Climbs 180
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude 18m a.s.l
Faces all

Crag features

The Gogarth experience distilled down into smaller, easily digestible portions. A peaceful and very easily accessible area offering a huge variety of short but adventurous single pitch routes from easy slabs to steep caves, with a particularly wide selection of easier routes (a good alternative to Gogarth) as well as some exciting testpieces. Many routes are non-tidal and face a variety of directions, but a sunny and scenic outlook is generally guaranteed.

Approach notes

Park at The Range carpark and follow the guidebook to the crag of your choice, usually 5-10 mins flat stroll.

Restricted Access

Easy access  but tidal. Lots of conservation interest including nesting  birds and a very rare flower - the South Stack Spathulate Fleawort - a nationally rare speices that grows along the cliff edges. No gardening or placing of any additional belay stakes allowed anywhere on this coastline.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Refer to current guide book (Goigarth South by Ground Up) for indivdual seasonal route access info.

Guidebooks

Lovely.
Fiend - 19/May/16
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Treasure Island
2 The Whistling Chimney E3 5c * 1
3 The Crooked Mile XS 5a *  
4 Bottom Feeders (aka: The Golden Fan) XS 5b * 1
5 When Ledges Die E2 5b *  
  Church Rock
7 New Believers E1 5a *  
8 Never Jam Today E6 5c **  
  The Rickety Cliff
10 Foam Party XS *  
11 The Complete Works
-
E5 5c *  
  South Stack View Zawn
13 Flyover
-
D 1
14 Poor Relation
-
S  
15 The Ramp
-
S 1
16 Bass Mild
-
VS 4a  
17 The Cop-out Mild
-
VS 4a  
18 Jugs in Space
-
HVS 5a  
19 One Step Beyond
-
E1 5a * 1
  Botox Zawn
21 Salute of the Tengu
-
E3 5b  
22 Tengu Escape Route
-
HVS 4c  
  Botox Buttress
24 Delicatelesson
-
VS 4a  
25 The RAF Brown Slab
-
VS 4a  
26 Seepage
-
VD  
27 Cracked
-
S  
28 Rock Scar Corner
-
VD  
29 Blackslabbath
-
HD 1
  Great Flake Zawn
31 Strange Little Girl D  
32 Something Better Change
-
VD 1
33 Skin Deep
-
VD  
34 Walk on By
-
MS  
35 Nice in Nice
-
VD  
36 The Girdle S 4a  
37 When the Tide Goes Out MVS 4b  
  Right-hand Finish
39 American Excess
-
XS 5c *  
40 The Banana Spire E4 5c *  
41 Cornflake Crack
-
E1 5a  
42 Cadbury's
-
S 1
43 Great Flake Left Crack
-
VS 4c 2
44 Great Flake Right Crack
-
S  
45 Parental Control VS 4c 1
46 Scruff's Chimney
-
VD  
  Orange Slab
48 Tangerine VS 4b 2
49 The Orange Crack
-
VD 6
50 Clementine
-
MS 4
51 Jaffa
-
VD 2
  Red Box Zawn
53 Black Corner
-
D  
54 Arete and Corner
-
VD 1
55 Train
-
VD  
56 Ah-li-Ayo
-
MS 1
57 Tenka-io
-
S  
  Porth-y-Gwîn
59 Bonnie
-
VS 4c 1
60 The Whiner
-
VS 4c  
  D-Day Buttress
62 Juno
-
VS 4c 3
63 Hobart's Funnies
-
HVS 5a 1
64 Sword S 4a 4
65 Gold
-
HS 4b 3
66 Omaha HVS 5a 2
67 Atlantic Wall
-
E1 5b * 2
68 Overlord
-
HVS 5a * 1
69 Utah
-
VS 4c  
70 Victory
-
E1 5b  
71 Neptune Slab S 4a 1
  Quartz Vein Zawn
73 Route Four
-
S 4a 3
74 Route Five
-
S 4a 4
75 Route Three
-
MVS 4b 3
76 Route Two
-
HS 4a 5
77 Route One
-
S 4a 7
78 Somebody That I Used to Know
-
MVS 4b  
79 Tip Toe
-
HVS 5a  
80 3D
-
HVS 5a  
81 Digital Release
-
HS 4a  
82 Drip Trip
-
E3 5b *  
83 The Blue Buoy E3 5c *  
  The Horn Zawn
85 Quartz Tower
-
S 4a  
86 Moderate Slab
-
S 4a  
87 Sarff
-
S 4a  
88 Gogwydd
-
VD  
89 Twyllwr
-
S  
90 Cerrig Camu
-
VD  
91 Canada Corner
-
VD  
92 Men in Hats HS 4a  
93 Safety Dance HS 4a  
94 The Horn
-
S  
95 Horn Corner
-
HVS 5a  
  One Stack Zawn
97 Atlantic Ridge
-
HVS 4c  
98 Tourettes Arete
-
S 4a  
99 Just Brew It
-
VS 4c *  
100 A Crozzley Groove
-
VD *  
101 Lovely Day Mr Thomas
-
E3 5b *  
102 Angel of the West E4 5c **  
  Sunset Slab
104 Orcedian Numbers
-
VS 5a  
105 Lateral Adhesion VS 4c  
106 Time Attack
-
VS 5a  
107 Moon Illusion
-
VS 5a  
108 Kick-start
-
VD 1
109 Escape in Downpour D 1
110 Total Brewing XS 5a  
111 Americano HVS 5a 1
  The Range South
113 Louise's Chimney
-
E1 5a  
114 Biscuit Factory
-
E4 5c  
  Independence Slab
116 Independ Ant
-
HVS 5a 1
117 The Corner
-
VD 1
118 Psych 'n Drown
-
HVS 5a 2
119 Misty Days
-
VD 4
120 Tired of Toeing the Line
-
S 5
121 High Stakes
-
HVS 4c 4
122 Independable
-
VS 4b 3
123 Roberts Eye
-
VD 7
124 Walk on the Wild Side VS 4b 5
125 The Mover
-
S 6
126 Plastic Pearl
-
D 6
127 Without Further Ado
-
D 8
128 Girdle Traverse
-
HVS 5c  
129 The Ramp of Pink Emulsion
-
VS 4c 14
130 The High Tide Alternative
-
HVS 4c  
131 Big Sardine
-
E5 6a **  
  Stormy Monday Slab
133 Stormy Monday
-
E2 5a  
134 Straight and Narrow
-
E1 4c 1
135 Tidal Race
-
HVS 5a  
136 Un-named
-
VS 4c  
137 Captain Haddoxk
-
HVS 4c  
138 Prawn Crackers
-
S 4a 2
  Anvil Porous area
140 32.768
-
D  
141 Anvil Porous
-
HVS 5a  
142 The Follow-Through Ecpurgation HVS 5a  
143 Grimper
-
VS 5a  
144 T"Ann "trum
-
HVS 5a *  
145 The Seamed Wall
-
VS 4c  
146 The Prat in the Flat
-
VD  
147 Gravidational Effect
-
HVD  
148 Zig-Zag Slab
-
VS 4c  
149 Stacked Nuts and Bloody Crabs
-
VS 4c  
150 Who Needs Range West?
-
VS 4c  
151 Terms of Engagement
-
HVS 5a *  
152 Missed the Briefing
-
VS 4b  
153 The Day of the Jellyfish
-
S 4a  
154 Icameisaurus
-
E4 6a  
155 The Couloir of Broken Dreams
-
D  
  Emmenthal Zawn
157 Smooth Operator
-
VS 4c  
158 Reasonable Wall
-
VS 4c  
159 Waddy's Edge
-
VS 4b  
160 Midsummer Madness
-
HS 4a  
161 Kanga
-
HVS 5b 1
162 Tigger
-
E2 5b  
163 Flake Out
-
E2 5b  
164 Emmenthal M * 1
165 Emmenthal
-
E2 5b *  
166 Nempnett Thrubwell
-
E3 5b  
167 Dreygo's Guilt
-
E3 5b  
168 Hieroglyphics
-
E3 5c  
169 Gorgonzola Slab
-
HS 4b 1
170 Direct Finish
-
E1 5a  
  Wensleydale Walls
172 Celtic Promise
-
HVS 5b  
173 Welsh Rarebit
-
S 1
174 Nice Bit Of Wensleydale Gromit
-
HVS 5a * 1
175 Caws Trap
-
E2 5b *  
176 Perl Las
-
E3 5c * 1
177 Manchego
-
E2 5b  
  Housetrap Zawn
179 Housetrap
-
E1 5b *  
180 Surreal Estate
-
E4 6a *  
181 Surfant
-
E3 5c *  
182 The Old Steam Piano
-
E2 5b *  
183 Age of Steam
-
HVS 4c *  
  Pooh Bay
185 Parental Consent E7 6b **  
186 I am Curious Yellow
-
E6 6a **  
187 The Secret of My Excess
-
XS 5b  
188 Winnie the Pooh
-
HVS 5a  
189 Teddy Bears' Picnic
-
E1 5b  
  Dichotomous Wall
191 Dichotomous
-
E3 6a **  
192 Dai-Version E3 5c **  
193 Dai-Wrecked
-
E3 6a  
194 Ego Warriors
-
E5 6b  
  The Fortress (aka: Dinas)
196 Dai on Demand!
-
E4 6a *  
197 The Snake
-
HS 4b  
198 Some VD
-
S  
199 Grazed and Confused
-
E3 5c *  
200 Reuben Friedman's Empty Bed
-
HVS 5a  
201 Honed on the Range
-
E5 6a **  
202 Black Country Route
-
VS 4c **  
203 Tony T's Groove HVS 4c 1
204 Coco Arete HVS 4c  
205 Pregnant Satsuma D  
206 Divided Britain E7 6c *** 3

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