Due to the ongoing spread of Covid-19, please abstain from climbing outside.
At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.
We have suspended the UKC Logbooks Top Ascents and Conditions pages and we will no longer accept ascents dated from 23rd March onwards. You can still upload your historic ascents.
Altitude 241m a.s.l
Barry Rawlinson 'Breaking the Law', 1st ascent. © dillon_archer
This is really two crags; the quarry (which has a number of faces) and Skyline Buttress, a natural crag (some of which overlooks the quarry) that is in the wood up and to the left.
Both crags are approached from the ample parking place below the quarry.
Approach to Skyline is through the woods following a steep path up the left edge of the left quarry. The rock at Skyline is generally excellent flaky/pocketed linestone leading to fingery climbing. Less sound rock in the quarry is generally ok and off-vertical. Balance climbing tends to be the order of the day. The trad climbs in the quarry are often 'stimulating'.
Skyline has been further bolted since the Rockfax guide came out and all of the main routes can now be considered sport climbs.
It should be assumed both are covered by the same bird ban at certain times of the year (see BMC RAD). The ban starts on 1st March and goes on until 15th July though it is sometimes lifted early if the birds do not hatch chicks - a notice is usually found at the car park.
Langcliffe is regularly patrolled by YDNPA wardens and conservation volunteers. The quarry area is also designated as a Scheduled Monument under the Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Areas Act 1979 and English Heritage consider that any further drilling to place bolts may constitute a criminal offence unless consent is gained via them from the Secretary of State.
Skyline Buttress is in private ownership and no formal access agreement is in place. Negotiations have failed to resolve the issue with the landowner of this buttress, who has occasionally asked climbers to leave.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
This includes Skyline Buttress. In some years the peregrines have nested elsewhere and if this is the case the restriction may be lifted early and the information contained here will be updated.
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