Climbs 25
Rocktype Culm
Altitude Tidal
Faces W

Oliver Wheeldon on the Stunning "Purple Haze" © John Henry Wynn

Crag features

Includes the amazing Il Duce (E4 6a) and other multi-pitch climbs up to 370ft - value for your money. Access details important: this has taken a lot of BMC negotiation.

Approach notes


Park at Tintagel. Reach the seaward part of the headland by taking a narrow footbridge - may have to pay toll.

Restricted Access

If you wish to climb here you must first ask for permission from the English Heritage Property Manager Matt Ward. Permission is unlikely to be denied, but English Heritage need to brief climbers before they visit on a number of points, so please don't cut corners and avoid contacting them.

Permission can be gained by either emailing or sending a letter to Matt Ward, Tintagel Castle, Tintagel, Cornwall, PL34 0HE. Please send your email or letter well in advance of your visit.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014)

Out of print:
Douglas Richardson Property Supervisor English Heritage Tintagel Castle Tintagel PL34 0HE Tel: 01840 770328 Fax: 01840 772105
petegunn - 19/Apr/14
the disciption says II duce is E4 6a but the route list says E5 6c....
The Green Giant - 29/May/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 North Cliff 
2Dark Comedy
HVS 5a  
3A Weekend on Mars
E3 5c * 
E3 5c *** 
E5 6b *** 
6Wicked Gravity
E4 6a *** 
E5 6a *** 
8One Stood against Many
E5 6a *** 
9Knights of the Intriguing Niche
E4 5c * 
10Legend Has It
E2 5c * 
11Frank's Crack
E2 5b * 
12Frank's Corner
E3 5c ** 
13Gypsy Queen
E6 6b *** 
 High Cliff 
15Isle of Avalon
E5 6b * 
16VagabondE4 5c ***2
17Ocean Colour Dream
E6 6a *** 
18Il DuceE5 6a ***45
E5 6b ** 
20King's AreteE4 5c **5
21The Republican Start (to King's Arete)
E2 5b  
22Trail Blazer
HVS 4c  
23Travelling Man
E4 5c  
E5 5c ** 
 South Cliff 
VS 4c  
27The Break
28Astral Weeks
E5 6a *** 

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