Climbs 237
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces E

Stretched out on Man With A Gun © kevavery

Crag features

One of Yorkshire's 'Big Three' limestone crags (the other two being Gordale and Malham). Mostly higher grade sport climbing but there are some very good trad lines including The Diedre(E2), Central Wall(E4), Deja Vu(E5) and Balas(E5). Classic sport routes include The Directissima(6c), Frankie Comes to Kilnsey(7b+), Dominatrix(7c), Comedy(7c), The Ashes(7c+), Let them Eat Jelly Beans(8a), Urgent Action(8a+), True North(8c) and Northern Lights(9a). Aiding the classic Kilnsey main overhang route is an exciting option for a wet day.

Approach notes

There is some limited parking in laybys at the southern end of the crag. There is a large layby 200m to the north of the cliff.  There is also plenty of roadside parking on the lane leading across the river to Conistone about 400m to the south. FINALLY please do not park opposite or obstruct the farmers gateway.

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Guidebooks

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  South Buttress
2 Elderberry Orchard 3 8
3 Round The Mulberry Bush 3 9
4 Orion's Belt 3 * 24
5 Right Hand Route 3 22
6 Andrex 5c 18
7 Alternative 5a 26
  Directissima Area
9 Southern Softie 7b * 4
10 Peepshow 6b+ 84
11 Sidekick 7a+ * 75
12 Sideshow 7a+ * 107
13 Sideline 7b 15
14 True South 7b+ 4
15 Metal Mickey 8b *  
16 Metal Guru 7c ** 115
17 Last Action Hero 8a *** 14
18 Man With A Gun 7c+ ** 63
19 Action Man (aka Last Man) 8a ** 5
20 Bullet 8a+ * 18
21 Cold Steal 8a *** 38
22 Stolen 8b *** 12
23 Steal The Show 8b *** 4
24 Stolen Time 8b ** 3
25 Halftime 7c+ ** 3
26 The Technician 8a+ ** 2
27 Showtime 8b *** 5
28 Hardy Annual 7a+ * 131
29 Freakshow 8c *** 3
30 Epic Adventures 8c ** 6
31 Mandela Training Traverse 8a+ * 2
32 The Superdirectissima E5 6b ** 32
33 Make Or Break
-
E5 6b *  
34 Jump Leads E6 6b * 1
35 Jump Leads To Wise Blood (aka Jump Leads 2000) E6 6b 1
36 Wise Blood E6 6b *** 4
37 Contrablood E5 6b 1
38 Diminishing Returns 7c 6b * 4
39 Visitation 7b 6b ** 42
40 Visitation/Deja Vu link 7b * 16
41 Another Vu Point 7a+ *** 1
42 Premonition 8b+ ***  
43 Deja Vu E5 6b *** 126
44 Point of Vu E5 6b *** 1
45 Trivial Pursuits E5 6b * 1
46 A New Pursuit E4 6b ** 1
47 Face Value E5 6a ** 124
48 Full Value E5 6b ** 13
49 Contraflow E5 6b * 10
50 C/D E5 6b *** 1
51 The Big Vu E5 6b ** 1
52 The Big C E4 5c * 26
53 Guns in the Sky 8b+ 2
54 Added Value
-
7a+ ** 42
55 The Directissima 6c *** 599
56 Next Direct 7b+ * 1
57 Kilnsey Main Overhang A2 *** 78
58 Mandela 8a+ *** 33
59 Aboriginal Sin 7c+ *  
60 Dreamtime 7c+ *** 15
61 LBW 7a * 10
62 Sticky Wicket 7b * 231
63 Sticky Wicket - The Ashes (link up) 8a ** 16
64 Indian Summer 8b+ *** 4
65 The Ashes 7c+ *** 125
66 Limerace E6 6c 1
67 50 for 5 7b+ * 166
68 50 for 5 - The Ashes (link up) 8a+ 8
69 All Out 8b+ ***  
70 Launch Control
-
f7C *** 2
71 Epic Time 8a+ ** 1
72 Softie's Adventure 8b+ ** 2
  The Bulge Area
74 Original Route E3 6a ** 4
75 Lickerish
-
E5 6a  
76 Brainstorm
-
E1 5b 3
77 Captain Tripps E4 5c ** 7
78 Stumped 7a+ 15
79 Detox 7b+ * 10
80 De-Stumped 7b+ *  
81 Taking the Mick (trad) E5 6a 1
82 Taking the Mick 7a+ ** 54
83 Bird Brain
-
E5 6b 2
84 Comedy 7c *** 385
85 Pantomime 7b+ ** 134
86 Birdmen E5 6b ** 4
87 Scoop De Grace
-
E5 6b *  
88 Rubble E6 6c * 23
89 Jenga 8b+ ***  
90 Nerve Ending 7b * 117
91 Ecstacy 8b *** 16
92 The Bulgelette 6b+ * 174
93 The British Lions
-
E5 6b  
94 The Bulge (aka Let Them Eat Jellybeans) 8a *** 93
95 Travesty 7c+ * 3
96 Tragedy 7c+ ** 23
97 I Ain't No Sponsored Hero 7c ** 14
98 Ground Effect 7b ** 204
99 The Truth Drug 7b+ * 97
100 Last Year's Grade, This Year's Model
-
E5 6b 3
101 Dodger Direct E3 5c ** 63
102 Are t'Full E4 6a 1
103 Floccinaucinihilipilificatious 7b 20
104 I Ain't No Sponsored Jelly Bean (link-up) 8a+ ** 2
  Dihedral Wall Area
106 The Organ Grinder E5 6a 1
107 Witches Brew 7b ** 126
108 Frankie Comes to Kilnsey 7b+ *** 181
109 Balas E5 6b *** 47
110 Sabbath's Theatre 7c ** 2
111 Drenka 8a+ *** 1
112 The Puppeteer 8a ** 5
113 Relax E7 6b ***  
114 China Crisis 7c+ ** 28
115 Solidarity
-
7b+ 12
116 Mr Nice 7c+ ** 33
117 The Jekyll 7c+ ** 29
118 Dihedral Wall E5 6b *** 12
119 No Through Road 6b 18
120 Silk Road 7b * 8
121 Highway 395 6c+ ** 280
122 Open Road 6c ** 254
123 Open Road (original) E4 6a ** 3
124 Unity 7b 1
125 Arch Rival E5 6a * 8
126 Achilles Heel (Original) E4 6b * 34
127 Achilles Heel (retro bolted) 6c+ 35
128 Architrave E4 5c * 3
129 A Road To Nowhere
-
E5 6b 1
130 La Perla
-
E5 6b  
131 No Man's Land
-
E4 6a 1
132 Hazard Country
-
E5 6a 1
133 Dark Stranger 7c+ ** 6
134 A Darker Stranger 8a+ 1
  Optional Extra Area
136 Mystique E3 5c 12
137 New Mystique 6b+ * 289
138 Fatoliti's Cat 6c * 29
139 Conglom Arete 7a * 42
140 Allakazam 6c * 115
141 Quiet Flight (original) 7a ** 13
142 Quiet Flight Direct 7a+ *** 243
143 Air Rage 7c+ * 3
144 Abracadavera E3 5c * 14
145 Perverted Geranium E4 6b ** 4
146 Waiting for the Sun E5 6b * 4
147 Give Me Convenience 7c  
148 Jumpin' and Squeakin' E6 6b *  
149 No More Jumping to Conclusions 7c ** 36
150 Jumping to Conclusions
-
7b 3
151 First Impresions 7c * 5
152 The Alternative Option 7a+ 14
153 The Alternative Extra Option 7a+ ** 219
154 Optional Extra E4 6b 16
155 The Extra Option 7a+ * 8
156 Fit as... E5 6a ** 1
157 Butcher's Dog E4 6a ** 8
  Biological Need Area
159 Trauma Traverse E2 5b 1
160 Innaccessible Gully HVS 5a 2
161 Bird's Nest Crack E1 5b 24
162 Another Clip In The Wall 7a+ 11
163 Picnic On Hanging Rock E5 6b ** 3
164 Exponential Exhaustion E7 6b *** 3
165 Mantissa E5 6b * 4
166 Biological Need 7c *** 135
167 The Yorkshire Ripper 8b *** 9
168 Zero Option 7c+ ** 19
169 Soft Option 8a *** 33
170 Soft-Zero Option 8a ** 8
171 Double Indemnity
-
E6 6b  
172 Massala Martyr 8b * 1
173 Joint Enterprise f7C ** 1
174 A Smarter Martyr 8b 1
175 Exodus E7 6c 2
176 Mistaken Identity E5 7a 2
177 Warlord E2 5c 4
178 Warlord Direct Start
-
E6 6c 1
  Central Wall
180 A May's In Power 7b+ ** 5
181 Peripathetic E5 6b *  
182 Central Wall E4 6a *** 130
183 White Rushin E6 6b *** 2
184 High Octane E6 6b ** 1
185 White Feather E5 6b * 3
186 Claws E5 6a *** 32
187 The Diedre E2 5b *** 145
188 System Of A Down E4 6b ** 2
189 Friends In High Places E4 5c ** 5
190 Worlds In Collision E4 5c ** 26
191 Ken E5 6a 1
192 Ice Spurt Special E6 6b *  
193 Division Of Labour E6 6c **  
  The North Buttress
195 North Buttress Direct
-
A3 ** 3
196 Dominatrix 7c *** 224
197 Exit to Eden 7c+ ** 14
198 Drag Queen 7c+ ** 15
199 Northern Exposure - Part 1 8b+  
200 North Star 9a *** 2
201 Progress 8c+ *** 3
202 Northern Lights 9a *** 8
203 Magnetic North 8c+ ***  
204 Full Tilt 8b * 22
205 True North 8c *** 9
206 Full On Action 8b *  
207 Urgent Action (aka Under the Thumb) 8a+ *** 67
208 The Vanilla Path 8a+ * 2
209 Vanilla-Thumb 8a+ ** 1
210 The Thumb 8a *** 61
211 They Brush Me 8a+ *  
  WYSIWYG area
213 WYSIWYG 7b+ ** 223
214 Over The Thumb 8a *** 5
215 Complete Control 8a ** 14
216 Heresy E6 6c  
217 Nisus E6 6b ** 2
218 The Perfect Storm 7c+ ** 6
219 Dead Calm 7c+ *** 74
220 The Overlap E5 6b *** 8
  Subculture Area
222 Crank Stroke Groove E5 6b * 6
223 Dr Crimp 8b+ *** 1
224 Rictus 7b * 11
225 Rictus (retro bolted)
-
7b * 2
226 Suigeneris 7c 2
227 The Last Gasp Finish 7b * 70
228 Slab Culture 7b+ * 127
229 Subculture 8a ** 93
230 Le Lapin 8a * 22
231 Myra Hindley 7c * 60
232 Little Ernie 7c 6b ** 15
233 Little Ernie Direct Start E8 6c  
234 Private Practice 8a+ * 8
235 Grooved Arete 8a+ *** 46
236 La Connection 8b * 3
237 La False Connection 8b *** 2
238 The Quick Fixe 8b *** 6
239 Dalliance 8b+ *** 3
240 Brief Encounter 8b * 2
241 More Rhubarb Faster 7c+ * 5
242 Smooth Torquer 7a+ * 162
243 Fit Of Peak 7c * 4
244 Downright Theft E3 6a 4
245 Prying Eyes E1 5b 16
246 New Horizon E3 5c 4
247 Peeping Tom HVS 5a 3
  Unsorted Climbs

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