Climbs 39
Rocktype Culm
Altitude Tidal
Faces NW

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power orbs dude! THE most delicate bridge to the finishing flake on the worlds smallest, smoothest slopers © mca

Crag features

Not a huge number of routes but what there are, are good: two Severes, an E2 and two E3s, all worth doing - particularly World's Weird Wall (E3 5c). Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 250ft.

Plus then Great Slab, nothing easier than E5, including Creeping Flesh (E5 6a ***), Hellbound (E6 6b ***) and Smoothtalkin' (E5 6a/b **).

Approach notes

Tidal. Access via boulder beach, only up to half-tide.

Park at Hartland Pt and the S side of picturesque cove.

It is possible to ab in from in-situ stakes (placed 2003) for the Great Slab. This saves the struggle to get down again to the rucksacks and makes the routes virtually non - tidal.

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Available in the Rockfax App

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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Beach Slab
2 Qui-3
E5 6a/b  
3 En Famille
E2 5b  
4 Two of Four
HVS 4c  
5 Titbit
E2 5c *  
6 Titbite
E1 6a  
  Beach Stack
8 Run To The Hills
VS 4b 2
9 Long Road To Ruin VS 4c 2
10 Snuffelupagus VD 4
11 Highway To Hell VS 4b 2
12 Nightrain S 4b 2
13 Kermit
E2 5b 1
14 Elmo
E2 5b 1
15 All Bottled Up
E5 6b  
16 Shake and Stand Well
E3 6a *  
Climb name Grade
17 I Was Looking at the Ceiling and Then I Saw the Sky
E2 5b  
18 Ernie VS 4c 2
19 Bert
VS 4c 2
  The Whale
21 Pop Art
VD 1
22 Psychosonic Cindy D 3
23 Lucy Lastic M 2
  Surreallands Area
25 Surrealands E1 5b 2
26 A Scream Edgeways
E5 5c  
27 Peardrop E1 5b 1
  The Great Slab
29 Slave to the Rhythm E5 6b ** 1
30 Creeping Flesh E5 6b *** 24
31 Lowlife E6 6a/b * 1
32 Hellbound E6 6b *** 4
Climb name Grade
33 Smoothtalkin' E5 6a/b **  
34 Monkey gone to heaven E5 6a **  
  The Main Cliff
36 World's Weird Wall
E3 5b  
37 Flight Path
E2 5a/b  
38 Open Day
E3 6a *  
  The Junkyard
40 Serial Monogomist
S 1
41 Scrapyard Demon S 4a 4
42 Backyard Banshee HS 4a 4
43 Junkyard Angel VS 4b/c 3
44 Cosmik Debris VD 3
45 A Fist Full of Humbugs VD 3
46 Vaudeville Jazz Pooftah
E1 4c  

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