Climbs 159
Rocktype Slate
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces S

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Vivian Quarry looking down © Sean Kelly

Crag features

Home of the famous Comes The Dervish (E3 5c). Also contains many other easier routes to introduce folk to slate, such as Mental Lentils (HVS 5b) and viciously hard ones (Dawes Of Perception E7 6c). There's also the Bathtime Wall - E4 upwards.

Approach notes

Visible from Pete's Eats. Drive over the bridge and up the road to the Quarry (tourist centre). Park in the car park - check what time it closes.

Access Banned

June 13th 2019 -A major rockfall has occured and until further notice all access to the whole of the Vivian Quarry climbing areas is closed. Considerable loose rock is scattered all over the southern side of the quarry, affecting numerous routes with significant further rock falls likley.  

A major rock fall has occured in 2017- access to the lower tier, beyond Dawes of Perception slab has been fenced off to protect the public. There is currently no access to the Psychotherapy slab or any other routes on the lower level in that area; the small bay directly in front of the scuba diving platform has collapsed rendering this area very unsafe and unstable, with more rock likely to come down.

Access to Mental Lentils and other routes immediately near the entrance to the Lower Level is unaffected. Similarly, access to the Middle (Dervish) level and the Upper Levels is also unaffected by this recent rockfall. The quarry is within the Padarn Country Park, managed by Gwynedd Council. Climbing is tolerated away from the main paths and the owners make it clear that access away from the main paths is entirely at the individual's own risk and offically not encouraged.

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Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Wales Slate (2018)
Slate (1992)
Went upto the top level today. Faulty towers pinnacle is no more, looks like fresh rock fall.
BAdhoc - 13/May/16
if you ever get a big freeze -10c for a few days the watertrickle on the base level r/h side becomes a 28m ,grade 7/8 water ice wall.
ben wray - 10/Apr/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Goodbye Natterjack Toad HVS 5a  
  Pool Level
  Muscle Beach
4 Brinwell HVS 6a 3
5 Boody Building HVS 6a * 9
6 Silvester Still-born E1 5c 6
7 Earwig Ho 87 E3 5c 10
8 Booby Building HVS 5a 13
  The Prow
10 One Whell on My Wagon E4 5c * 3
11 Wishing Well E6 6b **  
12 Sucked Away with the Scum 7c *  
13 I Ran the Bath E7 6b ** 2
14 Bathtime E5 6a *** 15
15 Soap on a Rope E4 6a *** 58
16 Dope on a Rope E5 6a *** 7
17 Blades of Green Tara E2 5b * 8
18 Order of the Bath E6 6b **  
19 Surreal Mirror *
-
6b ** 1
  the dark side of the prow
21 Four Wheel Drift E4 6a  
22 Sesame Street comes to Llanberis E3 5c *  
23 Le Voleur 7c **  
24 Artichokes, Artichokes 7b+ **  
25 Aubergines, Aubergines E1 5b  
26 Hot Air Blowlloon * E4 6a * 1
  Psychotherapy Area
28 Blue Touch Paper E2 5c 1
29 Poetry in Motion E3 5c 1
30 Wave Out on the Ocean E1 5a 2
31 The Blind Buddha E2 5a * 15
32 Stump Rogers E4 6b *  
33 Psychotherapy E2 5c ** 691
34 Cat Flaps of Perception E4 6a 5
  Wendy Doll Ledge
36 Working up a Lather E4 6b 2
37 Imperial Leather E4 6b 1
38 Spread 'em E4 5c  
  Bobby's Groove Area
40 The Sponge that Walked Away E1 5a 8
41 Wendy Doll (P1) HVS 4c 2
42 Two Bolts or Not to Be 7b+ ** 2
43 Bobby's Groove 8a *** 2
44 The Weetabix Connection 6c+ 35
45 The Golden Shower E3 6a 5
46 Tower of Power
-
VS 5a 1
  Mental Lentils Area
48 The Hong Jagged Route of Death E3 5b 2
49 Heinous Creature E5 6a 6
50 Sanity Fair E3 5b 9
51 Sanity Claws E5 6a 5
52 Fat Lad Exam Failure E6 6b 2
53 Clap Please E7 6c  
54 Dirt E4 6a * 2
55 Split the Dog E3 5c 2
56 Dawes of Perception E7 6c *** 1
57 Time Bandit 7b * 29
58 Mental Lentils HVS 5b * 1324
59 The Monster Kitten E1 5c ** 527
60 Ladder Resist E3 6a * 74
Climb name Grade
61 Moving Being E4 6b ** 23
  The Dwarf Level
63 Watching the Sin Set E5 6c ** 3
64 Sup 1 E2 5a * 7
65 Teliffant E4 6a * 5
66 Sup 2 E2 5a * 3
67 The Shark that Blocked the Drain E6 6b * 1
68 Wakey, Wakey, Hands off Snakey E4 6a * 6
69 On Shite E4 5c * 2
70 Too Bald to be Bold E2 5c ** 143
71 The Turkey Chant E2 5c ** 99
72 The Dwarf in the Toilet E6 6b ** 2
73 Gideon's Way E4 6a * 4
74 Sabre Dance E3 5b *  
75 Bungle in the Jungle E1 5b  
  Love Minus Zero
77 Lentil in a Stew HVS 5a 7
78 Legs Together E2 5b 2
79 Legs Akimbo E2 5b 4
80 Feet Apart E3 5b * 2
81 Love Minus Zero E6 6a ** 2
82 Down to Zero E3 5b * 2
  Age Concern
84 Yak Kak XS  
85 Age Concern HVS 5a 2
86 Bong to Lunch HVS 4c 1
87 Frustrated Lust HVS 5a  
88 The Moon Head Egg Monster From Allsup E1 4c  
  Nostromo Wall
90 Nostromo E4 6b * 8
91 Nostradamus E4 6b * 1
92 Menopausal Discharge 8a+ ** 1
93 Colditz 7b+ * 10
94 Young and Easy Under the Apple Boughs E4 6a ** 16
95 Manic Strain 8a *** 17
96 Gin Palace 7c *** 35
97 Child's Play 7b+ ** 13
98 Hymen Snapper E5 5c *  
  Comes the Dervish
100 Reefer Madness E3 5c * 7
101 For Whom the Bell Tolls E6 6b ** 4
102 Menstrual Gossip E6 6b ** 8
103 Comes the Dervish E3 5c *** 1091
104 Flashdance E5 6a ** 110
105 Belldance E5 6b ** 7
106 Flashdance/Belldance E6 6b *** 11
107 Breakdance E7 6b *  
108 Poledance E6 6b *  
109 Last Tango in Peris E2 5b *** 937
110 Wendy Doll (pitch 3) E1 5b 18
111 Swinging by the Bell E5 6a * 6
  Conscience Slab
113 The Gully VS 5a  
114 Mister, Mister 6b * 32
115 The Full Monty 6a+ * 60
116 Slate's Slanting Crack
-
E2 5b 5
117 Foetal Attraction
-
E4 5c  
118 Menage a Trois E4 6b * 4
119 The Sweetest Taboo E4 6a ** 54
120 The Direct Start E4 6b * 3
Climb name Grade
121 Never as Sweet E4 6a ** 9
122 Never as Good as the First Time E3 5c * 146
123 Is it a Crime? E3 5c ** 210
124 That Obscure Object of Desire VS 4b 12
125 The Spark that Set the Flame E5 6b * 4
126 Smokeless Zone E4 6b * 6
127 You can dance if You Want to HVS 5a 3
128 Vivander HVS 5a 1
  Hot Knives Level
130 Throttle With Bottle E2 5c  
131 Birdsong 6a+ 14
132 Binman HVS 5a  
133 Abus Dangereux E2 5b 1
134 Fallout VS 4c 2
135 The Manimal 6c ** 12
136 Baby Nina Soils her Pants VS 4b 7
137 Night of the Hot Knives E3 5c * 5
138 Tribal Blow E6 6b * 2
139 Solvent Abuse E3 5b 2
140 Under the Glass HVS 5a * 4
141 The Velociraptor E2 5c * 4
142 Big Iron World * f6B+ 1
143 ALF * f6C 1
144 Vivisection * f6C+ 1
145 Jesus Was a Punk * f6C 1
  Truffle Hunter Area
147 Truffle Hunter's Roof 6b+ ** 25
148 Satires of Circumstance E2 5b  
149 Jumping the Gun E1 5b 9
150 Puff Puff E2 5c 1
  Ritter Sport Area
152 A Tourmegamite Experience VS  
153 One Step Beyond E3 6a * 12
154 Two Tone E2 6a ** 31
155 The Madness E2 5c ** 108
156 Silly on Slate HVS 4c * 4
157 Private Smells E5 6b * 5
158 Private Smells Direct E5 6b  
159 General Odours E4 6a ** 5
160 Ritter Sport E3 5c ** 73
161 Major Whiff E3 5c 3
162 Major Sport E2 5c * 3
  Vivian Link-ups
164 The East Face of Vivian E2 5c *** 58
165 Wendy Doll E2 5b 34
  Valkyries Level
167 Pas da Dutchy 6a 8
168 Pas de Chevre 7b ** 3
169 Ride of the Valkyries E2 5c ** 2
170 Power Tool Ressurection 7a * 1
  Top Level
172 Faulty Towers E2 5c  
173 Caleduwlch E4 6a *  
174 Dog Day Dogfish VS 4c 11
175 Top Level
-
E2 5b 1
176 Surreal Mirror 6b+ * 1
177 The Missing Link E2 5c * 25
178 Slug Life * f6C+ 1
179 Why don't We Do it in the Road? * VE  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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