Climbs 150
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 790m a.s.l
Faces N

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A climber on The Nazgul (E3 5c) Scafell Crag (from the Lake District Climbs Rockfax). © Mark Glaister

Crag features

Pronounced Scawfell, this is a superb high mountain crag best visited in warm and dry weather. Many excellent routes of which the three stars are awarded to Botterills Slab(VS), White Wizard(E3), Ringwraith(E5), Saxon(E2), Moss Gill Grooves(MVS), Moss Gill(S), Hopkinsons Gully(MVS), Moss Ledge Direct(MVS), Woodheads Climb(MS). Length of routes is up to 120m.

Approach notes

Best approached from Wasdale in about an hours uphill grind.

I replaced the ab tat at the mickledore ab point today (10.11.15). Cut away 9 thin pieces and replaced them with 11mm black static and a mallion
Dervey - 10/Sep/15
The traditional descent is via Broad Stand, but another option - not mentioned in the guidebook - is a short ab from tat just up and left (looking out) from BS. Much better than the lethal descent, or long walk via Foxes Tarn...
Richard Alderton - 15/Jul/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Lords Rake I 91
2 New Horizons E8 6c ***  
  Left of Central Buttress
4 Rake's Progress
-
I 12
5 North or Penrith Climb
-
M 1
6 North Climb
-
III 1
7 The Hanging Chimney
-
HVS 5a  
8 Collier's Climb
-
D 1
9 Collier's Climb Original Start
-
HS 4c  
10 Keswick Brothers' Climb
-
VD ** 8
11 Tricouni Slab
-
S 3c * 7
12 Tricouni Slab
-
IV 5 2
  Central Buttress
14 Burning Bridges
-
E4 6a ** 2
15 Mephisto
-
E4 6a * 1
16 Subaudition
-
E3 5c 2
17 Black Rider E5 6b ** 1
18 Shadowfax E4 6a *** 22
19 Botterill's Slab VS 4c *** 511
20 Botterill's Slab (Winter)
-
V 6 *** 24
21 The White Wizard E3 5c *** 65
22 Ringwraith E6 6b *** 7
23 The Nazgul E3 5c *** 90
24 Original Sin E6 6c * 1
25 Foxshooter
-
E4 5c *  
26 Central Buttress E1 5b *** 426
27 Central buttress (Original)
-
E3 5c *** 6
28 Judas Priest
-
E5 6a  
29 Saxon E2 5c *** 184
30 Anglo
-
E1 5b * 4
31 Moss Ghyll Grooves VS 4c *** 411
32 Moss Ghyll Grooves
-
VII 6 * 2
33 Long Stand
-
VS 4c * 4
34 Narrow Stand
-
HVS 5a * 6
35 Last Stand
-
E1 5b 1
36 Slab and Groove Route HVS 4c ** 61
37 Harvest
-
E2 6b 2
38 Harvest Crunch
-
VII 9 ** 1
39 Central Buttress Girdle
-
HVS 5a * 2
40 Moss Ghyll S 4a ** 75
41 Moss Ghyll (Winter)
-
IV 5 *** 80
42 Clockwork Orange HVS 5a  
43 Mechanical Orange
-
VIII 8  
44 Colliers Chimney
-
V 5 *** 6
45 Ring of Air *
-
E2  
  Pisgah
47 The Gripe
-
HVS 5a * 3
48 Pisgah Buttress Direct S ** 66
49 Pisgah Buttress Direct V 6 *** 30
50 Moses Trod
-
S 4
51 Sacrificial Squaddies
-
E2 5b *  
52 Bos'n's Buttress
-
VS 4c * 2
53 Restless Natives
-
VI 6 1
Climb name Grade
54 Bridge of Sighs
-
V 5 1
55 Pisgah Ya Bas
-
HVS 5a  
56 Steep Ghyll Grooves
-
VS 4c 1
57 Steep Ghyll Grooves (Winter)
-
V 6 2
58 Steep Ghyll
-
V 4 ** 25
59 Steep Ghyll Direct start
-
V 5 ** 1
  The Pinnacle
61 Right Wall of Steep Gill
-
MS  
62 Low Man by the Right Wall of Steep Gill
-
V 5  
63 Slingsby's Chimney Route VD ** 90
64 Slingsby's Chimney Route (Winter) IV 5 ** 13
65 The Waiting Room From Steep Gill
-
MVS 4b * 1
66 Pinnacle Face Route
-
VS 4b 4
67 Leftovers
-
VS 4b * 4
68 The Left Edge
-
VS 4c 3
69 Bushwhacker
-
E2 5c * 1
70 Hopkinson's Gully VS 4b *** 57
71 Hopkinson's Gully (Winter)
-
VI 6 ** 2
72 Moonbathing
-
VI 6 *** 7
73 Jone's Route Direct from Lord's Rake HS 4b *** 183
74 Jones's Route Direct (Winter)
-
VII 7 **  
75 Direct from Lord's Rake to Hopkinson's Cairn S 4a *** 16
76 Moss Ledge Direct and Jones' Arete VS 4c *** 124
77 Right-Hand Edge and Pinnacle Face Direct Finish
-
HVS 5b ** 10
78 Meridian
-
E1 5b *  
79 Low Man From Hopkinson's Cairn
-
D 7
80 Edge Hog
-
E1 5b 1
81 Jones' Route from Deep Gill
-
S 3
82 Gibson's Traverse
-
VD 1
83 Gibson's Chimney
-
S  
84 Slab Climb
-
VS 4c 1
85 Bold Eagle
-
HVS 5a 2
86 Central Route - Deep Gill Slabs
-
HS 4b * 4
87 Jones and Collier's Climb
-
VD 2
88 Woodhead's Climb S 4a *** 18
89 De Selincort's Finish
-
MVS 4c  
90 Thompson's Route
-
VD ** 12
91 Professor's Chimney
-
D 1
92 Age Concern
-
VI 6 **  
93 Centre Route
-
VI 6 **  
94 New Professors Chimney
-
II/III 3
95 Old Professors Chimney
-
II * 8
96 Impunity Slabs
-
D  
97 Impunity Slabs (Winter)
-
III *  
98 Slab Finish
-
II **  
99 The Girdle Traverse
-
MVS 5a ** 1
100 The Girdle Traverse (Winter)
-
VII 8 ***  
101 Deep Gill
-
I/II 47
102 West Wall Traverse
-
I 30
103 The Knife-Edge Arete M *** 1
  Deep Ghyll Buttress
105 Upper Deep Gill Buttress
-
MVS 4b *  
106 Upper Deep Gill Route
-
II * 2
Climb name Grade
107 Great Chimney
-
IV 4  
108 The Scarlet Pimpernel
-
E4 6a *  
109 Upper West Wall Climb
-
S  
110 The Unforgettable Fire
-
HVS 5a * 2
111 Ixodes
-
E1 5b *  
112 Def Arete
-
E7 6b **  
113 Alamogordo
-
E5 6a **  
114 The Great Chimney
-
VD 1
115 Swillshark
-
E2 5c *  
116 Jacob's Ladder
-
HS 4a 1
117 Jacob's Ladder (Winter)
-
V 6 1
118 West Wall Climb
-
VD ** 3
119 West Wall Climb (Winter)
-
IV 4 ** 3
120 Doctor Death
-
E1 5a  
121 Grey Bastion
-
VS 5a * 3
122 Insomnia
-
E1 5a 2
123 Morpheus
-
E1 5b * 2
124 Sleeping Crack
-
VS 4c  
125 Gobsite
-
VS 4c  
126 Great Western
-
IV 4 *** 9
127 Sod's Law
-
VI 6 ** 2
128 Sodom
-
V 6 *  
129 Sod All
-
III  
130 Eye Spy
-
V 4  
131 Dharma Armour
-
III 4  
132 Chimney Stack
-
IV 4  
133 Deep Gill Integrale
-
III 3 *** 35
134 Insomnia Route
-
VS  
135 Swan Song
-
E2 5c **  
136 Xerxes
-
HVS 5a *  
  Right of Deep Gill Buttress
138 Castor
-
M 2
139 Castor (Winter)
-
II/III 3
140 Pollux
-
VD 2
141 Pollux (Winter)
-
III 1
142 Moby Dick
-
MVS 4a 1
143 Red Gill Wall
-
MS  
144 Red Gill Buttress
-
VD 1
145 The Banister
-
M ** 3
146 The Banister (Winter)
-
III * 1
147 Crowley's Route
-
M * 2
148 Waiting Wall
-
HVS 5a * 2
149 Rakes Progress
-
1 2
150 Rightmost gully 1 * I  
151 Rightmost gully 2 * I 1
152 West Wall Traverse and Deep Ghyll
-
1 8
  Moved climbs from Scafell Pinnacle
154 High Man By The Central Line *
-
HVS 4c ** 6
155 Saxon Direct * E4 6a *** 2
156 Hilarity *
-
HVS 5b * 1
157 Low Man by the Jubilee Line *
-
M hvs ** 3
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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