Climbs 134
Rocktype Limestone

Faces NE

Death Wish © Seymore Butt

Crag features

The long line of vertical grey and blue streaked limestone on the southern side of the River Skirfare in Littondale are, for much of the year, patrolled only by Peregrine Falcons. Come late summer the magnificent crag starts to attract its other seasonal visitor in search of some of Yorkshireâs finest traditional limestone climbs. The climbing experience at Blue Scar compliments Yorkshire's near-by Big Three, offering, above all, a bit of peace and quiet when the hordes have descended on Malham and Gordale or the traffic noise is continuous on the road beneath Kilnsey. Although there are a few good sport routes here, it is the line-up of traditional pitches which attracts the majority of visitors. Much of the climbing is of a technical and sustained nature, on vertical ground and protected by good natural gear and a fair amount of pegs and threads but long run-outs will be encountered on many of the routes. Blue Scar is, for the most part, composed of excellent, compact vertical limestone; its only obvious weakness being two horizontal breaks that cut across the faces. The rock itself looks blank but has a profusion of small crimps, pockets, side-pulls, slopers and even the odd jug. Undoubtedly the showpiece of the crag is the Central Wall but the Left Wall also has some quality pitches at more amenable grades. The routes on the right-hand side are not as good but are still worth seeking out for sport climbers.

Approach notes


From now on permission will only be given to those who apply in writing in advance. The landowner has issued the following statement:

... 'With effect from the 1st July 2011 permissive access arrangements have changed and access is only with written permission obtained in advance. Proof of current BMC membership will be required. Application forms from'....

The owner has agreed that once obtained, permission will last for a season.

Parking and other details will be included on an information sheet available with the application form.

The landowner states that his permission was always conditional on BMC membership (for insurance / liability reasons) but from now on proof of membership will be required. The new arrangements come about because of the problems caused last year by congestion around the farm by parked vehicles. New parking arrangements will be detailed in the information leaflet."

Blue Scar is easily reached from either Kilnsey (5 minutes extra drive) or over the top of Malham and through the village of Arncliffe. The parking for Blue Scar is situated near a farm about half way from Kilnsey to Arncliffe. PARKING SPACE IS LIMITED - take great care not to block any of the farm buildings entrances or the road itself. IF FARMER IS IN THE BUILDINGS THEN PERMISSION SHOULD BE SOUGHT TO USE THE FOLLOWING ACCESS. From the parking places walk to the east end of the farm buildings and go through the iron gate (cow shed) and then through the iron gate immediately on the left into a field. Cross the small stream and walk diagonally across the field towards a gate in the wire fence. Go through the gate and follow the fence line to a gap in the stone wall where the stream runs. Go through the gap, or one 50m to the left, to arrive at the base of the crag. This path is not a public right of way and the approach described is the only permitted access to and from the crag.

Restricted Access

New access arrangements are currently under trial between the landowners and the BMC. Currently access can only be gained with written permission of the landowner, Patrick Walker via'. Mr Walker owns the farm land and buildings below the left hand side of the cliff and the left wing of the crag. Other landowners own the various parcels of land below Central Wall and the Right Wing and the majority of the cliff face and are happy for climbing to continue but so far, the only agreed access route from the road is via Mr Walker's Land.

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Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Left Wing 
2Limestone CowboyE3 5c 2
3Out of the BlueE3 6a 10
4The BluesE2 6a 2
5End FlakeVS 4c 1
6Exo-sodE1 5b 1
7Blue ThunderE3 5c *17
8Blue SisterE3 5c *23
9End of the LineE3 6a 1
10Blue BottleHVS 5b 7
11Some Blue For YouE1 5a **36
12Goon ShowE4 6a *4
13Hell's TeethE4 6a **12
14Captain BeefcakeE5 6a *4
15The Blue BeatE4 6b **12
16The KillE4 6a **16
17Screaming Blue MurderE5 6b 1
18The Blue PreterE3 6a 4
19The Real ThingVS 4c 5
20UnrealE3 5c **37
21Blue GritE4 6a **29
22The ShootistE5 6b ***24
23The SpinelessE5 6b *3
24The Spineless Right-handE5 6a *1
25Blue BandE4 6b ** 
 Blue Chip Buttress 
27Pot of Gold
VS 4c  
28Blue Chip
VS 4c  
29ArcwrightE3 6a 1
30ArchangelE5 6c  
31Black Death
E2 5b  
32Blue MaxE2 5b 2
33Out of the Mould (or is it Mold)
E3 6a  
34The Piddler
S 1
 Central Wall 
36Bolt from the BlueE5 6a *8
37More Bolts from the BlueE5 6b **3
38BottlnoseE6 6b * 
39HammerheadE6 6b **2
40PriapismE5 6b ***15
41Central WallE5 6a ***50
42BarracudaE6 6b ***3
43Death WishE7 6b ***4
44Stairway to HeavenE7 6c *** 
45True BlueE7 6b *** 
46Something NewE7 6c *1
47Blue AngelE7 6c ***1
48The Great WhiteE6 6b ***7
97Twice Shy7a *3
98Midge Repellent Part 16b **11
99Midge Repellent Part 27b *1
100Dark Summer6b **12
101New Desire6a+ **24
102Rising Passions6b ***42
103Meaty Beaty Big and Bouncy6b+ **10
104Rising Damp6b **12
105Ardour and Harder6a+ **33
106Lust but not least6b 10
107All Embracing6a+ **5
 Far Right Wall 
109The Wall
E1 5b 2
110In the Blue Corner6b+ *13
111Weighting in the Wings6b *17
112Heavyweight Champion6c+ **11
113Time Out of Mind7a+ ***14
114Childhood's End7a+ **6
115The Arthur Sowden Concept7a+ **9
116One Previous Owner7a+ **14
117A Bit of Previous7a+ **2
118Maiden Voyage6b **2
119Valdez is ComingE4 6a **3
120Blue Blood (trad)6c **9
121Blue Blood
6c 11
122Phase Two (trad)
E2 5c 3
123Phase Two6b+ **16
124Blue Rinse6b **7
125Rip-em-off again AB (trad)E2 5b **4
126Rip-em off again AB6b **8
127Are we mad6a *11
128Beyond the Call of Duty6a *10
129Blue Finger5c *11
130Innocent Man7a **2
 Upper Tier 
132Continual Assessment
7a+ 1
135Stewart Pringle
136Loitering With Intent
7a+ 1
137Minor Misdemeanour
7a+ 1
138The Lurch
VS 4c 1
7b+ 1
140Holiday Blues
7a+ 1
142An Awfully Big Adventure7a+ ***1
143The Air Turned BlueE4 ***1

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