in outdated surveys.
Ian Jones - 23/Nov/10
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Craig y Tarw
2 Forest View's Shattered Cracks
-
S 1
  Pant Ifan Upper Tier
4 K.M.A. HS 4a * 624
5 Madog VS 4c ** 938
6 Myomancy HVS 5b ** 401
7 Falling Block Crack S 4a * 1255
8 Mistook VS 4c * 620
9 Gwynedd VS 4b * 542
10 Rammer's Route VS 5a * 549
11 Marath
-
HVD 144
12 MTN S 4a * 1143
13 Central Arete S 235
14 Central Staircase VD 469
15 Bulging Wall HS 4a * 801
16 Quatre Fois Direct VS 4c ** 980
17 Meirionydd E1 6a ** 364
18 Tu'Shae HVS 5a 40
19 Unnamed Severe In Guidebook S 12
20 Girdle Traverse Of The Upper Tier
-
VD 4
21 Goop E4 6b 4
  Badger's Buttress
23 Badger's Buttress
-
VD 3
  Two Face Buttress
25 Next of Kin / Drug Test
-
HVS 5b 2
26 Ringwraith
-
E3 6a 2
27 Helsinki Wall
-
E1 5b * 198
28 Olympic Slab VS 4c ** 221
29 Blade Runner E4 6a * 28
30 The Olympiad
-
E2 5c 11
31 Orodruin
-
E2 6a ** 11
32 Surreal
-
E6 6b ** 2
33 The Unreal Finish
-
E6 6b ***  
34 Surreal McCoy
-
E6 6b **  
35 Plastic Nerve E2 5c ** 87
36 Stromboli HVS 5a ** 350
37 The Creature Variation
-
E1 5b 2
38 Hitler's Buttock E5 6b ** 10
39 Sexual Salami E5 6b *** 31
40 Cardiac Arete E4 6a *** 71
41 The Agony and the Ecstacy
-
E5 6b * 2
42 Olympic Wall (Direct Finish) * HVS 5b 1
  Fear Buttress
44 Rhywbeth Bach
-
VS 4b 3
45 Mab y Bwthyn
-
E1 5b 2
46 Saffron Sunset
-
HVS 5b 2
47 Fear
-
E3 6a 2
48 Mab y Mynydd
-
E2 5c 2
  Eifionydd Buttress
50 Tam Lin
-
E2 5c 2
51 Fine and Mellow E1 5b *  
52 Electric Edge
-
E2 5c * 6
53 Mons Meg
-
HVS 5a 1
54 Huntley
-
VS 4c 2
55 Millipede
-
HVS 4c  
56 Eifionydd Wall
-
HVS 5b 9
57 Strempan
-
E2 5b 1
  Pen Y Ci Buttress
59 R.I.P.
-
VS 4c 1
60 Curved Air
-
E4 5c * 5
61 Pengo's Eliminate
-
E4 5c 3
62 Cerberus
-
E1 5b 1
63 Rock 'n' Roll
-
HS  
Climb name Grade
64 Basin Street
-
E3 6a 1
65 Oak Tree Wall
-
VS 4
  Scratch Area
67 Tea Time Arete
-
VS 5a 18
68 Ave Atque Vale S 18
69 Krakatoa
-
S 13
70 Gwrywgydiwr
-
E1 5c 3
71 Terraqua
-
E2 6a 10
72 Strumpet Blower
-
E1 5c 1
73 Etna
-
S 14
74 Pear Tree Variation
-
VS 4c 36
75 Silver Crow
-
E1 5b 9
76 The Struggler
-
E2 5c * 16
77 Borchgrevinck S * 64
78 Borchgrevinck / Poor Man's Peuterey S ** 240
79 Groove of Horror
-
E5 6a ** 9
80 Strapiombo HVS 5b *** 103
81 Erebus
-
E3 5c ** 21
82 No Holds Barred
-
E6 6c ** 1
83 Tall Dwarfs
-
E3 6a * 10
84 Poor Man's Peuterey S 4a *** 1964
85 Great Western
-
VS 4c * 306
86 Monkey Puzzle
-
E1 5b 111
87 Monkey Puzzle/Pincushion E1 5b ** 43
88 The Quakermen
-
E2 5c 54
89 Harvey Proctor's Spanking Slap
-
E2 5c 110
90 Pincushion E2 6a ** 339
91 Silly Billy
-
E2 5c 15
92 Silly Arete E3 5c *** 376
93 Fingerlicker E4 6a *** 139
94 Fingerlicker Direct Finish
-
E6 6b **  
95 Barbarian E1 5b *** 738
96 Scratch VS 4c ** 1191
97 Mangoletsi
-
E3 6a ** 75
98 Mangoletsi Direct Start
-
E2 5c 26
99 Mangoletsi Superdirect
-
E5 6b ** 2
100 Mangoletsi The Original Way E3 6a * 30
101 Spare Rib E4 6a *** 36
102 Itch
-
E2 6a * 144
103 Rhych dy Din E2 5b ** 78
104 Scratch Arete HVS 5a *** 1627
105 Ivy Crack
-
E1 5b 21
106 Slabby Flues
-
S 3
107 Peripherique (Girdle Traverse of Peuterey Buttress)
-
E1 5b ** 7
108 Laser Crack
-
E1 5b ** 24
109 Blobby Goes Ballistic
-
E1 5b 2
110 Integral
-
E2 5c * 35
111 Integral Direct
-
E3 5c ** 31
112 Limited Edition
-
E5 6b 1
113 The Toit
-
E4 6b 5
114 The Sandbagger
-
E5 6b 1
115 The Dune Child
-
E4 6b 1
116 Mangoletsi/Itch * E2 5b 2
  Avalanche Buttress
118 Fandango E1 5b 27
119 Lucretia
-
VS 4
120 Lakeland Gem
-
VS 1
121 Whistling Rufus
-
HVS  
122 Clown of Thorns
-
E1 5b 2
123 Technical Master
-
E2 5c ** 14
124 Wanda VS 4b 4
  Strangeways Buttress
126 Rapunzel
-
VS 5a 1
Climb name Grade
127 Attractive Mature Lady (Will Visit)
-
E2 5b  
128 Bucket Rider E1 5b 15
129 Alcatraz VS 4c ** 134
130 Hey!
-
E1 5b 20
131 Holloway
-
HVS 5a 124
132 Back to Nature
-
E3 6a 1
133 Crocadillo
-
E2 5b * 51
134 Crocadillo Variation
-
E2 5b ** 10
135 Strangeways
-
VS 4c 13
136 Holloway/Crocodillo E2 5b ** 17
137 Agoraphobia
-
HVS 5a  
  Hogmanay Buttress
139 Life in a Day
-
E3 5c  
140 Broadmoor
-
E1 5b  
141 Psyche 'n' Burn E6 6c *** 4
142 Vulcan E4 6a *** 168
143 Falcon E1 5b *** 429
144 Sonic Sinbin
-
E4 6a * 2
145 Pippikin E4 6a *** 31
146 Scarecrow
-
E3 5c * 20
147 Scarecrow Direct Start
-
E4 6a  
148 The Steal
-
E4 6b 1
149 Steelfingers
-
E2 5c 33
150 Raven's Nest Wall
-
E2 5b 13
151 Dead Rooks Don't Speak
-
E3 5b  
152 Rookery Nook
-
HVS 5a  
153 Gothic Grooves
-
E1 5b 15
154 W.O.B.
-
HVS 4c 13
155 Stormy Weather
-
E3 6a  
156 Hogmanay Hangover HS 4b ** 169
157 Hogmanay Hangover Direct Finish
-
HVS 5b 25
158 Omerta Crack
-
E3 6a 1
159 Hogmanay Girdle
-
E3 5c * 1
160 Valerian
-
E1 4
  Boulders
162 Circus V7 ** 2
163 Funfare V3 2
164 Bored Silly f5+ 5b *** 1
165 Jungle Hand Jive f6C 1
166 Full Gas f6A+ * 1
167 Holler For The Dollar f6B+ *** 1
168 Greenback f6C * 1
169 Nickles N Dime's f6A+ 1
170 Le Mans f6A * 1
171 Easy Peeler f2 1
172 Mental Magnet f6A+ 1
173 ArĂȘte Eliminate f6A 1
174 Independence Day f6B * 1
175 Arctic Circle VS 3
176 K.M.A * 4a ** 2
177 Mangoletsi / Itch Combination * E1 5b ** 8
178 Surgeon's Krakau * f6A+ ** 8
179 Smearcats * f6A *** 7
180 M Cat * f6A ** 7
181 W High * f4+ 2
182 Crab to Pineapple * f6A+ ** 5
183 The Cracks * f4 4b 4
184 American Monster Crack * VE 7a ***  
185 Little prow on the prairie * f7A  
186 On the Edge * f4+ 4c ** 1
  Moved climbs from Upper Tier Tremadoc
188 K.M.a * HS 4a * 2
189 Quatre Fois Direct * VS 4c ** 3
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer victim of mathematics