Climbs 149
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

Steve Boote on Centrefold © Jez Finnan

Crag features

A mixture of rock-types, not dissimilar to that of Gogarth South Stack.
Focus is on single-pitch Extremes with big Gogarth feel, yet without the grip-factor experienced elsewhere on the Gogarth cliffs. A selection of fine easier-grade climbs exist too. Mainly single pitch routes to 50 metres.

Approach notes

Follow A5 across Anglesey, and turn left at the traffic lights at Valley. Follow the road to Four Mile Bridge. Tak ethe first turning left beyond the bridge and follow the narrow road for about 2.5 km and park outside Rhoscolyn Church (SH268757). Take care as to not block the passage of any vehicles. Walk back about 20 metres to a gate on the left of the church and follow a farm track (cars NOT allowed) across a field and between some buildings before a closed gate and slight rise lead to a Coastguard Lookout post. The Lookout crags lie directly behind the building, whilst about 500 metres away on the right, the top of Llawder and the main climbing area are clearly visible.

Declared an SSSI, Rhoscolyn is an area of outstanding geological interest.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Gogarth South (2015)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Gogarth (1990)
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sea Cave Zawn
2 Symphony Crack D *** 359
3 Fear Test
-
E3 5b * 6
4 Daddy on Sight
-
E3 5c  
5 Fan Fare HVS 4c ** 78
6 Hi,Jack!
-
VS 4b 15
7 Flobalob
-
HVS 4c 2
8 Electric Blue E4 5c *** 232
9 Solo Suprise
-
S 1
10 Kissing the Pink E3 5c * 18
11 Solo Slab
-
D * 26
12 Round the Horn E5 6a * 5
13 In to The Deep
-
E2 5b 1
14 Eric
-
E1 5b 1
15 Wellectic
-
E4 6a  
16 Tomorrow has Been Cancelled (Due to Lack of Interest)
-
VS 4c * 17
17 Tetrion
-
E1 5a 2
18 Triffids
-
VS 4c 4
19 Ciment Fondue
-
E2 5b * 3
20 Aquaseal
-
E1 5b 2
21 Tomorrow is Reinstated
-
E1 5b 2
22 The Motombo
-
E3 5c * 2
23 The Tum Tum Tree E5 6a  
24 Magellan's Wall
-
E4 6a *** 61
25 Gimble in the Wabe E7 6b *** 3
26 The Frumious Bandersnatch E7 6c ***  
27 The Jub-Jub Bird
-
E6 6b *** 8
28 The Trail of Tears
-
E4 6a *** 35
29 E.P.Special
-
E3 6a 1
30 Drunk on Arrival
-
E3 6a * 6
  Fallen Block Zawn
32 Truant VS 4c ** 186
33 The Viper E4 5c ** 42
34 Godzilla E4 5c ** 88
35 Centrefold E3 5c *** 141
36 Dreams and Screams E6 6b *** 20
37 Sea Shanty
-
VS 4c 17
38 S.... Hawk Alley
-
D 12
39 The Trip
-
VS 4c 8
40 Human Camel
-
VS 5a 9
41 Baggers Crack
-
S 33
42 Helios
-
E5 6b  
43 Cocaine
-
E1 5b 8
  Llawder Zawn
45 Little Queenie E1 5b ** 54
46 The Wild Rover E1 5b ** 326
47 Mainlinin'
-
E4 6a 2
48 El Dorado
-
E1 24
49 The Mask of the Red Death E3 5c ** 211
50 Warpath E5 6a *** 192
51 The Sun E3 5c *** 369
52 Big Boys on the Warpath E5 6a 1
53 Big Boys
-
E5 6a 16
54 Shine On You Crazy Diamond E6 6b ** 1
55 Medicine Man
-
E4 6a 1
56 Icarus HVS 5a ** 482
57 Daedalus E1 5a * 30
58 The Savage Sunbird E2 5b ** 377
59 The Cocktail Trip
-
E4 5c 20
60 Adrenalin
-
E3 5c 3
61 Sunset Slab
-
VD 11
62 Waxwing E1 5b 16
63 Serpant
-
HVS 5b 2
64 The Cruel Sea HVS 5a * 10
65 Generation Gap
-
HVS 5a 3
66 Corner climb
-
D  
  Black Zawn
68 Toccata Crack
-
VD 21
69 Crack and Corner VD 6
70 Patella
-
S 3
71 Blackbits
-
HS 5
72 Conquistadores E2 5b * 5
73 Rhos Beef E4 6a * 1
74 Slab And Scoop
-
VD 4
75 You're no Nelson
-
VD ** 5
76 Perfectly Pointless
-
HS 4a 1
77 A Bridge Too Far
-
VD 3
78 Sonata Crack D 2
79 Takahe E2 5a * 12
80 Bigger Girls E6 6b ** 1
81 Warpath-Sun Combination E3 5c ** 5
82 January Jaunts
-
D 1
83 Serpent
-
HVS 5b 2
84 Sundance E2 5b  
85 Takahe (P2a ArĂȘte finish variation) E2 5b * 7
86 Truant Right Hand
-
E2 5b 5
87 The Absconders Finish
-
HVS 5b * 10
88 Cocktail Trip Direct E4 6a * 2
89 Too Hard For Young Men E7 6b,6c 1
  Porth Saint
91 Surreal Appeal
-
E7 6b *  
92 Easel-EE
-
E7 6c *  
93 Treasure Island HVD 6
94 Bow Planes
-
HS 4b 2
95 Neptune's Nuts E1 5c  
96 Seraphim HVS 5a 5
97 Up Periscope HS 4b 4
98 Conning Tower HS 4b 4
99 Torpedo Tubes
-
S 4a 3
100 Nine Extractions HVS 5a 8
101 Leviathon
-
E2 5c 1
102 Nostromo VS 5a 3
103 Jesters
-
HS 4b 3
104 The Mole Catcher
-
S 4a 3
105 Joker's Wall
-
VS 4c 4
106 Jack of Clubs
-
VS 4c 3
107 Going Blind
-
VS 4c 2
108 Queen of Hearts
-
VS 4c 12
109 Watership Clown
-
S 4a * 24
110 The Death of The Witch E1 5a 20
111 Eliminate E1
-
E1 5b  
112 Sea Spray Wall VS 4b/c * 24
113 For the Girl Who Makes Hats
-
HVS 5a * 15
114 Letters Through the Mail
-
S 4a * 23
115 Time and Tide Wait for No Man
-
VS 4c 3
116 The Watchtower HVS 5a 11
117 For Whom the Light Shines
-
HVS 5b 5
118 Out of Gas
-
D 6
119 Pink-Hippo-Camp-Bus VS 4c 9
120 The Cormorant
-
VS 4c 3
121 Rhino
-
VS 4b 4
122 Slippery When Wet
-
VS 4a 1
123 Claustraphobia Gully
-
D 3
124 Fear of Sharp Things
-
E1 5a 7
125 Aviophobia
-
HS 4b 7
126 Catapaphobia
-
VS 4c 6
127 The Lineback Offensive
-
E1 5b 4
128 Hydrophobia 2
-
E2 5b *  
129 Autophobia
-
HVS 4c *  
130 Hydrophobia 1
-
E2 5b *  
131 Nige's Ramp
-
E2 5b * 1
132 Nige's Arete
-
E1 5a 4
133 The Vipper
-
E1 5b *  
134 Darjeeling
-
VS 5a 1
135 Maelstrom in a Teacup
-
VS 4c 3
136 Coffee Black and Egg White
-
HVS 5a  
137 Tidal Threats
-
E5 6a *  
138 Grasp on Reality
-
E1 5a *  
139 The Sea Shall Not Have Them
-
HVS 5a  
140 Generation Gap
-
E1 5b 1
141 White Water Wall
-
E2 5c  
142 The Mutiny VS 4b  
143 Missing Presumed Dead
-
E5 6b *  
144 December Days
-
VS  
145 A Friend in Need
-
VD  
146 Unnamed
-
VS 4c  
147 The Smiling Coastguard
-
HVS 5a  
148 Scorpion *
-
HVS 5a 3
149 Applegate Crack *
-
HS 4a 6
150 War Wounds *
-
E1 5b 5
151 It Ain't Fast Food *
-
E2 5c 2
152 Trafalgar * HS 4a 1
153 Malarkey * VS 4c 1
154 Jack of All Trades * VS 4c 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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