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At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.

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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 44
Rocktype Culm
Altitude Tidal
Faces NW

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Climbers on Blackchurch Rock © EddieBauer

Crag features

An area featuring the "delights" of XS routes (up to 300ft) featuring some splendid crumbly rubbish and imaginary protection. But also features the fantastic and more normal pleasures of slab climbs such as Sacre Coeur (E2 5b) and Jamaican Dub (E3 5c) - which make it well worth turning up.

Approach notes

Tidal on some parts.

Approach feasible from Clovelly and then walk along the coastal footpath. Alternatively, park at Brownsham Farm (SS 286 259) and walk (1mi) through woods to the old limekilns at Mouth Mill, by the crag.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
A short video of a grand day out on the amazing sea stack formation of Blackchurch Rock on the Culm Coast near Hartland in North Devon. There are a number of most excellent routes (including 2 nice VS's at either end) on this fantastic foreshore pinnacle, complete with two walk-through tunnels, but the jewel in the crown is the superlative and most photogenic E2 5b/c "Sacre Coeur" first climbed by the legend Pat Littlejohn in 1974. The route is rightly described by UKC and Rockfax as "a majestic pitch of flawless quality" and a super-classic in the South West of the UK: All constructive feedback or comments welcome and hopefully it may inspire a few folks with sacred hearts and strong calves to climb on Blackchurch Rock and visit this beautiful part of the UK!
BALD EAGLE - 12/Jun/14
Left side of main cliff, Savage God etc, all looked absolutely horrendous, green and yellow slime and lichen, vegetated...cap off to Mr Littlejohn...I can't imagine anybody seeing those routes and wanting to do them...I wonder how many ascents they have had?
HappyTrundler - 24/Jul/11
The Main Cliff looked well grim!
The Pylon King - 30/Aug/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Main Cliff
2 The Shrine
XS 5c * 1
3 Rude Nude E3 5c ** 2
4 The Almighty
E1 5a * 9
5 Pilgrim
XS 5b  
6 The Big Sheep
E3 5c * 1
7 Savage God
E4 5c ** 8
8 Savage God Direct
E4 6a  
9 Blunderbuss
E3 5b * 1
10 The Heathen
XS 5b  
11 Antichrist
E3 5b 3
12 Summerhouse
E3 5b 1
13 The Verger E1 5a * 32
14 Machineries of Joy
E2 5c  
15 Crucial Bunny
E2 5a  
16 Prayermat
E1 4c 7
Climb name Grade
17 Loose Woman E1 5b * 133
18 Barabbas
E1 5a 2
19 Stopford
E1 4c  
20 The Sexton
E3 5c ** 3
21 The Archtempter E3 5b ** 26
22 Lord Bafta E5 5c/6a **  
23 Godspell E5 6a ** 10
24 The Naked God E6 6a ** 4
25 Making Plans for Nigel
XS 5b  
26 The Ghost of Belle Aire E6 6b/c ** 2
27 Eraser Blade E1 5a 3
  Blackchurch Rock
29 Moluscicide
E2 5b 1
30 Noir et Blanc
HVS 5a 5
31 Rite of Spring VS 4c * 80
32 Les Invalides
E2 5c 3
Climb name Grade
33 Sacre Coeur E2 5c *** 402
34 Sacre Coeur Direct
E3 5c *** 3
35 Dance on a Volcano
E3 5c * 15
36 Jamaican Dub E3 6a *** 94
37 Rant E3 6a * 3
38 Notre Dame VS 4b 105
39 The Flame
D 1
  Beach Slab
41 Ace of Spades
HS 4b 1
42 Sacre Bleu
HS 4b 2
43 Terry's Terribly Biscuity Breath
VS 4c 2
44 Frankie
E2 5b 1
45 Crag Slag
E3 5b/c 2
46 Twanged Banjo
VS 4c 1
47 Motorhead
HS 4b  

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