Climbs 29
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 47m a.s.l
Faces S

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Strangers © simon rawlinson

Crag features

The crags in this area are accessed from near the village of Trefin. The main focus is Craig Llong. Craig Llong is a true adventure crag, with a collection of serious climbs on flaky, very sharp rock that is either frighteningly steep, frighteningly loose, or both. The best routes are in the E4-E7 range, all of which feature wild moves in impressive positions. The cliff has an intimidating atmosphere and all the routes require a certain amount of "pysching up", helmets recommended.

Approach notes

From Trefin village centre drive 800m east on the road to Abercastle to parking spots. Follow path around fields to join coast path. Turn right. Craig Llong is the impressive cliff set into the north side of the bay. Follow a vague path from a small dip in the coast path 50m before the crag is reached and downwards to the routes.

Avoid the routes on the lower section (left of Corkscrew) if seals are present during July to December (visual check needed) because of pupping.

Access Advice

Avoid the routes on the lower section (left of Corkscrew) if seals are present during July to December (visual check needed) because of pupping.

Stake at the top of Impetus Now area is totally gubbed - i pushed it flat to the ground by hand but was unable to remove it. There isn't a great deal else gear wise at the top here.
alan_davies - 13/Apr/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Craig Llong
2 Cold Climb VD  
3 Flake Slab VD  
4 Trainer Slab HS 1
5 Moonie E7 6b ***  
6 Moonstruck E7 6b ***  
7 The Cambrian E5 6a ** 1
8 Souls of the Departed E4 6a * 1
9 Grand Duke E2 5b 2
10 The Count E1 5a 1
11 Corkscrew VS 4b 1
Climb name Grade
12 Classic Walks VS 4a 5
13 Extreme Walks E4 6a *  
14 Go Take a Running Jump E6 6b *  
15 Can You Walk Like You Talk E4 6a ** 2
16 Chimney Route HS 4a * 5
17 Impetus Now E7 6b ** 1
18 Strangers E7 6b ** 1
19 Wait on the Corner E5 6b *  
20 Walk On By E4 5c  
  Trwyn Llong (Fisherman's Ridge)
Climb name Grade
  North Side
23 Pocket Slab
-
HS  
24 Heather Slab
-
HS  
25 Den's Dyke
-
VS 4b  
26 Acapulco
-
HVS 5a  
27 Garibaldi
-
VS 4b  
28 Roland the Rat
-
HS  
  South Side
30 Recessed Slab
-
S  
31 Thrift Slab
-
HS 4a  
32 NWAF (Not Worth Abseiling For)
-
HS  
33 Velcro
-
VS 4b  

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