Climbs 270
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces E

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Stretched out on Man With A Gun © kevavery

Crag features

One of Yorkshire's 'Big Three' limestone crags (the other two being Gordale and Malham). Mostly higher grade sport climbing but there are some very good trad lines including The Diedre(E2), Central Wall(E4), Deja Vu(E5) and Balas(E5). Classic sport routes include The Directissima(6c), Frankie Comes to Kilnsey(7b+), Dominatrix(7c), Comedy(7c), The Ashes(7c+), Let them Eat Jelly Beans(8a), Urgent Action(8a+), True North(8c) and Northern Lights(9a). Aiding the classic Kilnsey main overhang route is an exciting option for a wet day.

Approach notes

There is some limited parking in laybys at the southern end of the crag. There is a large layby 200m to the north of the cliff.  There is also plenty of roadside parking on the lane leading across the river to Conistone about 400m to the south. FINALLY please do not park opposite or obstruct the farmers gateway.

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Guidebooks

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  South Buttress
2 Elderberry Orchard 3a 8
3 Round The Mulberry Bush 3a 10
4 Orion's Belt 3a * 25
5 Right Hand Route 3a 22
6 Andrex 5c 21
7 Alternative 5a 28
  Directissima Area
9 Southern Softie 7b * 5
10 Softie's Adventure 8b+ ** 1
11 The Pirate 8c *** 1
12 Peepshow 6b+ 95
13 Sidekick 7a+ * 92
14 Sideshow 7a+ * 123
15 Sideline 7b 18
16 True South 7b+ 4
17 Metal Mickey 8b *  
18 Metal Guru 7c ** 128
19 Last Action Hero 8a *** 14
20 Man With A Gun 7c+ ** 64
21 Action Man (aka Last Man) 8a ** 3
22 Bullet 8a+ * 21
23 Cold Steal 8a *** 38
24 Stolen 8b *** 12
25 Steal The Show 8b *** 1
26 Stolen Time 8b ** 1
27 Halftime 7c+ ** 2
28 The Technician 8a+ ** 2
29 Showtime 8b *** 2
30 Hardy Annual 7a+ * 152
31 Freakshow 8c *** 3
32 Epic Adventures 8c ** 2
33 Epic Time 8a+ ** 4
34 The Superdirectissima E5 6b ** 38
35 Make Or Break
-
E5 6b *  
36 Jump Leads E6 6b * 1
37 Jump Leads To Wise Blood (aka Jump Leads 2000) E6 6b 1
38 Wise Blood E6 6b *** 8
39 Contrablood E5 6b 2
40 Diminishing Returns 7c 6b * 5
41 Visitation 7b 6b ** 52
42 Visitation/Deja Vu link 7b * 26
43 Another Vu Point 7a+ *** 5
44 Premonition 8b+ ***  
45 Deja Vu E5 6b *** 138
46 Point of Vu E5 6b *** 3
47 Trivial Pursuits E5 6b * 4
48 A New Pursuit E4 6b ** 7
49 Face Value E5 6a ** 143
50 Full Value E5 6b ** 14
51 Contraflow E5 6b * 11
52 C/D E5 6b *** 2
53 The Big Vu E5 6b ** 3
54 The Big C E4 5c * 30
55 Guns in the Sky 8b+ 2
56 Added Value
-
7a+ ** 47
57 The Directissima 6c *** 677
58 Next Direct 7b+ * 2
59 Kilnsey Main Overhang A2 *** 61
60 Mandela 8a+ *** 18
61 Dreamtime 7c+ *** 27
62 Wet Dream 7c+ 1
63 LBW 7a * 15
64 Sticky Wicket 7b * 263
65 Sticky Wicket - The Ashes (link up) 8a ** 16
66 Indian Summer 8b+ *** 4
67 The Ashes 7c+ *** 125
68 50 for 5 7b+ * 187
69 50 for 5 - The Ashes (link up) 8a+ 9
70 All Out 8b+ *** 1
71 Aboriginal Sin 7c+ * 4
72 Limerace E6 6c 1
  The Bulge Area
74 Original Route E3 6a ** 5
75 Lickerish
-
E5 6a  
76 Brainstorm
-
E1 5b 5
77 Captain Tripps E4 5c ** 8
78 Stumped 7a+ 25
79 Detox 7b+ * 12
80 De-Stumped 7b+ * 2
81 Taking the Mick (trad) E5 6a 1
82 Taking the Mick 7a+ ** 74
83 Bird Brain
-
E5 6b 2
84 Comedy 7c *** 365
85 Pantomime 7b+ ** 151
86 Birdmen E5 6b ** 5
87 Scoop De Grace
-
E5 6b *  
88 Rubble E6 6c * 25
89 Jenga 8b+ ***  
90 Nerve Ending 7b * 126
91 Ecstacy 8b *** 13
92 The Bulgelette 6b+ * 196
93 The British Lions
-
E5 6b  
94 The Bulge (aka Let Them Eat Jellybeans) 8a *** 110
Climb name Grade
95 Travesty 7c+ * 7
96 Tragedy 7c+ ** 26
97 I Ain't No Sponsored Hero 7c ** 26
98 Ground Effect 7b ** 218
99 The Truth Drug 7b+ * 105
100 Last Year's Grade, This Year's Model
-
E5 6b 3
101 Dodger Direct E3 5c ** 65
102 Are t'Full E4 6a 1
103 Floccinaucinihilipilificatious 7b 21
104 I Ain't No Sponsored Jelly Bean (link-up) 8a+ ** 4
  Dihedral Wall Area
106 The Organ Grinder E5 6a 1
107 Witches Brew 7b ** 134
108 Frankie Comes to Kilnsey 7b+ *** 180
109 Balas E5 6b *** 48
110 Sabbath's Theatre 7c ** 2
111 The Puppeteer 8a ** 7
112 Puppeteasier 7c+ ** 2
113 Dark Stranger 7c+ ** 13
114 A Darker Stranger 8a+ 1
115 Drenka 8a+ *** 1
116 The Puppet Crisis 7c ** 2
117 Dark Crisis 7c * 1
118 Relax E7 6b *** 1
119 More Relaxed E7 6b *** 1
120 Brexit Crisis 8a ** 7
121 China Crisis 7c+ ** 30
122 Solidarity
-
7b+ 13
123 Mr Nice 7c+ ** 29
124 The Jekyll 7c+ ** 29
125 Dihedral Wall E5 6b *** 13
126 The Great Dihedral Wall Extravaganza E6 6b *** 1
127 No Through Road 6b 20
128 Silk Road 7b * 10
129 Silk Road 2.0 7b+ *** 1
130 Highway 395 6c+ ** 286
131 Open Road 6c ** 265
132 Open Road (original) E4 6a ** 5
133 Alter Ego LH 7a+ 2
134 Alter Ego RH 7a+ 2
135 Arch Rival E5 6a * 12
136 Achilles Heel (Original) E4 6b * 34
137 Achilles Heel (retro bolted) 6c+ 73
138 Architrave E4 5c * 4
139 A Road To Nowhere
-
E5 6b 2
140 La Perla
-
E5 6b  
141 No Man's Land
-
E4 6a 1
142 Hazard Country
-
E5 6a 2
143 Crisis, What Crisis. * 8a ** 2
  Optional Extra Area
145 Mystique E3 5c 15
146 New Mystique 6b+ * 355
147 Fatoliti's Cat 6c * 40
148 Conglom Arete 7a * 53
149 Allakazam 6c * 169
150 Quiet Flight (original) 7a ** 15
151 Quiet Flight Direct 7a+ *** 291
152 Air Rage 7c+ * 3
153 Abracadavera E3 5c * 16
154 Perverted Geranium E4 6b ** 4
155 Waiting for the Sun E5 6b * 4
156 Give Me Convenience 7c 1
157 Jumpin' and Squeakin' E6 6b *  
158 No More Jumping to Conclusions 7c ** 43
159 Jumping to Conclusions
-
7b 3
160 First Impresions 7c * 7
161 The Alternative Option 7a+ 20
162 The Alternative Extra Option 7a+ ** 251
163 Optional Extra E4 6b 17
164 The Extra Option 7a+ * 10
165 Fit as... E5 6a ** 1
166 Butcher's Dog E4 6a ** 9
  Biological Need Area
168 Trauma Traverse E2 5b 1
169 Innaccessible Gully HVS 5a 2
170 Bird's Nest Crack E1 5b 24
171 Another Clip In The Wall 7a+ 11
172 Picnic On Hanging Rock E5 6b ** 4
173 Exponential Exhaustion E7 6b *** 3
174 Mantissa E5 6b * 4
175 Biological Need 7c *** 141
176 The Yorkshire Ripper 8b *** 2
177 Zero Option 7c+ ** 23
178 Soft Option 8a *** 34
179 Soft-Zero Option 8a ** 11
180 Double Indemnity
-
E6 6b  
181 Massala Martyr 8b * 2
182 Joint Enterprise f7C ** 1
183 A Smarter Martyr 8b 1
184 Exodus E7 6c 2
185 Mistaken Identity E5 7a 2
186 Warlord E2 5c 4
187 Warlord Direct Start
-
E6 6c 1
Climb name Grade
  Central Wall
189 A May's In Power 7b+ ** 5
190 Peripathetic E5 6b *  
191 Central Wall E4 6a *** 129
192 White Rushin E6 6b *** 2
193 High Octane E6 6b ** 1
194 White Octaine E6 6b 1
195 White Feather E5 6b * 3
196 Claws E5 6a *** 30
197 The Diedre E2 5b *** 140
198 System Of A Down E4 6b ** 2
199 Friends In High Places E4 5c ** 6
200 Worlds In Collision E4 5c ** 24
201 Ken E5 6a 1
202 Ice Spurt Special E6 6b *  
203 Division Of Labour E6 6c **  
  The North Buttress
205 North Buttress Direct
-
A3 ** 3
206 Dominatrix 7c *** 204
207 Exit to Eden 7c+ ** 12
208 Drag Queen 7c+ ** 14
209 Northern Exposure - Part 1 8b+ 1
210 North Star 9a ***  
211 Progress 8c+ *** 5
212 Northern Lights 9a ***  
213 Magnetic North 8c+ ***  
214 Full Tilt 8b * 21
215 True North 8c *** 10
216 Full On Action 8b *  
217 Urgent Action (aka Under the Thumb) 8a+ *** 63
218 The Vanilla Path 8a+ * 3
219 Vanilla-Thumb 8a+ ** 1
220 The Thumb 8a *** 55
221 They Brush Me 8a+ * 1
  WYSIWYG area
223 WYSIWYG 7b+ ** 279
224 Over The Thumb 8a *** 7
225 Complete Control 8a ** 25
226 Heresy E6 6c  
227 Nisus E6 6b ** 2
228 The Perfect Storm 7c+ ** 11
229 Dead Calm 7c+ *** 79
230 The Overlap E5 6b *** 6
  Subculture Area
232 Crank Stroke Groove E5 6b * 6
233 Dr Crimp 8b+ *** 1
234 Rictus 7b * 16
235 Suigeneris (aka Chris's Route) 7c 2
236 The Last Gasp Finish 7b * 94
237 Slab Culture 7b+ * 158
238 Subculture 8a ** 111
239 Le Lapin 8a * 27
240 Myra Hindley (aka Big Vern) 7c * 81
241 Little Ernie 7c 6b ** 16
242 Little Ernie Direct Start E8 6c  
243 Private Practice 8a+ * 9
244 Grooved Arete 8a+ *** 43
245 La Connection 8b * 4
246 La False Connection 8b *** 3
247 The Quick Fixe 8b *** 4
248 Dalliance 8b+ *** 6
249 Brief Encounter 8b * 3
250 More Rhubarb Faster 7c+ * 8
251 Smooth Torquer 7a+ * 195
252 Fit Of Peak 7c * 4
253 Downright Theft E3 6a 5
254 Prying Eyes E1 5b 19
255 New Horizon E3 5c 4
256 Peeping Tom HVS 5a 4
  Bouldering
258 Launch Control
-
f7C *** 16
259 Mandela Training Traverse 8a+ * 6
260 Leech's non-eliminate f6C 5
261 Leach's Problem f7B 15
262 Pinch Alternative
-
f7C 2
263 The Edge Problem
-
f7C 5
264 Primitive Notion f8A+ ** 2
265 Gleaming Pinch f7C+ ** 4
266 Suttys Pinch f7C+ 4
267 Metal Prow f7B 6
268 Controlled V11 **  
269 Last Stand of a Free Man
-
V13  
270 Manadala extension
-
V11 2
271 Diluvian
-
V13 1
272 The Gleaming Path
-
V11  
273 Emotionless V11  
274 Pinch to pinch
-
V9  
275 Boulder C * V6 3
276 Boulder A * V4 2
277 Boulder B * V5+ 2
278 End Game * V13  
279 Antediluvian * V13  
280 Notionless * V11 1
281 Pocket Pinch * V8 2
  Unsorted Climbs
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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