Climbs 48
Rocktype Culm
Altitude 5m a.s.l
Faces W

Evening light at Gull rock - Marsland © Mark Davis

Crag features

Not high - routes up to 120ft - but interesting, sunny and near a family beach (Welcombe Beach). Slabby routes. Easily the best is Walking On The Moon (HVS 5a). 26/3/2011 Abseil pegs in poor condition, in situ back up rope seen better dasy if anyone goin that way could replace it great! Peg in argaunout now dead as is peg in crazy streak/ousieux, lead boots pegs so so

Intermediate Warning: A serious accident occurred on this crag in May 2015. The reasons have not been established so until the cause is known please take care on route selection and when abseiling.

28/08/16 - Abseil above main slabs is now relatively safe, using ropes round three massive spikes as well as the rusty peg. Only a matter of time before the ropes start weathering though.

Approach notes

Tidal in many parts, though the central slab should be uncovered at high water.
Reached either by traversing from Welcombe Beach (low tide) or Marsland Mouth. Or scramble down the headland by a faint path to the top of the promontory, and abseil (pegs in situ).
Both Rockfax and SW Climbs imply that the Welcombe Beach approach is accessible 3 hours either side of low tide. We left rapidly just 2 hours after low tide, and had to wade through knee-deep water! Also worth noting that although the crah dries very quickly, the boulders on the beach take more time, and many of them (the green and brown ones) are treacharously slippery when wet an hence slow going - the described 25 minute approach took is an hour and a quarter on the way there!

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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
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A shame neither guidebook mentions the scrambling approach, that would have increased our climbing time to more than 2 routes!
Simon Caldwell - 30/Aug/16
We left some static rope and a carabiner above Red Carnation. So, there's now an abseil point above the rock pool climbs, although someone might want to bring a maillon with them as there's currently only a snap-gate in place (hasty improvisation)!
ianlaw - 09/Apr/15
The abseil stake to the top of Baywatch Wall no longer appears to be in place, so the walk around the bay is the only sensible access route.
Alex Thompson - 31/Aug/14
Abseiled in twenty metres up the hill/North from the stream that comes down through Marsland woods, down a loose shale slope that I thought would make a reasonable exit when the tide came in - my sixty metres rope was about five short so I slid down the final rubble/mud ramp. The rope was fixed I could use it to help on the way back - I came up the rope with a prussik, then belayed partner up. Was tough for both parties and could have escaped more easily off the back of the Gull Rock headland (above Haile Selasse probably best). Oh well, you live and learn...
Motown - 13/Jan/13
If you get cut off by the tide you will have to face the Alpine ascent up the ridge. The ground is very unstable and whilst it is advisable to rope up there is very little solid protection. I once descended this way ... never again!
Kafoozalem - 09/May/12
A great crag in a great situation, best approach is via the beach, but be careful of the tidal, we got caught out and had to walk back out over the cliffs, puffed out. Take small wires as protection is scarse in places, abundmet of stakes and a few pegs.
Chris M at work - 16/Jun/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Micro Slab 
2HypoHVD 3
3SycoVS 4a  
4SlabbyMVS 4b 3
6MicroHS 4a/b *2
7SteveVD *4
8Wet Corner
S 1
 Gull Rock 
10Gullible TooS 1
11Tha' Wer' EasyHS 1
12FitzharberHS 1
13Little LambsVS 4c 1
14DeimosVS 4c  
15Silence of the Lambs
VS 4b  
16The Teardrop ExplodesE4 5c  
17Electric LemonadeE1 5b 2
18Tha' Wer' 'ArdE1 5b  
 Main Cliff 
21Maxland Armadillo
S 9
VS 4b 12
23Savage Poodle
VD 4
24Red CarnationVS 4c 10
25Rock-Pool Crack
HS 4b 15
26Rock-Pool Slab
VS 4c 3
27Limpet BizkitVS 4b 1
 The Central Slab 
29Seaward EdgeHS 4a *106
30Shivering TimbersVS 4b *130
31Solid AirVS 4b **211
32ArgonautHVS 4c 34
33Crazy StreakE1 5a *32
34OiseauxE1 5b **62
35Walking on the MoonHVS 5a **175
36Lead BootsE1 5b *47
37Wicks Folly
VS 4c 30
38Haile Dubious
E2 5c  
39Magical Staircase
S 30
40Summer Wine
HVS 5b * 
 The Landward Slabs 
42Thief of BaghdadE4 5c *11
43ArabesqueE4 5c *1
44Wolf Solent
E2 5b  
45Breaking TimeE3 5b/c  
E2 5b  
47Haile SelassieE2 5c **73
48Bare Necessities
E5 6a * 
49Gadener's Delight
E1 5a  
 Baywatch Wall 
51Pale Fire
E2 5c  
52Final StrawXS 4b 1
53Booby PrizeE6 6b ***16
54Safe as MilkE2 5b 2

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