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Due to the ongoing spread of Covid-19, please abstain from climbing outside.

At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.

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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 39
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 840m a.s.l
Faces all

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Dave MacLeod on the first ascent of Transition, shortly before ankle surgery © Hot Aches Productions

Crag features

A north facing curving cliff down Glen Orchy with a lower tier of quartzite and an upper tier of schist. A series of springs flow naturally over the cliff edge and in a good freeze impressive ice flows build up giving ice routes up to 100m in height. Quartzvein Scoop (IV), Sunshine Gully (III) and The Smirk (V) are all 3-star ice routes.

Approach notes

Form the single track Glen Orchy road park where the Allt Diamh stream joins the road and walk up the stream bank to the cliffs in about 1 hour.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Beinn Udlaidh summit
-
summit 51
2 Ice Crew III ** 78
3 Quartzvein Scoop IV 4 *** 458
4 The Croc V 5 ** 51
5 Cut Throat VI 6 *** 3
6 Green Eyes IV 4 * 111
7 Peter Pan Direct V 5 ** 146
8 Captain Hook VI 6 ** 20
9 Land of Make Believe II * 54
10 South Gully of The Black Wall IV 4 ** 185
11 Ramshead Gully III * 47
12 Off the beaten track IV 4 1
13 Sunshine Gully III *** 222
14 Suspended Animation IV 4 * 4
15 Central Gully II 90
Climb name Grade
16 Doctor's Dilemma IV 4 ** 62
17 Junior's Jaunt IV 5 47
18 Crossroads IV 8  
19 West Gully III * 202
20 The Smirk V 5 *** 24
21 Organ Pipe Wall V 5 * 83
22 Unknown IV 4 1
23 Ramshead Buttress
-
IV 4 * 4
24 White Caterpillar III * 19
25 White Caterpillar Direct
-
IV 4 * 13
26 Cut It IV 4 ** 13
27 The Cramp
-
IV 4 ** 3
28 Unknown 2
-
III 5
29 The Grin VI 7 ** 1
30 Quintet IV 4 3
Climb name Grade
31 Tinkerbell III 4 42
32 Mustang Sally IV 4 ** 3
33 The Crooked Smile VII 7 *** 1
34 Zigzag Gully II * 9
35 Tinkerbell III
-
I 2
36 Transition * VI 7 *** 1
37 Screw Loose * IV 4 * 7
  Routes Added from Rockfax Book
  East Sector Left, Black Wall
40 Land of Make Believe, Original Line III *  
41 Blitz V 6 **  
  East Sector Right
  West Sector
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer pete87abs