Climbs 150
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 12m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Andy Reeve © chris fox

Crag features

This army-free region needs little introduction for most seasoned visitors; just about every Pembroke devotee has spent time and energy devouring the crag's colossal spread of highly-charged classics. These mega-lines include Tactician (HVS), The Arrow (E1), Deranged (E2), Space Cadet (E3), Tangerine Dream (E4) and Get Some In (E5). Have no fear; your ticklist will prove to be almost unquenchable. The one minor glitch in the proceedings is the mammoth rockfalls that have taken place during the last decade - gone is Conscientious Objector and its close neighbours, along with much of the quality of the Zodiac Face. But what remains still provides a stupendous number of high-quality routes, including some of the very best ticks in the county. Enjoy, and return often.

Approach notes

Most people abseil in from stakes at the top of cliffs. Beware climbers below. Alternative is a descent chimney - not much fun, but less risk to others.

Access Advice

The seasonal restriction due to nesting Choughs between the routes "Draught Dodger" and "D-Day" has been lifted early on June 10th 2019 for the 2019 season.

Feb. 2018 - more minor rock falls - beware of unstable rock in the following sections:

Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014

John Wayne/Charisma - dodgy blocks in first break at about 6m

Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off

D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to"  D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restrcted area but please do not linger below this section.  June 10th 2019 This restriction has been lifted early for 2019 only.  

St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac inclusive.

 

 

 

 

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Pembroke

This new app version of the Pembroke Rockfax has been significantly updated with 350 extra routes, new geo-located maps and updates to the existing information. The print guide from 2009 had 650 routes and this new app package has nearly 1000! The update includes many easier routes plus extra lines at the main crags covered in the book. It also has extensive deep water soloing coverage with the majority of the crags from Mike Robertson's 2007 Deep Water book added to the mix.
More info

Pembroke

This book from 2009 covers all the classic routes on the most popular crags of Pembroke. It covers the beautiful slab climbing around St. David's and all the best crags of Range East and the Lydstep areas, as far as Mother Carey's Kitchen. The range and variety of routes is enough to keep any climber happy; from those leading moderate grades keen to have a look for the first time, all the way to those who have developed lifelong obsessions for the place!
More info
Stoney by the sea - the worst of the major crags in Pembroke?? Still some of the routes are good...
Fiend - 08/Apr/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Front Line
2 Nausea
-
E3 5c  
3 The Candlestick Maker E1 5b * 61
4 Lemming Way S * 261
5 Sacked E3 5c 2
6 Sandbagged VS 4c * 222
7 Exit Corner VD 190
8 Just before Dark HVS 5a 34
9 Rock-a-Block E3 5c 18
10 Rockfax-a-Block HVS 5a 2
11 On Wenlock Edge E3 5c * 21
12 Rub-a-Dub-Dub E2 5c 16
13 Stacked Against VS 4b 246
14 Standing on a Fox HVS 5a 12
15 Kinvig E1 5b * 72
16 Line Out E1 5a * 62
17 Front Line HVS 5a ** 964
18 The Baker E2 5c * 26
  Army Dreamers Area
20 Army Dreamers HVS 5a *** 1726
21 Army Dreamers Direct E4 6a 6
22 Shell Shock VS 4c 91
23 Sharp Shooter E4 5c * 7
24 Sharp Shock E2 5b 15
25 Bomb Bay VS 4c * 473
26 Bomb Scare E5 6a 4
27 Panzer II HVS 5a 192
28 Descent Chimney D 29
29 Cruise HVS 5a 7
  The Butcher
31 Up against the Wall HVS 5a * 36
32 Chieftain VS 5a * 588
33 Chieftain Variation E1 5b * 4
34 The Butcher E3 5c *** 869
35 Vice is Nice E2 5b * 455
36 But Incest is Best E1 5b * 391
37 Gandhi HVS 4c 154
38 Calmness is a State of Mind
-
E2 5c 3
39 Centurion S 4b * 379
40 The Loosener HVS 5a * 237
41 Clean Hand Blues Band E2 5b ** 794
42 Munchies HVS 5a 83
43 Let Him Babble On E4 6a * 30
44 Babbalonia E4 6a 2
  Test Case Area
46 Desire E1 5b 23
47 Piggy's Crack E1 5b * 70
48 John Wayne E5 6a *** 116
49 Charisma E3 6a * 66
50 Head Case E4 5c * 3
51 Test Case E3 5c *** 415
52 Space Case E4 6a * 1
53 Semaphore Signals E4 6a * 11
54 Space Cadet E3 5c *** 445
Climb name Grade
55 The Call Up E4 6b ** 25
56 In Orbit E5 6b * 2
57 Kraken E1 5b ** 183
58 The Wake E4 6a 1
  Arrow Area
60 Flanker HVS 5a * 273
61 Quiver E3 5c * 28
62 Ricochet E2 5c ** 365
63 Broken Arrow E4 6a * 5
64 Poisoned Arrow E4 6a ** 164
65 Poisoned Arrow Direct Finish E4 6b * 1
66 Cupids Bow HVS 5a ** 322
67 Stupid Cupid E5 6a 3
68 The Arrow E1 5b *** 1540
69 The Rising Tide E4 6a ** 109
70 Flight Path E3 5c * 50
71 Forward Thinking * HVS 5a  
72 Forward Thinking Face Finish * E1 5b  
  Tactition Area
74 Raw Recruits E3 5c * 54
75 Get Some In E5 6a *** 201
76 You Got Me Into This! E5 6b ** 4
77 Hangover '77 E1 5b ** 353
78 Still Hungover 2000 E2 5c * 103
79 War Crime E2 5b ** 278
80 Get Out of That! E4 5c 13
81 No Man's Land E4 5c ** 67
82 War Games E1 5b ** 415
83 Blucher E5 6a * 68
84 Tactician HVS 5a ** 725
  Deranged
86 Depraved E2 5c ** 144
87 Deranged E2 5b *** 694
88 Astrology
-
E3 6a  
89 A Shot in the Dark E5 6b * 1
90 Draught Dodger E5 6b ** 13
91 Shot by Both Sides E5 6b ** 8
92 D-Day E2 5c * 31
93 My Witness
-
E5 6a *  
94 Conscientious Objector E3 5c 51
95 Mission Impossible E6 6b  
96 Fire Power E3 5c 12
97 Lookout ArĂȘte HVS 5a * 10
  Range Rider
99 New Lookout Arete E3 5c * 3
100 Range Rider E3 5c * 87
101 Photocall E2 5b 36
102 The Alamo E4 6b * 2
103 Zero Hour HVS 5b * 79
104 T Time
-
E1 5b 3
105 Aural Sculpture
-
E2 5b 6
106 Pleural Rapture
-
E2 5b  
107 Nightmare HVS 5a 112
108 The Throwback
-
E4 5c 1
Climb name Grade
109 Blockbuster
-
E2 5b 2
110 Practice Makes Perfect
-
E3 5c 1
111 High Explosive
-
E1 5b 1
112 Banana Drama E5 6b * 2
113 Tangerine Dream E4 6a *** 239
114 Sentinel Corner HVS 5a * 29
115 Meniscus
-
HVS 5a 3
116 Brighton Beach
-
HVS 4c 2
117 Gulliver's Wall
-
E4 5c 1
118 Murray's Wall
-
E3 5c 11
119 Its Just an Orange
-
E3 5c  
120 Sir Penfro
-
E2 5c *  
  Wicked Gravity Area
122 Goad HVS 5a 1
123 Wicked Gravity E5 6b *** 10
124 Equilibrium E5 6a ** 4
125 Equipoise E5 6a ** 2
126 Gorilla Action E6 6b ***  
127 Janus E6 6a ***  
128 Skyraider E3 5c * 5
  Public Enemy Area
130 Lost Leaders E3 5c ** 26
131 Teacher's Pet E4 6a *  
132 Face Value E2 5c ** 36
133 The Stranger E3 6a ** 3
134 Please Sir E5 6a **  
135 Public Enemy E5 6b *** 11
136 Crime of the Century E6 6c ***  
137 Crime and Punishment E5 6b ** 1
138 War and Peace/Raskolnikov
-
E7 6c ***  
139 The Brothers Karamazov E8 6c 1
140 Sole Train
-
E7 6c 1
141 Crimes of Passion
-
E6 6b *** 1
142 Stray Bullet
-
E5 6a * 1
143 Passion
-
E4 6a ** 10
144 Passion Killer
-
E6 6b **  
145 Safety in Numbers
-
E4 6a **  
146 Roving Eye
-
E3 5c * 4
147 Wandering Star
-
E3 5c * 1
148 Solitary Confinement
-
E3 6a * 2
149 Breakout
-
E3 6a  
150 Aquarius
-
E1 5b  
151 Aqua Libra
-
E1 5a  
152 Strangel
-
E3 5c  
153 Room Full of Ghosts
-
E1 5b  
154 Underneath the Floorboards
-
E1 5b  
155 Holy Ghost
-
E5 6b  
156 Omnipotence
-
E7 6c  
157 The Son of God
-
E5 6c  
158 Taurus
-
E3 5c  
159 New Beginnings
-
VS 4b  
160 Zodiac E1 5b *** 15
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer loundsy