Climbs 250
Rocktype Limestone

Concentrating hard on Supercool © Kevin Avery

Crag features

The gaping mouth of Gordale is a sight to leave most climbers awestruck on first aquaintance. The combination of its narrowing overhanging walls and the constant drone of the wind and waterfall make it a place where only familiarity tempers the apprehension. However, once you are acquainted with the place, the climbing experience is easily equal to its more popular counterparts at Kilnsey and Malham, in fact many will find it an even more compelling place to climb be it on a gripping ascent of an adventurous traditional line or doing battle with one of its huge, sustained, forearm-bursting and rope-stretching sport pitches.

Approach notes

One of the biggest problems at Gordale is the ever-present danger of rockfall. More often than not rockfall is natural erosion or caused by sheep but that may not stop people blaming climbers. There is little we can do about this but we can make sure that, whenever we do climb here, we take the greatest of care not to dislodge rock onto walkers below. Be very aware that any falling rock could be fatal for those below and even a small incident may result in a total climbing ban here.

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Guidebooks

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
More info
It is amazing, a good walk. It is very difficult to climb but my dad mum, and me got my 6 year old sister and my 75 year old granny up there so it can't be that bad!
ryony nicholson - 19/Oct/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Upper Left Wing 
2The Greaser
-
HS 4a 4
3Juggy CornerD 6
4Grey CrackMVS 4b 5
5Dinner CrackS 4
6Old RakeM 3
7The CrescentS 3
8Slanting Scoop
-
VD 5
9Sheep's CrackHVS 5a 1
10Keyhole Ridge
-
HS 4a *7
11Black DogHS 4b *2
12Sheep's GrooveVS 4c 3
13Tufted Duck
-
E2 5c **1
 Lower Left Wing 
15Katydid
-
HS 4b *4
16StingoVS 5a 1
17The Riddler
-
VS 4c *4
18The SpinnerHVS 6a 1
19Tunnel VisionE4 6a *2
20NonsuchE2 5c 1
21The Bulger
-
HVS 5a 4
22DeceptionS 10
23Parallel Cracks
-
HS 4a 1
24The EliminateVS 4c **32
25Tiptoe
-
VS 4c *16
26Black KnightHVS 5a 4
27Overhanging Flake
-
HVS 5a 9
28Blat
-
HVS 5c 2
29The Gaffer
-
VS 5a 1
30Narrowing CrackVS 4c *2
31Hang the JokerE2 5c *1
32Paradise Street
-
HS 4b *7
33Corner Tree Climb
-
VD 5
34Hidden CornerS 2
35The NorperE1 5b4b 2
36Court Jester
-
E2 5c **9
37The Lyncher
-
E2 5c ***8
38yark
-
E1 5b **8
39Bushmaster
-
VS 4c 3
40The ComebackVS 4c *2
41King TutVS 1
 Face Route Area 
43Promises, Promises6a *55
44Special NeedsE4 5c 1
45I'm Forever Threatening6c *56
46Nothing to DeclareE5 6a **14
47Decree NisiE6 6b ** 
48Nothing to PrepareE5 6a *2
49A New UndergroundE6 6a * 
50Concrete JungleE6 6b **5
51The Cement Garden (Fully bolted)7c ***5
52The Cement Garden(Pre 2015)E6 6c ***7
53The Perfect Mirage8a ***3
54Mirage8a ***2
55Face RouteE3 6a ***145
56Living Dead ExtensionsE5 6a **4
57Mossdale TripE6 6a **5
58Sweet HereafterE7 6c  
59Jenny WrenE5 6a *25
 Rebel Area 
61RevoltE5 6b **3
62RebelE5 6b ***10
63The CauseE5 6b **5
64The Good, The Bad And The UglyE7 6b ***1
65The UnforgivenE6 6b ** 
66What Grot GotE8 6c  
67Three WishesE5 6a **1
68What God Wants7b 2
69Dead Man WalkingE6 ** 
70King RatE5 6c **1
71Block And Decker6b+ 6
72The Hungerford Massacre7a+ 2
73Nowt for Nearly6c+ 1
74MeridianE6 6b ***1
75Girdle traverse of the left wall
-
E2 5c **6
 Backwater Buttress 
77The Black BottomE1  
78The Missing LinkHVS  
79Hoodlum Priest7b **10
80Ventura7b **5
81Pedestal Wall
-
E1 5b *3
82Pedestal CrackHS 4b *9
83Naked7b+ **7
84Wise CrackE3 5c *4
85Featuristic7a *20
86What Do You Want Me To Do With It7a+ *12
87Don't Matter Just Don't Bite It7a+ *8
88Erotic Nightmare7b+ 1
 Kaarst Buttress 
90Wire Wound
-
E2 5c 2
91Crossley Yarns6c *31
92Red Rhinoceros6c *31
93Liang Shan Po7a+ *2
94Palming Pavorotti's Peach7a+ 8
95Horny6c 3
96Soft Option6b+ 15
 The Grotto 
98Shallow Water Sport6c+ *1
99Flood Gates7a 1
100Water Margin7b+ *3
101Revel In Your Time7b+ *2
102Green Lipped Mussels7c **6
 Waterfall Buttress 
104Alien Water KissE6 6b ** 
105Darkness BeckonsE6 6b *** 
106MeggazonesE4 **5
107Slapstick7c 1
108Who's For Tea7a+ 4
109In The Red7b+ 1
110Crash Test Dummy7a+ 6
111Green Carpet6b *20
112Moulin Rouge6c *9
113ShadowlandsE2 5c **12
114The Twilight Zone6b+ 5
115Sunshine
-
HVS 5a 1
 darkness & Light Area 
117DarknessE2 5c  
118Enlightenment
-
E6 6b 2
119Prince of DarknessE5 6a **10
120LightE2 5c **60
121CabaretE1 5b ***26
122NightrideE2 5c **2
 Deliverance Buttress 
124DelivertoadE6 6a **5
125LiberationE5 6b **1
126DeliveranceE5 6b ***19
127RedemptionE5 6a **6
128Unknown PleasuresE5 6b ** 
129DolstoneE4 5c 1
130West Face Route
-
VS 4b *2
 Solstice Wall 
132Burning DaylightE6 6a *2
133SolsticeE5 6a **17
134The Thrivin'E4 6a *12
135Climacteric
-
E5 6a 2
136Ward 107a 6
137Chemistry SetE6 6b 2
138Ocean Heart
-
6c **9
139Mr Trimby's Guinea Pig6c+ 6
140Pillar and Roof Route7b+ 1
 Cave Route Area 
142Ivy GrooveE3 5c *15
143A Squire to Madness
-
E6 6a *1
144A Squire to Madness - Variation StartE6 6a **1
145Comedy of ErrorsE5 6a **9
146Revival7b+ ***48
147Hang onto your ego7c  
148Revitalised7b+ ***4
149DeconstructionE6 6b 4
150Masochism TangoE6 6c **2
151Come Dancing
-
E3 5c 2
152Strictly Ballroom7a *104
153Nothing Lasts Forever7b+ *27
154Strictly Masochism7c+ ***6
155Strictly Cool7c+ ***6
156Huecool8b **12
157Supercool8a+ ***90
158A Grand Day Out7c+ ***3
159Cave Route Left (pre-2012 trad version)7c+ 6c ***18
160Cave Route Left-hand7c+ ***31
161Cave Eliminate7c+ **8
162Cave Route RightE6 6b ***50
163Cave Route (original)
-
A2 ***2
164Defcon 38a ***39
165Last Dog7b *114
166Dogpoint7b+ ***48
167Pierrepoint7c+ ***67
168Pierrepoint original start7c *1
169Diminished Responsibility7c ** 
170Hangman Start7c+ * 
171HangmanE6 6b ***3
172The NooseE7 6c  
173Trubble8a+ *6
174The Inca Trail7c *6
175Well Hung7b ***12
176Gallows Humour7a **23
177Ruth Ellis7c  
178Bite It And Believe It
-
E6 6b **3
179BlissE7 6b ***1
180Through Trip
-
E6  
 Upper Right Wing 
182Lucifer Sam
-
MVS 4b 1
183D.K.
-
VD 2
184Willy Nilly
-
S 1
185Boy WonderVS 4c 1
186David
-
VD 4
187Obtuse Corner
-
S 6
188Ambiguous AreteS 1
189Jonathon
-
VD 2
190Walnut Scoop
-
MVS 4b *3
191December Dodos
-
S 1
192Gates
-
S 3
193Faked Cards
-
VS 4c 2
194The JokerVS 4c 2
195The Knave
-
HVS 5a 2
196The JugglerHVS 5a 4
197Fingers
-
S *9
198Cat Was WrongHS 1
199Pinnacle CrackD *1
200Sarcasm
-
S 9
201Jenny Spinner
-
MVS 4b 2
202Two Flake Climb
-
HS 4a 3
203Little Flake Climb
-
VS 4c *3
204DisappointmentHVS 5a 1
205Bogside
-
HVS 5a 1
206TychoVS 4c 1
207S.G.B.
-
MS 2
208The Corner
-
S 2
209The WallHS 1
 Waterfalls 
211Gordale Scar Waterfall (Summer)1 31
212Gordale Waterfall Right1 **16
 Winter Climbs 
214Gordale waterfall
-
III 7
 Unsorted 
216Bite it and Believe it, Suck it and SeeE6 6b 1

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