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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 35
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 450m a.s.l
Faces E

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Jonathan Parton Climbing Pitch 5, left hand Arête, Inspired by similar photo. Awesome Exposure. © Huw Mithan

Crag features

Some fine routes a long way from the road. Great multi-pitch routes up to 740ft, including Main Wall (HS 4b), The Grooves (E1 5b), Lubyanka (E3 6a) and Long Kesh (E5 6b).

Approach notes

A very, very long walk in from anywhere. Not the place to have an epic, accident or to get benighted. Head torch essential since you probably will come home in darkness anyway.

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North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Llanberis (2009)
North Wales Rock (2006)

Out of print:
As said already, the above access description is wrong. It's up at the top of the pass. You can see the car from the crag.
Longsufferingropeholder - 09/Sep/12
Ignore the above description - its not a long walk in. steep maybe but not long.
The Pylon King - 12/Jan/08
More N than E facing, hence it's in the shade most of the day. No pegs on belay at end of pitch 2 of Main Wall (as guidebook states) but belay is still possible.
tchnorton - 14/Sep/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Sargeant's Gully
II 3 ** 212
2 Cwm Glas Ridge
1 * 101
3 Gyrn Las 3 ** 113
4 Gwter Fawr
I * 5
5 Face Route
IV 4 ** 34
6 Afon Las I/II * 7
7 The Chasms
M 3
8 The Chasms (Winter)
9 Bogus Mountain Journey
E1 5a  
10 Lonley Corner
VS 4c  
11 Central Route HS 5
12 Great Gully
VD * 10
Climb name Grade
13 The Great Gully (Winter)
14 Trauma Grooves
E1 5a 2
15 Main Wall HS 4b *** 1149
16 Subsidiary Groove E1 5b * 40
17 Lubyanka E3 5c *** 175
18 Long Kesh E5 6b ** 7
19 The Skull E4 6a *** 129
20 Hindenburg E5 6a * 1
21 The Wrath of Khan
E6 6b **  
22 The Great Buttress
E2 5c ** 34
23 The Green Caterpillar
24 The Prune
E2 5c  
Climb name Grade
25 Pinocchio's Furniture E2 5b  
26 Sunday School Outing
E4 6a  
27 The Terminator
E3 6a  
28 The Grooves E1 5b *** 558
29 The Overhanging Arete E2 5b *** 122
30 The Edge of Time E4 6a ** 20
31 Schoolmaster's Gully
32 Yellowstone Gully
33 Crossbones
E3 6a  
  Craig Chwarennog
35 Steel Appeal
E5 6b **  
36 New Era
E6 6b **  

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