Climbs 268
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces E

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Stretched out on Man With A Gun © kevavery

Crag features

One of Yorkshire's 'Big Three' limestone crags (the other two being Gordale and Malham). Mostly higher grade sport climbing but there are some very good trad lines including The Diedre(E2), Central Wall(E4), Deja Vu(E5) and Balas(E5). Classic sport routes include The Directissima(6c), Frankie Comes to Kilnsey(7b+), Dominatrix(7c), Comedy(7c), The Ashes(7c+), Let them Eat Jelly Beans(8a), Urgent Action(8a+), True North(8c) and Northern Lights(9a). Aiding the classic Kilnsey main overhang route is an exciting option for a wet day.

Approach notes

There is some limited parking in laybys at the southern end of the crag. There is a large layby 200m to the north of the cliff.  There is also plenty of roadside parking on the lane leading across the river to Conistone about 400m to the south. FINALLY please do not park opposite or obstruct the farmers gateway.

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Guidebooks

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  South Buttress
2 Elderberry Orchard 3a 8
3 Round The Mulberry Bush 3a 10
4 Orion's Belt 3a * 25
5 Right Hand Route 3a 22
6 Andrex 5c 21
7 Alternative 5a 28
  Directissima Area
9 Southern Softie 7b * 5
10 Softie's Adventure 8b+ ** 1
11 The Pirate 8c *** 1
12 Peepshow 6b+ 93
13 Sidekick 7a+ * 89
14 Sideshow 7a+ * 119
15 Sideline 7b 18
16 True South 7b+ 4
17 Metal Mickey 8b *  
18 Metal Guru 7c ** 126
19 Last Action Hero 8a *** 14
20 Man With A Gun 7c+ ** 63
21 Action Man (aka Last Man) 8a ** 3
22 Bullet 8a+ * 21
23 Cold Steal 8a *** 38
24 Stolen 8b *** 12
25 Steal The Show 8b *** 1
26 Stolen Time 8b ** 1
27 Halftime 7c+ ** 2
28 The Technician 8a+ ** 2
29 Showtime 8b *** 2
30 Hardy Annual 7a+ * 150
31 Freakshow 8c *** 3
32 Epic Adventures 8c ** 2
33 Epic Time 8a+ ** 4
34 The Superdirectissima E5 6b ** 38
35 Make Or Break
-
E5 6b *  
36 Jump Leads E6 6b * 1
37 Jump Leads To Wise Blood (aka Jump Leads 2000) E6 6b 1
38 Wise Blood E6 6b *** 8
39 Contrablood E5 6b 2
40 Diminishing Returns 7c 6b * 5
41 Visitation 7b 6b ** 52
42 Visitation/Deja Vu link 7b * 26
43 Another Vu Point 7a+ *** 4
44 Premonition 8b+ ***  
45 Deja Vu E5 6b *** 137
46 Point of Vu E5 6b *** 3
47 Trivial Pursuits E5 6b * 2
48 A New Pursuit E4 6b ** 5
49 Face Value E5 6a ** 139
50 Full Value E5 6b ** 14
51 Contraflow E5 6b * 11
52 C/D E5 6b *** 2
53 The Big Vu E5 6b ** 3
54 The Big C E4 5c * 30
55 Guns in the Sky 8b+ 2
56 Added Value
-
7a+ ** 47
57 The Directissima 6c *** 666
58 Next Direct 7b+ * 2
59 Kilnsey Main Overhang A2 *** 61
60 Mandela 8a+ *** 18
61 Dreamtime 7c+ *** 27
62 Wet Dream 7c+ 1
63 LBW 7a * 15
64 Sticky Wicket 7b * 259
65 Sticky Wicket - The Ashes (link up) 8a ** 16
66 Indian Summer 8b+ *** 4
67 The Ashes 7c+ *** 119
68 50 for 5 7b+ * 180
69 50 for 5 - The Ashes (link up) 8a+ 8
70 All Out 8b+ *** 1
71 Aboriginal Sin 7c+ * 4
72 Limerace E6 6c 1
  The Bulge Area
74 Original Route E3 6a ** 5
75 Lickerish
-
E5 6a  
76 Brainstorm
-
E1 5b 5
77 Captain Tripps E4 5c ** 8
78 Stumped 7a+ 23
79 Detox 7b+ * 11
80 De-Stumped 7b+ * 2
81 Taking the Mick (trad) E5 6a 1
82 Taking the Mick 7a+ ** 71
83 Bird Brain
-
E5 6b 2
84 Comedy 7c *** 356
85 Pantomime 7b+ ** 150
86 Birdmen E5 6b ** 5
87 Scoop De Grace
-
E5 6b *  
88 Rubble E6 6c * 25
89 Jenga 8b+ ***  
90 Nerve Ending 7b * 125
91 Ecstacy 8b *** 13
92 The Bulgelette 6b+ * 194
93 The British Lions
-
E5 6b  
94 The Bulge (aka Let Them Eat Jellybeans) 8a *** 108
Climb name Grade
95 Travesty 7c+ * 5
96 Tragedy 7c+ ** 25
97 I Ain't No Sponsored Hero 7c ** 26
98 Ground Effect 7b ** 213
99 The Truth Drug 7b+ * 103
100 Last Year's Grade, This Year's Model
-
E5 6b 3
101 Dodger Direct E3 5c ** 64
102 Are t'Full E4 6a 1
103 Floccinaucinihilipilificatious 7b 21
104 I Ain't No Sponsored Jelly Bean (link-up) 8a+ ** 4
  Dihedral Wall Area
106 The Organ Grinder E5 6a 1
107 Witches Brew 7b ** 133
108 Frankie Comes to Kilnsey 7b+ *** 176
109 Balas E5 6b *** 48
110 Sabbath's Theatre 7c ** 2
111 The Puppeteer 8a ** 7
112 Puppeteasier 7c+ ** 2
113 Dark Stranger 7c+ ** 11
114 A Darker Stranger 8a+ 1
115 Drenka 8a+ *** 1
116 The Puppet Crisis 7c ** 2
117 Dark Crisis 7c * 1
118 Relax E7 6b *** 1
119 More Relaxed E7 6b *** 1
120 Brexit Crisis 8a ** 3
121 China Crisis 7c+ ** 28
122 Solidarity
-
7b+ 13
123 Mr Nice 7c+ ** 29
124 The Jekyll 7c+ ** 29
125 Dihedral Wall E5 6b *** 13
126 The Great Dihedral Wall Extravaganza E6 6b *** 1
127 No Through Road 6b 19
128 Silk Road 7b * 10
129 Silk Road 2.0 7b+ *** 1
130 Highway 395 6c+ ** 282
131 Open Road 6c ** 263
132 Open Road (original) E4 6a ** 5
133 Alter Ego LH 7a+ 2
134 Alter Ego RH 7a+ 2
135 Arch Rival E5 6a * 12
136 Achilles Heel (Original) E4 6b * 34
137 Achilles Heel (retro bolted) 6c+ 69
138 Architrave E4 5c * 4
139 A Road To Nowhere
-
E5 6b 2
140 La Perla
-
E5 6b  
141 No Man's Land
-
E4 6a 1
142 Hazard Country
-
E5 6a 2
  Optional Extra Area
144 Mystique E3 5c 13
145 New Mystique 6b+ * 351
146 Fatoliti's Cat 6c * 39
147 Conglom Arete 7a * 52
148 Allakazam 6c * 166
149 Quiet Flight (original) 7a ** 15
150 Quiet Flight Direct 7a+ *** 283
151 Air Rage 7c+ * 3
152 Abracadavera E3 5c * 15
153 Perverted Geranium E4 6b ** 4
154 Waiting for the Sun E5 6b * 4
155 Give Me Convenience 7c 1
156 Jumpin' and Squeakin' E6 6b *  
157 No More Jumping to Conclusions 7c ** 42
158 Jumping to Conclusions
-
7b 3
159 First Impresions 7c * 6
160 The Alternative Option 7a+ 20
161 The Alternative Extra Option 7a+ ** 246
162 Optional Extra E4 6b 17
163 The Extra Option 7a+ * 10
164 Fit as... E5 6a ** 1
165 Butcher's Dog E4 6a ** 9
  Biological Need Area
167 Trauma Traverse E2 5b 1
168 Innaccessible Gully HVS 5a 2
169 Bird's Nest Crack E1 5b 23
170 Another Clip In The Wall 7a+ 11
171 Picnic On Hanging Rock E5 6b ** 4
172 Exponential Exhaustion E7 6b *** 3
173 Mantissa E5 6b * 4
174 Biological Need 7c *** 138
175 The Yorkshire Ripper 8b *** 2
176 Zero Option 7c+ ** 22
177 Soft Option 8a *** 34
178 Soft-Zero Option 8a ** 10
179 Double Indemnity
-
E6 6b  
180 Massala Martyr 8b * 2
181 Joint Enterprise f7C ** 1
182 A Smarter Martyr 8b 1
183 Exodus E7 6c 2
184 Mistaken Identity E5 7a 2
185 Warlord E2 5c 4
186 Warlord Direct Start
-
E6 6c 1
  Central Wall
188 A May's In Power 7b+ ** 5
Climb name Grade
189 Peripathetic E5 6b *  
190 Central Wall E4 6a *** 129
191 White Rushin E6 6b *** 2
192 High Octane E6 6b ** 1
193 White Octaine E6 6b 1
194 White Feather E5 6b * 3
195 Claws E5 6a *** 30
196 The Diedre E2 5b *** 137
197 System Of A Down E4 6b ** 2
198 Friends In High Places E4 5c ** 6
199 Worlds In Collision E4 5c ** 24
200 Ken E5 6a 1
201 Ice Spurt Special E6 6b *  
202 Division Of Labour E6 6c **  
  The North Buttress
204 North Buttress Direct
-
A3 ** 3
205 Dominatrix 7c *** 198
206 Exit to Eden 7c+ ** 12
207 Drag Queen 7c+ ** 14
208 Northern Exposure - Part 1 8b+ 1
209 North Star 9a ***  
210 Progress 8c+ *** 5
211 Northern Lights 9a ***  
212 Magnetic North 8c+ ***  
213 Full Tilt 8b * 21
214 True North 8c *** 10
215 Full On Action 8b *  
216 Urgent Action (aka Under the Thumb) 8a+ *** 61
217 The Vanilla Path 8a+ * 3
218 Vanilla-Thumb 8a+ ** 1
219 The Thumb 8a *** 55
220 They Brush Me 8a+ * 1
  WYSIWYG area
222 WYSIWYG 7b+ ** 273
223 Over The Thumb 8a *** 7
224 Complete Control 8a ** 22
225 Heresy E6 6c  
226 Nisus E6 6b ** 2
227 The Perfect Storm 7c+ ** 10
228 Dead Calm 7c+ *** 79
229 The Overlap E5 6b *** 6
  Subculture Area
231 Crank Stroke Groove E5 6b * 6
232 Dr Crimp 8b+ *** 1
233 Rictus 7b * 16
234 Suigeneris (aka Chris's Route) 7c 2
235 The Last Gasp Finish 7b * 91
236 Slab Culture 7b+ * 149
237 Subculture 8a ** 103
238 Le Lapin 8a * 25
239 Myra Hindley (aka Big Vern) 7c * 80
240 Little Ernie 7c 6b ** 15
241 Little Ernie Direct Start E8 6c  
242 Private Practice 8a+ * 9
243 Grooved Arete 8a+ *** 43
244 La Connection 8b * 4
245 La False Connection 8b *** 3
246 The Quick Fixe 8b *** 4
247 Dalliance 8b+ *** 6
248 Brief Encounter 8b * 3
249 More Rhubarb Faster 7c+ * 8
250 Smooth Torquer 7a+ * 191
251 Fit Of Peak 7c * 4
252 Downright Theft E3 6a 5
253 Prying Eyes E1 5b 18
254 New Horizon E3 5c 4
255 Peeping Tom HVS 5a 4
  Bouldering
257 Launch Control
-
f7C *** 9
258 Mandela Training Traverse 8a+ * 4
259 Leech's non-eliminate f6C 4
260 Leach's Problem f7B 11
261 Pinch Alternative
-
f7C 2
262 The Edge Problem
-
f7C 2
263 Primitive Notion f8A+ ** 2
264 Gleaming Pinch f7C+ ** 2
265 Suttys Pinch f7C+ 3
266 Metal Prow f7B 2
267 Controlled V11 **  
268 Last Stand of a Free Man
-
V13  
269 Manadala extension
-
V11  
270 Diluvian
-
V13  
271 The Gleaming Path
-
V11  
272 Emotionless V11  
273 Pinch to pinch
-
V9  
274 Boulder C * V6 1
275 Boulder A * V4  
276 Boulder B * V5+  
277 End Game * V13  
278 Antediluvian * V13  
279 Notionless * V11  
  Unsorted Climbs
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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