Climbs 38
Rocktype Culm
Altitude Tidal
Faces NW

power orbs dude! THE most delicate bridge to the finishing flake on the worlds smallest, smoothest slopers © mca

Crag features

Not a huge number of routes but what there are, are good: two Severes, an E2 and two E3s, all worth doing - particularly World's Weird Wall (E3 5c). Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 250ft.

Plus then Great Slab, nothing easier than E5, including Creeping Flesh (E5 6a ***), Hellbound (E6 6b ***) and Smoothtalkin' (E5 6a/b **).

Approach notes

Tidal. Access via boulder beach, only up to half-tide.

Park at Hartland Pt and the S side of picturesque cove.

It is possible to ab in from in-situ stakes (placed 2003) for the Great Slab. This saves the struggle to get down again to the rucksacks and makes the routes virtually non - tidal.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Beach Slab
2 Qui-3
-
E5 6a/b  
3 En Famille
-
E2 5b  
4 Two of Four
-
HVS 4c  
5 Titbit
-
E2 5c *  
6 Titbite
-
E1 6a  
  Beach Stack
8 Run To The Hills
-
VS 4b 2
9 Long Road To Ruin VS 4c 2
10 Snuffelupagus VD 2
11 Highway To Hell VS 4b 2
12 Kickstart My Heart VS 4b 2
13 Nightrain S 4b 2
14 Kermit
-
E2 5b 1
15 Elmo
-
E2 5b 1
16 All Bottled Up
-
E5 6b  
17 Shake and Stand Well
-
E3 6a *  
18 I Was Looking at the Ceiling and Then I Saw the Sky
-
E2 5b  
19 Ernie VS 4c 2
20 Bert
-
VS 4c 2
  The Whale
22 Psychosonic Cindy D 2
23 Lucy Lastic M 2
  Surreallands Area
25 Surrealands E1 5b 2
26 Peardrop E1 5b 1
27 A Scream Edgeways
-
E5 5c  
  The Great Slab
29 Slave to the Rhythm E5 6b ** 1
30 Creeping Flesh E5 6b *** 18
31 Lowlife E6 6a/b * 1
32 Hellbound E6 6b *** 4
33 Smoothtalkin' E5 6a/b **  
34 Monkey gone to heaven E5 6a **  
  The Junkyard
36 Scrapyard Demon S 4a 2
37 Backyard Banshee HS 4a 2
38 Junkyard Angel VS 4b/c 2
39 Cosmik Debris VD 2
40 A Fist Full of Humbugs VD 2
  The Main Cliff
42 World's Weird Wall
-
E3 5b  
43 Flight Path
-
E2 5a/b  
44 Open Day
-
E3 6a *  
45 Vaudeville Jazz Pooftah
-
E1 4c  

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