UKC

Climbs 321
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces S

RichC Highstepping on PuddleJumper on a grey wet summer Sunday © ChrisJD

Crag features

Central Walls of steep compact limestone with the best sport climbing in the Pennines (best grades F7a to F8c). A right wing of superb trad lines with the best routes in the HVS to E4 category. A left wing with worthwhile short,easier routes (S to E1) and short technical but less popular, hard trad up to E5. [Dave Musgrove]

Access Advice

There is a bolting agreement between the BMC and Malham Parish Council (the landowners) to ensure that the noise of bolting doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experiance of this incredible natural beauty spot. The agreement is for no bolting at weekends, during the main school summer holiday or during the nesting restriction.

Wild camping is not allowed near the Cove or fields around - please use one of the campsites at Riverside or Gordale instead. In addition , please don't park anywhere other than the locations listed in parking below. Following this simple code of conduct is crucially important in maintaining good relations between climbers and the landowner and preventing access problems.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting Peregrines. This year (2018), the restriction has changed due to the birds switching their nest site and applies to Caveat Wall on the Left Wing, from Hangover (route 57 in YMC guide) to The Man and the Myth (route 8) inclusive. The whole of Terrace Wall and all trad routes on the Right Wing to the left of Scorpio are unaffected this year. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period as usual.

When topping out from climbs on the right wing, please move away quickly once both climbers have topped out to avoid disturbing the birds. (This area will be fenced off during nesting season to prevent public access to the top of the crag and large number of people who could disturb the birds - access for climbers exiting the crag is fine providing it is discreet so as not to encourage the public onto the top of the crag. It's also worth mentioning that you will be doing this to the RSPB peregrine watch volunteers if they are present as you walk in to avoid any confusion.

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Guidebooks

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
More info
It'd be great if this was split the same as in Northern Limestone, i.e. upper tier was separated out?
Paul B - 24/Aug/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Left Wing
2 Bobber Boots
-
VD 27
3 Straight Crack
-
HS 65
4 Straight Up
-
VS 4c * 47
5 Pedestal Wall S * 69
6 The Thistle
-
HVS 5b * 29
7 Theist
-
E1 6b 4
8 Th-Rows
-
HVS 5b 10
9 Wall And Crack
-
VD 34
10 Fingers
-
VS 4c 30
11 Crown of Thorns HVS 5b 7
12 Tiara
-
E2 6a 4
13 Coronet Crack
-
HVS 5a 12
14 Crazy Paving
-
VS 4c 36
15 Lost Corner E3 6a 2
16 Reluctant Passenger E3 6a * 3
17 Ringo E5 6c * 2
18 Rage E4 6b * 2
19 Short Groove
-
E2 5c * 11
20 Rose Corner E4 6a 2
21 Memory Lane E3 6a 3
22 The
-
E2 5c * 15
23 Stern VS 4c * 14
24 Autonomy
-
E3 6a * 9
25 Cy-ril S * 16
26 Mistake
-
S 12
27 Dilatory Climb HS 4b * 12
28 Cube Root
-
E1 5b 27
29 One Point Two Six (cube root two) E4 6a * 1
30 Square Root
-
E2 5c * 14
31 Pikestaff
-
VS 5a * 27
32 Flake Wall
-
S ** 63
33 Rook
-
E2 5c 16
34 Crow
-
E1 5c 8
35 Chough HVS 6a 5
36 Magpie HVS 5c 5
37 Jackdaw
-
HVS 5a 10
38 Raven
-
VS 5a 11
39 Night Moves E3 6a * 2
40 Original Route S ** 50
41 Hampster Jam VS 4c 10
42 Wish You Were Here
-
E2 5b * 13
43 Saplink
-
HVS 5b ** 34
44 Box of Tools E3 6a * 3
45 Ship of Fools E4 6b * 1
46 Warspite
-
E3 6a * 12
47 Going Dutch E3 6a * 6
48 Aid E4 6b 1
49 Ephedrine Influx E3 5c 1
50 The Well Oiled Machine E4 6a 1
51 Sarcophagus
-
E3 6a ** 8
52 The Crab HVS 5b * 4
53 Joe Spivey E2 5c 2
54 Majidae E2 5c 2
55 Hangover HVS 5a 9
56 Vagabond
-
E2 5c * 11
57 Chrysalis E2 5c 2
58 Shining Usu E2 5b 2
59 Birgus Latro E5 6a 1
60 The Dalesman
-
VS 4c 7
61 Percy Thrower HVS 5a 1
  Beck Wall
63 Big Drip HVS 5b 5
64 Rain Drops
-
E4 6b 3
65 Rain Dances
-
E4 6a 2
66 Rodney's Route
-
E2 5b * 12
67 The Pink Pinky Goes to Malham E3 6a 10
68 Bolts Screw You Up
-
E3 6a 6
  The Catwalk
70 Brilliant, Brilliant 6c 98
71 Bon-Appetite 7b * 11
72 The Highlife 7b+ * 12
73 Just Not in Lust 7c ** 12
74 Mighty Fine Ass 7c+ *** 16
75 Appetite 7a+ ** 344
76 Mule Variation 7b * 59
77 Henry's Route 7c+ ** 15
78 Yosemite Wall 7a+ *** 415
79 Yosemite Direct 7a+ ** 1
80 Obligatory Finish 7b+ 6b 2
81 Against the Grain 7a+ ** 192
82 Against the Wall 7a 19
83 Taking the Space 7b *** 135
84 Taking the Rise E4 6a * 3
85 Hands of Time 7c * 4
86 Space Race 7b+ *** 212
87 Space Invaders 7c+ ** 39
88 Tremelo 7c *** 145
89 The Minimum 7a+ * 80
90 Minimum Fuss 7c ** 11
91 Mescalito 7c+ *** 134
92 New Dawn 7c *** 267
93 Twisted 8a ** 3
94 Vogue 7c+ ** 8
95 Lovatt Link 8a ** 1
96 Baboo-Baboo 8a *** 69
97 Straightened 8a ** 30
98 Straight Jacket 8b 2
99 G.B.H. 8a+ *** 77
100 A.B.H. 8a+ 4
101 Zoolook 8a *** 126
102 Well Dunne Finish 8b *** 7
103 Predator 8b *** 58
104 Sabotage 8c+  
105 The Terminator 8b+ ***  
106 Cry Freedom 8c *** 7
107 Something for Nothing 8c ** 2
108 The Great Escape 8b+ *** 2
109 Mid Ledge Spread 8a+ ** 15
110 The Maximum 7c+ ** 62
Climb name Grade
111 Austrian Oak 8b *** 35
112 Magnetic Fields 8b ** 12
113 Overnite Sensation 8a+ ** 59
114 Overshadow 9a+ ***  
115 Piggy Bank Wall A3 *** 2
116 Energy Vampire 8a+ * 16
117 Connect 4 8a ** 35
118 Connect 5 8a+ ** 4
119 Raindogs 8a *** 255
120 Rainshadow 9a *** 7
121 Rainman 9b ***  
122 Chiselling the Dragon 7c * 100
123 The Directissima A2 15
124 Seventh Aardvark 7b ** 377
125 Seventh Dragon 7b+ ** 16
126 Bat Route 8c *** 16
127 Batman 9a ***  
128 Bat Shadow 8c+ ***  
129 Raining Bats and Dogs 8c *** 4
130 Rated PG 7a+ * 246
131 Consenting Adults 7a ** 1033
132 Thriller 7c+ 18
133 Victor Hugo 8b *** 2
134 Personal Services 7b * 127
135 Free and Even Easier 7a+ ** 523
136 Idefix 8b *** 2
137 Bongo Fury 7b ** 135
138 Something Stupid 7b * 291
139 Totally Free 8b ***  
140 Totally Free II 8b *** 3
141 The Groove 8a+ *** 52
142 Groovy Baby 8a ** 8
143 Unjustified 8b+ *** 13
144 Overjustified
-
8c *** 2
145 The Superdirectissima A2 *** 9
146 King Swing A2 ** 6
147 Chocolate Logger 7c * 24
148 Scavenger 8a * 7
149 Wasted Youth 7b ** 217
150 Power Ranger 8b+ *** 2
151 Rose Coronary 7a ** 831
152 Transformer 8c **  
153 Queen of Harts 7c * 11
154 Hartley Hare 7a+ ** 286
155 Hardly There 6c+ * 48
156 Puddle Jumper 7a+ * 461
157 Betty Bullwhip 7a+ 10
158 Snidely Whiplash 7a+ 8
159 Dudley D-Good 7b 10
160 Just Another Dead End Job 7a * 208
161 A Career with Prospects E5 6a * 23
162 Extra Over E4 6a * 80
163 Bolt Revolt 7a * 162
164 Afterburn E4 6a * 49
165 Sycophants 7a * 341
166 Skyjack 7c+ * 4
167 Brooklyn Girls 7a * 205
168 Frankenstein 7a+ ** 380
169 The Under Dunn Start 7b * 9
170 Whodunnit 6c+ * 40
171 Baba O'Riley 8a * 1
172 Begozi and the Ledge Lizards 6a+ 425
173 Redpoint No Point E5 6b 5
174 The Angel Gabriella 7b+ * 15
175 Burning Rubber Necklace 7a * 49
176 Soweto Sunset
-
7a ** 12
177 Vociferous Fledglings 6c+ * 16
178 The Scene of the Crime 6c * 62
179 Brain Dead Dave
-
E4 6a 2
180 Hyperspace 6b+ * 83
181 Hyperactive Housewife E3 6a 1
  Upper Wall - Left
183 Romance and Reality E5 6a * 3
184 Douk E3 5c 3
185 Scaremonger E4 6a 1
186 Codicil E5 6a 1
187 Caveat E5 6b 3
188 Cadenza/Commorient 7b ** 1
189 Cadenza
-
7a+ ** 6
190 Commorient E5 6b 2
191 The Man and the Myth 7c+ **  
192 The Moon's Apprentice 7a 4
193 Crash Dive E5 6b 1
194 Local Hero 7c+ *** 2
195 Local Roof 8a *** 1
196 Niagara 8a+ ***  
197 Soft Centre 7b+ * 5
198 Rive Gauche 7b+ * 2
  Upper Wall - Right
200 Centrespread E5 6b ** 1
201 Free and Easy 7c ** 48
202 An Uneasy Peace 7c+ ** 7
203 Renaissance 8a *** 6
204 Breach of the Peace 8a *** 4
205 Cover to Cover 8b *** 1
206 Climb of the Century 8a+ *** 3
207 L'Ob Session 7c+ *** 47
208 Obsession 7b+ *** 242
209 Total Eclipse 8c+ *** 1
210 The New Age Traveller 8a *** 50
211 N'Obsession 7c+ ** 4
212 Herbie 7c+ *** 116
213 Conehead 8a+ ** 6
214 Main Overhang 8a ** 36
215 Main Overhang (aid) A2 ** 23
216 Toadal Recall 8a ** 64
217 Toadal Recall 2.0 8a+ **  
218 The Toad of Beck Hall 7b+ * 42
219 The Reign is Over 8c  
220 Toad Licker 7c * 12
Climb name Grade
221 Toadally Cool 8a+ 1
222 Serious Young Toads 7c ** 17
223 The Last Toad 7b+ * 37
224 Conceptual 7b * 14
225 Conceptual Continuity 8a ** 3
226 The Last Waltz 7a+ ** 41
227 Seventh Toad E6 6b * 7
228 Gorgan Direct E5 6b ** 15
229 Gorgan Directish E4 6b ** 12
230 Duck Dive E5 6b * 31
231 Duck Dive (sport)
-
7a+ ** 5
232 Jilted John E5 6a 1
233 Gravity 7b * 22
234 Wicked Gravity 8b **  
235 Donald Ducked E5 6b 9
236 Laughter 7c+  
  The Terrace
238 Letterbox Wall VS 4c 16
239 Terrace Crack HVS 5c 17
240 The Thin Crack E1 6a 3
241 Problem Wall E2 6a 2
242 Terrace Stairway D 7
243 Cove Crack E3 6a 4
244 Good Crack E4 6c  
245 Ivy Corner VS 4b 18
246 Grandfather Clock E2 6a * 8
247 Butch Cassidy E4 6b ** 13
248 Cat on a Hot Tin Roof E5 6b 4
249 Black Dyke E3 5c * 21
250 Terrace Wall VS 5a ** 75
251 Terrace Wall Direct E2 6a * 4
252 Wild West Hero E5 6b ** 13
253 Sundance Wall E2 5c *** 100
254 Swift Attack E3 5c *** 47
255 Static Contrasts E5 6b * 1
256 The Stone Tent
-
E2 5b * 14
257 Ripsnorter E2 5b 6
258 Dangerous Acquaintances E6 6b 1
259 Midnight Cowboy E3 5c *** 83
260 New Dawn Fades E5 6a *** 10
261 Motomoron E3 6b 3
262 Motomoron Direct E4 6b 4
263 Limehill E5 6a *** 28
  The Right Wing - Carnage Wall
265 Amber Nectar E6 6b ** 3
266 Greystoke E6 6c **  
267 Sitting Ducks E5 6a 2
268 Stone Tent E2 5c * 3
269 The Macabre
-
E3 5b 8
270 Macabre (pitch 3) E1 5a 1
271 Tarzan E4 6a * 3
272 Forth Coming E5 6b 1
273 Second Coming E5 6b ** 1
274 Carnage E2 5b *** 228
275 Chasing the Dragon E5 6b *** 3
276 More Funky Than Monkey E5 6b ** 2
277 Mulatto Wall E3 5c *** 134
278 Going Ape E5 6a 1
279 Bad Brain E4 6a ** 44
280 El Coronel E5 6b *** 6
281 Third Party Only E6 6b 2
282 Rubble Without a Cause E5 6b 1
283 The Country of Man E4 6b 1
284 Seventh Grade E5 6b * 3
285 Carnage Left-hand E1 5b *** 182
286 Scorpio HVS 5a * 41
287 Scorpio Direct finish
-
HVS 5a * 7
  The Right Wing - Wombat Wall
289 Wind and Wuthering E3 5c ** 62
290 Monkey's Uncle E3 6a * 5
291 Crossbones/East Wall HVS 5a ** 77
292 East Wall Route
-
E2 6a, 5a 32
293 Crossbones E2 5c *** 214
294 Thin Lizzy E5 6b * 1
295 Articulated Loris E5 6a * 3
296 Slender Loris E4 6a *** 112
297 Doubting Thomas E5 6b *** 47
298 The Annihilation Mix E3 6b * 2
299 Wombat E2 5c *** 255
300 Regatta de Blanc E5 6a * 20
301 Clapperclaw E4 6c * 1
302 Cathay Pacific E4 * 6
303 Rounded Horizons E4 5c 3
304 Kirkby Wall HVS 5b ** 163
305 Junkyard Angel HVS 5b *** 216
306 The Kylin HVS 5b ** 60
307 The Cavern HVS 5a * 73
308 Y.A.B.O. E4 6b 1
309 The Cavern Direct
-
E1 5b * 9
310 Limpet E2 13
311 Friday the 13th E3 6a ** 85
312 Daytona E3 5b * 26
313 Vertical Crack E2 5c 3
314 Overhanging Crack HVS 5b 11
315 Just Another Very Severe (Hard) E3 5c  
316 Pikedaw Wall HVS 5a *** 289
317 Olaf HVS 5a * 103
318 Canute E1 5c 6
319 Butterfingers E2 5c 10
320 Clubfoot VS 4c *** 289
321 Swingover VS 5a ** 134
322 Swingover Direct
-
VS 4c * 43
323 Swingside HVS 5b * 11
324 Frivolous VS 5a 9
325 Lightning Crack VS 5a 36
326 Route One VS 4c 16
327 The Right Wing Girdle E2 5c *** 17
328 Pumpwater meets the Hulk E5 6b *** 5
329 Over the Top E7 6c ** 1

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