Climbs 232
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces E

Stretched out on Man With A Gun © kevavery

Crag features

One of Yorkshire's 'Big Three' limestone crags (the other two being Gordale and Malham). Mostly higher grade sport climbing but there are some very good trad lines including The Diedre(E2), Central Wall(E4), Deja Vu(E5) and Balas(E5). Classic sport routes include The Directissima(6c), Frankie Comes to Kilnsey(7b+), Dominatrix(7c), Comedy(7c), The Ashes(7c+), Let them Eat Jelly Beans(8a), Urgent Action(8a+), True North(8c) and Northern Lights(9a). Aiding the classic Kilnsey main overhang route is an exciting option for a wet day.

Approach notes

There is some limited parking in laybys at the southern end of the crag. There is a large layby 200m to the north of the cliff.  There is also plenty of roadside parking on the lane leading across the river to Conistone about 400m to the south. FINALLY please do not park opposite or obstruct the farmers gateway.

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Guidebooks

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 South Buttress 
2Elderberry Orchard3 8
3Round The Mulberry Bush3 8
4Orion's Belt3 *23
5Right Hand Route3 21
6Andrex5c 18
7Alternative5a 25
 Directissima Area 
9Southern Softie7b *1
10Peepshow6b+ 82
11Sidekick7a+ *65
12Sideshow7a+ *96
13Sideline7b 14
14True South7b+ 4
15Metal Mickey8b * 
16Metal Guru7c **108
17Last Action Hero8a ***10
18Man With A Gun7c+ **45
19Action Man (aka Last Man)8a **1
20Bullet8a+ *15
21Cold Steal8a ***31
22Stolen8b ***12
23Steal The Show8b *** 
24Stolen Time8b ** 
25Halftime7c+ **1
26The Technician8a+ **2
27Showtime8b ***1
28Hardy Annual7a+ *121
29Freakshow8c ***2
30Epic Adventures8c ** 
31Mandela Training Traverse8a+ *2
32The SuperdirectissimaE5 6b **26
33Make Or Break
-
E5 6b * 
34Jump LeadsE6 6b *1
35Jump Leads To Wise Blood (aka Jump Leads 2000)E6 6b 1
36Wise BloodE6 6b ***4
37ContrabloodE5 6b 1
38Diminishing Returns7c 6b *3
39Visitation7b 6b **42
40Vissy Vu (Visitation/Deja Vu link)7b *14
41Another Vu Point7a+ ***1
42Premonition8b+ *** 
43Deja VuE5 6b ***96
44Point of VuE5 6b ***1
45Trivial PursuitsE5 6b *1
46A New PursuitE4 6b **1
47Face ValueE5 6a **119
48Full ValueE5 6b **13
49ContraflowE5 6b *10
50C/DE5 6b ***1
51The Big VuE5 6b **1
52The Big CE4 5c *25
53Guns in the Sky8b+ 2
54Added Value
-
7a+ **34
55The Directissima6c ***568
56Next Direct7b+ * 
57Kilnsey Main OverhangA2 ***56
58Mandela8a+ ***33
59Aboriginal Sin7c+ * 
60Dreamtime7c+ ***14
61LBW7a *10
62Sticky Wicket7b *209
63Sticky Wicket - The Ashes (link up)8a **12
64Indian Summer8b+ ***4
65The Ashes7c+ ***118
66LimeraceE6 6c 1
6750 for 57b+ *153
6850 for 5 - The Ashes (link up)8a+ 4
69All Out8b+ *** 
70Launch Control
-
f7C ***1
 The Bulge Area 
72Original RouteE3 6a **4
73Lickerish
-
E5 6a  
74Brainstorm
-
E1 5b 3
75Captain TrippsE4 5c **7
76Stumped7a+ 5
77Detox7b+ *10
78De-Stumped7b+ * 
79Taking the Mick (trad)E5 6a 1
80Taking the Mick7a+ **49
81Bird Brain
-
E5 6b 2
82Comedy7c ***367
83Pantomime7b+ **132
84BirdmenE5 6b **4
85Scoop De Grace
-
E5 6b * 
86RubbleE6 6c *18
87Jenga8b+ *** 
88Nerve Ending7b *116
89Ecstacy8b ***13
90The Bulgelette6b+ *170
91The British Lions
-
E5 6b  
92The Bulge (aka Let Them Eat Jellybeans)8a ***67
93Travesty7c+ *3
94Tragedy7c+ **20
95I Ain't No Sponsored Hero7c **11
96Ground Effect7b **194
97The Truth Drug7b+ *85
98Last Year's Grade, This Year's Model
-
E5 6b 2
99Dodger DirectE3 5c **58
100Are t'FullE4 6a 1
101Floccinaucinihilipilificatious7b 20
 Dihedral Wall Area 
103The Organ GrinderE5 6a 1
104Witches Brew7b **116
105Frankie Comes to Kilnsey7b+ ***168
106BalasE5 6b ***41
107Sabbath's Theatre7c **2
108Drenka8a+ ***1
109The Puppeteer8a **5
110RelaxE7 6b *** 
111China Crisis7c+ **22
112Solidarity
-
7b+ 11
113Mr Nice7c+ **21
114The Jekyll7c+ **29
115Dihedral WallE5 6b ***11
116No Through Road6b 17
117Silk Road7b *8
118Highway 3956c+ **269
119Open Road6c **243
120Open Road (original)E4 6a **2
121Unity7b 1
122Arch RivalE5 6a *8
123Achilles Heel (Original)E4 6b *34
124Achilles Heel (retro bolted)6c+ 21
125ArchitraveE4 5c *3
126A Road To Nowhere
-
E5 6b 1
127La Perla
-
E5 6b  
128No Man's Land
-
E4 6a 1
129Hazard Country
-
E5 6a 1
 Optional Extra Area 
131MystiqueE3 5c 10
132New Mystique6b+ *257
133Fatoliti's Cat6c *27
134Conglom Arete7a *37
135Allakazam6c *89
136Quiet Flight (original)7a **10
137Quiet Flight Direct7a+ ***222
138Air Rage7c+ *3
139AbracadaveraE3 5c *13
140Perverted GeraniumE4 6b **4
141Waiting for the SunE5 6b *4
142Give Me Convenience7c  
143Jumpin' and Squeakin'E6 6b * 
144No More Jumping to Conclusions7c **32
145Jumping to Conclusions
-
7b 3
146First Impresions7c *5
147The Alternative Option7a+ 14
148The Alternative Extra Option7a+ **208
149Optional ExtraE4 6b 15
150The Extra Option7a+ *8
151Fit as...E5 6a **1
152Butcher's DogE4 6a **8
 Biological Need Area 
154Trauma TraverseE2 5b 1
155Innaccessible GullyHVS 5a 2
156Bird's Nest CrackE1 5b 24
157Another Clip In The Wall7a+ 11
158Picnic On Hanging RockE5 6b **3
159Exponential ExhaustionE7 6b ***3
160MantissaE5 6b *3
161Biological Need7c ***131
162The Yorkshire Ripper8b ***3
163Zero Option7c+ **19
164Soft Option8a ***30
165Soft-Zero Option8a **8
166Double Indemnity
-
E6 6b  
167Massala Martyr8b *1
168Joint Enterprisef7C **1
169A Smarter Martyr8b 1
170ExodusE7 6c 2
171Mistaken IdentityE5 7a 2
172WarlordE2 5c 4
173Warlord Direct Start
-
E6 6c 1
 Central Wall 
175A May's In Power7b+ **1
176PeripatheticE5 6b * 
177Central WallE4 6a ***105
178White RushinE6 6b ***2
179High OctaneE6 6b **1
180White FeatherE5 6b *1
181ClawsE5 6a ***25
182The DiedreE2 5b ***140
183System Of A DownE4 6b **2
184Friends In High PlacesE4 5c **5
185Worlds In CollisionE4 5c **19
186KenE5 6a 1
187Ice Spurt SpecialE6 6b * 
188Division Of LabourE6 6c ** 
 The North Buttress 
190North Buttress Direct
-
A3 **3
191Dominatrix7c ***155
192Exit to Eden7c+ **11
193Drag Queen7c+ **13
194Northern Exposure - Part 18b+  
195North Star9a *** 
196Progress8c+ ***3
197Northern Lights9a *** 
198Magnetic North8c+ *** 
199Full Tilt8b *16
200True North8c ***9
201Full On Action8b * 
202Urgent Action (aka Under the Thumb)8a+ ***66
203The Vanilla Path8a+ *2
204Vanilla-Thumb8a+ **1
205The Thumb8a ***59
206They Brush Me8a+ * 
 WYSIWYG area 
208WYSIWYG7b+ **210
209Over The Thumb8a ***4
210Complete Control8a **14
211HeresyE6 6c  
212NisusE6 6b **2
213The Perfect Storm7c+ **3
214Dead Calm7c+ ***66
215The OverlapE5 6b ***5
 Subculture Area 
217Crank Stroke GrooveE5 6b *5
218Dr Crimp8b+ ***1
219Rictus7b *10
220Rictus (retro bolted)
-
7b *2
221Suigeneris7c 2
222The Last Gasp Finish7b *57
223Slab Culture7b+ *109
224Subculture8a **80
225Le Lapin8a *21
226Myra Hindley7c *47
227Little Ernie7c 6b **12
228Little Ernie Direct StartE8 6c  
229Private Practice8a+ *8
230Grooved Arete8a+ ***46
231La Connection8b *3
232La False Connection8b ***2
233The Quick Fixe8b ***3
234Dalliance8b+ ***3
235Brief Encounter8b *2
236More Rhubarb Faster7c+ *5
237Smooth Torquer7a+ *142
238Fit Of Peak7c *4
239Downright TheftE3 6a 4
240Prying EyesE1 5b 16
241New HorizonE3 5c 4
242Peeping TomHVS 5a 3
 Unsorted Climbs 

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