Climbs 148
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces SW

Andy Reeve © chris fox

Crag features

This army-free region needs little introduction for most seasoned visitors; just about every Pembroke devotee has spent time and energy devouring the crag's colossal spread of highly-charged classics. These mega-lines include Tactician (HVS), The Arrow (E1), Deranged (E2), Space Cadet (E3), Tangerine Dream (E4) and Get Some In (E5). Have no fear; your ticklist will prove to be almost unquenchable. The one minor glitch in the proceedings is the mammoth rockfalls that have taken place during the last decade - gone is Conscientious Objector and its close neighbours, along with much of the quality of the Zodiac Face. But what remains still provides a stupendous number of high-quality routes, including some of the very best ticks in the county. Enjoy, and return often.

Approach notes

Most people abseil in from stakes at the top of cliffs. Beware climbers below. Alternative is a descent chimney - not much fun, but less risk to others.

Access Advice

Note - There has been a huge rock fall at Public Enemy and there may be more to come!!! Night firing normally occurs on Tues & Thurs but can alternate to Mon & Wed.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

 2017 new restriction - Choughs are nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to"  D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restrcted area but please do not linger below this section. Update 27-06-107 - this restriction has now been lifted for the 2017 season.

St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac inclusive.

 

 

 

 

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Pembroke

The famous Pembroke Rockfax has returned with this glorious full-colour version packed with classic routes and all the wonderful features that you have come to expect from Rockfax. It is now twice the size of the old 1995 book and has some of the biggest and clearest photo-topos that have ever been published in a UK guidebook.
More info
Stoney by the sea - the worst of the major crags in Pembroke?? Still some of the routes are good...
Fiend - 08/Apr/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Front Line
2 Nausea
-
E3 5c  
3 The Candlestick Maker E1 5b * 57
4 Lemming Way S * 220
5 Sacked E3 5c 2
6 Sandbagged VS 4c * 191
7 Exit Corner VD 166
8 Just before Dark HVS 5a 24
9 Rock-a-Block E2 5b 15
10 Rockfax-a-Block
-
HVS 5a 1
11 On Wenlock Edge E4 5c * 18
12 Rub-a-Dub-Dub E2 5c 13
13 Stacked Against VS 4b 210
14 Standing on a Fox
-
HVS 5a 11
15 Kinvig E1 5b * 60
16 Line Out E1 5a * 45
17 Front Line HVS 5a ** 796
18 The Baker E2 5c 22
  Army Dreamers Area
20 Army Dreamers HVS 5a *** 1428
21 Army Dreamers Direct E4 6a * 4
22 Shell Shock VS 4c 84
23 Sharp Shooter E4 5c 6
24 Sharp Shock
-
E2 5b 14
25 Bomb Bay VS 4c * 394
26 Bomb Scare E4 6a 1
27 Panzer II HVS 5a 168
28 Descent Chimney D 24
29 Cruise HVS 5a 6
  The Butcher
31 Up against the Wall HVS 5a 34
32 Chieftain VS 5a * 478
33 The Butcher E3 5c *** 722
34 Vice is Nice E2 5b * 368
35 But Incest is Best E1 5b * 313
36 Gandhi VS 4c 134
37 Calmness is a State of Mind
-
E2 5c 3
38 Centurion S 4a * 325
39 The Loosener HVS 5a * 195
40 Clean Hand Blues Band E2 5b ** 649
41 Munchies HVS 5a 74
42 Let Him Babble On E4 6a * 25
43 Babbalonia E4 6a  
  Test Case Area
45 Desire E1 5b 18
46 Piggy's Crack E1 5b * 60
47 John Wayne E5 6a ** 95
48 Charisma E3 6a * 56
49 Head Case E4 5c 2
50 Test Case E3 5c *** 332
51 Space Case
-
E3 5c  
52 Semaphore Signals E4 6a * 7
53 Space Cadet E3 5c *** 385
54 The Call Up E4 6b * 21
55 In Orbit E5 6b *  
56 Kraken E1 5b ** 151
57 The Wake
-
E4 6a 1
  Arrow Area
59 Flanker VS 4c * 232
60 Quiver E3 5c * 10
61 Ricochet E2 5c ** 318
62 Broken Arrow E4 6a * 1
63 Poisoned Arrow E4 6a * 140
64 Cupids Bow HVS 5a ** 274
65 Stupid Cupid E5 6a 2
66 The Arrow E1 5b *** 1288
67 The Rising Tide E4 6a ** 96
68 Flight Path E3 5c * 38
  Tactition Area
70 Raw Recruits E3 5c * 44
71 Get Some In E5 6a *** 197
72 You Got Me Into This! E5 6b ** 3
73 Hangover '77 E1 5b ** 274
74 Still Hungover 2000
-
E2 5b ** 80
75 War Crime E2 5b ** 218
76 Get Out of That! E4 5c 12
77 No Man's Land E4 5c ** 55
78 War Games E1 5b ** 333
79 Blucher E5 6a * 61
80 Tactician HVS 5a ** 561
  Deranged
82 Depraved E2 5c ** 120
83 Deranged E2 5b *** 542
84 Astrology
-
E3 6a  
85 A Shot in the Dark E5 6b * 1
86 Draught Dodger E5 6b ** 14
87 Shot by Both Sides E5 6b ** 6
88 D-Day E2 5c * 27
89 My Witness
-
E5 6a *  
90 Conscientious Objector E3 5c 45
91 Mission Impossible E6 6b  
92 Fire Power E3 5c 8
93 Lookout ArĂȘte HVS 5a * 9
  Range Rider
95 New Lookout Arete E3 5c * 3
96 Range Rider E3 5c * 54
97 Photocall E2 5b 28
98 The Alamo E4 6b *  
99 Zero Hour HVS 5b * 63
100 T Time
-
E1 5b 1
101 Aural Sculpture
-
E2 5b 5
102 Pleural Rapture
-
E2 5b  
103 Nightmare HVS 5a 85
104 The Throwback
-
E4 5c  
105 Blockbuster
-
E2 5b 2
106 Practice Makes Perfect
-
E3 5c  
107 High Explosive
-
E1 5b 1
108 Banana Drama E5 6b * 1
109 Tangerine Dream E4 6a *** 217
110 Sentinel Corner
-
HVS 5a 16
111 Meniscus
-
HVS 5a 2
112 Brighton Beach
-
HVS 4c 3
113 Gulliver's Wall
-
E4 5c 1
114 Murray's Wall
-
E3 5c 11
115 Its Just an Orange
-
E3 5c  
116 Sir Penfro
-
E2 5c *  
117 Partners in Brine * E3 6a 1
  Wicked Gravity Area
119 Goad HVS 5a 1
120 Wicked Gravity E5 6b *** 11
121 Equilibrium E5 6a ** 4
122 Equipoise E5 6a ** 2
123 Gorilla Action E6 6b ***  
124 Janus E6 6a ***  
125 Skyraider E3 5c * 4
  Public Enemy Area
127 Lost Leaders E3 5c ** 22
128 Teacher's Pet E4 6a *  
129 Face Value E2 5c ** 30
130 The Stranger E3 6a ** 3
131 Please Sir E5 6a **  
132 Public Enemy E5 6b *** 11
133 Crime of the Century E6 6c ***  
134 Crime and Punishment E5 6b ** 1
135 War and Peace/Raskolnikov
-
E7 6c ***  
136 The Brothers Karamazov E8 6c 1
137 Sole Train
-
E7 6c 1
138 Crimes of Passion
-
E6 6b *** 1
139 Stray Bullet
-
E5 6a * 1
140 Passion
-
E4 6a ** 7
141 Passion Killer
-
E6 6b **  
142 Safety in Numbers
-
E4 6a **  
143 Roving Eye
-
E3 5c * 4
144 Wandering Star
-
E3 5c * 1
145 Solitary Confinement
-
E3 6a * 2
146 Breakout
-
E3 6a  
147 Aquarius
-
E1 5b  
148 Aqua Libra
-
E1 5a  
149 Strangel
-
E3 5c  
150 Room Full of Ghosts
-
E1 5b  
151 Underneath the Floorboards
-
E1 5b  
152 Holy Ghost
-
E5 6b  
153 Omnipotence
-
E7 6c  
154 The Son of God
-
E5 6c  
155 Taurus
-
E3 5c  
156 New Beginnings
-
VS 4b  
157 Zodiac E1 5b *** 21
158 Chieftain Variation * E1 5b * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer loundsy