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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 25
Rocktype Culm
Altitude 92m a.s.l
Faces S

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Castle Rock, Valley of the Rocks © Nicole and Paul

Crag features

Easy to get to, featured in Lorna Doone, offering routes up to 105ft. Notables include Icarus (HS 4a). Should offer an entertaining half-day. Also includes the Devil's Cheeswring, an isolated pinnacle, about 45ft high on its valley side. The descent route is the short SE arete. 

Approach notes

Well signposted from Lynton. Car park free in December (not best for climbing though).

Can find an archived version of fsnet page here.
IWBMATTKYT - 15/Sep/19
Online guide at no longer works.
useful - 28/Aug/15
Jan 2013, marker updated to correct position.
chrisgoddard - 03/Feb/13
Really nice crag for a day trip. There are many routes that are clean now so you can pick the best ones. Often tourists about at the weekend (not at Devil's cheesewring though) but rarely other climbers.
col3 - 21/Apr/12
Whoever added Castle Rock (JClimber) you have the location completely wrong. The Valley of the Rocks is not above Foreland Point!
granticus - 13/Mar/11
Not bad really. The climbs arent 'clean' (lots of vegetation). Devil's cheeswring is prob best bet (finger of rock at the west end of the valley).
otziiceman - 22/Feb/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Castle Rock Boulders
2 Low Sea Traverse V6 6b ** 1
3 Mid Sea Traverse V3 ** 3
4 High Sea Traverse * V2 * 2
5 The Torch Arete * V2 5c * 2
6 The Torch Wall * V1 5a/b * 2
  Castle Rock
8 Crack of Noon HVS 5a 38
9 Heifer
E3 5c 2
10 Pudge
E1 5b 2
Climb name Grade
11 South-West Ascent D 44
12 Central Crack Left Hand (Flake Crack) VD 47
13 Central Crack (Hand Crack) S 4a * 55
14 Seagulls on Steroids * VS 4c 11
  Devil's Cheesewring
16 South East Arete D 21
17 Barcelona VS 4b 5
18 Crack of Doone HS 4b 39
19 4000 Meter Pursuit HS 4b 15
20 Olympic Wall HVS 4c * 16
Climb name Grade
21 Fingers and Thumbs HS 4b ** 8
22 Ramble S 5
  Other buttresses
24 Eros S 4a 5
25 Icarus HS 4a * 21
26 Direct Line Finish (Icarus) HVS 5a 8
27 Mystic Spiral HVS 5a/b 6
28 Prometheus
HVS 5a 3
29 Bring Out The Gimp VD 4
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Dominic Boon