Climbs 37
Rocktype Slate
Altitude 344m a.s.l
Faces S

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Top pitch of Central Sadness © jethro kiernan

Crag features

Amazing routes up to 66m, including the extremely worrying (if run-outs worry you) California Arête (E1 4c) or the vast 66m Central Sadness (E5 6a), or then the better-protected Stairway to Silence (E6 6b) and Big Sur (E6 6c). Only one route each at E1, E2 and E3 though.

Approach notes

A self-contained quarry hole (but deep!) to the R and behind Dali's Hole. From Bus Stop Quarry head as if for DH, then follow the rising path around the R side of the weird pool. Up the scree slope to the tunnel mouth. Continue. Out of this is part of the area, but the rest is through another (wet) tunnel to the area's floor.

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North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Wales Rock (2006)
Slate (1992)
The Slate Wiki
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Californian Arete Area
2 The California Express 3c * 21
3 Welcome to the Machine 7a ** 5
4 Tambourine Man 8a ** 2
5 We no speak Americano! 6a ** 77
6 A Pair Of Six E3 5c * 4
7 Slabs 'R' Us 7b * 4
8 Shtimuli E4 6a ** 1
9 Aultimers Groove E2 5c 2
10 Californian Arete E1 4c *** 192
11 Wedlock Holiday E5 6c ***  
12 Classy Situations E2 5a 1
13 Pitch Two E4 6b  
Climb name Grade
14 Midnight Flier E5 6b 1
15 NYQUIST ? *  
16 Happy Hooking ? *  
17 The Hobbit E5 6b ** 1
18 The Sneaking E4 5c 1
19 Ya Twistin Ma Melon Man E3 6a 1
20 New Rays from an Ancient Sun A2  
21 Old Fart ?  
  California Wall
23 The Wooley (or Won't He) Jumper E3 6a  
24 Unpaid Bills E5 6b ** 5
25 Primal Ice Cream E3 5b 5
26 Snakes and Ladders Approach HVS 5a 900
Climb name Grade
27 Snakes and Ladders - California HVS 5a 43
28 Esprit de Corpse E4 6a * 16
29 Simply Peach E5 6b * 5
30 Sad Old Red E4 6a * 4
31 The Madcap Laughs E3 6a 2
32 Spider Pants E6 6b ***  
33 Central Sadness E5 6a *** 75
34 Dwarf Shortage E5 6a ** 6
35 Sombre Music E6 6b **  
36 The Big Sur E6 6b *** 1
37 Waves of Inspiration E5 6a *** 75
38 Stairway to Silence E7 6b *** 2
39 Fruit of the Gloom XS ** 1

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