Climbs 147
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces SW

Andy Reeve © chris fox

Crag features

This army-free region needs little introduction for most seasoned visitors; just about every Pembroke devotee has spent time and energy devouring the crag's colossal spread of highly-charged classics. These mega-lines include Tactician (HVS), The Arrow (E1), Deranged (E2), Space Cadet (E3), Tangerine Dream (E4) and Get Some In (E5). Have no fear; your ticklist will prove to be almost unquenchable. The one minor glitch in the proceedings is the mammoth rockfalls that have taken place during the last decade - gone is Conscientious Objector and its close neighbours, along with much of the quality of the Zodiac Face. But what remains still provides a stupendous number of high-quality routes, including some of the very best ticks in the county. Enjoy, and return often.

Approach notes

Most people abseil in from stakes at the top of cliffs. Beware climbers below. Alternative is a descent chimney - not much fun, but less risk to others.

Restricted Access

Note - There has been a huge rock fall at Public Enemy and there may be more to come!!! Night firing normally occurs on Tues & Thurs but can alternate to Mon & Wed.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

 2017 new restriction - Choughs are nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to"  D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restrcted area but please do not linger below this section. Update 27-06-107 - this restriction has now been lifted for the 2017 season.

St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac inclusive.

 

 

 

 

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Pembroke

The famous Pembroke Rockfax has returned with this glorious full-colour version packed with classic routes and all the wonderful features that you have come to expect from Rockfax. It is now twice the size of the old 1995 book and has some of the biggest and clearest photo-topos that have ever been published in a UK guidebook.
More info
Stoney by the sea - the worst of the major crags in Pembroke?? Still some of the routes are good...
Fiend - 08/Apr/06
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Front Line
2 Nausea
-
E3 5c  
3 The Candlestick Maker E1 5b * 50
4 Lemming Way S * 214
5 Sacked E3 5c 2
6 Sandbagged VS 4c * 179
7 Exit Corner VD 162
8 Just before Dark HVS 5a 24
9 Rock-a-Block E2 5b 12
10 Rockfax-a-Block
-
HVS 5a  
11 On Wenlock Edge E4 5c * 17
12 Rub-a-Dub-Dub E2 5c 13
13 Stacked Against VS 4b 203
14 Standing on a Fox
-
HVS 5a 11
15 Kinvig E1 5b * 57
16 Line Out E1 5a * 43
17 Front Line HVS 5a ** 747
18 The Baker E2 5c 22
  Army Dreamers Area
20 Army Dreamers HVS 5a *** 1350
21 Army Dreamers Direct Start E3 5c * 4
22 Shell Shock VS 4c 78
23 Sharp Shooter E4 5c 6
24 Sharp Shock
-
E2 5b 14
25 Bomb Bay VS 4c * 381
26 Bomb Scare E4 6a  
27 Panzer II HVS 5a 163
28 Descent Chimney D 24
29 Cruise HVS 5a 6
  The Butcher
31 Up against the Wall HVS 5a 33
32 Chieftain VS 5a * 453
33 The Butcher E3 5c *** 694
34 Vice is Nice E2 5b * 354
35 But Incest is Best E1 5b * 304
36 Gandhi VS 4c 123
37 Calmness is a State of Mind
-
E2 5c 3
38 Centurion S 4a * 313
39 The Loosener HVS 5a * 188
40 Clean Hand Blues Band E2 5b ** 607
41 Munchies HVS 5a 70
42 Let Him Babble On E4 6a * 22
43 Babbalonia E4 6a  
  Test Case Area
45 Desire E1 5b 18
46 Piggy's Crack E1 5b * 58
47 John Wayne E5 6a ** 87
48 Charisma E3 6a * 54
49 Head Case E4 5c 2
50 Test Case E3 5c *** 317
51 Space Case
-
E3 5c  
52 Semaphore Signals E4 6a * 7
53 Space Cadet E3 5c *** 363
54 The Call Up E4 6b * 21
55 In Orbit E5 6b *  
56 Kraken E1 5b ** 136
57 The Wake
-
E4 6 1
  Arrow Area
59 Flanker VS 4c * 219
60 Quiver E3 5c * 10
61 Ricochet E2 5c ** 297
62 Broken Arrow E4 6a * 1
63 Poisoned Arrow E4 6a * 129
64 Cupids Bow HVS 5a ** 250
65 Stupid Cupid E5 6a 2
66 The Arrow E1 5b *** 1243
67 The Rising Tide E4 6a ** 88
68 Flight Path E3 5c * 36
  Tactition Area
70 Raw Recruits E3 5c * 43
71 Get Some In E5 6a *** 183
72 You Got Me Into This! E5 6b ** 3
73 Hangover '77 E1 5b ** 253
74 Still Hungover 2000
-
E2 5b ** 72
75 War Crime E2 5b ** 205
76 Get Out of That! E4 5c 12
77 No Man's Land E4 5c ** 47
78 War Games E1 5b ** 321
79 Blucher E5 6a * 55
80 Tactician HVS 5a ** 527
  Deranged
82 Depraved E2 5c ** 110
83 Deranged E2 5b *** 509
84 Astrology
-
E3 6a  
85 A Shot in the Dark E5 6b * 1
86 Draught Dodger E5 6b ** 12
87 Shot by Both Sides E5 6b ** 6
88 D-Day E2 5c * 26
89 My Witness
-
E5 6a *  
90 Conscientious Objector E3 5c 44
91 Mission Impossible E6 6b  
92 Fire Power E3 5c 8
93 Lookout ArĂȘte HVS 5a * 9
  Range Rider
95 New Lookout Arete E3 5c * 3
96 Range Rider E3 5c * 49
97 Photocall E2 5b 28
98 The Alamo E4 6b *  
99 Zero Hour HVS 5b * 62
100 T Time
-
E1 5b 1
101 Aural Sculpture
-
E2 5b 5
102 Pleural Rapture
-
E2 5b  
103 Nightmare HVS 5a 80
104 The Throwback
-
E4 5c  
105 Blockbuster
-
E2 5b 2
106 Practice Makes Perfect
-
E3 5c  
107 High Explosive
-
E1 5b 1
108 Banana Drama E5 6b * 1
109 Tangerine Dream E4 6a *** 209
110 Sentinel Corner
-
HVS 5a 13
111 Meniscus
-
HVS 5a 2
112 Brighton Beach
-
HVS 4c 3
113 Gulliver's Wall
-
E4 5c  
114 Murray's Wall
-
E3 5c 11
115 Its Just an Orange
-
E3 5c  
116 Sir Penfro
-
E2 5c *  
  Wicked Gravity Area
118 Goad HVS 5a 1
119 Wicked Gravity E5 6b *** 8
120 Equilibrium E5 6a ** 3
121 Equipoise E5 6a ** 1
122 Gorilla Action E6 6b ***  
123 Janus E6 6a ***  
124 Skyraider E3 5c * 3
  Public Enemy Area
126 Lost Leaders E3 5c ** 22
127 Teacher's Pet E4 6a *  
128 Face Value E2 5c ** 29
129 The Stranger E3 6a ** 2
130 Please Sir E5 6a **  
131 Public Enemy E5 6b *** 10
132 Crime of the Century E6 6c ***  
133 Crime and Punishment E5 6b ** 1
134 War and Peace/Raskolnikov
-
E7 6c ***  
135 The Brothers Karamazov E8 6c 1
136 Sole Train
-
E7 6c 1
137 Crimes of Passion
-
E6 6b *** 1
138 Stray Bullet
-
E5 6a * 1
139 Passion
-
E4 6a ** 6
140 Passion Killer
-
E6 6b **  
141 Safety in Numbers
-
E4 6a **  
142 Roving Eye
-
E3 5c * 4
143 Wandering Star
-
E3 5c *  
144 Solitary Confinement
-
E3 6a * 2
145 Breakout
-
E3 6a  
146 Aquarius
-
E1 5b  
147 Aqua Libra
-
E1 5a  
148 Strangel
-
E3 5c  
149 Room Full of Ghosts
-
E1 5b  
150 Underneath the Floorboards
-
E1 5b  
151 Holy Ghost
-
E5 6b  
152 Omnipotence
-
E7 6c  
153 The Son of God
-
E5 6c  
154 Taurus
-
E3 5c  
155 New Beginnings
-
VS 4b  
156 Zodiac E1 5b *** 21
157 Chieftain Variation * E1 5b * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer loundsy