Climbs 250
Rocktype Limestone

Concentrating hard on Supercool © Kevin Avery

Crag features

The gaping mouth of Gordale is a sight to leave most climbers awestruck on first aquaintance. The combination of its narrowing overhanging walls and the constant drone of the wind and waterfall make it a place where only familiarity tempers the apprehension. However, once you are acquainted with the place, the climbing experience is easily equal to its more popular counterparts at Kilnsey and Malham, in fact many will find it an even more compelling place to climb be it on a gripping ascent of an adventurous traditional line or doing battle with one of its huge, sustained, forearm-bursting and rope-stretching sport pitches.

Approach notes

One of the biggest problems at Gordale is the ever-present danger of rockfall. More often than not rockfall is natural erosion or caused by sheep but that may not stop people blaming climbers. There is little we can do about this but we can make sure that, whenever we do climb here, we take the greatest of care not to dislodge rock onto walkers below. Be very aware that any falling rock could be fatal for those below and even a small incident may result in a total climbing ban here.

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Guidebooks

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
More info
It is amazing, a good walk. It is very difficult to climb but my dad mum, and me got my 6 year old sister and my 75 year old granny up there so it can't be that bad!
ryony nicholson - 19/Oct/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Upper Left Wing
2 The Greaser
-
HS 4a 4
3 Juggy Corner D 6
4 Grey Crack MVS 4b 5
5 Dinner Crack S 4
6 Old Rake M 3
7 The Crescent S 3
8 Slanting Scoop
-
VD 5
9 Sheep's Crack HVS 5a 1
10 Keyhole Ridge
-
HS 4a * 7
11 Black Dog HS 4b * 2
12 Sheep's Groove VS 4c 3
13 Tufted Duck
-
E2 5c ** 1
  Lower Left Wing
15 Katydid
-
HS 4b * 4
16 Stingo VS 5a 1
17 The Riddler
-
VS 4c * 4
18 The Spinner HVS 6a 1
19 Tunnel Vision E4 6a * 2
20 Nonsuch E2 5c 1
21 The Bulger
-
HVS 5a 4
22 Deception S 10
23 Parallel Cracks
-
HS 4a 1
24 The Eliminate VS 4c ** 34
25 Tiptoe
-
VS 4c * 18
26 Black Knight HVS 5a 4
27 Overhanging Flake
-
HVS 5a 10
28 Blat
-
HVS 5c 2
29 The Gaffer
-
VS 5a 1
30 Narrowing Crack VS 4c * 2
31 Hang the Joker E2 5c * 1
32 Paradise Street
-
HS 4b * 7
33 Corner Tree Climb
-
VD 5
34 Hidden Corner S 2
35 The Norper E1 5b4b 3
36 Court Jester
-
E2 5c ** 10
37 The Lyncher
-
E2 5c *** 11
38 yark
-
E1 5b ** 8
39 Bushmaster
-
VS 4c 3
40 The Comeback VS 4c * 2
41 King Tut VS 1
  Face Route Area
43 Promises, Promises 6a * 56
44 Special Needs E4 5c 1
45 I'm Forever Threatening 6c * 56
46 Nothing to Declare E5 6a ** 15
47 Decree Nisi E6 6b **  
48 Nothing to Prepare E5 6a * 2
49 A New Underground E6 6a *  
50 Concrete Jungle E6 6b ** 5
51 The Cement Garden (Fully bolted) 7c *** 5
52 The Cement Garden(Pre 2015) E6 6c *** 7
53 The Perfect Mirage 8a *** 3
54 Mirage 8a *** 7
55 Face Route E3 6a *** 153
56 Living Dead Extensions E5 6a ** 4
57 Mossdale Trip E6 6a ** 5
58 Sweet Hereafter E7 6c  
59 Jenny Wren E5 6a * 28
  Rebel Area
61 Revolt E5 6b ** 4
62 Rebel E5 6b *** 11
63 The Cause E5 6b ** 5
64 The Good, The Bad And The Ugly E7 6b *** 1
65 The Unforgiven E6 6b **  
66 What Grot Got E8 6c  
67 Three Wishes E5 6a ** 1
68 What God Wants 7b 2
69 Dead Man Walking E6 **  
70 King Rat E5 6c ** 1
71 Block And Decker 6b+ 6
72 The Hungerford Massacre 7a+ 2
73 Nowt for Nearly 6c+ 1
74 Meridian E6 6b *** 1
75 Girdle traverse of the left wall
-
E2 5c ** 6
  Backwater Buttress
77 The Black Bottom E1  
78 The Missing Link HVS  
79 Hoodlum Priest 7b ** 9
80 Ventura 7b ** 5
81 Pedestal Wall
-
E1 5b * 3
82 Pedestal Crack HS 4b * 9
83 Naked 7b+ ** 7
84 Wise Crack E3 5c * 4
85 Featuristic 7a * 21
86 What Do You Want Me To Do With It 7a+ * 12
87 Don't Matter Just Don't Bite It 7a+ * 8
88 Erotic Nightmare 7b+ 1
  Kaarst Buttress
90 Wire Wound
-
E2 5c 2
91 Crossley Yarns 6c * 32
92 Red Rhinoceros 6c * 32
93 Liang Shan Po 7a+ * 2
94 Palming Pavorotti's Peach 7a+ 8
95 Horny 6c 3
96 Soft Option 6b+ 15
  The Grotto
98 Shallow Water Sport 6c+ * 1
99 Flood Gates 7a 1
100 Water Margin 7b+ * 3
101 Revel In Your Time 7b+ * 2
102 Green Lipped Mussels 7c ** 6
  Waterfall Buttress
104 Alien Water Kiss E6 6b **  
105 Darkness Beckons E6 6b ***  
106 Meggazones E4 ** 5
107 Slapstick 7c 1
108 Who's For Tea 7a+ 4
109 In The Red 7b+ 1
110 Crash Test Dummy 7a+ 6
111 Green Carpet 6b * 21
112 Moulin Rouge 6c * 9
113 Shadowlands E2 5c ** 13
114 The Twilight Zone 6b+ 5
115 Sunshine
-
HVS 5a 1
  darkness & Light Area
117 Darkness E2 5c  
118 Enlightenment
-
E6 6b 2
119 Prince of Darkness E5 6a ** 10
120 Light E2 5c ** 63
121 Cabaret E1 5b *** 35
122 Nightride E2 5c ** 2
  Deliverance Buttress
124 Delivertoad E6 6a ** 6
125 Liberation E5 6b ** 1
126 Deliverance E5 6b *** 24
127 Redemption E5 6a ** 7
128 Unknown Pleasures E5 6b **  
129 Dolstone E4 5c 1
130 West Face Route
-
VS 4b * 3
  Solstice Wall
132 Burning Daylight E6 6a * 2
133 Solstice E5 6a ** 18
134 The Thrivin' E4 6a * 13
135 Climacteric
-
E5 6a 2
136 Ward 10 7a 6
137 Chemistry Set E6 6b 2
138 Ocean Heart
-
6c ** 9
139 Mr Trimby's Guinea Pig 6c+ 6
140 Pillar and Roof Route 7b+ 1
  Cave Route Area
142 Ivy Groove E3 5c * 16
143 A Squire to Madness
-
E6 6a * 1
144 A Squire to Madness - Variation Start E6 6a ** 1
145 Comedy of Errors E5 6a ** 10
146 Revival 7b+ *** 40
147 Hang onto your ego 7c  
148 Revitalised 7b+ *** 5
149 Deconstruction E6 6b 4
150 Masochism Tango E6 6c ** 2
151 Come Dancing
-
E3 5c 2
152 Strictly Ballroom 7a * 116
153 Nothing Lasts Forever 7b+ * 28
154 Strictly Masochism 7c+ *** 7
155 Strictly Cool 7c+ *** 6
156 Huecool 8b ** 9
157 Huecooler 8b *** 1
158 Supercool 8a+ *** 98
159 A Grand Day Out 7c+ *** 2
160 Cave Route Left (pre-2012 trad version) 7c+ 6c *** 18
161 Cave Route Left-hand 7c+ *** 34
162 Cave Eliminate 7c+ ** 9
163 Cave Route Right E6 6b *** 52
164 Cave Route (original)
-
A2 *** 8
165 Defcon 3 8a *** 44
166 Last Dog 7b * 128
167 Dogpoint 7b+ *** 61
168 Pierrepoint 7c+ *** 70
169 Pierrepoint original start 7c * 1
170 Last Days 7c ** 1
171 Hangman Start 7c+ *  
172 Hangman E6 6b *** 4
173 The Noose E7 6c  
174 Trubble 8a+ * 7
175 The Inca Trail 7c * 6
176 Well Hung 7b *** 13
177 Gallows Humour 7a ** 22
178 Ruth Ellis 7c  
179 Bite It And Believe It
-
E6 6b ** 3
180 Bite it and Believe it, Suck it and See E6 6b 1
181 Bliss E7 6b *** 2
182 Through Trip
-
E6  
  Upper Right Wing
184 Lucifer Sam
-
MVS 4b 1
185 D.K.
-
VD 2
186 Willy Nilly
-
S 1
187 Boy Wonder VS 4c 1
188 David
-
VD 4
189 Obtuse Corner
-
S 6
190 Ambiguous Arete S 1
191 Jonathon
-
VD 2
192 Walnut Scoop
-
MVS 4b * 3
193 December Dodos
-
S 1
194 Gates
-
S 3
195 Faked Cards
-
VS 4c 2
196 The Joker VS 4c 2
197 The Knave
-
HVS 5a 2
198 The Juggler HVS 5a 4
199 Fingers
-
S * 9
200 Cat Was Wrong HS 1
201 Pinnacle Crack D * 1
202 Sarcasm
-
S 9
203 Jenny Spinner
-
MVS 4b 2
204 Two Flake Climb
-
HS 4a 3
205 Little Flake Climb
-
VS 4c * 3
206 Disappointment HVS 5a 1
207 Bogside
-
HVS 5a 1
208 Tycho VS 4c 1
209 S.G.B.
-
MS 2
210 The Corner
-
S 2
211 The Wall HS 1
  Waterfalls
213 Gordale Scar Waterfall (Summer) 1 34
214 Gordale Waterfall Right 1 ** 18
  Winter Climbs
216 Gordale waterfall
-
III 7
  Unsorted

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