Climbs 29
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

Crag features

Another excellent sandstone slab, and with a good choice of grades. The rock here is well-supplied with edges and cracks, and the most alluring ticks are probably Caerfai Crack and Armorican. The crag is a two-fold affair, with the easier lines on the higher-positioned left-hand end; the taller, darker slab on the right provides the longer and more adventurous forays into the Extreme grades plus a classic VS.

Approach notes

Drive up the hill to the edge of St David's (heading east), then take the first right to Caerfai Bay. Follow this road (past two rather expensive campsites) to reach the free car park at the end (the view here is absolutely STUNNING). Walk south-east on the coastal path; at around 600m, you'll reach a bend in the path and the top of the two-part slab, where five or so abseil stakes will be evident. It's possible to scramble into the crag from the left-hand side (looking in) utilising slabs and a ramp system - to locate this, first trend rightwards (north), then swing back southwards to gain the crag base. An alternative is an abseil down the crag's centre.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Pembroke

The famous Pembroke Rockfax has returned with this glorious full-colour version packed with classic routes and all the wonderful features that you have come to expect from Rockfax. It is now twice the size of the old 1995 book and has some of the biggest and clearest photo-topos that have ever been published in a UK guidebook.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Pembroke Rock (2016)
Pembroke Vol 1 - North Pembroke (2013)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Authorised Diversion
-
HS 4b 27
2 Freak In VD 3
3 Mildred Mindwarp HS 4b * 473
4 White Wall HS 4b * 486
5 Nameless VS 4c * 429
6 Unknown Sentry HVS 5a * 376
7 The Bryn VS 4c * 381
8 Caerfai Crack HS 4b * 769
9 White Corner D * 238
10 Submarine Slab VS 4b 249
11 Burnt Arete
-
VD 98
12 Scorch Groove D * 147
13 Orogeny E2 5b ** 252
14 Armorican VS 4c *** 1163
15 Age Gap E2 5b * 35
16 Age Concern E3 5c * 63
17 Uncertain Smile E2 5b ** 86
18 Life's Just a Ballgame
-
E4 5c 1
19 Curse of the Cragmonsters
-
E4 6a * 1
20 Crawl of the Wild
-
E1 5b * 9
21 Ridgeway
-
VD 1
22 Old Cross Corner
-
VS 4c  
23 City Slab
-
VS 4c 1
24 Farmer's Groove
-
S 4a 1
25 Crunchie
-
HVS 4a  
26 Coconut Crack
-
S  
27 Miss Coconut
-
HVS 5a  
28 The Bryn Left Hand * HVS 5b ** 15
29 Age Concern Direct * E1 5b **  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer loundsy