Climbs 36
Rocktype Culm
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces N

Dave Noddings on Pressure Drop, Speke's Mill Mouth, Culm Coast © Adam Long

Crag features

Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 220ft. Many routes protected by in-situ pegs - and nothing else. Not perhaps for the faint-hearted, but good news for adventurers, who will enjoy Berrlins (HVS 4b/c whose holds "resemble loosely packed playing cards and should not be shuffled"), Hotpoint (E1 5b) and Zanussi (E2 5c with just 4 pegs in 120 ft - and nothing else).

The whole of the S side of the main slab here has fallen away taking with it every route from Berlin on the left up as far as far as, but not including The Wager at the landward end. What's left is a blank slab covered in loose wafers of shale, which may in a few years clean up to provide extremely bold slab climbing.

Approach notes

From Lymebridge (SS 237 228), those who feel like starting the adventure with their car's underside can drive down a rough track. Else just park in the town and walk.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Spekes Mill Mouth
2 Streamline E4 6a ** 1
3 Sacred River
-
E3 6a/b  
4 Red Tape
-
HVS 5b 4
5 Cuchulain
-
VS 4c 3
6 Finn McCool
-
VS 4b 1
7 Odd E5 6a  
8 Pressure Drop E3 5c *** 140
9 Ed
-
E5 6a ** 1
10 Surface Tension
-
E5 6a *  
11 Down to a Sunless Sea
-
E5 6a ** 6
  The North Side
13 Front Loader
-
E3 5c *  
14 Zanussi
-
E2 5c * 1
15 Hotpoint
-
E1 5b * 2
16 Avoiding the Touch
-
HVS 5b 1
17 Parallel Flow
-
E1 5b * 9
18 Tetrapod E3 6a ** 10
19 Both Ends Burning
-
E4 6b * 2
20 Gabion
-
S  
21 The Flying Limpet
-
E3 6b 1
22 Madam Sixtoes
-
E2 5c * 5
23 Penny for the Guy
-
E4 6a *  
24 The Mighty Wurlitzer
-
E4 6b ** 1
25 Archie Andrews
-
VS 4c 4
26 Living with the Loonies
-
E4 6b  
  The South Side
28 The Red 0
-
VD 5
29 Return of The Native E1 5a  
30 Gangway
-
VD 3
31 Berlin E1 4c * 3
32 Steam Power E1 5a 2
33 Mainsail HVS 4c ** 17
34 Reefed Mainsail HVS 4c  
35 The Wager
-
HVS 5a 4
36 Up the Ante E1 5b 2
37 Something On Brownspear Piont
-
M 3a  
  Bay South of Browspear
39 Javelin
-
S  
40 Duff Hunch
-
VD  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mark Kemball