UKC

Climbs 74
Rocktype Slate
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces NW

Caroline Ciavaldini in The Groove © NeilHart.info

Crag features

Not for the faint-hearted or soft-headed, some loose rock so helmets advised. Twll Mawr is the home of some amazing routes, single and multi-pitch up to 219 metres the nearest Britain really has to Yosemite. (Leo Houlding spent a lot of time here.) The Big Hole is home to the famously impressive 'The Quarryman' (E8 7a) and 'The Meltdown' 9a. A number of single and multi pitch sport routes have been added over recent years including the 4 longest multi pitch sport routes in the UK, 'The Rock Bottom Line' 135 metres, 'The Desolation of Smaug' 145 metres, 'Long in the Twll / The North is Rising' 160 metres and 'Tan y Ddraig' 180 metres.

NOTE: If you've enjoyed any of the bolted routes in Twll Mawr please consider donating to the North Wales Bolt Fund :-)
http://northwalesboltfund.webs.com/

Approach notes

From Bus Stop Quarry continue along the path, beyond Dalis and Never Never Land. The huge vista of rock should be obvious as you go on.

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Guidebooks

If You've enjoyed any of the bolted sports routes in Twll Mawr please consider donating to the North Wales Bolt Fund :-) http://northwalesboltfund.webs.com/
ian Ll-J - 04/May/15
How to Find Twll Mawr on You tube... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Jv5zOVHS_8
ian Ll-J - 08/Mar/15
Some links for The Rock Bottom Line, Supermassive Black Hole, Black Hole Sun and Black Holes and Revelations... http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2011/10/uks-longest-sport-route/ http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2011/07/four-pitch-sport-route-added-to-twll-mawr/ http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2011/11/like-father-like-son/
ian Ll-J - 04/Jun/12
Check out my photosynth panoramic at the base of SuperMassive Black Hole in Twill Mawr: http://photosynth.net/view.aspx?cid=14473c30-e651-4868-aaf2-4e32706160a1&m=false&i=0:0:0&c=0:0:0&z=548.482755730145&d=-1.24564770520284:-1.17570765130743:-1.16470582811073&p=0:0&t=False
Jonny2vests - 11/Sep/11
A historical account of Joe Brown's early explorations in Twll Mawr...Note to self - must remember the beer next time next time I'm new routing in there :o) http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/journal/original/1970-1%20Journal-p31-38.pdf
ian Ll-J - 11/Sep/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Twll Mawr 'Hidden Tunnel' - Quarry Adventure
2 Hobbits, Ladders and Tunnels XS *** 1
  Golgotha
4 The Daddy Club E1 5b  
5 Green Slip 7a  
6 Slip of the Tongue E6 6c ** 1
7 Slip Sliding Away E5 6b *  
8 Split Decision E6 6c ** 1
9 Tales of the Golden Monkey E2 5c *  
  Watford Gap
11 In Between Red and Green E1 5a  
12 Snoring Exploring E1 5b  
13 Watford Gap West VS 4b 8
  Combat Rock Area
15 Combat Rock E1 5a ** 178
16 Tunnel Vision V5 2
17 Graffiti Drive By V4 1
18 Rhyfelwr E2 5b ** 36
19 Teenage Kicks E4 6a  
20 Purple Haze E3 5b ** 11
21 The Color Purple E4 6b ** 4
22 Cyclone B E3 6a * 1
  The Alcove
24 Lethal Injection E2 5c *** 3
25 Legal Murders E3 6a * 2
26 Top Gear E1 5b  
27 Drunken Laughs E2 5b  
Climb name Grade
  The South Wall
29 Practically Esoteric
-
E2 5c * 2
30 Booooom, Blast & Ruin VS 4c * 5
31 Dark Side of the Moon 7b * 2
32 Set the Controls for the Heart of the Sun 7a ** 8
33 Imagine Dragons 6b ** 19
34 Lost in the Echo E2 5b *  
35 Cam-ikaze Corner E3 6a *  
36 Champagne Supernova 7b ** 1
37 Black Holes and Revelations - The Wobbly Ladder Pitch 6b ** 6
38 Black Holes and Revelations 7a ** 11
39 In the Line of Fire 7c+  
40 Supermassive Black Hole 7a *** 89
41 Running Scared 7c+ *  
42 Black Hole Sun 7a+ *** 32
43 Black Hole of Calcutta 7a * 5
44 Black Hole of Calcutta (P2) 6a+ *  
  The Quarryman Wall
46 Wolfhound E4 6a *  
47 Birdman of Cae'r Berllan E2 5c 1
48 A Winter's Tale 6b * 1
49 The Hunted E7 6c **  
50 Fleur-de-lis E6 6c *  
51 Beijqueiro E4 6b ** 6
52 Coeur de Lion E8 7a *** 1
53 The Meltdown 9a ***  
54 Blockhead E7 6c *** 1
55 King of the Mezz E7 6c *  
Climb name Grade
56 The Quarryman E8 7a *** 14
57 The Fire Escape E7 6c **  
58 Mike's Trombone E6 6b **  
59 Phil's Harmonica E6 6c *  
60 The Wonderful World of Walt Disney E6 6b *** 6
61 Disney Pixar E7 6c ***  
62 The Dyke E6 6a **  
63 Opening Gambit XS 2
64 The Gay Blade E6 6a *  
65 The Rock Bottom Line 7b+ *** 15
66 Long in the Twll/The North will Rise Again 6c+ ** 27
  The North Wall
68 Hamadryad E3 5c * 5
69 Tân y Ddraig 7a ** 30
70 The Desolation of Smaug! 6c ** 115
71 Antiquarian E5 6a *  
72 Twll Love E5 6a **  
73 The Razor's Edge E3 6b *  
74 The True Finish E4 6b *  
75 The Baron E5 6b *  
76 Burning Bush E7 6b *  
77 Bushmaster E3 6b *  
78 Scorpion XS  
79 Taith Mawr E4 6a  
80 The Punters Retreat E3 5b  
81 Island of Stability 6c ** 5
82 Bonza Crack HVS 5b * 2

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer ian Ll-J