UKC

Climbs 318
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces S

RichC Highstepping on PuddleJumper on a grey wet summer Sunday © ChrisJD

Crag features

Central Walls of steep compact limestone with the best sport climbing in the Pennines (best grades F7a to F8c). A right wing of superb trad lines with the best routes in the HVS to E4 category. A left wing with worthwhile short,easier routes (S to E1) and short technical but less popular, hard trad up to E5. [Dave Musgrove]

Restricted Access

There is a bolting agreement between the BMC and Malham Parish Council (the landowners) to ensure that the noise of bolting doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experiance of this incredible natural beauty spot. The agreement is for no bolting at weekends, during the main school summer holiday or during the nesting restriction.

Wild camping is not allowed near the Cove or fields around - please use one of the campsites at Riverside or Gordale instead. In addition , please don't park anywhere other than the locations listed in parking below. Following this simple code of conduct is crucially important in maintaining good relations between climbers and the landowner and preventing access problems.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting Peregrines. This year (2018), the restriction has changed due to the birds switching their nest site and applies to Caveat Wall on the Left Wing, from Hangover (route 57 in YMC guide) to The Man and the Myth (route 8) inclusive. The whole of Terrace Wall and all trad routes on the Right Wing to the left of Scorpio are unaffected this year. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period as usual.

When topping out from climbs on the right wing, please move away quickly once both climbers have topped out to avoid disturbing the birds. (This area will be fenced off during nesting season to prevent public access to the top of the crag and large number of people who could disturb the birds - access for climbers exiting the crag is fine providing it is discreet so as not to encourage the public onto the top of the crag. It's also worth mentioning that you will be doing this to the RSPB peregrine watch volunteers if they are present as you walk in to avoid any confusion.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
More info
It'd be great if this was split the same as in Northern Limestone, i.e. upper tier was separated out?
Paul B - 24/Aug/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Left Wing
2 Bobber Boots
-
VD 26
3 Straight Crack
-
HS 65
4 Straight Up
-
VS 4c * 47
5 Pedestal Wall S * 68
6 The Thistle
-
HVS 5b * 29
7 Theist
-
E1 6b 4
8 Th-Rows
-
HVS 5b 10
9 Wall And Crack
-
VD 34
10 Fingers
-
VS 4c 30
11 Crown of Thorns HVS 5b 7
12 Tiara
-
E2 6a 4
13 Coronet Crack
-
HVS 5a 12
14 Crazy Paving
-
VS 4c 36
15 Lost Corner E3 6a 2
16 Reluctant Passenger E3 6a * 3
17 Ringo E5 6c * 2
18 Rage E4 6b * 2
19 Short Groove
-
E2 5c * 11
20 Rose Corner E4 6a 2
21 Memory Lane E3 6a 3
22 The
-
E2 5c * 13
23 Stern VS 4c * 14
24 Autonomy
-
E3 6a * 9
25 Cy-ril S * 16
26 Mistake
-
S 12
27 Dilatory Climb HS 4b * 11
28 Cube Root
-
E1 5b 26
29 One Point Two Six (cube root two) E4 6a * 1
30 Square Root
-
E2 5c * 13
31 Pikestaff
-
VS 5a * 26
32 Flake Wall
-
S ** 62
33 Rook
-
E2 5c 16
34 Crow
-
E1 5c 8
35 Chough HVS 6a 5
36 Magpie HVS 5c 5
37 Jackdaw
-
HVS 5a 9
38 Raven
-
VS 5a 10
39 Night Moves E3 6a * 2
40 Original Route S ** 49
41 Hampster Jam VS 4c 10
42 Wish You Were Here
-
E2 5b * 13
43 Saplink
-
HVS 5b ** 33
44 Box of Tools E3 6a * 3
45 Ship of Fools E4 6b * 1
46 Warspite
-
E3 6a * 12
47 Going Dutch E3 6a * 6
48 Aid E4 6b 1
49 Ephedrine Influx E3 5c 1
50 The Well Oiled Machine E4 6a 1
51 Sarcophagus
-
E3 6a ** 8
52 The Crab HVS 5b * 4
53 Joe Spivey E2 5c 2
54 Majidae E2 5c 2
55 Hangover HVS 5a 9
56 Vagabond
-
E2 5c * 11
57 Chrysalis E2 5c 2
58 Shining Usu E2 5b 2
59 Birgus Latro E5 6a 1
60 The Dalesman
-
VS 4c 6
61 Percy Thrower HVS 5a 1
  Beck Wall
63 Big Drip HVS 5b 4
64 Rain Drops
-
E4 6b 3
65 Rain Dances
-
E4 6a 2
66 Rodney's Route
-
E2 5b * 11
67 The Pink Pinky Goes to Malham E3 6a 10
68 Bolts Screw You Up
-
E3 6a 6
  The Catwalk
70 Brilliant, Brilliant 6c 91
71 Bon-Appetite 7b * 10
72 The Highlife 7b+ * 10
73 Just Not in Lust 7c ** 12
74 Mighty Fine Ass 7c+ *** 15
75 Appetite 7a+ ** 322
76 Mule Variation 7b * 55
77 Henry's Route 7c+ ** 15
78 Yosemite Wall 7a+ *** 393
79 Obligatory Finish 7b+ 6b 2
80 Against the Grain 7a+ ** 183
81 Against the Wall 7a 14
82 Taking the Space 7b *** 127
83 Taking the Rise E4 6a * 3
84 Hands of Time 7c * 4
85 Space Race 7b+ *** 199
86 Space Invaders 7c+ ** 39
87 Tremelo 7c *** 136
88 The Minimum 7a+ * 78
89 Minimum Fuss 7c ** 11
90 Mescalito 7c+ *** 129
91 New Dawn 7c *** 242
92 Twisted 8a ** 3
93 Vogue 7c+ ** 7
94 Lovatt Link 8a ** 1
95 Baboo-Baboo 8a *** 62
96 Straightened 8a ** 28
97 Straight Jacket 8b 2
98 G.B.H. 8a+ *** 74
99 A.B.H. 8a+ 4
100 Zoolook 8a *** 120
101 Well Dunne Finish 8b *** 5
102 Predator 8b *** 53
103 Sabotage 8c+  
104 The Terminator 8b+ ***  
105 Cry Freedom 8c *** 5
106 Something for Nothing 8c ** 1
107 The Great Escape 8b+ *** 2
108 Mid Ledge Spread 8a+ ** 14
109 The Maximum 7c+ ** 60
Climb name Grade
110 Austrian Oak 8b *** 30
111 Magnetic Fields 8b ** 12
112 Overnite Sensation 8a+ ** 56
113 Overshadow 9a+ ***  
114 Piggy Bank Wall A3 *** 2
115 Energy Vampire 8a+ * 15
116 Connect 4 8a ** 34
117 Connect 5 8a+ ** 3
118 Raindogs 8a *** 244
119 Rainshadow 9a *** 6
120 Rainman 9b ***  
121 Chiselling the Dragon 7c * 97
122 The Directissima A2 13
123 Seventh Aardvark 7b ** 358
124 Seventh Dragon 7b+ ** 13
125 Bat Route 8c *** 14
126 Batman 9a ***  
127 Bat Shadow 8c+ ***  
128 Raining Bats and Dogs 8c *** 4
129 Rated PG 7a+ * 240
130 Consenting Adults 7a ** 997
131 Thriller 7c+ 18
132 Victor Hugo 8b *** 1
133 Personal Services 7b * 124
134 Free and Even Easier 7a+ ** 505
135 Idefix 8b *** 1
136 Bongo Fury 7b ** 131
137 Something Stupid 7b * 286
138 Totally Free 8b ***  
139 Totally Free II 8b *** 3
140 The Groove 8a+ *** 37
141 Groovy Baby 8a ** 8
142 Unjustified 8b+ *** 12
143 Overjustified
-
8c *** 2
144 The Superdirectissima A2 *** 9
145 King Swing A2 ** 6
146 Chocolate Logger 7c * 23
147 Scavenger 8a * 6
148 Wasted Youth 7b ** 212
149 Power Ranger 8b+ *** 1
150 Rose Coronary 7a ** 792
151 Transformer 8c **  
152 Queen of Harts 7c * 10
153 Hartley Hare 7a+ ** 278
154 Hardly There 6c+ * 35
155 Puddle Jumper 7a+ * 451
156 Betty Bullwhip 7a+ 9
157 Snidely Whiplash 7a+ 8
158 Dudley D-Good 7b 9
159 Just Another Dead End Job 7a * 203
160 A Career with Prospects E5 6a * 23
161 Extra Over E4 6a * 75
162 Bolt Revolt 7a * 155
163 Afterburn E4 6a * 46
164 Sycophants 7a * 329
165 Skyjack 7c+ * 4
166 Brooklyn Girls 7a * 195
167 Frankenstein 7a+ ** 365
168 The Under Dunn Start 7b * 9
169 Whodunnit 6c+ * 32
170 Baba O'Riley 8a * 1
171 Begozi and the Ledge Lizards 6a+ 405
172 Redpoint No Point E5 6b 5
173 The Angel Gabriella 7b+ * 15
174 Burning Rubber Necklace 7a * 49
175 Soweto Sunset
-
7a ** 12
176 Vociferous Fledglings 6c+ * 16
177 The Scene of the Crime 6c * 62
178 Brain Dead Dave
-
E4 6a 2
179 Hyperspace 6b+ * 81
180 Hyperactive Housewife E3 6a 1
  Upper Wall - Left
182 Romance and Reality E5 6a * 3
183 Douk E3 5c 2
184 Scaremonger E4 6a 1
185 Codicil E5 6a 1
186 Caveat E5 6b 2
187 Cadenza/Commorient 7b ** 1
188 Cadenza
-
7a+ ** 6
189 Commorient E5 6b 2
190 The Man and the Myth 7c+ **  
191 The Moon's Apprentice 7a 4
192 Crash Dive E5 6b 1
193 Local Hero 7c+ *** 2
194 Local Roof 8a *** 1
195 Niagara 8a+ ***  
196 Soft Centre 7b+ * 5
197 Rive Gauche 7b+ * 2
  Upper Wall - Right
199 Centrespread E5 6b ** 1
200 Free and Easy 7c ** 48
201 An Uneasy Peace 7c+ ** 5
202 Renaissance 8a *** 6
203 Breach of the Peace 8a *** 4
204 Climb of the Century 8a+ *** 3
205 L'Ob Session 7c+ *** 46
206 Obsession 7b+ *** 237
207 Total Eclipse 8c+ *** 1
208 The New Age Traveller 8a *** 49
209 N'Obsession 7c+ ** 4
210 Herbie 7c+ *** 115
211 Conehead 8a+ ** 6
212 Main Overhang 8a ** 35
213 Main Overhang (aid) A2 ** 21
214 Toadal Recall 8a ** 64
215 Toadal Recall 2.0 8a+ **  
216 The Toad of Beck Hall 7b+ * 41
217 The Reign is Over 8c  
218 Toad Licker 7c * 12
Climb name Grade
219 Toadally Cool 8a+ 1
220 Serious Young Toads 7c ** 17
221 The Last Toad 7b+ * 37
222 Conceptual 7b * 14
223 Conceptual Continuity 8a ** 3
224 The Last Waltz 7a+ ** 40
225 Seventh Toad E6 6b * 7
226 Gorgan Direct E5 6b ** 14
227 Gorgan Directish E4 6b ** 12
228 Duck Dive E5 6b * 30
229 Jilted John E5 6a 1
230 Gravity 7b * 22
231 Wicked Gravity 8b **  
232 Donald Ducked E5 6b 9
233 Laughter 7c+  
  The Terrace
235 Letterbox Wall VS 4c 16
236 Terrace Crack HVS 5c 16
237 The Thin Crack E1 6a 3
238 Problem Wall E2 6a 2
239 Terrace Stairway D 7
240 Cove Crack E3 6a 4
241 Good Crack E4 6c  
242 Ivy Corner VS 4b 16
243 Grandfather Clock E2 6a * 8
244 Butch Cassidy E4 6b ** 13
245 Cat on a Hot Tin Roof E5 6b 4
246 Black Dyke E3 5c * 21
247 Terrace Wall VS 5a ** 71
248 Terrace Wall Direct E2 6a * 3
249 Wild West Hero E5 6b ** 13
250 Sundance Wall E2 5c *** 93
251 Swift Attack E3 5c *** 44
252 Static Contrasts E5 6b * 1
253 The Stone Tent
-
E2 5b * 12
254 Ripsnorter E2 5b 6
255 Dangerous Acquaintances E6 6b 1
256 Midnight Cowboy E3 5c *** 79
257 New Dawn Fades E5 6a *** 10
258 Motomoron E3 6b 3
259 Motomoron Direct E4 6b 4
260 Limehill E5 6a *** 26
  The Right Wing - Carnage Wall
262 Amber Nectar E6 6b ** 3
263 Greystoke E6 6c **  
264 Sitting Ducks E5 6a 2
265 Stone Tent E2 5c * 3
266 The Macabre
-
E3 5b 7
267 Macabre (pitch 3) E1 5a 1
268 Tarzan E4 6a * 3
269 Forth Coming E5 6b 1
270 Second Coming E5 6b ** 1
271 Carnage E2 5b *** 219
272 Chasing the Dragon E5 6b *** 3
273 More Funky Than Monkey E5 6b ** 2
274 Mulatto Wall E3 5c *** 129
275 Going Ape E5 6a 1
276 Bad Brain E4 6a ** 43
277 El Coronel E5 6b *** 6
278 Third Party Only E6 6b 1
279 Rubble Without a Cause E5 6b 1
280 The Country of Man E4 6b 1
281 Seventh Grade E5 6b * 3
282 Carnage Left-hand E1 5b *** 174
283 Scorpio HVS 5a * 40
284 Scorpio Direct finish
-
HVS 5a * 6
  The Right Wing - Wombat Wall
286 Wind and Wuthering E3 5c ** 61
287 Monkey's Uncle E3 6a * 5
288 Crossbones/East Wall HVS 5a ** 74
289 East Wall Route
-
E2 6a, 5a 29
290 Crossbones E2 5c *** 210
291 Thin Lizzy E5 6b * 1
292 Articulated Loris E5 6a * 3
293 Slender Loris E4 6a *** 110
294 Doubting Thomas E5 6b *** 45
295 The Annihilation Mix E3 6b * 1
296 Wombat E2 5c *** 246
297 Regatta de Blanc E5 6a * 20
298 Clapperclaw E4 6c * 1
299 Cathay Pacific E4 * 6
300 Rounded Horizons E4 5c 3
301 Kirkby Wall HVS 5b ** 158
302 Junkyard Angel HVS 5b *** 207
303 The Kylin HVS 5b ** 56
304 The Cavern HVS 5a * 72
305 Y.A.B.O. E4 6b 1
306 The Cavern Direct
-
E1 5b * 9
307 Limpet E2 12
308 Friday the 13th E3 6a ** 83
309 Daytona E3 5b * 25
310 Vertical Crack E2 5c 3
311 Overhanging Crack HVS 5b 11
312 Just Another Very Severe (Hard) E3 5c  
313 Pikedaw Wall HVS 5a *** 278
314 Olaf HVS 5a * 99
315 Canute E1 5c 6
316 Butterfingers E2 5c 9
317 Clubfoot VS 4c *** 277
318 Swingover VS 5a ** 127
319 Swingover Direct
-
VS 4c * 41
320 Swingside HVS 5b * 10
321 Frivolous VS 5a 8
322 Lightning Crack VS 5a 36
323 Route One VS 4c 16
324 The Right Wing Girdle E2 5c *** 17
325 Pumpwater meets the Hulk E5 6b *** 5
326 Over the Top E7 6c ** 1

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