Climbs 282
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces E

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Stretched out on Man With A Gun © kevavery

Crag features

One of Yorkshire's 'Big Three' limestone crags (the other two being Gordale and Malham). Mostly higher grade sport climbing but there are some very good trad lines including The Diedre(E2), Central Wall(E4), Deja Vu(E5) and Balas(E5). Classic sport routes include The Directissima(6c), Frankie Comes to Kilnsey(7b+), Dominatrix(7c), Comedy(7c), The Ashes(7c+), Let them Eat Jelly Beans(8a), Urgent Action(8a+), True North(8c) and Northern Lights(9a). Aiding the classic Kilnsey main overhang route is an exciting option for a wet day.

Approach notes

There is some limited parking in laybys at the southern end of the crag. There is a large layby 200m to the north of the cliff.  There is also plenty of roadside parking on the lane leading across the river to Conistone about 400m to the south. FINALLY please do not park opposite or obstruct the farmers gateway.

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Guidebooks

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  South Buttress
2 Elderberry Orchard 3a 8
3 Round The Mulberry Bush 3a 11
4 Orion's Belt 3a * 26
5 Right Hand Route 3a 23
6 Andrex 5c 21
7 Alternative 5a 28
  Directissima Area
9 Southern Softie 7b * 5
10 Softie's Adventure 8b+ ** 1
11 The Pirate 8c *** 1
12 Peepshow 6b+ 95
13 Sidekick 7a+ * 100
14 Sideshow 7a+ * 134
15 Sideline 7b 22
16 True South 7b+ 5
17 Metal Mickey 8b *  
18 Metal Guru 7c ** 136
19 Last Action Hero 8a *** 15
20 Man With A Gun 7c+ ** 67
21 Action Man (aka Last Man) 8a ** 3
22 Bullet 8a+ * 22
23 Cold Steal 8a *** 41
24 Stolen 8b *** 12
25 Steal The Show 8b *** 1
26 Stolen Time 8b ** 1
27 Halftime 7c+ ** 2
28 The Technician 8a+ ** 2
29 Showtime 8b *** 2
30 Hardy Annual 7a+ * 156
31 Freakshow 8c *** 3
32 Epic Adventures 8c ** 2
33 Epic Time 8a+ ** 4
34 The Superdirectissima E5 6b ** 38
35 Make Or Break
-
E5 6b *  
36 Jump Leads E6 6b * 1
37 Jump Leads To Wise Blood (aka Jump Leads 2000) E6 6b 1
38 Wise Blood E6 6b *** 8
39 Contrablood E5 6b 2
40 Diminishing Returns 7c 6b * 5
41 Visitation 7b 6b ** 52
42 Visitation/Deja Vu link 7b * 27
43 Another Vu Point 7a+ *** 5
44 Premonition 8b+ ***  
45 Deja Vu E5 6b *** 138
46 Point of Vu E5 6b *** 3
47 Trivial Pursuits E5 6b * 4
48 A New Pursuit E4 6b ** 7
49 Face Value E5 6a ** 147
50 Full Value E5 6b ** 14
51 Contraflow E5 6b * 11
52 C/D E5 6b *** 2
53 The Big Vu E5 6b ** 3
54 The Big C E4 5c * 31
55 Guns in the Sky 8b+ 2
56 Added Value
-
7a+ ** 48
57 The Directissima 6c *** 697
58 Next Direct 7b+ * 3
59 Kilnsey Main Overhang A2 *** 62
60 Mandela 8a+ *** 19
61 Dreamtime 7c+ *** 29
62 Wet Dream 7c+ 1
63 LBW 7a * 15
64 Sticky Wicket 7b * 281
65 Sticky Wicket - The Ashes (link up) 8a ** 18
66 Indian Summer 8b+ *** 4
67 The Ashes 7c+ *** 131
68 50 for 5 7b+ * 195
69 50 for 5 - The Ashes (link up) 8a+ 9
70 All Out 8b+ *** 2
71 Aboriginal Sin 7c+ * 6
72 Limerace E6 6c 1
73 Showstopper 8a+ **  
74 Air Sin 7c+ ** 1
75 Dreamtissima * 6c+ *** 3
76 Airshow 7c+ *** 2
  The Bulge Area
78 Original Route E3 6a ** 6
79 Lickerish
-
E5 6a  
80 Brainstorm
-
E1 5b 5
81 Captain Tripps E4 5c ** 8
82 Stumped 7a+ 26
83 Detox 7b+ * 12
84 De-Stumped 7b+ * 2
85 Taking the Mick (trad) E5 6a 1
86 Taking the Mick 7a+ ** 92
87 Bird Brain
-
E5 6b 2
88 Comedy 7c *** 396
89 Pantomime 7b+ ** 160
90 Birdmen E5 6b ** 5
91 Scoop De Grace
-
E5 6b *  
92 Rubble E6 6c * 26
93 Jenga 8b+ ***  
94 Nerve Ending 7b * 129
95 Ecstacy 8b *** 13
96 The Bulgelette 6b+ * 204
97 The British Lions
-
E5 6b  
98 The Bulge (aka Let Them Eat Jellybeans) 8a *** 112
Climb name Grade
99 Travesty 7c+ * 7
100 Tragedy 7c+ ** 27
101 I Ain't No Sponsored Hero 7c ** 37
102 Ground Effect 7b ** 231
103 The Truth Drug 7b+ * 110
104 Last Year's Grade, This Year's Model
-
E5 6b 3
105 Dodger Direct E3 5c ** 66
106 Are t'Full E4 6a 1
107 Floccinaucinihilipilificatious 7b 21
108 I Ain't No Sponsored Jelly Bean (link-up) 8a+ ** 6
109 Cabaret 8a ***  
  Dihedral Wall Area
111 The Organ Grinder E5 6a 1
112 Witches Brew 7b ** 140
113 Frankie Comes to Kilnsey 7b+ *** 198
114 Balas E5 6b *** 49
115 Sabbath's Theatre 7c ** 2
116 The Puppeteer 8a ** 7
117 Puppeteasier 7c+ ** 2
118 Dark Stranger 7c+ ** 17
119 A Darker Stranger 8a+ 1
120 Drenka 8a+ *** 2
121 The Puppet Crisis 7c ** 2
122 Dark Crisis 7c * 1
123 Relax E7 6b *** 1
124 More Relaxed E7 6b *** 1
125 Brexit Crisis 8a ** 8
126 China Crisis 7c+ ** 34
127 Solidarity
-
7b+ 16
128 Mr Nice 7c+ ** 30
129 The Jekyll 7c+ ** 31
130 Dihedral Wall E5 6b *** 13
131 The Great Dihedral Wall Extravaganza E6 6b *** 1
132 No Through Road 6b 20
133 Silk Road 7b * 10
134 Silk Road 2.0 7b+ *** 1
135 Highway 395 6c+ ** 298
136 Open Road 6c ** 278
137 Open Road (original) E4 6a ** 5
138 Alter Ego LH 7a+ 2
139 Alter Ego RH 7a+ 3
140 Arch Rival E5 6a * 12
141 Achilles Heel (Original) E4 6b * 34
142 Achilles Heel (retro bolted) 6c+ 86
143 Architrave E4 5c * 4
144 A Road To Nowhere
-
E5 6b 2
145 La Perla
-
E5 6b  
146 No Man's Land
-
E4 6a 1
147 Hazard Country
-
E5 6a 2
148 Mid-life crisis 8a ** 2
  Optional Extra Area
150 Mystique E3 5c 15
151 New Mystique 6b+ * 375
152 Fatoliti's Cat 6c * 41
153 Conglom Arete 7a * 54
154 Allakazam 6c * 186
155 Quiet Flight (original) 7a ** 16
156 Quiet Flight Direct 7a+ *** 315
157 Air Rage 7c+ * 3
158 Abracadavera E3 5c * 16
159 Perverted Geranium E4 6b ** 4
160 Waiting for the Sun E5 6b * 4
161 Give Me Convenience 7c 1
162 Jumpin' and Squeakin' E6 6b *  
163 No More Jumping to Conclusions 7c ** 51
164 Jumping to Conclusions
-
7b 3
165 First Impresions 7c * 8
166 The Alternative Option 7a+ 20
167 The Alternative Extra Option 7a+ ** 268
168 Optional Extra E4 6b 17
169 The Extra Option 7a+ * 10
170 Fit as... E5 6a ** 1
171 Butcher's Dog E4 6a ** 9
  Biological Need Area
173 Trauma Traverse E2 5b 1
174 Innaccessible Gully HVS 5a 2
175 Bird's Nest Crack E1 5b 24
176 Another Clip In The Wall 7a+ 11
177 Picnic On Hanging Rock E5 6b ** 4
178 Exponential Exhaustion E7 6b *** 3
179 Mantissa E5 6b * 4
180 Biological Need 7c *** 144
181 The Yorkshire Ripper 8b *** 2
182 Zero Option 7c+ ** 23
183 Soft Option 8a *** 34
184 Soft-Zero Option 8a ** 11
185 Double Indemnity
-
E6 6b  
186 Massala Martyr 8b * 2
187 Joint Enterprise f7C ** 1
188 A Smarter Martyr 8b 1
189 Exodus E7 6c 2
190 Mistaken Identity E5 7a 2
191 Warlord E2 5c 4
192 Warlord Direct Start
-
E6 6c 1
  Central Wall
194 A May's In Power 7b+ ** 5
195 Peripathetic E5 6b * 1
196 Central Wall E4 6a *** 131
Climb name Grade
197 White Rushin E6 6b *** 2
198 High Octane E6 6b ** 1
199 White Octaine E6 6b 1
200 White Feather E5 6b * 3
201 Claws E5 6a *** 32
202 The Diedre E2 5b *** 145
203 System Of A Down E4 6b ** 2
204 Friends In High Places E4 5c ** 6
205 Worlds In Collision E4 5c ** 24
206 Ken E5 6a 1
207 Ice Spurt Special E6 6b *  
208 Division Of Labour E6 6c **  
  The North Buttress
210 North Buttress Direct
-
A3 ** 3
211 Dominatrix 7c *** 230
212 Exit to Eden 7c+ ** 12
213 Drag Queen 7c+ ** 14
214 Northern Exposure - Part 1 8b+ 1
215 North Star 9a ***  
216 Progress 8c+ *** 5
217 Northern Lights 9a ***  
218 Magnetic North 8c+ ***  
219 Full Tilt 8b * 23
220 True North 8c *** 10
221 Full On Action 8b *  
222 Urgent Action (aka Under the Thumb) 8a+ *** 66
223 The Vanilla Path 8a+ * 3
224 Vanilla-Thumb 8a+ ** 1
225 The Thumb 8a *** 56
226 They Brush Me 8a+ * 1
  WYSIWYG area
228 WYSIWYG 7b+ ** 306
229 Over The Thumb 8a *** 7
230 Complete Control 8a ** 26
231 Heresy E6 6c  
232 Nisus E6 6b ** 2
233 The Perfect Storm 7c+ ** 11
234 Dead Calm 7c+ *** 85
235 The Overlap E5 6b *** 6
  Subculture Area
237 Crank Stroke Groove E5 6b * 6
238 Dr Crimp 8b+ *** 1
239 Rictus 7b * 16
240 Suigeneris (aka Chris's Route) 7c 2
241 The Last Gasp Finish 7b * 105
242 Slab Culture 7b+ * 166
243 Subculture 8a ** 127
244 Le Lapin 8a * 32
245 Myra Hindley (aka Big Vern) 7c * 91
246 Little Ernie 7c 6b ** 18
247 Little Ernie Direct Start E8 6c  
248 Private Practice 8a+ * 10
249 Grooved Arete 8a+ *** 45
250 La Connection 8b * 4
251 La False Connection 8b *** 3
252 The Quick Fixe 8b *** 4
253 Dalliance 8b+ *** 6
254 Brief Encounter 8b * 3
255 More Rhubarb Faster 7c+ * 8
256 Smooth Torquer 7a+ * 205
257 Fit Of Peak 7c * 4
258 Downright Theft E3 6a 5
259 Prying Eyes E1 5b 19
260 New Horizon E3 5c 4
261 Peeping Tom HVS 5a 4
  Bouldering
263 Launch Control
-
f7C *** 20
264 Mandela Training Traverse 8a+ * 10
265 Leech's non-eliminate f6C 8
266 Leach's Problem f7B 23
267 Pinch Alternative
-
f7C 2
268 The Edge Problem
-
f7C 7
269 Primitive Notion f8A+ ** 2
270 Gleaming Pinch f7C+ ** 6
271 Suttys Pinch f7C+ 4
272 Metal Prow f7B 8
273 Controlled V11 **  
274 Last Stand of a Free Man
-
V13  
275 Manadala extension
-
V11 2
276 Diluvian
-
V13 1
277 The Gleaming Path
-
V11  
278 Emotionless V11  
279 Pinch to pinch
-
V9  
280 Metal Traverse * f7A+ 2
281 Mandela Traverse into Boulder B *
-
V7  
282 Boulder C V6 5
283 Mandela Traverse into Boulder C *
-
V7  
284 Boulder A V4 11
285 Johnny B. Goode * V7 ** 1
286 Boulder B V5+ 8
287 End Game V13  
288 Antediluvian V13  
289 Notionless V11 4
290 Pocket Pinch V8 2
291 Leach's problem Right hand finish f7A 13
  Unsorted Climbs
293 Mandela Traverse into Boulder A V6 8
294 Indirectissima E5 6a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Vybz and Adam Lincoln