Climbs 98
Rocktype Slate

Faces W

A severe case of belay midge depression on Patellaectomy © Andrew Stelmach

Crag features

A secluded area with some deeply worrying routes (VDiff leaders, this is not the place to start) but also some good stuff. Routes up to 30m (the E6 may be 60m) with gems like Kubla Khan (E4 6a), Short Stories (E4 6a) and Never Never Land (E5 6a).

Approach notes

From the dip in the path by Dali's Hole continue for 200m past a circular slate air vent on the L. Continue on (rather than L for Serengeti) past a ruined building. Walk round L to the bottom of a large slab with a stepped groove.

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Guidebooks

It looks as though there's been some recent rockfall in the Monkey Bar area. The chimney on Patellaectomy now contains a very precariously balanced block and is wider than before. Thought quite a few large blocks looked as though they've recently come down in this area...didn't want to hang around for too long!
Kevin Bowser - 09/Sep/15
Monkey bar area is easiest to access from near dali's hole. When dalis hole gate is reached at bottom of dip, hop over the gate on the opposite side, and follow level round to the left, where you should soon find the required area..
chrisdavies - 13/Feb/13
For those looking for Monkey Bar Area: the crag is level with the ruined building but is on the opposite side of the main footpath, and is situated below the level of the path. It can be accessed via an easy path which leads off to the right (runs parallel to the main path) when the main path dips by Dali's Hole.
Ragingpossum - 12/Feb/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  NUREMBURG
2 Hawk Eye 5c * 396
3 Fresh Air 5c ** 853
4 Swiss Air 6c * 39
5 Breaking Wind HVS 5a 3
6 Hot Air Crack HVS 5b 7
7 State of the Heart 6c+ ** 52
8 Yossarian 6b+ * 16
9 Steps of Escher 6c * 20
10 Route left of Hawkeye * 5b 12
  NEVER NEVER LAND SLAB
12 Back in the Saddle 6b+ * 43
13 Tomb Raider 6a * 267
14 Road to Nowhere VD 2
15 Rodent to Nowhere E1 5a 3
16 Octogenarian 5b ** 43
17 362 6a * 404
18 Pipers at the Gates of Dawn E5 6b  
19 Scheherezade E4 6b ** 120
20 The Machine in the Ghost E5 6b 16
21 Never Never Land E5 6a *** 35
22 Khubla Khan E3 6b ** 131
23 Dark and Scary Stories E5 6b * 3
24 Short Stories E4 6a *** 126
25 Ghengis E6 6a 8
26 Andy Pandy E1 5a  
27 Dog and Bone 6a *** 21
28 The Ascent of the Vikings E1 6a  
  medusa`s lare
30 Operation Zig Zag 5c ** 4
31 Release the Kraken! 6b+ * 110
32 The Carbon Stage 6c+ ** 40
33 Zeus 6a+ * 243
34 Titan 4c * 231
35 Graze anatomy 6a+ 33
  THE UPPER TIER
37 Watch Me Wallaby Wank, Frank E3 6a * 144
38 Kookaburra Waltz E4 6a 2
39 Squashing the Acropods E1 5b * 16
40 Igam-Ogam E4 6a * 16
  shame and embarrasment wall area
42 The Gargoyle 6a+ 22
43 Obsession
-
6a+ 13
44 Stairlift to Heaven E1 5a 2
45 Shame and Embarrassment E5 6b  
46 Bar of Soap E1 5b  
47 Suspension of Disbelief E4 6a  
48 Name Unknown E3 6a  
49 Watford Gap West VS 4b 3
  funky gibbon boulder area
51 Supergroovy f6A+ * 2
52 Brownstone Arete f5+ 2
53 Between The Lines f6A 2
54 Swingometer f6A * 2
55 Diamond Geezer f4 2
56 Do The Funky Gibbon f6B ** 1
57 Ripple Groove. f6A+ * 2
58 The ripple mantle f6A 2
59 Shelf Life f6A 2
60 Dune Groove. f6B+ * 1
61 Tippy Toe Traverse f5 2
  LOWER TIER
63 Snap E1 5a 16
64 Alpen E1 5b 16
65 Free Gift S 3
66 Crackle VS 4c 18
67 Pop HVS 5b 7
68 Never Fall f6B+ 2
  MONKEY BAR AREA
70 Cry Wolf M9 *** 2
71 One Hundred Words for No Snow M9+ *** 5
72 Shock the Monkey HVS 5a 21
73 Rastamouse M7+ ** 5
74 The Deerhunter M7 24
75 Monkey-Bar Kid M6+ 44
76 Bambi M9+ ** 2
77 Ibex M7 37
78 Ibex Direct M8 4
79 Rest in Pete's Eats E1 5a  
80 Home Run E2 6a * 8
81 Monkey see Monkey do E2 5b 1
82 Patellaectomy E1 5c ** 73
83 Beyon the Pail 7a * 3
84 Pail Rider 6c+ * 9
85 A Little Pail 6b+ * 24
86 Sleazy Rider E1 5a 1
87 Dyke Rider E2 5b 10
88 Penblwydd Hapus(i fi) 6c 2
89 Offa's 6b * 7
  over there land
91 Cavity Wall 7c ** 10
92 Easy for Caterpillars 7a 4
93 Let Yourself Go! 7a * 5
94 Super Slinky 6c * 4
95 Tricky Trev's techy trav * f6A 1
96 Crack a goo goo * f4 * 1
97 Pinch an inch * f6A 1
98 The smiler * f4 1
99 Macsen * 6a * 23
100 High steppe * f6A 1
101 Thief * f6A+ 1
102 A little bit of both. * f6B 1
103 Zloty * f6B 1
104 Fruitcake handshake * f5+ 1
105 Smiler arete * f3+  
106 Learning to Fly * 5a * 4
107 Donkey Rider * E1 5a  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer chrisdavies