Climbs 64
Rocktype Slate
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces all

The start is hard until the crack opens up © Phil Ashton

Crag features

A collection of quarries containing some fantastic routes and some not so fantastic. Adventurous, committing, big, out of fashion, off-widths, loose rock and some undeniably brilliant classics. Glyn Rhonwy has it all and days spent here are not going to be easily forgotten.

Notable routes include Gideon (HVS) (the first recorded slate route), Giddy Variations on a Theme (E2), Cracking Up (E2), Gender Bender (E3), the Bone People (E4), the Second Coming (E4), The Bridge Across Forever (E5), Synthetic Life (7a+) and Senior Citizen Smith (E6).

More recently a new power scheme has been given the go ahead for the area and the future access of the quarries is unknown. It sounds like Mancer Quarry will become totally restricted, so if you want to climb the famous off-widths Mancer Direct and Liquid Armbar then do them now before its too late.

Approach notes

Not owned by Gwynedd County Council. Essential to keep a low profile. Seasonal bird ban of The Bone People and dry tooling area of Gideon Quarry from 1st March to 30th June.

Take the road opposite Pete's Eats in Llanberis out of town and up the hill. Layby parking next to the gate on the uphill side of the road.

Access Advice

There have been serious problems here in the past but access appears less problematic providing climbers keep a low profile. The quarries are owned by Gwynedd Council who make it clear that there is no offical access due to public safety reasons - there are high fences and signs prohibiting access, but there have not been any reports of practical access problems for many years.

In early 2017 planning permisson was granted for a new hydro-electric power station on the site. When works starts on this (unkknow time-scale) its likley that access to some of the quarries will be permenently lost, especially to Mancer and Film Set Quarries as these will become flooded to produce a holding reservoir.  

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2017 - Due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs (both species have legal protection under the Wildlife & Countryside Act),  some climbing in the Gideon Quarry (all routes on Gideon Terrace and Cracking up areas) is restricted from March 1st until the end of June.

 

Went to do Clippopotamus last week. 5 of the 8 bolts are without hangers. What is it with the slate? Also did Uhuru for Mandela, which was great fun, but... the top bolt and one of the belay bolts are without hangers.
edwardwoodward - 29/Jul/16
The hangers on the ab/belay bolts on Near Dark and Kenny's Wall are missing. Good tree 10m back for Near Dark, 30m ab from tree to ledges at the bottom. Thought it was E3 5c, bottom slab is 5c, top slab is very bold. Good fence posts for Kenny's Wall 10m back. Also did Pandora Plays Sax. Thought it was harder than Gideon and close to E1. Decent gear close to the belay on P2, but then nothing worthwhile for about 20m. Also went to do Cabin Fever, but it is now mossed over. If you see any sunglasses up there, they're mine!
edwardwoodward - 02/Aug/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Mancer Quarry
2 Liquid Armbar E4 6a *** 5
3 The Mancer Direct
-
E3 5b ** 2
4 The Mancer Original Start
-
E1 4c  
5 Good Crack
-
E3 6a * 1
6 I Don't Wanna Pickle
-
E4 6a  
7 Blah de Blah de Blah!
-
E4 5c  
8 Damocles
-
HVS 5a  
9 Clippopotamus
-
6b *  
  Film Set Quarry
11 The Second Coming
-
E4 6c ** 1
12 Monsieur Avantski E4 6a * 1
13 Gender Bender
-
E3 6b **  
14 Marital Aids
-
E5 6b  
15 The Trash Heap Has Spoken
-
E1 5a  
16 The Trash Heap Speaks Again
-
VS 4b  
17 Mental Block
-
VS 4c  
18 Layed Back Boys
-
E2 5b  
19 Arse Over Tit
-
VS 4c  
20 Arrampicata Speiligone
-
E1 5a  
21 Old Fogies Never Die
-
VS 4b  
22 Bring me the head of Don Quixote E2 5a  
23 Near Dark (After Dark)
-
E2 5b * 2
  Gideon Quarry
25 Beating the Raine
-
7b *  
26 Autocrat
-
6b * 2
27 Wobbly Variations on a Slab
-
E2 5a  
28 Giddy Variations on a Theme
-
E2 5b ** 6
29 Gideon
-
HVS 4c * 12
30 Blue Bottle
-
HVS  
31 Pandora Plays Sax
-
HVS 4c ** 7
32 Pandora Plays Sax Direct Start
-
E4 5c/6a * 1
33 Pandora's Box finish
-
HVS 4b  
34 Ultra Cricket Zone
-
E4 5c/6a  
35 The Climbing Pains of Adrian Mole
-
HVS 5b  
36 The Gnarly SPAR Kid E2 6a 11
37 The Mosquito
-
E6 6c *  
38 Los Alamos 6c 3
39 The Hand of Morlock E4 6a ** 8
40 Ladybird Girl/Giddy One E3 6a * 2
41 Kennys Wall
-
5c 4
42 I Pod V2 *  
43 Psyche And The Zephers V4 * 1
44 Uhuru for Mandela
-
E2 5c  
45 The Rothwell Incident XS 5b 1
46 Cracking Up E2 5c/6a ** 19
47 Cracked Up
-
HVS 5b 1
48 Synthetic Life 7a+ *** 4
49 The Bone People
-
E4 6a *** 4
50 The Bridge Across Forever
-
E5 6b *** 2
51 Senior Citizen Smith E6 6b *** 3
52 Chain Wall
-
M8+ **  
  The Rain Temple Quarry
54 Cabin Fever
-
5c * 1
  Shotgun Quarry
56 Clegir Arete
-
HVS 5a  
57 Unnamed
-
E1  
  Wall in the Hole Quarry
59 Twisted Nerve
-
E4 6a/b  
60 A Big Wall Climb
-
XS  
61 Friendly Argument
-
E2 5b  
  Cefn Du Quarry
63 The Reclining Bloon
-
E4 6a  
64 The New Salesman
-
E4 6b *  
65 Carneddau Flash Goggles
-
E1 5a  
66 The Wriggler
-
E1 5a *  
  Chwarel Fawr
68 Way Down in the Hole
-
E1 5a  

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