Climbs 24
Rocktype Culm
Altitude 92m a.s.l
Faces S

Castle Rock, Valley of the Rocks © Nicole and Paul

Crag features

Easy to get to, featured in Lorna Doone, offering routes up to 105ft. Notables include Icarus (HS 4a). Should offer an entertaining half-day. Also includes the Devil's Cheeswring, an isolated pinnacle, about 45ft high on its valley side. The descent route is the short SE arete. 

Approach notes

Well signposted from Lynton. Car park free in December (not best for climbing though).

Online guide at no longer works.
useful - 28/Aug/15
Jan 2013, marker updated to correct position.
chrisgoddard - 03/Feb/13
Really nice crag for a day trip. There are many routes that are clean now so you can pick the best ones. Often tourists about at the weekend (not at Devil's cheesewring though) but rarely other climbers.
col3 - 21/Apr/12
Whoever added Castle Rock (JClimber) you have the location completely wrong. The Valley of the Rocks is not above Foreland Point!
granticus - 13/Mar/11
Not bad really. The climbs arent 'clean' (lots of vegetation). Devil's cheeswring is prob best bet (finger of rock at the west end of the valley).
otziiceman - 22/Feb/07
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Castle Rock Boulders 
2Low Sea TraverseV6 **1
3Mid Sea TraverseV3 **1
4High Sea Traverse *V2 *1
5The Torch Arete *V2 *1
6The Torch Wall *V1 *1
 Castle Rock 
8Crack of NoonHVS 5a 23
E3 5c 2
E1 5b 1
11South-West AscentD 25
12Central Crack Left Hand (Flake Crack)VD 20
13Central Crack (Hand Crack)S 4a *29
14Seagulls on Steroids *VS 4c 2
 Devil's Cheesewring 
16South East AreteD 19
17BarcelonaVS 4b 4
18Crack of DooneHS 4b 33
194000 Meter PursuitHS 4b 11
20Olympic WallHVS 4c *12
21Fingers and ThumbsHS 4b **7
22RambleS 4
 Other buttresses 
24ErosS 4a 5
25IcarusHS 4a *20
26Direct Line Finish (Icarus)HVS 5a 5
27Mystic SpiralHVS 5a/b 3
HVS 5a 3
29Bring Out The GimpVD 4
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Smoothhound