Climbs 166
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

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Steve Boote on Centrefold © Jez Finnan

Crag features

A mixture of rock-types, not dissimilar to that of Gogarth South Stack.
Focus is on single-pitch Extremes with big Gogarth feel, yet without the grip-factor experienced elsewhere on the Gogarth cliffs. A selection of fine easier-grade climbs exist too. Mainly single pitch routes to 50 metres.

Approach notes

Follow A5 across Anglesey, and turn left at the traffic lights at Valley. Follow the road to Four Mile Bridge. Tak ethe first turning left beyond the bridge and follow the narrow road for about 2.5 km and park outside Rhoscolyn Church (SH268757). Take care as to not block the passage of any vehicles. Walk back about 20 metres to a gate on the left of the church and follow a farm track (cars NOT allowed) across a field and between some buildings before a closed gate and slight rise lead to a Coastguard Lookout post. The Lookout crags lie directly behind the building, whilst about 500 metres away on the right, the top of Llawder and the main climbing area are clearly visible.

Declared an SSSI, Rhoscolyn is an area of outstanding geological interest.

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Gogarth South (2015)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Gogarth (1990)
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sea Cave Zawn
2 Symphony Crack D *** 423
3 Fear Test
-
E3 5b * 7
4 Daddy on Sight
-
E3 5c  
5 Fan Fare HVS 4c ** 132
6 Hi,Jack!
-
VS 4b 24
7 Flobalob
-
HVS 4c 3
8 Electric Blue E4 5c *** 180
9 Galleon E4 5c ** 1
10 Solo Suprise
-
S 2
11 Kissing the Pink
-
E3 5c * 23
12 Solo Slab
-
D * 35
13 Round the Horn E5 6a * 9
14 In to The Deep
-
E2 5b 1
15 Eric
-
E1 5b  
16 Wellectic
-
E4 6a  
17 Tomorrow has Been Cancelled (Due to Lack of Interest)
-
VS 4c * 19
18 Tetrion
-
E1 5a 2
19 Triffids
-
VS 4c 5
20 Ciment Fondue
-
E2 5b * 6
21 Aquaseal
-
E1 5b 2
22 Tomorrow is Reinstated
-
E1 5b 2
  Fallen Block Zawn
24 The Motombo
-
E3 5c * 4
25 The Tum Tum Tree E5 6a ** 1
26 Magellan's Wall
-
E5 6a *** 66
27 Gimble in the Wabe E7 6b *** 4
28 Dreams and Screams E6 6b *** 26
29 The Viper E4 5c ** 59
30 Godzilla E4 5c ** 90
31 Centrefold E3 5c *** 184
32 The Frumious Bandersnatch E7 6c ***  
33 The Jub-Jub Bird
-
E6 6b *** 9
34 The Trail of Tears
-
E4 6a *** 47
35 E.P.Special
-
E3 6a 1
36 Drunk on Arrival
-
E4 6a * 9
37 The Absconders Finish
-
HVS 5b * 15
38 Truant Right Hand
-
E2 5b 8
39 Truant VS 4c ** 258
40 Sea Shanty
-
VS 4c 16
41 S.... Hawk Alley
-
D 15
42 The Trip
-
VS 4c 10
43 Human Camel
-
VS 5a 11
44 Baggers Crack
-
S 44
  Llawder Zawn
46 Rhos Beef E4 6a * 1
47 Helios
-
E5 6b  
48 Waxwing E1 5b 26
49 Cocaine
-
E1 5b 15
50 Little Queenie E1 5b ** 74
51 The Wild Rover E1 5b ** 419
52 Mainlinin'
-
E4 6a 2
53 Lacking Testicular Stature E4 1
54 Conquistadores E2 5b * 10
55 El Dorado
-
E1 66
56 The Mask of the Red Death E3 5c ** 276
57 Warpath E5 6a *** 218
Climb name Grade
58 Too Hard For Young Men E7 6b,6c 1
59 Warpath-Sun Combination E3 5c ** 15
60 Warpath Direct E6 6a *** 3
61 The Sun E3 5c *** 453
62 Shine On You Crazy Diamond E6 6b ** 2
63 Big Boys on the Warpath E5 6a 1
64 Big Boys
-
E5 6a ** 42
65 Bigger Girls E6 6b ** 10
66 Icarus HVS 5a ** 649
67 Sundance E2 5b  
68 Takahe E1 5a * 85
69 Takahe (P2a ArĂȘte finish variation) E2 5b * 26
70 Medicine Man
-
E4 6a 3
71 The Savage Sunbird E2 5b ** 508
72 Cocktail Trip Direct E4 6a * 21
73 The Cocktail Trip
-
E4 5c 28
74 Adrenalin
-
E3 5c 4
75 Sunset Slab
-
VD 11
76 Serpant
-
HVS 5b 2
77 The Cruel Sea HVS 5a * 10
78 Generation Gap
-
HVS 5a 4
79 Corner climb
-
D  
  Black Zawn
81 Toccata Crack
-
VD 21
82 Crack and Corner VD 13
83 Patella
-
S 3
84 Blackbits
-
HS 5
85 Slab And Scoop
-
VD 8
86 You're no Nelson
-
VD ** 9
87 Perfectly Pointless
-
HS 4a 2
88 A Bridge Too Far
-
VD 5
89 Sonata Crack D 2
90 January Jaunts
-
D 1
91 Serpent
-
HVS 5b 2
  Porth Saint
93 My Violent Desire E7 6c ** 1
94 Surreal Appeal
-
E7 6b *  
95 Easel-EE
-
E7 6c *  
96 Treasure Island HVD 9
97 Bow Planes
-
HS 4b 7
98 Neptune's Nuts E1 5c 2
99 Seraphim HVS 5a 13
100 Up Periscope HS 4b 8
101 Conning Tower HS 4b 7
102 Torpedo Tubes
-
S 4a 8
103 Nine Extractions HVS 5a 11
104 Leviathon
-
E2 5c 2
105 Nostromo VS 5a 4
106 Jesters
-
HS 4b 8
107 The Mole Catcher
-
S 4a 8
108 Joker's Wall
-
VS 4c 8
109 Jack of Clubs
-
VS 4c 7
110 Going Blind
-
VS 4c 4
111 Queen of Hearts
-
VS 4c 20
112 Watership Clown
-
S 4a * 55
113 The Death of The Witch E1 5a 38
114 Eliminate E1
-
E1 5b  
Climb name Grade
115 Sea Spray Wall VS 4b/c * 43
116 For the Girl Who Makes Hats
-
HVS 5a * 27
117 Letters Through the Mail
-
S 4a * 47
118 Time and Tide Wait for No Man
-
VS 4c 14
119 The Watchtower HVS 5a 27
120 For Whom the Light Shines
-
HVS 5b 8
121 Out of Gas
-
D 14
122 Pink-Hippo-Camp-Bus VS 4c 12
123 The Cormorant
-
VS 4c 4
124 Rhino
-
VS 4b 8
125 Slippery When Wet
-
VS 4a 4
126 Claustraphobia Gully
-
D 10
127 Fear of Sharp Things
-
E1 5a 14
128 Aviophobia
-
HS 4b 9
129 Catapaphobia
-
VS 4c 13
130 The Lineback Offensive
-
E1 5b 10
131 Hydrophobia 2
-
E2 5b *  
132 Autophobia
-
HVS 4c * 1
133 Hydrophobia 1
-
E2 5b * 1
134 Nige's Ramp
-
E2 5b * 3
135 Nige's Arete
-
E1 5a 9
136 The Vipper
-
E1 5b * 2
137 Darjeeling
-
VS 5a 3
138 Maelstrom in a Teacup
-
VS 4c 3
139 Coffee Black and Egg White
-
HVS 5a  
140 Tidal Threats
-
E5 6a *  
141 Grasp on Reality
-
E1 5a *  
142 The Sea Shall Not Have Them
-
HVS 5a 2
143 Generation Gap
-
E1 5b 3
144 White Water Wall
-
E2 5c  
145 The Mutiny VS 4b  
146 Missing Presumed Dead
-
E5 6b *  
147 December Days
-
VS  
148 A Friend in Need
-
VD  
149 Unnamed
-
VS 4c  
150 The Smiling Coastguard
-
HVS 5a  
151 Scorpion
-
HVS 5a 3
152 Applegate Crack *
-
HS 4a 12
153 War Wounds *
-
E1 5b 8
154 Cheatin' Gets it Faster * none e1 1
155 It Ain't Fast Food *
-
E2 5c 3
156 Trafalgar * HS 4a 1
157 Malarkey * VS 4c 1
158 Jack of All Trades * VS 4c 5
159 Cake Walk * S 4a 5
160 Muff Divers * VS 4b 2
161 Coral * VD 2
162 Chuck Connors * E1 5b *  
163 Daft Apex * HS  
164 Dolphin * M  
165 Staring at the Sun * E7 6c * 2
166 Saltheart *
-
E5 6a ** 2
167 Behind Closed Doors *
-
E1 5c ** 2
168 A Very Steep Young Man *
-
E5 6b ** 2
169 Faslane * HS 4b 1
170 Tulips on the Organ * VD 2
171 Flashbacks * HS 4b 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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