Climbs 64
Rocktype Slate
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces all

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Autocrat F6b, Gideon. © Duncan Campbell

Crag features

A collection of quarries containing some fantastic routes and some not so fantastic. Adventurous, committing, big, out of fashion, off-widths, loose rock and some undeniably brilliant classics. Glyn Rhonwy has it all and days spent here are not going to be easily forgotten.

Notable routes include Gideon (HVS) (the first recorded slate route), Giddy Variations on a Theme (E2), Cracking Up (E2), Gender Bender (E3), the Bone People (E4), the Second Coming (E4), The Bridge Across Forever (E5), Synthetic Life (7a+) and Senior Citizen Smith (E6).

More recently a new power scheme has been given the go ahead for the area and the future access of the quarries is unknown. It sounds like Mancer Quarry will become totally restricted, so if you want to climb the famous off-widths Mancer Direct and Liquid Armbar then do them now before its too late.

Approach notes

Not owned by Gwynedd County Council. Essential to keep a low profile. Seasonal bird ban of The Bone People and dry tooling area of Gideon Quarry from 1st March to 30th June.

Take the road opposite Pete's Eats in Llanberis out of town and up the hill. Layby parking next to the gate on the uphill side of the road.

Access Advice

There have been serious problems here in the past but access appears less problematic providing climbers keep a low profile. The quarries are owned by Gwynedd Council who make it clear that there is no offical access due to public safety reasons - there are high fences and signs prohibiting access, but there have not been any reports of practical access problems for many years.

In early 2017 planning permisson was granted for a new hydro-electric power station on the site. When works starts on this (unkknow time-scale) its likley that access to some of the quarries will be permenently lost, especially to Mancer and Film Set Quarries as these will become flooded to produce a holding reservoir.  

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

- Due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs (both species have legal protection under the Wildlife & Countryside Act),  some climbing in the Gideon Quarry (all routes on Gideon Terrace and Cracking up areas) is restricted from March 1st until the end of June.

 

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Guidebooks

Went to do Clippopotamus last week. 5 of the 8 bolts are without hangers. What is it with the slate? Also did Uhuru for Mandela, which was great fun, but... the top bolt and one of the belay bolts are without hangers.
edwardwoodward - 29/Jul/16
The hangers on the ab/belay bolts on Near Dark and Kenny's Wall are missing. Good tree 10m back for Near Dark, 30m ab from tree to ledges at the bottom. Thought it was E3 5c, bottom slab is 5c, top slab is very bold. Good fence posts for Kenny's Wall 10m back. Also did Pandora Plays Sax. Thought it was harder than Gideon and close to E1. Decent gear close to the belay on P2, but then nothing worthwhile for about 20m. Also went to do Cabin Fever, but it is now mossed over. If you see any sunglasses up there, they're mine!
edwardwoodward - 02/Aug/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Mancer Quarry
2 Liquid Armbar E4 6a ** 5
3 The Mancer Direct E3 5b ** 4
4 The Mancer Original Start E1 4c  
5 Good Crack E3 6a * 1
6 I Don't Wanna Pickle E4 6a  
7 Blah de Blah de Blah! E4 5c  
8 Damocles HVS 5a  
9 Clippopotamus 6b * 1
  Film Set Quarry
11 Near Dark (After Dark) E2 5b * 3
12 Bring me the head of Don Quixote E2 5a  
13 Old Fogies Never Die VS 4b  
14 Arrampicata Speiligone E1 5a  
15 Arse Over Tit VS 4c  
16 The Second Coming E4 6b ** 1
17 Monsieur Avantski E4 6a * 1
18 Gender Bender E3 6b **  
19 Marital Aids E5 6b  
20 The Trash Heap Has Spoken E1 5a  
21 The Trash Heap Speaks Again VS 4b  
22 Mental Block VS 4c  
23 Layed Back Boys E2 5b  
  Gideon Quarry
  Gideon Terrace Area
26 Cracking Up E2 5c ** 24
27 Cracked Up HVS 5b 1
Climb name Grade
28 The Rothwell Incident XS 1
29 Uhuru for Mandela E2 5c *  
30 The Zuma Deviation E2 5c * 1
31 Kenny's Wall 5c 7
32 Ladybird Girl/Giddy One E3 6a * 4
33 The Hand of Morlock 6c+ ** 8
34 Los Alamos 6c 5
35 The Mosquito E6 6c *  
36 The Gnarly SPAR Kid E2 6a 15
  Gideon Slab
38 Wobbly Variations on a Slab E2 5a  
39 Blue Bottle HVS  
40 Giddy Variations on a Theme E2 5b 9
41 Pandora Plays Sax Direct Start E4 6a * 1
42 Gideon HVS 4c * 16
43 Pandora Plays Sax HVS 4c ** 9
44 Ultra Cricket Zone E4 6a  
45 Pandora's Box finish HVS 4b  
46 The Climbing Pains of Adrian Mole HVS 5b  
47 Autocrat 6b+ * 2
48 Beating the Raine 7b *  
  The Bone People Area
50 I Pod V2 *  
51 Psyche And The Zephers V4 * 1
52 Synthetic Life 7a+ *** 5
53 The Bone People E4 6a *** 5
54 The Bridge Across Forever E5 6b *** 3
Climb name Grade
55 Senior Citizen Smith E6 6b *** 3
56 Chain Wall M8 ** 1
  Shotgun Quarry
58 Clegir Arete HVS 5a  
59 Scraping the Twin Barrels E1 5b  
60 The Flying Hopcopter E3 6a * 1
  Chwarl Plas Goch
62 Admire or Ignore 7c *  
63 Demon Landlord 6c ** 1
  The Rain Temple (Ddol Quarry)
65 Cabin Fever 5c * 1
  Wall in the Hole Quarry
67 Twisted Nerve E4 6b  
68 A Big Wall Climb XS  
69 Friendly Argument E2 5b  
  Cefn Du Quarry
71 The Reclining Bloon E4 6a  
72 The New Salesman E4 6b *  
73 Carneddau Flash Goggles E1 5a  
74 The Wriggler E1 5a *  
  Chwarel Fawr
76 Way Down in the Hole E1 5a  
  Routes Added from Rockfax Book
  Damocles Slab
  The Land that Time Forgot

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