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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 23
Rocktype Culm

Faces SW

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Darren Russell following the serious first pitch of the huge slab expedition Wrecker's Slab (VS 4b) Cornakey Cliff © Mark Glaister

Crag features

An archetypal culm coast cliff, with overlapping slabs of occasionally loose rock, but also some great routes up to 410ft - such as the classic Wreckers Slab (VS 4b), but also Stormy Weather (HVS 5a) and Sunday Bloody Sunday (E2 5c).

Approach notes

Tidal: only accessible via Yeol Mouth at half-tide or lower.
Parking no longer allowed at Cornakey Farm (SS 210 163) (according to the BMC database).

Update this Crag

Last updated on 24/Oct/2019

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Guidebooks

South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014)
Javu website new routes

Out of print:

North Devon and Cornwall (1988)

Update Guidebooks

Descent rope in place and in ok condition 12th June 2014. Dave 88 - 16/Jun/14
Climbed wreckers slab today. The decent path down is showing lots of signs of very recent rockfall and the final bit was still falling when we got to it the groung in the area is veey unstable. We abbed down the back side of the ridge. The route itself seemed all good though once you got to it george87 - 15/Jan/13
In-situ rope is still there on the descent, and in pretty good nick. Dave 88 - 19/Nov/11
The stake at the top of stormy weather has been replaced. Thanks to the brave northcoasteer who carried a sledge hammer all that way. Han Woolley - 22/Oct/10
This is a long shot but here goes... I was climbing on Stormy Weather on 26,6,2010. Unfortunately one of my mates had a bad fall so we had to leave in a hurry. Two of my cams are still in the route, if any one finds them and would like to return them I would be very grateful as I don't live in Cornwall. My email is mxjxl@hotmail.com Many thanks Mendip Marty - 27/Jun/10
Access to the bottom good. When ur heading down, Head left and hug the cliff edge for a scree slope and tricky descent, or keep right for a bushy safer descent (imo). Do not climb "The Plank" unless you are well experienced and have an assortment of pegs. The top is EXTREMELY loose, in the fullest sense of the word! Check Javu.co.uk new routes section, for a more exciting version of Wreckers. "Wreckers Right Hand", bringing back the looseness and exposure :) bunn.aroundthebloc - 24/May/10
Stake at top of stormy weather is now useless snapped 14/2/10 When I breathed on it, needs replacing!! bigrob - 15/Feb/10
There is (currently at least) some tatty in-situ rope for the final part of the descent path mentioned as eroded in the guide. quadmyre - 10/Jul/07

	Climb name		Grade
1	Waste of Time		VD
2	The Nose	-	VD	1
	The Seaward Slab
4	Muggy Weather		VS 4b	3
5	Stormy Weather		HVS 5a **	112
6	Swell Line		HVS 4c	1
7	Sunday Bloody Sunday		E2 5c **	40
8	Sailing the Seas of Cheese	-	E4 5c *	3
9	Bradworthy 5	-	HVS 5a	4

	Climb name		Grade
10	Cancer Crack	-	VS 4b	5
11	Gun Money	-	E1 5c *
12	Spanking Colonel	-	E1 5a
13	Dinner with the Creggs	-	HVS 4c
	The Main Slab
15	The Plank		HVS 4c *	2
16	Smugglers' Slab		VS 4a *	32
17	Jo		HVS	2
18	Heaven and Hell		HVS 5a *	9

	Climb name	Grade
19	Jolly Hell	HVS 4b	4
20	Jolly Roger	VS 4c	5
21	Wreckers' Slab	VS 4b **	552
	The Landward Slab
23	Duty Free	VS 4c *
24	Bootleggers	VS 4c
25	Resurrection	E1 5b **
26	Decapitation	HS 4b

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