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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 48
Rocktype Culm

Faces W

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Rob Byrom and Caz Neely clocking up some early season mileage on Solid Air (VS 4b) Gull Rock © Mark Glaister

Crag features

Not high - routes up to 120ft - but interesting, sunny and near a family beach (Welcombe Beach). Slabby routes. Easily the best is Walking On The Moon (HVS 5a). 26/3/2011 Abseil pegs in poor condition, in situ back up rope seen better dasy if anyone goin that way could replace it great! Peg in argaunout now dead as is peg in crazy streak/ousieux, lead boots pegs so so

Intermediate Warning: A serious accident occurred on this crag in May 2015. The reasons have not been established so until the cause is known please take care on route selection and when abseiling.

28/08/16 - Abseil above main slabs is now relatively safe, using ropes round three massive spikes as well as the rusty peg. Only a matter of time before the ropes start weathering though.

Approach notes

Tidal in many parts, though the central slab should be uncovered at high water.
Reached either by traversing from Welcombe Beach (low tide) or Marsland Mouth. Or scramble down the headland by a faint path to the top of the promontory, and abseil (pegs in situ).
Both Rockfax and SW Climbs imply that the Welcombe Beach approach is accessible 3 hours either side of low tide. We left rapidly just 2 hours after low tide, and had to wade through knee-deep water! Also worth noting that although the crah dries very quickly, the boulders on the beach take more time, and many of them (the green and brown ones) are treacharously slippery when wet an hence slow going - the described 25 minute approach took is an hour and a quarter on the way there!

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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Do not approach from Welcombe beach if you value the paintwork on your car. I've visited twice now and ended up with massive scratches due to the poorly maintained lane down to the bay. 40 mins of boulder hopping to the crag. 3 hrs either side of low seems right, but don't push it! Abseil in good condition.
cdpuk - 16/Sep/19
After getting cut off by the tide we first tried to ab down the N side of the promontory, but this was pointless as there are other deep sections further on. Eventually we scrambled back and escaped S along the beach to the descent for Cornakey Cliff - easy enough but a lot of uphill at the end of the day!
Rob Davies - 13/May/17
A shame neither guidebook mentions the scrambling approach, that would have increased our climbing time to more than 2 routes!
Simon Caldwell - 30/Aug/16
We left some static rope and a carabiner above Red Carnation. So, there's now an abseil point above the rock pool climbs, although someone might want to bring a maillon with them as there's currently only a snap-gate in place (hasty improvisation)!
ianlaw - 09/Apr/15
The abseil stake to the top of Baywatch Wall no longer appears to be in place, so the walk around the bay is the only sensible access route.
Alex Thompson - 31/Aug/14
Abseiled in twenty metres up the hill/North from the stream that comes down through Marsland woods, down a loose shale slope that I thought would make a reasonable exit when the tide came in - my sixty metres rope was about five short so I slid down the final rubble/mud ramp. The rope was fixed I could use it to help on the way back - I came up the rope with a prussik, then belayed partner up. Was tough for both parties and could have escaped more easily off the back of the Gull Rock headland (above Haile Selasse probably best). Oh well, you live and learn...
Motown - 13/Jan/13
If you get cut off by the tide you will have to face the Alpine ascent up the ridge. The ground is very unstable and whilst it is advisable to rope up there is very little solid protection. I once descended this way ... never again!
Kafoozalem - 09/May/12
A great crag in a great situation, best approach is via the beach, but be careful of the tidal, we got caught out and had to walk back out over the cliffs, puffed out. Take small wires as protection is scarse in places, abundmet of stakes and a few pegs.
Chris M at work - 16/Jun/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Micro Slab
2 Hypo HVD 3
3 Syco VS 4a 1
4 Slabby MVS 4b 3
5 Toto S 1
6 Micro HS 4a/b * 2
7 Steve VD * 4
8 Wet Corner
S 1
  Gull Rock
10 Gullible Too S 1
11 Tha' Wer' Easy HS 1
12 Fitzharber HS 1
13 Little Lambs VS 4c 1
14 Deimos VS 4c  
15 Silence of the Lambs
VS 4b  
16 The Teardrop Explodes E4 5c  
17 Electric Lemonade E1 5b 3
18 Tha' Wer' 'Ard E1 5b  
Climb name Grade
19 Elend VD  
  Main Cliff
21 Maxland Armadillo
S 9
22 Popadom
VS 4b 13
23 Savage Poodle
VD 4
24 Red Carnation VS 4c 12
25 Rock-Pool Crack
HS 4b 17
26 Rock-Pool Slab
VS 4c 3
27 Limpet Bizkit VS 4b 3
  The Central Slab
29 Seaward Edge HS 4a * 129
30 Shivering Timbers VS 4b * 169
31 Solid Air VS 4b ** 264
32 Argonaut HVS 4c 41
33 Crazy Streak E1 5a * 41
34 Oiseaux E1 5b ** 71
35 Walking on the Moon HVS 5a ** 201
36 Lead Boots E1 5b * 52
Climb name Grade
37 Wicks Folly
VS 4c 35
38 Haile Dubious
E2 5c  
39 Magical Staircase VS 4c 34
40 Summer Wine
HVS 5b *  
  The Landward Slabs
42 Thief of Baghdad E4 5c * 11
43 Arabesque E4 5c * 1
44 Wolf Solent
E2 5b  
45 Breaking Time E3 5b/c  
46 Ragamuffin E2 5b  
47 Haile Selassie E2 5c ** 66
48 Bare Necessities
E5 6a * 1
49 Gadener's Delight
E1 5a  
50 Final Straw XS 4b 1
  Baywatch Wall
52 Pale Fire
E2 5c  
53 Booby Prize E6 6b *** 9
54 Safe as Milk E2 5b 2

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