UKC

Climbs 85
Rocktype Slate
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Jamie chilling on p5 after the 7a flash © gowain

Crag features

Not for the faint-hearted or soft-headed, some loose rock so helmets advised. Twll Mawr is the home of some amazing routes, single and multi-pitch up to 219 metres the nearest Britain really has to Yosemite. (Leo Houlding spent a lot of time here.) The Big Hole is home to the famously impressive 'The Quarryman' (E8 7a) and 'The Meltdown' 9a. A number of single and multi pitch sport routes have been added over recent years including the 4 longest multi pitch sport routes in the UK, 'The Rock Bottom Line' 135 metres, 'The Desolation of Smaug' 145 metres, 'Long in the Twll / The North is Rising' 160 metres and 'Tan y Ddraig' 180 metres.

NOTE: If you've enjoyed any of the bolted routes in Twll Mawr please consider donating to the North Wales Bolt Fund :-)
http://northwalesboltfund.webs.com/

Approach notes

From Bus Stop Quarry continue along the path, beyond Dalis and Never Never Land. The huge vista of rock should be obvious as you go on.

Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

If You've enjoyed any of the bolted sports routes in Twll Mawr please consider donating to the North Wales Bolt Fund :-) http://northwalesboltfund.webs.com/
Sl@te Head - 04/May/15
How to Find Twll Mawr on You tube... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Jv5zOVHS_8
Sl@te Head - 08/Mar/15
Some links for The Rock Bottom Line, Supermassive Black Hole, Black Hole Sun and Black Holes and Revelations... http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2011/10/uks-longest-sport-route/ http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2011/07/four-pitch-sport-route-added-to-twll-mawr/ http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2011/11/like-father-like-son/
Sl@te Head - 04/Jun/12
Check out my photosynth panoramic at the base of SuperMassive Black Hole in Twill Mawr: http://photosynth.net/view.aspx?cid=14473c30-e651-4868-aaf2-4e32706160a1&m=false&i=0:0:0&c=0:0:0&z=548.482755730145&d=-1.24564770520284:-1.17570765130743:-1.16470582811073&p=0:0&t=False
Jonny2vests - 11/Sep/11
A historical account of Joe Brown's early explorations in Twll Mawr...Note to self - must remember the beer next time next time I'm new routing in there :o) http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/journal/original/1970-1%20Journal-p31-38.pdf
Sl@te Head - 11/Sep/11
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