Climbs 26
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

Red Wall solo © Simon R

Crag features

Mostly in the VDiff - VS range, very popular with novices and instructors. Notable climb is Dreamboat Annie, now (sensibly) downgraded from E1 5a to HVS. Some bouldering along the continuation of the strata that make up the crag.

Approach notes

Tidal - base of routes covered at high tide.
Scramble down ledges on the RHS (E side) of Red Wall and traverse L; or abseil down.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Pembroke

The famous Pembroke Rockfax has returned with this glorious full-colour version packed with classic routes and all the wonderful features that you have come to expect from Rockfax. It is now twice the size of the old 1995 book and has some of the biggest and clearest photo-topos that have ever been published in a UK guidebook.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Pembroke Rock (2016)
Pembroke Vol 1 - North Pembroke (2013)

Out of print:
Statement from BMC website: There is a very loose area of overhanging rock between the Grey Slab and Red Wall. The National Trust are currently (Sept. 2013) working on this to remove a hazard and this will affect access to several routes for a short time (see details on site). See info below from NT. "On 7th and 12 August steps were taken to remove a dangerous section of unstable rock near Grey and Red wall, to the east of the harbour entrance. There is still further work needed to completely remove the boulder 'bridge'. Temporary signage on site diverts walkers around the affected area and also details climbing routes that are affected."
Matt88 - 24/Feb/15
17-11-13 The loose rock bridge has now either been taken down or has fallen down as there is nothing but a sheer drop !!
bennevis - 18/Nov/13
Block isn't going to come from the wall anytime soon - just be aware of it.
Matt88 - 13/May/13
Just a heads up - theres a wobbly block in the all lines engaged/ sea rider area just above the diagonal crack, looks like a great hold till you grab it! doesn't look like it can be pulled off at the moment as i gave it a good shake - will have a closer look in two weeks and see
Matt88 - 24/Feb/13
Dreamboat Annie IS E1 5a
The Pylon King - 09/Sep/06
Nice location, can get busy but, worth a visit.
Phil - 11/Sep/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Dreamboat Annie
2 Against the Grain
-
VD 74
3 Harbour Crack VD * 452
4 Glaze Crack HS 4b * 406
5 Porth-Clais Crack HS 4b * 692
6 Vegetable Rights VS 4c * 270
7 Frieze VS 4c * 370
8 Diagonal Crack S 4a ** 657
9 All Lines Engaged HS 4b * 225
10 Sea Rider VS 4c ** 434
11 Dreamboat Annie HVS 5a ** 622
12 Inset S 4a * 116
13 Ship of Fools HS 4b 19
14 Zawn Climb
-
HS 4b 9
15 The Arete
-
HS 4b 104
16 Porth-Clais Corner
-
D 53
17 The Cracker
-
VD 56
18 Marooned HVS 5a 11
  Red Wall
20 Red Adair S 4a * 329
21 Red Wall S 4a ** 1190
22 Red Wall Right-Hand HS 4b * 459
  Outlying
24 Porth-Clais Chimney
-
D 52
25 Slider S 4a * 2
26 Low level traverse 4a * 2
27 Bear Crack
-
VS 4b 6
28 Itchus Dickus Majoris HVS 4c 11
29 Fatty Fatty Mooch * D 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Matt88