Evening light at Gull rock - Marsland © Mark Davis
Not high - routes up to 120ft - but interesting, sunny and near a family beach (Welcombe Beach). Slabby routes. Easily the best is Walking On The Moon (HVS 5a). 26/3/2011 Abseil pegs in poor condition, in situ back up rope seen better dasy if anyone goin that way could replace it great! Peg in argaunout now dead as is peg in crazy streak/ousieux, lead boots pegs so so
Intermediate Warning: A serious accident occurred on this crag in May 2015. The reasons have not been established so until the cause is known please take care on route selection and when abseiling.
28/08/16 - Abseil above main slabs is now relatively safe, using ropes round three massive spikes as well as the rusty peg. Only a matter of time before the ropes start weathering though.
Tidal in many parts, though the central slab should be uncovered at high water.
Reached either by traversing from Welcombe Beach (low tide) or Marsland Mouth. Or scramble down the headland by a faint path to the top of the promontory, and abseil (pegs in situ).
Both Rockfax and SW Climbs imply that the Welcombe Beach approach is accessible 3 hours either side of low tide. We left rapidly just 2 hours after low tide, and had to wade through knee-deep water! Also worth noting that although the crah dries very quickly, the boulders on the beach take more time, and many of them (the green and brown ones) are treacharously slippery when wet an hence slow going - the described 25 minute approach took is an hour and a quarter on the way there!
|6||Micro||HS 4a/b *||2|
|11||Tha' Wer' Easy||HS||1|
|13||Little Lambs||VS 4c||1|
|15||Silence of the Lambs||
|16||The Teardrop Explodes||E4 5c|
|17||Electric Lemonade||E1 5b||3|
|18||Tha' Wer' 'Ard||E1 5b|
|24||Red Carnation||VS 4c||9|
|27||Limpet Bizkit||VS 4b||1|
|The Central Slab|
|29||Seaward Edge||HS 4a *||109|
|30||Shivering Timbers||VS 4b *||136|
|31||Solid Air||VS 4b **||219|
|33||Crazy Streak||E1 5a *||34|
|34||Oiseaux||E1 5b **||64|
|35||Walking on the Moon||HVS 5a **||164|
|36||Lead Boots||E1 5b *||46|
|HVS 5b *|
|The Landward Slabs|
|42||Thief of Baghdad||E4 5c *||11|
|43||Arabesque||E4 5c *||1|
|45||Breaking Time||E3 5b/c|
|47||Haile Selassie||E2 5c **||61|
|E5 6a *|
|52||Final Straw||XS 4b||1|
|53||Booby Prize||E6 6b ***||6|
|54||Safe as Milk||E2 5b||2|
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