UKC

Climbs 23
Rocktype Culm

Faces SW

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Darren Russell following the serious first pitch of the huge slab expedition Wrecker's Slab (VS 4b) Cornakey Cliff © Mark Glaister

Crag features

An archetypal culm coast cliff, with overlapping slabs of occasionally loose rock, but also some great routes up to 410ft - such as the classic Wreckers Slab (VS 4b), but also Stormy Weather (HVS 5a) and Sunday Bloody Sunday (E2 5c).

Approach notes

Tidal: only accessible via Yeol Mouth at half-tide or lower.
Parking no longer allowed at Cornakey Farm (SS 210 163) (according to the BMC database).

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Last updated on 24/Oct/2019

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Guidebooks

South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014)
Javu website new routes
Out of print:
Update Guidebooks
Descent rope in place and in ok condition 12th June 2014.
Dave 88 - 16/Jun/14
Climbed wreckers slab today. The decent path down is showing lots of signs of very recent rockfall and the final bit was still falling when we got to it the groung in the area is veey unstable. We abbed down the back side of the ridge. The route itself seemed all good though once you got to it
george87 - 15/Jan/13
In-situ rope is still there on the descent, and in pretty good nick.
Dave 88 - 19/Nov/11
The stake at the top of stormy weather has been replaced. Thanks to the brave northcoasteer who carried a sledge hammer all that way.
Han Woolley - 22/Oct/10
This is a long shot but here goes... I was climbing on Stormy Weather on 26,6,2010. Unfortunately one of my mates had a bad fall so we had to leave in a hurry. Two of my cams are still in the route, if any one finds them and would like to return them I would be very grateful as I don't live in Cornwall. My email is mxjxl@hotmail.com Many thanks
Mendip Marty - 27/Jun/10
Access to the bottom good. When ur heading down, Head left and hug the cliff edge for a scree slope and tricky descent, or keep right for a bushy safer descent (imo). Do not climb "The Plank" unless you are well experienced and have an assortment of pegs. The top is EXTREMELY loose, in the fullest sense of the word! Check Javu.co.uk new routes section, for a more exciting version of Wreckers. "Wreckers Right Hand", bringing back the looseness and exposure :)
bunn.aroundthebloc - 24/May/10
Stake at top of stormy weather is now useless snapped 14/2/10 When I breathed on it, needs replacing!!
bigrob - 15/Feb/10
There is (currently at least) some tatty in-situ rope for the final part of the descent path mentioned as eroded in the guide.
quadmyre - 10/Jul/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Waste of Time VD  
2 The Nose
-
 VD 1
  The Seaward Slab
4 Muggy Weather VS 4b 3
5 Stormy Weather HVS 5a ** 111
6 Swell Line HVS 4c 1
7 Sunday Bloody Sunday E2 5c ** 40
8 Sailing the Seas of Cheese
-
 E4 5c * 3
9 Bradworthy 5
-
 HVS 5a 4
Climb name Grade
10 Cancer Crack
-
 VS 4b 5
11 Gun Money
-
 E1 5c *  
12 Spanking Colonel
-
 E1 5a  
13 Dinner with the Creggs
-
 HVS 4c  
  The Main Slab
15 The Plank HVS 4c * 2
16 Smugglers' Slab VS 4a * 32
17 Jo HVS 2
18 Heaven and Hell HVS 5a * 9
Climb name Grade
19 Jolly Hell HVS 4b 4
20 Jolly Roger VS 4c 5
21 Wreckers' Slab VS 4b ** 549
  The Landward Slab
23 Duty Free VS 4c *  
24 Bootleggers VS 4c  
25 Resurrection E1 5b **  
26 Decapitation HS 4b  

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