UKC

Climbs 182
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude 18m a.s.l
Faces all

Crag features

The Gogarth experience distilled down into smaller, easily digestible portions. A peaceful and very easily accessible area offering a huge variety of short but adventurous single pitch routes from easy slabs to steep caves, with a particularly wide selection of easier routes (a good alternative to Gogarth) as well as some exciting testpieces. Many routes are non-tidal and face a variety of directions, but a sunny and scenic outlook is generally guaranteed.

Approach notes

Park at The Range carpark and follow the guidebook to the crag of your choice, usually 5-10 mins flat stroll.

Access Advice

Easy access  but tidal. Lots of conservation interest including nesting  birds and a very rare flower - the South Stack Spathulate Fleawort - a nationally rare speices that grows along the cliff edges. No gardening or placing of any additional belay stakes allowed anywhere on this coastline.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Refer to current guide book (Goigarth South by Ground Up) for indivdual seasonal route access info.

Guidebooks

Lovely.
Fiend - 19/May/16
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Treasure Island
2 The Whistling Chimney E3 5c * 1
3 The Crooked Mile XS 5a *  
4 Bottom Feeders (aka: The Golden Fan) XS 5b * 1
5 When Ledges Die E2 5b *  
  Church Rock
7 New Believers E1 5a * 1
8 Never Jam Today E6 5c **  
  The Rickety Cliff
10 Foam Party XS *  
11 The Complete Works
-
E5 5c *  
  South Stack View Zawn
13 Flyover
-
D 1
14 Poor Relation
-
S  
15 The Ramp
-
S 1
16 Bass Mild
-
VS 4a  
17 The Cop-out Mild
-
VS 4a  
18 Jugs in Space
-
HVS 5a  
19 One Step Beyond
-
E1 5a * 2
20 Beyond the Beyond * E3 5b * 1
  Botox Zawn
22 Salute of the Tengu
-
E3 5b  
23 Tengu Escape Route
-
HVS 4c  
  Botox Buttress
25 Delicatelesson
-
VS 4a  
26 The RAF Brown Slab
-
VS 4a  
27 Seepage
-
VD  
28 Cracked
-
S  
29 Rock Scar Corner
-
VD  
30 Blackslabbath
-
HD 2
31 Paranoid * HVS 5b * 1
  Great Flake Zawn
33 Strange Little Girl D  
34 Something Better Change
-
VD 1
35 Skin Deep
-
VD  
36 Walk on By
-
MS 1
37 Nice in Nice
-
VD  
38 The Girdle S 4a  
39 When the Tide Goes Out MVS 4b  
  Right-hand Finish
41 American Excess
-
XS 5c *  
42 The Banana Spire E4 5c *  
43 Cornflake Crack
-
E1 5a  
44 Cadbury's
-
S 1
45 Great Flake Left Crack
-
VS 4c 2
46 Great Flake Right Crack
-
S  
47 Parental Control VS 4c 1
48 Scruff's Chimney
-
VD  
  Orange Slab
50 Tangerine VS 4b 5
51 The Orange Crack
-
VD 8
52 Clementine
-
MS 7
53 Jaffa
-
VD 5
  Red Box Zawn
55 Black Corner
-
D  
56 Arete and Corner
-
VD 1
57 Train
-
VD  
58 Ah-li-Ayo
-
MS 1
59 Tenka-io
-
S  
  Porth-y-Gwîn
61 Bonnie
-
VS 4c 1
62 The Whiner
-
VS 4c  
  D-Day Buttress
64 Juno
-
VS 4c 4
65 Hobart's Funnies
-
HVS 5a 2
66 Sword S 4a 5
67 Gold
-
HS 4b 3
68 Omaha HVS 5a 2
69 Atlantic Wall
-
E1 5b * 3
70 Overlord
-
HVS 5a * 2
Climb name Grade
71 Utah
-
VS 4c  
72 Victory
-
E1 5b  
73 Neptune Slab S 4a 1
  Quartz Vein Zawn
75 Route Four
-
S 4a 3
76 Route Five
-
S 4a 4
77 Route Three
-
MVS 4b 3
78 Route Two
-
HS 4a 6
79 Route One
-
S 4a 8
80 Somebody That I Used to Know
-
MVS 4b  
81 Tip Toe
-
HVS 5a  
82 3D
-
HVS 5a 1
83 Digital Release
-
HS 4a  
84 Drip Trip
-
E3 5b *  
85 The Blue Buoy E3 5c *  
  The Horn Zawn
87 Quartz Tower
-
S 4a  
88 Moderate Slab
-
S 4a  
89 Sarff
-
S 4a  
90 Gogwydd
-
VD  
91 Twyllwr
-
S  
92 Cerrig Camu
-
VD  
93 Canada Corner
-
VD  
94 Men in Hats HS 4a  
95 Safety Dance HS 4a  
96 The Horn
-
S  
97 Horn Corner
-
HVS 5a  
  One Stack Zawn
99 Atlantic Ridge
-
HVS 4c  
100 Tourettes Arete
-
S 4a  
101 Just Brew It
-
VS 4c *  
102 A Crozzley Groove
-
VD *  
103 Lovely Day Mr Thomas
-
E3 5b *  
104 Angel of the West E4 5c **  
  Sunset Slab
106 Orcedian Numbers
-
VS 5a  
107 Lateral Adhesion VS 4c  
108 Time Attack
-
VS 5a  
109 Moon Illusion
-
VS 5a  
110 Kick-start
-
VD 1
111 Escape in Downpour D 1
112 Total Brewing XS 5a  
113 Americano HVS 5a 1
  The Range South
115 Louise's Chimney
-
E1 5a  
116 Biscuit Factory
-
E4 5c  
  Independence Slab
118 Independ Ant
-
HVS 5a 1
119 The Corner
-
VD 1
120 Psych 'n Drown
-
HVS 5a 2
121 Misty Days
-
VD 6
122 Tired of Toeing the Line
-
S 9
123 High Stakes
-
HVS 4c 4
124 Independable
-
VS 4b 4
125 Roberts Eye
-
VD 12
126 Walk on the Wild Side VS 4b 8
127 The Mover
-
S 10
128 Plastic Pearl
-
D 10
129 Without Further Ado
-
D 12
130 Girdle Traverse
-
HVS 5c  
131 The Ramp of Pink Emulsion
-
VS 4c 17
132 The High Tide Alternative
-
HVS 4c 2
133 Big Sardine
-
E5 6a **  
  Stormy Monday Slab
135 Stormy Monday
-
E2 5a  
136 Straight and Narrow
-
E1 4c 1
137 Tidal Race
-
HVS 5a  
138 Un-named
-
VS 4c  
139 Captain Haddoxk
-
HVS 4c 2
140 Prawn Crackers
-
S 4a 4
Climb name Grade
  Anvil Porous area
142 32.768
-
D  
143 Anvil Porous
-
HVS 5a  
144 The Follow-Through Ecpurgation HVS 5a  
145 Grimper
-
VS 5a  
146 T"Ann "trum
-
HVS 5a *  
147 The Seamed Wall
-
VS 4c  
148 The Prat in the Flat
-
VD  
149 Gravidational Effect
-
HVD  
150 Zig-Zag Slab
-
VS 4c  
151 Stacked Nuts and Bloody Crabs
-
VS 4c  
152 Who Needs Range West?
-
VS 4c  
153 Terms of Engagement
-
HVS 5a *  
154 Missed the Briefing
-
VS 4b  
155 The Day of the Jellyfish
-
S 4a  
156 Icameisaurus
-
E4 6a  
157 The Couloir of Broken Dreams
-
D  
  Emmenthal Zawn
159 Smooth Operator
-
VS 4c  
160 Reasonable Wall
-
VS 4c  
161 Waddy's Edge
-
VS 4b  
162 Midsummer Madness
-
HS 4a  
163 Kanga
-
HVS 5b 1
164 Tigger
-
E2 5b  
165 Flake Out
-
E2 5b  
166 Emmenthal M * 1
167 Emmenthal
-
E2 5b *  
168 Nempnett Thrubwell
-
E3 5b  
169 Dreygo's Guilt
-
E3 5b  
170 Hieroglyphics
-
E3 5c  
171 Gorgonzola Slab
-
HS 4b 1
172 Direct Finish
-
E1 5a  
  Wensleydale Walls
174 Celtic Promise
-
HVS 5b 1
175 Welsh Rarebit
-
S 2
176 Nice Bit Of Wensleydale Gromit
-
HVS 5a * 2
177 Caws Trap
-
E2 5b * 1
178 Perl Las
-
E3 5c * 2
179 Manchego
-
E2 5b 1
  Housetrap Zawn
181 Housetrap
-
E1 5b *  
182 Surreal Estate
-
E4 6a *  
183 Surfant
-
E3 5c *  
184 The Old Steam Piano
-
E2 5b *  
185 Age of Steam
-
HVS 4c *  
  Pooh Bay
187 Parental Consent E7 6b **  
188 I am Curious Yellow
-
E6 6a **  
189 The Secret of My Excess
-
XS 5b  
190 Winnie the Pooh
-
HVS 5a  
191 Teddy Bears' Picnic
-
E1 5b  
  Dichotomous Wall
193 Dichotomous
-
E3 6a **  
194 Dai-Version E3 5c **  
195 Dai-Wrecked
-
E3 6a  
196 Ego Warriors
-
E5 6b  
  The Fortress (aka: Dinas)
198 Dai on Demand!
-
E4 6a *  
199 The Snake
-
HS 4b  
200 Some VD
-
S  
201 Grazed and Confused
-
E3 5c *  
202 Reuben Friedman's Empty Bed
-
HVS 5a  
203 Honed on the Range
-
E5 6a **  
204 Black Country Route
-
VS 4c **  
205 Tony T's Groove HVS 4c 1
206 Coco Arete HVS 4c  
207 Pregnant Satsuma D  
208 Divided Britain E7 6c *** 3
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers igrieveuk and RyanOsborne