Climbs 250
Rocktype Limestone

Concentrating hard on Supercool © Kevin Avery

Crag features

The gaping mouth of Gordale is a sight to leave most climbers awestruck on first aquaintance. The combination of its narrowing overhanging walls and the constant drone of the wind and waterfall make it a place where only familiarity tempers the apprehension. However, once you are acquainted with the place, the climbing experience is easily equal to its more popular counterparts at Kilnsey and Malham, in fact many will find it an even more compelling place to climb be it on a gripping ascent of an adventurous traditional line or doing battle with one of its huge, sustained, forearm-bursting and rope-stretching sport pitches.

Approach notes

One of the biggest problems at Gordale is the ever-present danger of rockfall. More often than not rockfall is natural erosion or caused by sheep but that may not stop people blaming climbers. There is little we can do about this but we can make sure that, whenever we do climb here, we take the greatest of care not to dislodge rock onto walkers below. Be very aware that any falling rock could be fatal for those below and even a small incident may result in a total climbing ban here.

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Guidebooks

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
More info
It is amazing, a good walk. It is very difficult to climb but my dad mum, and me got my 6 year old sister and my 75 year old granny up there so it can't be that bad!
ryony nicholson - 19/Oct/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Upper Left Wing
2 The Greaser
-
HS 4a 4
3 Juggy Corner D 6
4 Grey Crack MVS 4b 5
5 Dinner Crack S 4
6 Old Rake M 3
7 The Crescent S 3
8 Slanting Scoop
-
VD 5
9 Sheep's Crack HVS 5a 1
10 Keyhole Ridge
-
HS 4a * 7
11 Black Dog HS 4b * 2
12 Sheep's Groove VS 4c 3
13 Tufted Duck
-
E2 5c ** 1
  Lower Left Wing
15 Katydid
-
HS 4b * 4
16 Stingo VS 5a 1
17 The Riddler
-
VS 4c * 4
18 The Spinner HVS 6a 1
19 Tunnel Vision E4 6a * 2
20 Nonsuch E2 5c 1
21 The Bulger
-
HVS 5a 4
22 Deception S 10
23 Parallel Cracks
-
HS 4a 1
24 The Eliminate VS 4c ** 34
25 Tiptoe
-
VS 4c * 18
26 Black Knight HVS 5a 4
27 Overhanging Flake
-
HVS 5a 10
28 Blat
-
HVS 5c 2
29 The Gaffer
-
VS 5a 1
30 Narrowing Crack VS 4c * 2
31 Hang the Joker E2 5c * 1
32 Paradise Street
-
HS 4b * 7
33 Corner Tree Climb
-
VD 5
34 Hidden Corner S 2
35 The Norper E1 5b4b 5
36 Court Jester
-
E2 5c ** 11
37 The Lyncher
-
E2 5c *** 10
38 yark
-
E1 5b ** 9
39 Bushmaster
-
VS 4c 3
40 The Comeback VS 4c * 2
41 King Tut VS 1
  Face Route Area
43 Promises, Promises 6a * 56
44 Special Needs E4 5c 1
45 I'm Forever Threatening 6c * 59
46 Nothing to Declare E5 6a ** 15
47 Decree Nisi E6 6b **  
48 Nothing to Prepare E5 6a * 3
49 A New Underground E6 6a *  
50 Concrete Jungle E6 6b ** 5
51 The Cement Garden (Fully bolted) 7c *** 8
52 The Cement Garden(Pre 2015) E6 6c *** 7
53 The Perfect Mirage 8a *** 3
54 Mirage 8a *** 2
55 Face Route E3 6a *** 148
56 Living Dead Extensions E5 6a ** 4
57 Mossdale Trip E6 6a ** 5
58 Sweet Hereafter E7 6c  
59 Jenny Wren E5 6a * 29
  Rebel Area
61 Revolt E5 6b ** 3
62 Rebel E5 6b *** 15
63 The Cause E5 6b ** 5
64 The Good, The Bad And The Ugly E7 6b *** 1
65 The Unforgiven E6 6b **  
66 What Grot Got E8 6c  
67 Three Wishes E5 6a ** 1
68 What God Wants 7b 2
69 Dead Man Walking E6 **  
70 King Rat E5 6c ** 1
71 Block And Decker 6b+ 8
72 The Hungerford Massacre 7a+ 2
73 Nowt for Nearly 6c+ 2
74 Meridian E6 6b *** 1
75 Girdle traverse of the left wall
-
E2 5c ** 6
Climb name Grade
  Backwater Buttress
77 The Black Bottom E1  
78 The Missing Link HVS  
79 Hoodlum Priest 7b ** 10
80 Ventura 7b ** 6
81 Pedestal Wall
-
E1 5b * 3
82 Pedestal Crack HS 4b * 10
83 Naked 7b+ ** 7
84 Wise Crack E3 5c * 4
85 Featuristic 7a * 25
86 What Do You Want Me To Do With It 7a+ * 12
87 Don't Matter Just Don't Bite It 7a+ * 9
88 Erotic Nightmare 7b+ 1
89 Where's the Musk? 7b+ * 1
  Kaarst Buttress
91 Wire Wound
-
E2 5c 2
92 Crossley Yarns 6c * 33
93 Red Rhinoceros 6c * 35
94 Liang Shan Po 7a+ * 2
95 Palming Pavorotti's Peach 7a+ 8
96 Horny 6c 3
97 Soft Option 6b+ 16
  The Grotto
99 Shallow Water Sport 6c+ * 2
100 Flood Gates 7a 2
101 Water Margin 7b+ * 3
102 Revel In Your Time 7b+ * 2
103 Green Lipped Mussels 7c ** 6
  Waterfall Buttress
105 Alien Water Kiss E6 6b **  
106 Darkness Beckons E6 6b ***  
107 Meggazones E4 ** 6
108 Slapstick 7c 1
109 Who's For Tea 7a+ 4
110 In The Red 7b+ 1
111 Crash Test Dummy 7a+ 6
112 Green Carpet 6b * 21
113 Moulin Rouge 6c * 10
114 Shadowlands E2 5c ** 13
115 The Twilight Zone 6b+ 5
116 Sunshine
-
HVS 5a 1
  darkness & Light Area
118 Darkness E2 5c  
119 Enlightenment
-
E6 6b 2
120 Prince of Darkness E5 6a ** 12
121 Light E2 5c ** 62
122 Cabaret E1 5b *** 30
123 Nightride E2 5c ** 2
  Deliverance Buttress
125 Delivertoad E6 6a ** 6
126 Liberation E5 6b ** 1
127 Deliverance E5 6b *** 24
128 Redemption E5 6a ** 7
129 Unknown Pleasures E5 6b **  
130 Dolstone E4 5c 2
131 West Face Route
-
VS 4b * 3
  Solstice Wall
133 Burning Daylight E6 6a * 2
134 Solstice E5 6a ** 19
135 The Thrivin' E4 6a * 13
136 Climacteric
-
E5 6a 2
137 Ward 10 7a 7
138 Chemistry Set E6 6b 2
139 Ocean Heart
-
6c ** 12
140 Mr Trimby's Guinea Pig 6c+ 7
141 Pillar and Roof Route 7b+ 1
  Cave Route Area
143 Ivy Groove E3 5c * 21
144 A Squire to Madness
-
E6 6a * 2
145 A Squire to Madness - Variation Start E6 6a ** 2
146 Comedy of Errors E5 6a ** 12
147 Revival 7b+ *** 42
148 Hang onto your ego 7c  
149 Revitalised 7b+ *** 5
150 Deconstruction E6 6b 4
151 Come Dancing
-
E3 5c 2
Climb name Grade
152 Well, Well, Well 6b+ 19
153 Original start of Masochism Tango 7a * 10
154 Masochism Tango E6 6c ** 2
155 Strictly Ballroom 7a * 137
156 Nothing Lasts Forever 7b+ * 31
157 Strictly Masochism 7c+ *** 8
158 Strictly Cool 7c+ *** 6
159 Huecool 8b ** 10
160 Huecooler 8b *** 1
161 Supercool 8a+ *** 66
162 Cave Cool 8a * 1
163 A Grand Day Out 7c+ *** 2
164 Cave Route Left (pre-2012 trad version) 7c+ 6c *** 19
165 Cave Route Left-hand 7c+ *** 35
166 Cave Eliminate 7c+ ** 9
167 Big Day Out 7c+  
168 Cave Route Right E6 6b *** 65
169 Cave Route Right (Sport 2018 onwards) 7b+ *** 15
170 Cave Route (aid)
-
A2 *** 8
171 Defcon 3 8a *** 45
172 Last Dog 7b * 151
173 Dogpoint (Last Dog then Pierrepoint to the roof) 7b+ *** 79
174 Dogpoint (Last Dog then Pierrepoint over the roof to the top) 7c+ *** 58
175 Pierrepoint (to belay below the roof) 7c * 7
176 Pierrepoint 7c+ *** 4
177 Last Days 7c *** 8
178 Hangman (Alt) Direct Start 7c+ *  
179 Hangman (Trad pre 2018) E6 6b *** 5
180 Hangman (Sport 2018 onwards) 7b+ ** 7
181 Hangdog Days 7c ** 3
182 The Noose E7 6c  
183 Trubble 8a+ * 8
184 The Inca Trail 7c * 6
185 Well Hung 7b *** 14
186 Gallows Humour 7a ** 23
187 Ruth Ellis 7c  
188 Bite It And Believe It
-
E6 6b ** 3
189 Bite it and Believe it, Suck it and See E6 6b *** 1
190 Bliss E7 6b *** 2
191 Through Trip
-
E6  
  Upper Right Wing
193 Lucifer Sam
-
MVS 4b 1
194 D.K.
-
VD 2
195 Willy Nilly
-
S 1
196 Boy Wonder VS 4c 1
197 David
-
VD 4
198 Obtuse Corner
-
S 6
199 Ambiguous Arete S 1
200 Jonathon
-
VD 2
201 Walnut Scoop
-
MVS 4b * 3
202 December Dodos
-
S 1
203 Gates
-
S 3
204 Faked Cards
-
VS 4c 2
205 The Joker VS 4c 2
206 The Knave
-
HVS 5a 2
207 The Juggler HVS 5a 4
208 Fingers
-
S * 9
209 Cat Was Wrong HS 1
210 Pinnacle Crack D * 1
211 Sarcasm
-
S 9
212 Jenny Spinner
-
MVS 4b 2
213 Two Flake Climb
-
HS 4a 3
214 Little Flake Climb
-
VS 4c * 3
215 Disappointment HVS 5a 1
216 Bogside
-
HVS 5a 1
217 Tycho VS 4c 1
218 S.G.B.
-
MS 3
219 The Corner
-
S 2
220 The Wall HS 1
  Waterfalls
222 Gordale Scar Waterfall (Summer) 1 41
223 Gordale Waterfall Right 1 ** 21
  Winter Climbs
225 Gordale waterfall
-
III 18
  Unsorted

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