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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 31
Rocktype Killas slate
Altitude 35m a.s.l
Faces SE

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The traverse of Saxon, with Cape Cornwall and the man in the bath in the background © Blake

Crag features

Amenable climbing at reasonable grades. The climbing feels exposed, yet is actually well-protected; the cruxes arrive with gear. Mostly single-, some multi-pitch routes up to 160ft. Highly recommended: Saxon (HVS 4c 4c***), Rock Dancer (E1 5a ***) with its monodoigt crux, and Thane (E1 5b).

Approach notes

Tidal in parts, mostly not.

Approach from Nancherrow/Tregeseal (SW 370 319) on the B3306 just north of St Just, at the base of the steep hill leading out of the road twds Botallack. Kenidjack Valley is seaward from the road junction at the bottom of the hill; a rough road runs for about 1mi along the N side of the valley. (It can be confusing - don't navigate into people's drives). Follow the road keeping generally L until it endds at quarries. The main cliff lies below these.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Not sure if of benefit or anyone will see this, but birds are currently nesting (rather than starting 29th May as notes suggest). 27/05/16
thetradlad - 27/May/16
50m rope couldn't reach the bottom from large rounded boulder.
Joel Perkin - 26/Jul/14
Re. Ab from the boulder above the main wall - we managed fine with a sling and 50m rope (2 or 3m to spare) either the previous poster used the wrong boulder or had a shorter rope. The one we used is level with a rocky gearing up area and approx. half way between the main path and the cliff edge.
The Ivanator - 09/Jun/12
Loved the style of climbing at this crag - based on Saxon and Rock Dancer. In the Rockfax West Country guidebook an abseil from the a large rounded boulder above the main wall is described. I ran a sling round the boulder and a 50m rope didn't reach the bottom (approx 5-8m short). Had to set up another belay at the belay just above the main wall.
domskezz - 24/Sep/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 drag artist
VS 4b 5
2 Seadreams
HS 4b * 28
3 Little Plum
VS 4b  
4 Nothinmega
VS 4b 1
5 Gneiss Gnome HS 4a * 164
6 In The Gallery HVS 5a * 114
7 Saxon Direct HVS 5a *** 105
8 Rock Dancer E1 5b *** 363
Climb name Grade
9 Saxon HVS 5a *** 610
10 The Shield E1 5a * 84
11 thane E1 5b ** 131
12 Fifty Year Storm HVS 5c 1
13 The Stormbringer E3 5c * 14
14 Great Central S 4a 16
15 Scouse Slab
VS 4b 3
16 A Very Cross Dresser VD 1
Climb name Grade
17 Salmon Splitter
VS 4c 7
18 Super Direct E2 5b 25
19 The Wooden Box E2 5c 2
20 Misdirection S 4a 2
21 D I Blues HVS 4c 2
22 Sieging The Castle * E4 6a * 2
23 Short Circuit *
E1 4b,5b 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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