Climbs 25
Rocktype Volcanic tuff
Altitude Tidal
Faces W

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Oliver Wheeldon on the Stunning "Purple Haze" © John Henry Wynn

Crag features

Includes the amazing Il Duce (E5 6a) and other multi-pitch climbs up to 370ft - value for your money. Access details important: this has taken a lot of BMC negotiation.

Approach notes

Tidal.

Park at Tintagel. Reach the seaward part of the headland by taking a narrow footbridge - may have to pay toll.

Restricted Access

Permission from English Heritage must be sought before climbing at Tintagel Head by emailing or sending a letter to: The Property Supervisor, Tintagel Castle, Tintagel, Cornwall, PL34 0HE. Permission is unlikely to be denied, but English Heritage need to brief climbers before they visit on a number of points, so don't cut corners and avoid contacting them. Also ensure you contact them well in advance of your visit to give enough time for the team at Tingagel to deal with your request.

Access is only available during normal opening hours which are:

  • Nov-Mar (Sat and Sun only): 10am – 4pm
  • Apr–Jun (daily): 10am – 6pm
  • Jul-Aug (daily): 10am – 7pm
  • Sep (daily): 10am – 6pm
  • Oct (daily): 10am – 5pm

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014)

Out of print:
Douglas Richardson Property Supervisor English Heritage Tintagel Castle Tintagel PL34 0HE Tel: 01840 770328 Fax: 01840 772105 douglas.richardson@english-heritage.org.uk
petegunn - 19/Apr/14
the disciption says II duce is E4 6a but the route list says E5 6c....
The Green Giant - 29/May/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North Cliff
2 Dark Comedy
-
HVS 5a  
3 A Weekend on Mars
-
E3 5c *  
4 Astroslide
-
E3 5c ***  
5 Overkeel
-
E5 6b ***  
6 Wicked Gravity
-
E4 6a *** 1
7 Chancelot
-
E5 6a ***  
8 One Stood against Many
-
E5 6a ***  
9 Knights of the Intriguing Niche
-
E4 5c *  
10 Legend Has It
-
E2 5c *  
Climb name Grade
11 Frank's Crack
-
E2 5b *  
12 Frank's Corner
-
E3 5c **  
13 Gypsy Queen
-
E6 6b ***  
  High Cliff
15 Isle of Avalon
-
E5 6b *  
16 Vagabond E4 5c *** 3
17 Ocean Colour Dream
-
E6 6a ***  
18 Il Duce E5 6a *** 48
19 Faschisti
-
E5 6b **  
20 King's Arete E4 5c ** 4
Climb name Grade
21 The Republican Start (to King's Arete)
-
E2 5b  
22 Trail Blazer
-
HVS 4c  
23 Travelling Man
-
E4 5c  
24 Pathfinder
-
E5 5c **  
  South Cliff
26 Houdini
-
VS 4c  
27 The Break
-
S  
28 Astral Weeks
-
E5 6a ***  

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