Climbs 316
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces S

RichC Highstepping on PuddleJumper on a grey wet summer Sunday © ChrisJD

Crag features

Central Walls of steep compact limestone with the best sport climbing in the Pennines (best grades F7a to F8c). A right wing of superb trad lines with the best routes in the HVS to E4 category. A left wing with worthwhile short,easier routes (S to E1) and short technical but less popular, hard trad up to E5. [Dave Musgrove]

Restricted Access

There is a bolting agreement between the BMC and Malham Parish Council (the landowners) to ensure that the noise of bolting doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experiance of this incredible natural beauty spot. The agreement is for no bolting at weekends, during the main school summer holiday or during the nesting restriction.

Wild camping is not allowed near the Cove or fields around - please use one of the campsites at Riverside or Gordale instead. In addition , please don't park anywhere other than the locations listed in parking below. Following this simple code of conduct is crucially important in maintaining good relations between climbers and the landowner and preventing access problems.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting Peregrines. The restriction applies to Caveat Wall on the Left Wing, from Hangover (route 57 in YMC guide) to The Man and the Myth (route 8) inclusive. The whole of Terrace Wall and all trad routes on the Right Wing to the left of Scorpio are unaffected this year.

When topping out from climbs on the left wing, please move away quickly once both climbers have topped out to avoid disturbing the birds. (This area will be fenced off during nesting season to prevent public access to the top of the crag and large number of people who could disturb the birds - access for climbers exiting the crag is fine providing it is discreet so as not to encourage the public onto the top of the crag. It's also worth mentioning that you will be doing this to the RSPB peregrine watch volunteers if they are present as you walk in to avoid any confusion.

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Guidebooks

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
More info
It'd be great if this was split the same as in Northern Limestone, i.e. upper tier was separated out?
Paul B - 24/Aug/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Left Wing 
2Bobber Boots
-
VD 23
3Straight Crack
-
HS 62
4Straight Up
-
VS 4c *44
5Pedestal WallS *66
6The Thistle
-
HVS 5b *25
7Theist
-
E1 6b 4
8Th-Rows
-
HVS 5b 10
9Wall And Crack
-
VD 31
10Fingers
-
VS 4c 28
11Crown of ThornsHVS 5b 6
12Tiara
-
E2 6a 4
13Coronet Crack
-
HVS 5a 10
14Crazy Paving
-
VS 4c 33
15Lost CornerE3 6a 2
16Reluctant PassengerE3 6a *2
17RingoE5 6c *2
18RageE4 6b *2
19Short Groove
-
E2 5c *9
20Rose CornerE4 6a 2
21Memory LaneE3 6a 3
22The
-
E2 5c *10
23SternVS 4c *12
24Autonomy
-
E3 6a *7
25Cy-rilS *16
26Mistake
-
S 12
27Dilatory ClimbHS 4b *11
28Cube Root
-
E1 5b 23
29One Point Two Six (cube root two)E4 6a *1
30Square Root
-
E2 5c *12
31Pikestaff
-
VS 5a *25
32Flake Wall
-
S **59
33Rook
-
E2 5c 14
34Crow
-
E1 5c 7
35ChoughHVS 6a 4
36MagpieHVS 5c 4
37Jackdaw
-
HVS 5a 8
38Raven
-
VS 5a 9
39Night MovesE3 6a *2
40Original RouteS **48
41Hampster JamVS 4c 9
42Wish You Were Here
-
E2 5b *12
43Saplink
-
HVS 5b **29
44Box of ToolsE3 6a *2
45Ship of FoolsE4 6b *1
46Warspite
-
E3 6a *10
47Going DutchE3 6a *3
48AidE4 6b 1
49Ephedrine InfluxE3 5c 1
50The Well Oiled MachineE4 6a 1
51Sarcophagus
-
E3 6a **6
52The CrabHVS 5b *4
53Joe SpiveyE2 5c 2
54MajidaeE2 5c 2
55HangoverHVS 5a 8
56Vagabond
-
E2 5c *8
57ChrysalisE2 5c 2
58Shining UsuE2 5b 2
59Birgus LatroE5 6a 1
60The Dalesman
-
VS 4c 5
61Percy ThrowerHVS 5a 1
 Beck Wall 
63Big DripHVS 5b 4
64Rain Drops
-
E4 6b 3
65Rain Dances
-
E4 6a 2
66Rodney's Route
-
E2 5b *9
67The Pink Pinky Goes to MalhamE3 6a 10
68Bolts Screw You Up
-
E3 6a 4
 The Catwalk 
70Brilliant, Brilliant6c 85
71Bon-Appetite7b *6
72The Highlife7b+ *9
73Just Not in Lust7c **11
74Mighty Fine Ass7c+ ***13
75Appetite7a+ **313
76Mule Variation7b *52
77Henry's Route7c+ **13
78Yosemite Wall7a+ ***444
79Obligatory Finish7b+ 6b 2
80Against the Grain7a+ **182
81Against the Wall7a 12
82Taking the Space7b ***133
83Taking the RiseE4 6a *3
84Hands of Time7c *4
85Space Race7b+ ***194
86Space Invaders7c+ **36
87Tremelo7c ***146
88The Minimum7a+ *75
89Minimum Fuss7c **11
90Mescalito7c+ ***135
91New Dawn7c ***286
92Twisted8a **3
93Vogue7c+ **7
94Lovatt Link8a **1
95Baboo-Baboo8a ***69
96Straightened8a **28
97Straight Jacket8b 2
98G.B.H.8a+ ***69
99A.B.H.8a+ 3
100Zoolook8a ***118
101Well Dunne Finish8b ***5
102Predator8b ***68
103Sabotage8c+  
104The Terminator8b+ *** 
105Cry Freedom8c ***10
106Something for Nothing8c **1
107The Great Escape8b+ ***4
108Mid Ledge Spread8a+ **14
109The Maximum7c+ **56
110Austrian Oak8b ***28
111Magnetic Fields8b **15
112Overnite Sensation8a+ **52
113Overshadow9a+ *** 
114Piggy Bank WallA3 ***2
115Energy Vampire8a+ *15
116Connect 48a **27
117Connect 58a+ **3
118Raindogs8a ***227
119Rainshadow9a ***6
120Rainman9b *** 
121Chiselling the Dragon7c *91
122The DirectissimaA2 11
123Seventh Aardvark7b **336
124Seventh Dragon7b+ **9
125Bat Route8c ***13
126Batman9a *** 
127Bat Shadow8c+ *** 
128Raining Bats and Dogs8c ***4
129Rated PG7a+ *224
130Consenting Adults7a **975
131Thriller7c+ 16
132Victor Hugo8b ***1
133Personal Services7b *111
134Free and Even Easier7a+ **488
135Idefix8b *** 
136Bongo Fury7b **124
137Something Stupid7b *277
138Totally Free8b *** 
139Totally Free II8b ***3
140The Groove8a+ ***56
141Groovy Baby8a **8
142Unjustified8b+ ***12
143Overjustified
-
8c ***2
144The SuperdirectissimaA2 ***13
145King SwingA2 **4
146Chocolate Logger7c *21
147Scavenger8a *4
148Wasted Youth7b **199
149Power Ranger8b+ ***1
150Rose Coronary7a **783
151Transformer8c ** 
152Queen of Harts7c *10
153Hartley Hare7a+ **274
154Hardly There6c+ *34
155Puddle Jumper7a+ *435
156Betty Bullwhip7a+ 9
157Snidely Whiplash7a+ 7
158Dudley D-Good7b 7
159Just Another Dead End Job7a *191
160A Career with ProspectsE5 6a *20
161Extra OverE4 6a *57
162Bolt Revolt7a *142
163AfterburnE4 6a *41
164Sycophants7a *319
165Skyjack7c+ *4
166Brooklyn Girls7a *186
167Frankenstein7a+ **357
168The Under Dunn Start7b *6
169Whodunnit6c+ *29
170Baba O'Riley8a *1
171Begozi and the Ledge Lizards6a+ 393
172Redpoint No PointE5 6b 5
173The Angel Gabriella7b+ *15
174Burning Rubber Necklace7a *46
175Soweto Sunset
-
7a **9
176Vociferous Fledglings6c+ *14
177The Scene of the Crime6c *59
178Brain Dead Dave
-
E4 6a 2
179Hyperspace6b+ *78
180Hyperactive HousewifeE3 6a  
 Upper Wall - Left 
182Romance and RealityE5 6a *2
183DoukE3 5c 2
184ScaremongerE4 6a 1
185CodicilE5 6a 1
186CaveatE5 6b 2
187Cadenza/Commorient7b **1
188Cadenza
-
7a+ **6
189CommorientE5 6b 2
190The Man and the Myth7c+ ** 
191The Moon's Apprentice7a 3
192Crash DiveE5 6b 1
193Local Hero7c+ ***2
194Local Roof8a ***1
195Niagara8a+ *** 
196Soft Centre7b+ *5
197Rive Gauche7b+ *2
 Upper Wall - Right 
199CentrespreadE5 6b **1
200Free and Easy7c **43
201An Uneasy Peace7c+ **5
202Renaissance8a ***6
203Breach of the Peace8a ***4
204Climb of the Century8a+ ***2
205L'Ob Session7c+ ***39
206Obsession7b+ ***268
207Total Eclipse8c+ ***1
208The New Age Traveller8a ***47
209N'Obsession7c+ **4
210Herbie7c+ ***113
211Conehead8a+ **4
212Main Overhang8a **36
213Main Overhang (aid)A2 **19
214Toadal Recall8a **60
215The Toad of Beck Hall7b+ *38
216Toad Licker7c *10
217Toadally Cool8a+  
218Serious Young Toads7c **15
219The Last Toad7b+ *35
220Conceptual7b *11
221Conceptual Continuity8a **3
222The Last Waltz7a+ **37
223Seventh ToadE6 6b *7
224Gorgan DirectE5 6b **11
225Gorgan DirectishE4 6b **11
226Duck DiveE5 6b *25
227Jilted JohnE5 6a 1
228Gravity7b *20
229Wicked Gravity8b ** 
230Donald DuckedE5 6b 9
231Laughter7c+  
 The Terrace 
233Letterbox WallVS 4c 14
234Terrace CrackHVS 5c 15
235The Thin CrackE1 6a 3
236Problem WallE2 6a 1
237Terrace StairwayD 7
238Cove CrackE3 6a 3
239Good CrackE4 6c  
240Ivy CornerVS 4b 15
241Grandfather ClockE2 6a *6
242Butch CassidyE4 6b **12
243Cat on a Hot Tin RoofE5 6b 4
244Black DykeE3 5c *16
245Terrace WallVS 5a **66
246Terrace Wall DirectE2 6a *3
247Wild West HeroE5 6b **13
248Sundance WallE2 5c ***86
249Swift AttackE3 5c ***40
250Static ContrastsE5 6b *1
251The Stone Tent
-
E2 5b *10
252RipsnorterE2 5b 5
253Dangerous AcquaintancesE6 6b 1
254Midnight CowboyE3 5c ***75
255New Dawn FadesE5 6a ***9
256MotomoronE3 6b 2
257Motomoron DirectE4 6b 4
258LimehillE5 6a ***24
 The Right Wing - Carnage Wall 
260Amber NectarE6 6b **3
261GreystokeE6 6c ** 
262Sitting DucksE5 6a 2
263Stone TentE2 5c *2
264The Macabre
-
E3 5b 6
265Macabre (pitch 3)E1 5a 1
266TarzanE4 6a *3
267Forth ComingE5 6b 1
268Second ComingE5 6b **1
269CarnageE2 5b ***237
270Chasing the DragonE5 6b ***3
271More Funky Than MonkeyE5 6b **2
272Mulatto WallE3 5c ***125
273Going ApeE5 6a 1
274Bad BrainE4 6a **38
275El CoronelE5 6b ***8
276Third Party OnlyE6 6b 1
277Rubble Without a CauseE5 6b 1
278The Country of ManE4 6b 1
279Seventh GradeE5 6b *3
280Carnage Left-handE1 5b ***165
281ScorpioHVS 5a *38
282Scorpio Direct finish
-
HVS 5a *5
 The Right Wing - Wombat Wall 
284Wind and WutheringE3 5c **54
285Monkey's UncleE3 6a *4
286Crossbones/East WallHVS 5a **69
287East Wall Route
-
E2 6a, 5a 27
288CrossbonesE2 5c ***198
289Thin LizzyE5 6b *1
290Articulated LorisE5 6a *3
291Slender LorisE4 6a ***105
292Doubting ThomasE5 6b ***43
293The Annihilation MixE3 6b *1
294WombatE2 5c ***242
295Regatta de BlancE5 6a *18
296ClapperclawE4 6c *1
297Cathay PacificE4 *5
298Rounded HorizonsE4 5c 2
299Kirkby WallHVS 5b **155
300Junkyard AngelHVS 5b ***204
301The KylinHVS 5b **53
302The CavernHVS 5a *71
303Y.A.B.O.E4 6b 1
304The Cavern Direct
-
E1 5b *7
305LimpetE2 10
306Friday the 13thE3 6a **76
307DaytonaE3 5b *20
308Vertical CrackE2 5c 2
309Overhanging CrackHVS 5b 11
310Just Another Very Severe (Hard)E3 5c  
311Pikedaw WallHVS 5a ***276
312OlafHVS 5a *94
313CanuteE1 5c 5
314ButterfingersE2 5c 7
315ClubfootVS 4c ***278
316SwingoverVS 5a **128
317Swingover Direct
-
VS 4c *40
318SwingsideHVS 5b *10
319FrivolousVS 5a 8
320Lightning CrackVS 5a 35
321Route OneVS 4c 14
322The Right Wing GirdleE2 5c ***17
323Pumpwater meets the HulkE5 6b ***4
324Over the TopE7 6c **1

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