UKC

Climbs 26
Rocktype Gabbro
Altitude 902m a.s.l
Faces E

North from Blaven summit © Dom Connaway

Crag features

Blaven, which lies outside the main Cuillin has some superb hard rock climbing on the main prow.

A traverse of Clach Glas and Blaven in summer or winter is a low grade expedition (Diff, III) only rivalled by one other mountaineering route for quality - the neighbouring main Cuillin Ridge.

The Great Prow article in Hard Rock is an excellent read.
Stairway to Heaven features in Extreme Rock.

Approach notes

Possible stalking restrictions during the autumn.
Approach from the head of Loch Slapin on the Elgol road. 2 hours.

There are no comments from visitors to this crag.
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Winter Buttress
2 Escape From Colditz
-
III ** 11
  South Buttress
4 South Buttress Gully, Blabheinn II ** 17
5 Central Pillar S 4
6 Birthday Groove VD ** 5
7 Birthday Groove
-
IV 5 1
8 Virgo IV 5 ** 2
9 Judas
-
S 1
10 The Outsider
-
VD 1
Climb name Grade
  The Great Prow
12 CD Buttress HD * 3
13 Sidewinder
-
S * 2
14 Jib
-
E1 5b * 9
15 Stairway to Heaven
-
E5 6a *** 16
16 Finger in the Dyke
-
E5 6a *** 1
17 The Great Prow
-
HVS 5a * 50
18 Splinter Finish to Great Prow E2 5c **  
19 Ecstasis
-
HVS 5a *** 2
20 Clough's Cleft
-
V 6 ***  
Climb name Grade
21 A Buttress D * 2
22 B Buttress M * 1
23 Dyke Route 3 ** 2
24 South East Flank Bla Bheinn
-
2 8
25 The whip *
-
HS 4c **  
  Traverses
27 Clach Glas - Blaven Traverse (Blabheinn) D *** 357
28 Clach Glas - Blaven Winter Traverse
-
III *** 4
29 Pinnacle Gully/Summit Gully * II 1
30 Ledge Route * III 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Nathan Adam