Climbs 316
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces S

RichC Highstepping on PuddleJumper on a grey wet summer Sunday © ChrisJD

Crag features

Central Walls of steep compact limestone with the best sport climbing in the Pennines (best grades F7a to F8c). A right wing of superb trad lines with the best routes in the HVS to E4 category. A left wing with worthwhile short,easier routes (S to E1) and short technical but less popular, hard trad up to E5. [Dave Musgrove]

Access Advice

There is a bolting agreement between the BMC and Malham Parish Council (the landowners) to ensure that the noise of bolting doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experiance of this incredible natural beauty spot. The agreement is for no bolting at weekends, during the main school summer holiday or during the nesting restriction.

Wild camping is not allowed near the Cove or fields around - please use one of the campsites at Riverside or Gordale instead. In addition , please don't park anywhere other than the locations listed in parking below. Following this simple code of conduct is crucially important in maintaining good relations between climbers and the landowner and preventing access problems.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting Peregrines. The restriction applies to Caveat Wall on the Left Wing, from Hangover (route 57 in YMC guide) to The Man and the Myth (route 8) inclusive. The whole of Terrace Wall and all trad routes on the Right Wing to the left of Scorpio are unaffected this year.

When topping out from climbs on the left wing, please move away quickly once both climbers have topped out to avoid disturbing the birds. (This area will be fenced off during nesting season to prevent public access to the top of the crag and large number of people who could disturb the birds - access for climbers exiting the crag is fine providing it is discreet so as not to encourage the public onto the top of the crag. It's also worth mentioning that you will be doing this to the RSPB peregrine watch volunteers if they are present as you walk in to avoid any confusion.

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Guidebooks

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
More info
It'd be great if this was split the same as in Northern Limestone, i.e. upper tier was separated out?
Paul B - 24/Aug/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Left Wing
2 Bobber Boots
-
VD 23
3 Straight Crack
-
HS 62
4 Straight Up
-
VS 4c * 44
5 Pedestal Wall S * 66
6 The Thistle
-
HVS 5b * 25
7 Theist
-
E1 6b 4
8 Th-Rows
-
HVS 5b 10
9 Wall And Crack
-
VD 31
10 Fingers
-
VS 4c 28
11 Crown of Thorns HVS 5b 6
12 Tiara
-
E2 6a 4
13 Coronet Crack
-
HVS 5a 10
14 Crazy Paving
-
VS 4c 33
15 Lost Corner E3 6a 2
16 Reluctant Passenger E3 6a * 2
17 Ringo E5 6c * 2
18 Rage E4 6b * 2
19 Short Groove
-
E2 5c * 9
20 Rose Corner E4 6a 2
21 Memory Lane E3 6a 3
22 The
-
E2 5c * 10
23 Stern VS 4c * 12
24 Autonomy
-
E3 6a * 7
25 Cy-ril S * 16
26 Mistake
-
S 12
27 Dilatory Climb HS 4b * 11
28 Cube Root
-
E1 5b 23
29 One Point Two Six (cube root two) E4 6a * 1
30 Square Root
-
E2 5c * 12
31 Pikestaff
-
VS 5a * 25
32 Flake Wall
-
S ** 59
33 Rook
-
E2 5c 14
34 Crow
-
E1 5c 7
35 Chough HVS 6a 4
36 Magpie HVS 5c 4
37 Jackdaw
-
HVS 5a 8
38 Raven
-
VS 5a 9
39 Night Moves E3 6a * 2
40 Original Route S ** 48
41 Hampster Jam VS 4c 9
42 Wish You Were Here
-
E2 5b * 12
43 Saplink
-
HVS 5b ** 29
44 Box of Tools E3 6a * 2
45 Ship of Fools E4 6b * 1
46 Warspite
-
E3 6a * 10
47 Going Dutch E3 6a * 3
48 Aid E4 6b 1
49 Ephedrine Influx E3 5c 1
50 The Well Oiled Machine E4 6a 1
51 Sarcophagus
-
E3 6a ** 6
52 The Crab HVS 5b * 4
53 Joe Spivey E2 5c 2
54 Majidae E2 5c 2
55 Hangover HVS 5a 8
56 Vagabond
-
E2 5c * 8
57 Chrysalis E2 5c 2
58 Shining Usu E2 5b 2
59 Birgus Latro E5 6a 1
60 The Dalesman
-
VS 4c 5
61 Percy Thrower HVS 5a 1
  Beck Wall
63 Big Drip HVS 5b 4
64 Rain Drops
-
E4 6b 3
65 Rain Dances
-
E4 6a 2
66 Rodney's Route
-
E2 5b * 9
67 The Pink Pinky Goes to Malham E3 6a 10
68 Bolts Screw You Up
-
E3 6a 4
  The Catwalk
70 Brilliant, Brilliant 6c 86
71 Bon-Appetite 7b * 6
72 The Highlife 7b+ * 9
73 Just Not in Lust 7c ** 11
74 Mighty Fine Ass 7c+ *** 19
75 Appetite 7a+ ** 318
76 Mule Variation 7b * 52
77 Henry's Route 7c+ ** 14
78 Yosemite Wall 7a+ *** 453
79 Obligatory Finish 7b+ 6b 2
80 Against the Grain 7a+ ** 185
81 Against the Wall 7a 12
82 Taking the Space 7b *** 133
83 Taking the Rise E4 6a * 3
84 Hands of Time 7c * 4
85 Space Race 7b+ *** 222
86 Space Invaders 7c+ ** 41
87 Tremelo 7c *** 150
88 The Minimum 7a+ * 75
89 Minimum Fuss 7c ** 11
90 Mescalito 7c+ *** 135
91 New Dawn 7c *** 287
92 Twisted 8a ** 3
93 Vogue 7c+ ** 7
94 Lovatt Link 8a ** 1
95 Baboo-Baboo 8a *** 71
96 Straightened 8a ** 28
97 Straight Jacket 8b 2
98 G.B.H. 8a+ *** 82
99 A.B.H. 8a+ 3
100 Zoolook 8a *** 118
101 Well Dunne Finish 8b *** 5
102 Predator 8b *** 71
103 Sabotage 8c+  
104 The Terminator 8b+ ***  
105 Cry Freedom 8c *** 10
106 Something for Nothing 8c ** 1
107 The Great Escape 8b+ *** 4
108 Mid Ledge Spread 8a+ ** 14
109 The Maximum 7c+ ** 56
110 Austrian Oak 8b *** 42
111 Magnetic Fields 8b ** 15
112 Overnite Sensation 8a+ ** 52
113 Overshadow 9a+ ***  
114 Piggy Bank Wall A3 *** 2
115 Energy Vampire 8a+ * 15
116 Connect 4 8a ** 27
117 Connect 5 8a+ ** 3
118 Raindogs 8a *** 311
119 Rainshadow 9a *** 6
120 Rainman 9b ***  
121 Chiselling the Dragon 7c * 91
122 The Directissima A2 11
123 Seventh Aardvark 7b ** 362
124 Seventh Dragon 7b+ ** 13
125 Bat Route 8c *** 13
126 Batman 9a ***  
127 Bat Shadow 8c+ ***  
128 Raining Bats and Dogs 8c *** 4
129 Rated PG 7a+ * 232
130 Consenting Adults 7a ** 987
131 Thriller 7c+ 16
132 Victor Hugo 8b *** 1
133 Personal Services 7b * 114
134 Free and Even Easier 7a+ ** 495
135 Idefix 8b ***  
136 Bongo Fury 7b ** 133
137 Something Stupid 7b * 292
138 Totally Free 8b ***  
139 Totally Free II 8b *** 3
140 The Groove 8a+ *** 60
141 Groovy Baby 8a ** 8
142 Unjustified 8b+ *** 12
143 Overjustified
-
8c *** 2
144 The Superdirectissima A2 *** 13
145 King Swing A2 ** 4
146 Chocolate Logger 7c * 21
147 Scavenger 8a * 4
148 Wasted Youth 7b ** 213
149 Power Ranger 8b+ *** 1
150 Rose Coronary 7a ** 792
151 Transformer 8c **  
152 Queen of Harts 7c * 10
153 Hartley Hare 7a+ ** 275
154 Hardly There 6c+ * 34
155 Puddle Jumper 7a+ * 435
156 Betty Bullwhip 7a+ 9
157 Snidely Whiplash 7a+ 7
158 Dudley D-Good 7b 7
159 Just Another Dead End Job 7a * 195
160 A Career with Prospects E5 6a * 20
161 Extra Over E4 6a * 62
162 Bolt Revolt 7a * 142
163 Afterburn E4 6a * 42
164 Sycophants 7a * 321
165 Skyjack 7c+ * 4
166 Brooklyn Girls 7a * 186
167 Frankenstein 7a+ ** 359
168 The Under Dunn Start 7b * 6
169 Whodunnit 6c+ * 29
170 Baba O'Riley 8a * 1
171 Begozi and the Ledge Lizards 6a+ 397
172 Redpoint No Point E5 6b 5
173 The Angel Gabriella 7b+ * 15
174 Burning Rubber Necklace 7a * 46
175 Soweto Sunset
-
7a ** 9
176 Vociferous Fledglings 6c+ * 14
177 The Scene of the Crime 6c * 59
178 Brain Dead Dave
-
E4 6a 2
179 Hyperspace 6b+ * 87
180 Hyperactive Housewife E3 6a  
  Upper Wall - Left
182 Romance and Reality E5 6a * 2
183 Douk E3 5c 2
184 Scaremonger E4 6a 1
185 Codicil E5 6a 1
186 Caveat E5 6b 2
187 Cadenza/Commorient 7b ** 1
188 Cadenza
-
7a+ ** 6
189 Commorient E5 6b 2
190 The Man and the Myth 7c+ **  
191 The Moon's Apprentice 7a 3
192 Crash Dive E5 6b 1
193 Local Hero 7c+ *** 2
194 Local Roof 8a *** 1
195 Niagara 8a+ ***  
196 Soft Centre 7b+ * 5
197 Rive Gauche 7b+ * 2
  Upper Wall - Right
199 Centrespread E5 6b ** 1
200 Free and Easy 7c ** 43
201 An Uneasy Peace 7c+ ** 5
202 Renaissance 8a *** 6
203 Breach of the Peace 8a *** 4
204 Climb of the Century 8a+ *** 2
205 L'Ob Session 7c+ *** 39
206 Obsession 7b+ *** 268
207 Total Eclipse 8c+ *** 1
208 The New Age Traveller 8a *** 47
209 N'Obsession 7c+ ** 4
210 Herbie 7c+ *** 113
211 Conehead 8a+ ** 4
212 Main Overhang 8a ** 36
213 Main Overhang (aid) A2 ** 19
214 Toadal Recall 8a ** 60
215 The Toad of Beck Hall 7b+ * 38
216 Toad Licker 7c * 10
217 Toadally Cool 8a+  
218 Serious Young Toads 7c ** 15
219 The Last Toad 7b+ * 35
220 Conceptual 7b * 11
221 Conceptual Continuity 8a ** 3
222 The Last Waltz 7a+ ** 37
223 Seventh Toad E6 6b * 7
224 Gorgan Direct E5 6b ** 11
225 Gorgan Directish E4 6b ** 11
226 Duck Dive E5 6b * 25
227 Jilted John E5 6a 1
228 Gravity 7b * 20
229 Wicked Gravity 8b **  
230 Donald Ducked E5 6b 9
231 Laughter 7c+  
  The Terrace
233 Letterbox Wall VS 4c 14
234 Terrace Crack HVS 5c 15
235 The Thin Crack E1 6a 3
236 Problem Wall E2 6a 1
237 Terrace Stairway D 7
238 Cove Crack E3 6a 3
239 Good Crack E4 6c  
240 Ivy Corner VS 4b 15
241 Grandfather Clock E2 6a * 6
242 Butch Cassidy E4 6b ** 12
243 Cat on a Hot Tin Roof E5 6b 4
244 Black Dyke E3 5c * 16
245 Terrace Wall VS 5a ** 66
246 Terrace Wall Direct E2 6a * 3
247 Wild West Hero E5 6b ** 13
248 Sundance Wall E2 5c *** 87
249 Swift Attack E3 5c *** 40
250 Static Contrasts E5 6b * 1
251 The Stone Tent
-
E2 5b * 10
252 Ripsnorter E2 5b 5
253 Dangerous Acquaintances E6 6b 1
254 Midnight Cowboy E3 5c *** 76
255 New Dawn Fades E5 6a *** 9
256 Motomoron E3 6b 2
257 Motomoron Direct E4 6b 4
258 Limehill E5 6a *** 24
  The Right Wing - Carnage Wall
260 Amber Nectar E6 6b ** 3
261 Greystoke E6 6c **  
262 Sitting Ducks E5 6a 2
263 Stone Tent E2 5c * 2
264 The Macabre
-
E3 5b 6
265 Macabre (pitch 3) E1 5a 1
266 Tarzan E4 6a * 3
267 Forth Coming E5 6b 1
268 Second Coming E5 6b ** 1
269 Carnage E2 5b *** 240
270 Chasing the Dragon E5 6b *** 3
271 More Funky Than Monkey E5 6b ** 2
272 Mulatto Wall E3 5c *** 129
273 Going Ape E5 6a 1
274 Bad Brain E4 6a ** 38
275 El Coronel E5 6b *** 8
276 Third Party Only E6 6b 1
277 Rubble Without a Cause E5 6b 1
278 The Country of Man E4 6b 1
279 Seventh Grade E5 6b * 3
280 Carnage Left-hand E1 5b *** 166
281 Scorpio HVS 5a * 38
282 Scorpio Direct finish
-
HVS 5a * 5
  The Right Wing - Wombat Wall
284 Wind and Wuthering E3 5c ** 58
285 Monkey's Uncle E3 6a * 4
286 Crossbones/East Wall HVS 5a ** 76
287 East Wall Route
-
E2 6a, 5a 27
288 Crossbones E2 5c *** 201
289 Thin Lizzy E5 6b * 1
290 Articulated Loris E5 6a * 3
291 Slender Loris E4 6a *** 107
292 Doubting Thomas E5 6b *** 44
293 The Annihilation Mix E3 6b * 1
294 Wombat E2 5c *** 244
295 Regatta de Blanc E5 6a * 18
296 Clapperclaw E4 6c * 1
297 Cathay Pacific E4 * 5
298 Rounded Horizons E4 5c 2
299 Kirkby Wall HVS 5b ** 156
300 Junkyard Angel HVS 5b *** 207
301 The Kylin HVS 5b ** 53
302 The Cavern HVS 5a * 71
303 Y.A.B.O. E4 6b 1
304 The Cavern Direct
-
E1 5b * 8
305 Limpet E2 10
306 Friday the 13th E3 6a ** 80
307 Daytona E3 5b * 20
308 Vertical Crack E2 5c 2
309 Overhanging Crack HVS 5b 11
310 Just Another Very Severe (Hard) E3 5c  
311 Pikedaw Wall HVS 5a *** 282
312 Olaf HVS 5a * 94
313 Canute E1 5c 5
314 Butterfingers E2 5c 7
315 Clubfoot VS 4c *** 278
316 Swingover VS 5a ** 128
317 Swingover Direct
-
VS 4c * 40
318 Swingside HVS 5b * 10
319 Frivolous VS 5a 8
320 Lightning Crack VS 5a 35
321 Route One VS 4c 14
322 The Right Wing Girdle E2 5c *** 17
323 Pumpwater meets the Hulk E5 6b *** 4
324 Over the Top E7 6c ** 1

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