Climbs 79
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 871m a.s.l
Faces E

Ed Brown just failing on the last crucial move of Entonox E6 (6c) Scafell East Buttress © robmatheson

Crag features

Great climbing on a high mountain crag, including some of the best routes in the Lake District. Super-classics include Mickledore Grooves (VS), Centaur (HVS), Yellow Slab (HVS), Hells Groove (E1), Lord of the Rings (E2), Ichabod (E2), Roaring Silence (E3), Lost Horizons (E4), Shere Khan (E5), Borderline (E7), Talbot Horizon (E9) and Welcome to the Cruel Word (E9). Other excellent routes are Phoenix (E1), Overhanging Grooves Direct (E2), Chiron (E3), Dyad (E3), Midnight Express (E3), Equinox (E4), Cullinan (E5), The Almighty (E5) and Zeya (E5). Sunny in the morning, though it can seep badly in some areas.

Approach notes

Best approached from Wasdale to Mickledore in about one and a half hours.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 The Lord of the Rings E2 5c *** 20
2 East Buttress Girdle
-
HVS 5a *  
3 Slime Chimney
-
VD  
4 South Chimney
-
HVS 5a, 4c  
5 The Gremlin's Groove
-
VS 4c 2
6 Holy Ghost
-
E2 5c 6
7 Talisman E3 5c * 4
8 Trinity HVS 5b ** 30
9 Thy Will Be Done E8 6c ** 1
10 Incubus E5 6b * 2
11 Bat out of Hell
-
E2 5c ** 3
12 Hell's Groove
-
E1 5b *** 64
13 Hell's Bells
-
E4 6a *  
14 The Almighty
-
E5 6b ** 1
15 Lucius
-
E5 6b ** 1
16 Chimera
-
E1 5b * 3
17 Pegasus
-
HVS 5b * 2
18 Zeus
-
E3 5c ** 5
19 Morning Wall
-
VS 4c 4
20 Phoenix E2 5c ** 45
21 The Arete Finish
-
E2 5c 4
22 Phoenix - Ash Groove Finish E3 5c 1
23 Barad-dur E6 6b ***  
24 Mythical Kings
-
E4 6a * 1
25 Ichabod
-
E2 5c *** 197
26 Roaring Silence
-
E3 5c *** 47
27 Borderline
-
E7 6c ***  
28 Forbidden Colours
-
E4 6a * 3
29 Overhanging Grooves Direct
-
E3 5c ** 6
30 Caradhras
-
E5 6b * 1
31 Gold Rush
-
E1 5b * 3
32 Cerebus
-
E3 5c * 1
33 Chiron
-
E3 5c *** 8
34 The Yellow Slab
-
HVS 4c *** 59
35 Great Eastern Route
-
VS 4c *** 102
36 The Centaur
-
HVS 5a *** 117
37 Equinox
-
E4 6a ** 8
38 Lost Horizons
-
E4 6b *** 48
39 Cullinan
-
E5 6a ** 3
40 Shere Khan
-
E5 6a *** 41
41 Zeya
-
E5 6b **  
42 The Seige Perilous
-
E7 6b **  
43 Shikasta
-
E4 6a * 1
44 Armageddon
-
E2 5c * 1
45 Moonday
-
E2 5c * 2
46 Minotaur
-
E1 5b * 6
47 Overhanging Wall
-
HVS 5a * 2
48 Entonox
-
E6 6c **  
49 S.O.S.
-
E5 6b6b * 1
50 May Day Climb HVS 5b, 4b 7
51 May Day Direct
-
E2 5b, 4b * 6
52 Dyad E3 6a ** 21
53 Edge of Eriador E4 5c ** 9
54 Juno
-
E4 6a 1
55 The Ambleside Brother's Climb
-
E5 6a * 1
56 Leverage
-
E1 5b *** 73
57 Mickledore Grooves
-
VS 4c *** 246
58 Barry's Traverse HVS 5a ** 2
59 The Fulcrum
-
VS 4c ** 40
60 Fulcrum Direct E1 5c 1
61 Mickledore Arete
-
HVS 5a *  
62 Aquavit
-
E4 6b  
63 Midnight Express
-
E3 6a ** 14
64 Chartreuse E1 5b ** 49
65 Strider E1 5b 2
66 Pernod
-
VS 5a * 6
67 Broad Stand
-
D 138
68 When The Fat Lady Sings
-
E2 5b5c 1
  Winter Lines
70 Mickledore Chimney III 8
71 Tia Maria V 6  
72 Minotaur VI 5 ***  
73 Variation Finish IV  
74 Slime Chimney IV 4  
75 May Day Direct VI 6  
76 Overhanging Wall-Original Finish IV 5  
77 Variation Start III  
78 Overhanging Wall V 6  
79 White Slab III 3  
80 Talbot Horizon * E9 6c ***  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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