Climbs 134
Rocktype Limestone

Faces NE

Death Wish © Seymore Butt

Crag features

The long line of vertical grey and blue streaked limestone on the southern side of the River Skirfare in Littondale are, for much of the year, patrolled only by Peregrine Falcons. Come late summer the magnificent crag starts to attract its other seasonal visitor in search of some of Yorkshireâs finest traditional limestone climbs. The climbing experience at Blue Scar compliments Yorkshire's near-by Big Three, offering, above all, a bit of peace and quiet when the hordes have descended on Malham and Gordale or the traffic noise is continuous on the road beneath Kilnsey. Although there are a few good sport routes here, it is the line-up of traditional pitches which attracts the majority of visitors. Much of the climbing is of a technical and sustained nature, on vertical ground and protected by good natural gear and a fair amount of pegs and threads but long run-outs will be encountered on many of the routes. Blue Scar is, for the most part, composed of excellent, compact vertical limestone; its only obvious weakness being two horizontal breaks that cut across the faces. The rock itself looks blank but has a profusion of small crimps, pockets, side-pulls, slopers and even the odd jug. Undoubtedly the showpiece of the crag is the Central Wall but the Left Wall also has some quality pitches at more amenable grades. The routes on the right-hand side are not as good but are still worth seeking out for sport climbers.

Approach notes

LATEST NEWS!!!!

From now on permission will only be given to those who apply in writing in advance. The landowner has issued the following statement:

... 'With effect from the 1st July 2011 permissive access arrangements have changed and access is only with written permission obtained in advance. Proof of current BMC membership will be required. Application forms from sundial@globalnet.co.uk'....

The owner has agreed that once obtained, permission will last for a season.

Parking and other details will be included on an information sheet available with the application form.

The landowner states that his permission was always conditional on BMC membership (for insurance / liability reasons) but from now on proof of membership will be required. The new arrangements come about because of the problems caused last year by congestion around the farm by parked vehicles. New parking arrangements will be detailed in the information leaflet."

Blue Scar is easily reached from either Kilnsey (5 minutes extra drive) or over the top of Malham and through the village of Arncliffe. The parking for Blue Scar is situated near a farm about half way from Kilnsey to Arncliffe. PARKING SPACE IS LIMITED - take great care not to block any of the farm buildings entrances or the road itself. IF FARMER IS IN THE BUILDINGS THEN PERMISSION SHOULD BE SOUGHT TO USE THE FOLLOWING ACCESS. From the parking places walk to the east end of the farm buildings and go through the iron gate (cow shed) and then through the iron gate immediately on the left into a field. Cross the small stream and walk diagonally across the field towards a gate in the wire fence. Go through the gate and follow the fence line to a gap in the stone wall where the stream runs. Go through the gap, or one 50m to the left, to arrive at the base of the crag. This path is not a public right of way and the approach described is the only permitted access to and from the crag.

Access Advice

New access arrangements are currently under trial between the landowners and the BMC. Currently access can only be gained with written permission of the landowner, Patrick Walker via sundial@globalnet.co.uk'. Mr Walker owns the farm land and buildings below the left hand side of the cliff and the left wing of the crag. Other landowners own the various parcels of land below Central Wall and the Right Wing and the majority of the cliff face and are happy for climbing to continue but so far, the only agreed access route from the road is via Mr Walker's Land.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

 Peregrine habitually, and Raven occasionally, nest on this cliff and are generally more sensitive to disturbance here than at other sites such as Malham Cove.

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Guidebooks

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Left Wing
2 Limestone Cowboy E3 5c 3
3 Out of the Blue E3 6a 10
4 The Blues E2 6a 2
5 End Flake VS 4c 1
6 Exo-sod E1 5b 1
7 Blue Thunder E3 5c * 18
8 Blue Sister E3 5c * 23
9 End of the Line E3 6a 1
10 Blue Bottle HVS 5b 7
11 Some Blue For You E1 5a ** 37
12 Goon Show E4 6a * 4
13 Hell's Teeth E4 6a ** 13
14 Captain Beefcake E5 6a * 5
15 The Blue Beat E4 6b ** 13
16 The Kill E4 6a ** 16
17 Screaming Blue Murder E5 6b 1
18 The Blue Preter E3 6a 4
19 The Real Thing VS 4c 5
20 Unreal E3 5c ** 36
21 Blue Grit E4 6a ** 30
22 The Shootist E5 6b *** 23
23 The Spineless E5 6b * 3
24 The Spineless Right-hand E5 6a * 1
25 Blue Band E4 6b **  
  Blue Chip Buttress
27 Pot of Gold
-
VS 4c  
28 Blue Chip
-
VS 4c  
29 Arcwright E3 6a 1
30 Archangel E5 6c  
31 Black Death
-
E2 5b  
32 Blue Max E2 5b 2
33 Out of the Mould (or is it Mold)
-
E3 6a  
34 The Piddler
-
S 1
  Central Wall
36 Bolt from the Blue E5 6a * 8
37 More Bolts from the Blue E5 6b ** 3
38 Bottlnose E6 6b *  
39 Hammerhead E6 6b ** 2
40 Priapism E5 6b *** 15
41 Central Wall E5 6a *** 44
42 Barracuda E6 6b *** 4
43 Death Wish E7 6b *** 5
44 Stairway to Heaven E7 6c *** 1
45 True Blue E7 6b ***  
46 Something New E7 6c * 1
47 Blue Angel E7 6c *** 1
48 The Great White E6 6b *** 7
49 Blue Water, White Death E6 6c *** 2
50 Something Borrowed E6 6c ** 1
51 Something Blue E6 6b * 1
52 The Underlap E5 6b *  
53 The Professor of Desire E6 6c ** 1
54 Blue Afternoon 7c *  
55 The Lord of the Dance E7 6c ***  
  Pig Sheep Buttress
57 The Sheep Spider 7b * 3
58 Dolly 7a * 3
59 The Pig Sheep 7b * 3
60 The Hybrid E5 6b  
  The Grey Wall
62 Do you feel lucky? 6c * 4
63 Magnum Force 6b+ * 4
64 Make My Day 6b * 9
65 The Argument of Silence 6b ** 23
66 Sudden Impact 7a+ * 6
67 Dirty Harry 6b ** 12
68 Break Free 6c *** 16
69 The Sibyl Speaks 6c *** 13
70 Blue sky thinking 6c+ * 4
71 AquaMarine 6b+ * 5
72 Across the Wide Blue Yonder 7a+ *** 4
73 Fighting Chance 7a ** 10
74 The Gingerbread House 6b+ ** 12
75 Fervour and Further 6b * 19
76 From Beer To Infirmity 7b * 3
77 A Rattling Good Yarn 7a * 3
  The Arched Buttress
79 Passion off the Pitch 6b+ 13
80 Blue Swede's Shoes 6b+ 5
81 Sidewinder 6b+ * 22
82 Rattler 6c * 13
83 Hissing Sid 6b+ 9
84 Cosmetic Surgery 6b+ 6
85 Scarface 6c * 13
86 A Cut Above (The Rest) 7b ** 2
87 Altered Images 6c+ 4
88 Nip and Tuck 7a+ ** 4
89 Underneath the Arches 6a+ 10
90 The Arch Of Damocles 7a ** 9
91 Shake, Rattle and Roll 7a+ 9
92 Pillar Talk 7a ** 39
93 Rattle Trap 7a ** 25
94 The Gentle/Tender Trap 7a+ ** 3
95 The Tender Trap 7a+ ** 9
96 once bitten 6c+ ** 4
97 Twice Shy 7a * 3
98 Midge Repellent Part 1 6b ** 11
99 Midge Repellent Part 2 7b * 1
100 Dark Summer 6b ** 12
101 New Desire 6a+ ** 23
102 Rising Passions 6b *** 40
103 Meaty Beaty Big and Bouncy 6b+ ** 9
104 Rising Damp 6b ** 12
105 Ardour and Harder 6a+ ** 33
106 Lust but not least 6b 10
107 All Embracing 6a+ ** 5
  Far Right Wall
109 The Wall
-
E1 5b 2
110 In the Blue Corner 6b+ * 13
111 Weighting in the Wings 6b * 17
112 Heavyweight Champion 6c+ ** 11
113 Time Out of Mind 7a+ *** 17
114 Childhood's End 7a+ ** 6
115 The Arthur Sowden Concept 7a+ ** 9
116 One Previous Owner 7a+ ** 13
117 A Bit of Previous 7a+ ** 1
118 Maiden Voyage 6b ** 2
119 Valdez is Coming E4 6a ** 3
120 Blue Blood (trad) 6c ** 9
121 Blue Blood
-
6c 11
122 Phase Two (trad)
-
E2 5c 3
123 Phase Two 6b+ ** 15
124 Blue Rinse 6b ** 7
125 Rip-em-off again AB (trad) E2 5b ** 4
126 Rip-em off again AB 6b ** 8
127 Are we mad 6a * 11
128 Beyond the Call of Duty 6a * 10
129 Blue Finger 5c * 11
130 Innocent Man 7a ** 2
  Upper Tier
132 Continual Assessment
-
7b+  
133 Snozzcumber
-
7a+ 1
134 Trogglehumper
-
7c  
135 Stewart Pringle
-
7b  
136 Loitering With Intent
-
7a+ 1
137 Minor Misdemeanour
-
7a+ 1
138 The Lurch
-
VS 4c 1
139 Throbscottle
-
7b+ 1
140 Holiday Blues
-
7a+ 1
  Traverses
142 An Awfully Big Adventure 7a+ *** 1
143 The Air Turned Blue E4 *** 1

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