Climbs 233
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces E

Stretched out on Man With A Gun © kevavery

Crag features

One of Yorkshire's 'Big Three' limestone crags (the other two being Gordale and Malham). Mostly higher grade sport climbing but there are some very good trad lines including The Diedre(E2), Central Wall(E4), Deja Vu(E5) and Balas(E5). Classic sport routes include The Directissima(6c), Frankie Comes to Kilnsey(7b+), Dominatrix(7c), Comedy(7c), The Ashes(7c+), Let them Eat Jelly Beans(8a), Urgent Action(8a+), True North(8c) and Northern Lights(9a). Aiding the classic Kilnsey main overhang route is an exciting option for a wet day.

Approach notes

There is some limited parking in laybys at the southern end of the crag. There is a large layby 200m to the north of the cliff.  There is also plenty of roadside parking on the lane leading across the river to Conistone about 400m to the south. FINALLY please do not park opposite or obstruct the farmers gateway.

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Guidebooks

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  South Buttress
2 Elderberry Orchard 3 8
3 Round The Mulberry Bush 3 9
4 Orion's Belt 3 * 24
5 Right Hand Route 3 22
6 Andrex 5c 18
7 Alternative 5a 26
  Directissima Area
9 Southern Softie 7b * 1
10 Peepshow 6b+ 83
11 Sidekick 7a+ * 69
12 Sideshow 7a+ * 103
13 Sideline 7b 15
14 True South 7b+ 4
15 Metal Mickey 8b *  
16 Metal Guru 7c ** 108
17 Last Action Hero 8a *** 10
18 Man With A Gun 7c+ ** 46
19 Action Man (aka Last Man) 8a ** 1
20 Bullet 8a+ * 15
21 Cold Steal 8a *** 31
22 Stolen 8b *** 12
23 Steal The Show 8b ***  
24 Stolen Time 8b **  
25 Halftime 7c+ ** 1
26 The Technician 8a+ ** 2
27 Showtime 8b *** 1
28 Hardy Annual 7a+ * 128
29 Freakshow 8c *** 2
30 Epic Adventures 8c ** 1
31 Mandela Training Traverse 8a+ * 2
32 The Superdirectissima E5 6b ** 27
33 Make Or Break
-
E5 6b *  
34 Jump Leads E6 6b * 1
35 Jump Leads To Wise Blood (aka Jump Leads 2000) E6 6b 1
36 Wise Blood E6 6b *** 4
37 Contrablood E5 6b 1
38 Diminishing Returns 7c 6b * 4
39 Visitation 7b 6b ** 42
40 Vissy Vu (Visitation/Deja Vu link) 7b * 15
41 Another Vu Point 7a+ *** 1
42 Premonition 8b+ ***  
43 Deja Vu E5 6b *** 107
44 Point of Vu E5 6b *** 1
45 Trivial Pursuits E5 6b * 1
46 A New Pursuit E4 6b ** 1
47 Face Value E5 6a ** 121
48 Full Value E5 6b ** 13
49 Contraflow E5 6b * 10
50 C/D E5 6b *** 1
51 The Big Vu E5 6b ** 1
52 The Big C E4 5c * 25
53 Guns in the Sky 8b+ 2
54 Added Value
-
7a+ ** 36
55 The Directissima 6c *** 590
56 Next Direct 7b+ *  
57 Kilnsey Main Overhang A2 *** 77
58 Mandela 8a+ *** 33
59 Aboriginal Sin 7c+ *  
60 Dreamtime 7c+ *** 15
61 LBW 7a * 10
62 Sticky Wicket 7b * 215
63 Sticky Wicket - The Ashes (link up) 8a ** 14
64 Indian Summer 8b+ *** 4
65 The Ashes 7c+ *** 125
66 Limerace E6 6c 1
67 50 for 5 7b+ * 157
68 50 for 5 - The Ashes (link up) 8a+ 4
69 All Out 8b+ ***  
70 Launch Control
-
f7C *** 2
  The Bulge Area
72 Original Route E3 6a ** 4
73 Lickerish
-
E5 6a  
74 Brainstorm
-
E1 5b 3
75 Captain Tripps E4 5c ** 7
76 Stumped 7a+ 9
77 Detox 7b+ * 10
78 De-Stumped 7b+ *  
79 Taking the Mick (trad) E5 6a 1
80 Taking the Mick 7a+ ** 54
81 Bird Brain
-
E5 6b 2
82 Comedy 7c *** 374
83 Pantomime 7b+ ** 133
84 Birdmen E5 6b ** 4
85 Scoop De Grace
-
E5 6b *  
86 Rubble E6 6c * 18
87 Jenga 8b+ ***  
88 Nerve Ending 7b * 117
89 Ecstacy 8b *** 13
90 The Bulgelette 6b+ * 173
91 The British Lions
-
E5 6b  
92 The Bulge (aka Let Them Eat Jellybeans) 8a *** 91
93 Travesty 7c+ * 3
94 Tragedy 7c+ ** 23
95 I Ain't No Sponsored Hero 7c ** 12
96 Ground Effect 7b ** 199
97 The Truth Drug 7b+ * 86
98 Last Year's Grade, This Year's Model
-
E5 6b 2
99 Dodger Direct E3 5c ** 58
100 Are t'Full E4 6a 1
101 Floccinaucinihilipilificatious 7b 20
  Dihedral Wall Area
103 The Organ Grinder E5 6a 1
104 Witches Brew 7b ** 117
105 Frankie Comes to Kilnsey 7b+ *** 178
106 Balas E5 6b *** 42
107 Sabbath's Theatre 7c ** 2
108 Drenka 8a+ *** 1
109 The Puppeteer 8a ** 5
110 Relax E7 6b ***  
111 China Crisis 7c+ ** 28
112 Solidarity
-
7b+ 12
113 Mr Nice 7c+ ** 31
114 The Jekyll 7c+ ** 29
115 Dihedral Wall E5 6b *** 11
116 No Through Road 6b 18
117 Silk Road 7b * 8
118 Highway 395 6c+ ** 276
119 Open Road 6c ** 248
120 Open Road (original) E4 6a ** 3
121 Unity 7b 1
122 Arch Rival E5 6a * 8
123 Achilles Heel (Original) E4 6b * 34
124 Achilles Heel (retro bolted) 6c+ 29
125 Architrave E4 5c * 3
126 A Road To Nowhere
-
E5 6b 1
127 La Perla
-
E5 6b  
128 No Man's Land
-
E4 6a 1
129 Hazard Country
-
E5 6a 1
130 Dark Stranger 7c+ ** 2
  Optional Extra Area
132 Mystique E3 5c 10
133 New Mystique 6b+ * 271
134 Fatoliti's Cat 6c * 27
135 Conglom Arete 7a * 39
136 Allakazam 6c * 97
137 Quiet Flight (original) 7a ** 11
138 Quiet Flight Direct 7a+ *** 230
139 Air Rage 7c+ * 3
140 Abracadavera E3 5c * 13
141 Perverted Geranium E4 6b ** 4
142 Waiting for the Sun E5 6b * 4
143 Give Me Convenience 7c  
144 Jumpin' and Squeakin' E6 6b *  
145 No More Jumping to Conclusions 7c ** 32
146 Jumping to Conclusions
-
7b 3
147 First Impresions 7c * 5
148 The Alternative Option 7a+ 14
149 The Alternative Extra Option 7a+ ** 213
150 Optional Extra E4 6b 15
151 The Extra Option 7a+ * 8
152 Fit as... E5 6a ** 1
153 Butcher's Dog E4 6a ** 8
  Biological Need Area
155 Trauma Traverse E2 5b 1
156 Innaccessible Gully HVS 5a 2
157 Bird's Nest Crack E1 5b 24
158 Another Clip In The Wall 7a+ 11
159 Picnic On Hanging Rock E5 6b ** 3
160 Exponential Exhaustion E7 6b *** 3
161 Mantissa E5 6b * 3
162 Biological Need 7c *** 131
163 The Yorkshire Ripper 8b *** 3
164 Zero Option 7c+ ** 19
165 Soft Option 8a *** 32
166 Soft-Zero Option 8a ** 8
167 Double Indemnity
-
E6 6b  
168 Massala Martyr 8b * 1
169 Joint Enterprise f7C ** 1
170 A Smarter Martyr 8b 1
171 Exodus E7 6c 2
172 Mistaken Identity E5 7a 2
173 Warlord E2 5c 4
174 Warlord Direct Start
-
E6 6c 1
  Central Wall
176 A May's In Power 7b+ ** 5
177 Peripathetic E5 6b *  
178 Central Wall E4 6a *** 107
179 White Rushin E6 6b *** 2
180 High Octane E6 6b ** 1
181 White Feather E5 6b * 1
182 Claws E5 6a *** 25
183 The Diedre E2 5b *** 141
184 System Of A Down E4 6b ** 2
185 Friends In High Places E4 5c ** 5
186 Worlds In Collision E4 5c ** 21
187 Ken E5 6a 1
188 Ice Spurt Special E6 6b *  
189 Division Of Labour E6 6c **  
  The North Buttress
191 North Buttress Direct
-
A3 ** 3
192 Dominatrix 7c *** 224
193 Exit to Eden 7c+ ** 11
194 Drag Queen 7c+ ** 13
195 Northern Exposure - Part 1 8b+  
196 North Star 9a *** 2
197 Progress 8c+ *** 3
198 Northern Lights 9a *** 8
199 Magnetic North 8c+ ***  
200 Full Tilt 8b * 22
201 True North 8c *** 9
202 Full On Action 8b *  
203 Urgent Action (aka Under the Thumb) 8a+ *** 68
204 The Vanilla Path 8a+ * 2
205 Vanilla-Thumb 8a+ ** 1
206 The Thumb 8a *** 60
207 They Brush Me 8a+ *  
  WYSIWYG area
209 WYSIWYG 7b+ ** 221
210 Over The Thumb 8a *** 5
211 Complete Control 8a ** 14
212 Heresy E6 6c  
213 Nisus E6 6b ** 2
214 The Perfect Storm 7c+ ** 6
215 Dead Calm 7c+ *** 72
216 The Overlap E5 6b *** 5
  Subculture Area
218 Crank Stroke Groove E5 6b * 5
219 Dr Crimp 8b+ *** 1
220 Rictus 7b * 11
221 Rictus (retro bolted)
-
7b * 2
222 Suigeneris 7c 2
223 The Last Gasp Finish 7b * 64
224 Slab Culture 7b+ * 119
225 Subculture 8a ** 91
226 Le Lapin 8a * 22
227 Myra Hindley 7c * 57
228 Little Ernie 7c 6b ** 15
229 Little Ernie Direct Start E8 6c  
230 Private Practice 8a+ * 8
231 Grooved Arete 8a+ *** 46
232 La Connection 8b * 3
233 La False Connection 8b *** 2
234 The Quick Fixe 8b *** 6
235 Dalliance 8b+ *** 3
236 Brief Encounter 8b * 2
237 More Rhubarb Faster 7c+ * 5
238 Smooth Torquer 7a+ * 155
239 Fit Of Peak 7c * 4
240 Downright Theft E3 6a 4
241 Prying Eyes E1 5b 16
242 New Horizon E3 5c 4
243 Peeping Tom HVS 5a 3
  Unsorted Climbs

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