Climbs 8
Rocktype Granite

Faces W

Crag features

The most northerly of the granite cliffs. Good pitches but lines may seem indistinct. Near to the sandy Portheras Beach whose attractions may seem greater - but beware ship's wreckage if swimming >from the middle of the beach. Perhaps climbing is safer: single- and multi-pitch routes up to 150ft.

Approach notes

Tidal on lower cliff.
Approach from the B3306 coast road at an unmarked turning just W of Morvah (SW 398 353). Some parking at Chypraze Farm - offer some payment (or we might not get parking in future).
Walk from there down the wide track twds the beach: Carn Clough is on the E side, via a vague path along the cliff edge from where the main track swings sharply down to the L twds the beach, above a wreck warning sign.

Really enjoyed the visit to this crag today, which mercifully sheltered from the easterly gale that was blowing. This crag is well worth a visit, I enjoyed all the routes, and you can pretty much guarantee getting the place to yourself. We climbed on the buttress only. There's a worthwhile Severe, and a handful of harder stuff. The E1s both looked pretty bold, Namaste in particular - not what you would expect from an E1 5c. The entire crag would benefit from more traffic to clean it up. Not sure if Ian Flindall would agree?!
Chimnastics - 05/May/17
As owner of this land I feel we may need to chat if such activity is being organised upon it Regards Ian Flindall (Chypraze Farm)
Ian Flindall - 23/Feb/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Ridge Direct
D 6
2 Free Rein
3 Brown Slab
S 2
Climb name Grade
4 Blinkers Slab
VD 2
5 Popse
S 4
6 Nutse
HVS 5b 4
Climb name Grade
7 Bobtail * HVS 5b 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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