Climbs 224
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 114m a.s.l
Faces NW

Ollie Elms on Almost Me © chrisscutt

Crag features

JANUARY 2017 : IMPORTANT ACCESS INFORMATION : PLEASE READ

Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) - the landowner of Ban-y-Gor and the majority of Wintour’s Leap – have recently raised serious concerns about new routing activity and cleaning of the cliff face and base at Ban-y-Gor, particularly on the Main Cliff. Furthermore, the GWT wish to keep part of the cliff habitat free from disturbance to wildlife. A closure of the whole cliff beyond Ladder Gully - including all of the Main Cliff - for all climbing was initially requested by GWT, but we have negotiated continued access to arguably the most important part of Main Cliff - the Head Sector - and everything to the right of this, subject to the following code of conduct:

• All routes left of the Head Sector (beyond Heady Days) are temporarily banned for 2017 and this restriction will be reviewed early in 2018.
• No access to the upper tier of the Main Cliff (this was already the case)
• Stick to existing paths - don't create new ones as there is sensitive habitat off the side of existing paths
• Cutting trees on the crag or elsewhere on the site is not allowed
• Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
• No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the Trust's land
• No further new routing

Please ensure you follow this code to the letter if climbing at Ban-y-Gor. Continued future access depends on climbers demonstrating good behaviour, and the agreement will be reviewed in 2018 with potential for us to argue for increased access if the code of conduct has been followed. The new access arrangements are also set out in the BMC's Regional Access Database (RAD) and a sign will be placed at the boundary of the restricted area.

See UKC thread http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=656960 and RAD (follow the link below from the green box)

 

Impressive large crag, split in two tiers, and a long 15m escarpment. Good quality limestone, generally sound, and well protectable. Both trad and bolt protected desperates. Both single-, and multi-pitch routes up to 25 metres. Rarely (if ever) crowded.

Cleaning and re-equipping is in progress 2005/2006. In particular, many routes on the escarpment are now fully bolted.

Approach notes

Park at the grassy areas above Wintour's Leap. Walk down Lancaut Lane for 100m until just past a gate on the right, and just before the path into the nature reserve on the left.

Now follow a vague path on the right around the edge of the field (without crossing the fence into the field), dropping down a couple of metres where necessary until you come to a rock-lined pit (close to the opposite corner of the field from the car parking).

Descend a short, easy gully to the path which takes you past The Mushroom Walls and on to The Escarpment.

Very loose and dangerous rock on the route "Matt, HVS" Did not climb, but pulled off some very loose blocks from the first few mtrs, still one more biggish one to go.... look out!
Felix Ottey - 20/May/17
I have put a second hanger on the (formerly single) lower off of both Snaffel Attack and Breast Stroke in a D Cup. Both routes in good condition and contain great boulder problems with decent holds **
alan rosier - 09/Aug/15
Not a place to be wearing shorts if you want to get to the wye sector and tricky to find routes, that said i will be back as lots of quality routes Heady days needs new bolt hanger 2 bolt threads sticking out, i left a mallion in place so people can retreat
jjsk8a - 12/Jul/15
Very large, very loose block behind the tree to the right of (I think) Dabawallah. Gave us a scare, and we ran away quickly. Take care!
Rosi - 20/Jun/15
Bolt hangar missing on Heady Days (3rd from top). Unless you're feeling exceptionally confident, this makes the route unclimbable - you'd be looking at decking on the ledge if you fell from the prow.
whenry - 23/May/15
My first time yesterday at ban y gor. And what a place. Like nothing else I've done in the wye valley. Powerful roof climbing. Took my first fall to. Will be back soon for some more. Brilliant.
luke glaister - 08/Mar/15
don't know what had happened to the crawl buttress rope - removed by someone for reasons unknown. Anyway, we replaced it with a new one this evening. Used the rest to put a knotted rope down the fallen tree-trunk round the corner. This seems very benign at the moment but is horrid to climb up and down after rain!
hms - 24/Jun/14
Take your insect repellent! Mosquitos are out in force at the moment.
katherinesydney - 10/Sep/12
Lux, Accuracy, Costner's Last Stand, Boys Don't Cry, and No Way Out, are all now (21 Aug 11) de-vegetated and clean. The path at the base of the crag has been cleared as far as No Way out.
alan rosier - 21/Aug/11
The best sport crag in my opinion the area and some interesting trad too. Starting to get more popular since the most recent guide book.
tombeasley - 18/Jul/10
Cool if you like tackling powerful roofs.... I guess.
Jon_Warner - 01/Jun/10
Went down to the main wall the other day and the path is covered with nettles, getting really overgrown again. Might go down with some shears and strimmer haha.
chris.elson - 24/Jun/09
BMC(?) done it, the fallen trees are out of the way and access to the Main cliff is now unobstructed.
alan rosier - 29/Mar/09
Main Cliff There has been a rise in popularity of routes on the Main Cliff, keeping the majority in a good and climbable condition. Some bramble removal / ground clearance / levelling work has been undertaken at the foot of the main cliff to make the path a little less fraught. Gary Gibson has given his approval for intermediate lower offs to be placed on existing routes on the half height terrace. If undertaken, this will mean a good number of easier grade vertical routes here (generally Fr 5+ to Fr 6b) and that the path may stay in a good condition. Crawl Buttress A rope has been placed between existing bolts on Crawl Buttress to make the traverse across quicker and less ‘death defying’. There are a couple of fallen trees at the left hand end the buttress which makes accessing the Main Cliff difficult. The agenda of the last local area BMC meeting included the removal of these trees…?
alan rosier - 27/Mar/09
The main cliff is cleaning up nicely now. Gary Gibson has informally agreed that mid height lower offs can be installed along the main terrace in order to facilitate a series of easier pitches in the range of Fr 5+ to Fr 6b+. Hopefully if this is undertaken it will increase the traffic across this area and keep it in good condition. A hand rope has been placed across the traverse of crawl butress to aid crossing quickly and easily. There is a tree fallen at the left hand end of Crawl Buttress which makes the walk in a bit of a pain, clambering behind a large root bound boulder. The BMC have been asked to fund the specialist removal of this tree and loose rock and the recent local area meeting was to address this issue...?
alan rosier - 23/Mar/09
Its all steep and pumpy and dirty and dismal. But dont let me put you off :)
The Pylon King - 23/Aug/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Mushroom Walls
2 Shaggy Ink Cap
-
D 4
3 A Little Stiff'ner 6a+ * 296
4 Slow Macabre Dance
-
6b 127
5 We are the Champignons
-
HVS 5a 25
6 Phallus Impudicus
-
S 4b 66
7 Laccaria Lacata
-
E1 5c 16
8 Mushroom Boys
-
HVS 5a 34
9 Fly Agaric
-
E1 5b 21
10 Shrooms
-
VS 5a 3
11 Mycology
-
HS 4b 53
12 Days of Mushy Peas
-
E1 5c 8
13 The Gruesome Toothsome
-
5a * 275
14 The Smiling Assassin Mr Bo
-
4a 123
  The Right hand Escarpment
16 Ivy Sep' S 24
17 Nine lives arete HS 4b 1
18 Imitator E4 6b 2
19 Jah Wobble
-
E3 5c 2
20 Mammoth VS 4c 19
21 Dinosaur HVS 5a 6
22 Citadel HVS 5a 5
23 Peter
-
VS 4b 51
24 Matt
-
HVS 5a 3
25 Gonna Write a Classic HVS 5b * 26
26 Private Lives E3 6a/b * 1
27 Discharge 6b+ 38
28 Nine Lives Gone HVS 5a 8
29 Gordon Rides the Send Train E4 6a 2
30 Self Preservation
-
HVS 5a * 28
31 Totally awesomely cool 7a 2
32 The Unpure
-
7a+ 11
33 The Itch you Can Never Scratch 5c 20
34 The Chubby Brown Syndrome 5c * 49
35 Totally Manning HVS 4c 4
36 Mondays Never Rain
-
E2 5c 3
37 Squelch
-
HS 4c * 43
38 Trans-African Drum Battle
-
6c+ 14
39 Doyouthinkhesawus
-
6b+ * 77
40 The Disillusioned Bronto Machine
-
6c+ 19
41 Slug Control
-
6b+ 35
42 It's a Fluke 7a 2
43 Day Break 4a 25
44 Morning Winpenny 5a 348
45 Duhkha 6c * 123
46 Blabba Mouth 7a * 62
47 East of Sweden 6b+ ** 239
48 Nelson Mandela 7b ** 142
49 Nelson Mandela Right Wing Connections 7c * 4
50 Sperm Whales 6c+ 72
51 Spunk Trumpets
-
6c * 80
52 The Chimney Crusade HVS 4c 4
53 Roof of Gore E2 5c 3
54 Join the Union, Jack 6b 117
55 Ninety-Nine Rabid Feminists 6c+ * 31
56 Just Yvonne More 6c+ * 37
57 Stars and Stripes 6c ** 115
58 Bad Man From Bodie 7a+ * 39
59 Flat Baps 7b * 6
60 Lotus Wing 6b ** 259
61 Dry Day
-
6c * 30
62 That Historic Reach 4a 83
63 Laughability 6a 36
64 You're Having a Laugh? 6a 26
65 Amuse Bouche 4a 29
66 I've Got a Bad, Bad Bottom! 5c 31
67 Double the Fun 4a 47
  The Left Hand Escarpment
69 The Toe 6a+ 10
70 The Tao
-
E2 5c 4
71 One Step Ahead of the Blues
-
6c+ * 21
72 Breaking for Spares VS 4c 8
73 Darkside 5a *** 238
74 Summertime Blues E2 5c 6
75 The Chepstow Triangle 6b 18
76 Always The Rain 6c * 27
77 Indian Summer VS 4c 1
78 Hurry On Sundown VS 4b 2
79 Dabbawallah 3+ 47
80 Full Tidenham Breakfast 5a 29
81 A Midsummer Night's Garden 6a+ * 36
82 kawrona VS 5a 4
83 Tinaderm 6b 22
84 Trust Me HVS 5a 6
85 Ought'n Be HVS 5b 9
86 The Royal Thanks 5c 11
87 Autumnal Dark 6b 9
88 There's a Lot of It About VS 5a 14
89 Biscuits Bite Back 4a 24
90 The Good Friday Agreement 6c * 81
91 Avidya 6b+ * 23
92 Ugooloo 6a 198
93 Who Is This Man Dukakis
-
6b+ 50
94 Josie Swoonpence 6b 135
95 Les Miserables
-
HVS 5a 10
96 Gordonzola 6b+ 196
97 Alienation 6b+ 41
98 Block and Crackle HS 4b 6
99 Victimization 6b * 80
100 Polarization 6a+ 74
101 Avatamsaka 6b+ * 70
102 His Master's Voice 6c+ * 75
103 Habit of a Lifetime 6c * 38
104 Up a Gum Tree 7a * 22
105 Utilizing Eucalyptus 7a 7
106 SoFB Country
-
6c+ * 13
107 Violation of Trust
-
6b+ * 91
108 So Gross 6b 22
109 The Pink Punter 5a 42
110 Lip Service 6b 12
111 Crocker's Ash
-
7a+ 2
112 Gobbo Wuz Yer' 7a 7
113 Let's Hear It for Lorenzo 6b+ 8
114 Take The Wave 6a 15
115 Genetic Engineering HVS 5a * 18
116 Genetically Engineered Super Mutant VS 4b * 27
117 A Liberal Smear 6a+ 9
118 A Date with David Mellor
-
E1 5b 2
119 Raining Stones
-
HVS 5b 1
120 Get Them Out by Christmas 6b 18
121 Nation of Shopkeepers
-
6a+ 31
122 The Microwave Man 6a+ 9
123 The Parallax Vision E2 5c 1
  Crawl Buttress
125 Dear Prudence 6b 2
126 Latest Craze 7b+ ** 69
127 Good 'Jab' 7a+ * 6
128 Lounge Lizard Leisure Suit 6c+ * 28
129 Gordonzilla 7a+ 2
130 Just Too Hot 7b ** 39
131 Time was once on my side 7c 5
132 Too Hot to Touch 7b *** 56
133 B'stard 7a+ * 43
134 The Forest 7b 1
135 Really Big Sur 7c ** 56
136 Frisco Disco
-
7b * 15
137 Trishna
-
E1 5b 1
138 Craters of Mono 7a * 37
139 Breast Stroke In A D Cup 7a+ 21
140 Snaffel Attack 7b * 22
141 The gnarliest 7b+ 4
142 Keep It Short 5a 10
143 Short and Simple 4a 15
144 Too Short 5a 17
145 Short Changed
-
4c 11
  LADDER GULLY
147 Byg Brother E3 6a 2
148 The Fat Controller 5c * 38
149 Such a Big Cactus! 4a 26
150 The Fatter Controller 6a 11
151 Three Men, Two Girls and a Dog 3 4
152 Merthyr Bob E3 5c 3
153 The Gates E1 5b 2
154 Lordy, Lordy 6b 3
155 Precious E2 5c 2
156 Who do you Think I Am 6a+ * 12
157 Who do you Think You Are? 6c * 2
  The Main Cliff
159 Open Head Surgery
-
6c+ * 18
160 Gimme Back My Head
-
7b ** 38
161 Head Tennis
-
7c+ * 10
162 Stitch That 7b+ ** 47
163 The Drilling Fields 7c+ ** 34
164 Archaeopteryx 7b ** 4
165 Almost Me 7c *** 146
166 Hummin' Bird 7b+ ** 48
167 Chin Hooks
-
7a * 61
168 Heady Days
-
6b+ *** 271
169 Nod if You Understand E2 5b  
170 Maestro's Wall
-
E4 6b  
171 Yellow Taxi
-
E1 5b 2
172 Poison Poisson 6c 5
173 Fresh Fish
-
6c+ 10
174 In Apedex
-
7b *  
175 The Motley Crew
-
6b+ 23
176 Muddy Waters
-
6a ** 264
177 Slow Boat to Chepstow
-
6b+ * 15
178 Up The Garden Path
-
6b+ * 19
179 Cocotte
-
7a+ ** 19
180 On The Game
-
E5 6b  
181 Pet Cemetery 7a *** 200
182 Aerial Combat
-
7b+ ** 33
183 96 Tiers
-
7c+ * 24
184 A Gathering of Old Men 7a+ ** 26
185 You're My Comic Strip Hero
-
E3 5c  
186 Let's Celebrate
-
7a+ * 21
187 The Beauty of It All
-
7a ** 44
188 Gunsel
-
E3 6a ** 2
189 After Midnight
-
E3 5c ** 1
190 Tier-Gas
-
7a+ ** 11
191 It's a Sin
-
7a+ ** 40
192 Helter Skelter
-
E2 6a * 3
193 Baggy Trousers
-
7a * 25
194 The Correct Use of Soap
-
7a * 10
195 Lux
-
6b+ * 8
196 Accuracy
-
6b+ ** 31
197 Another Day
-
HVS 5a 1
198 Object VS 4c * 1
199 Costner's Last Stand
-
6c+ 5
200 Boys Don't Cry
-
6b+ * 15
201 No Way Out
-
6b * 11
202 To Bee or not To Bee
-
E1 5b 3
203 In My Hour of Need
-
6b 2
204 Home is Where the Heart Is
-
VS 4c  
205 Barbaracue
-
E5 6a  
206 Wye Don't You Just...... 6c *  
207 Wye're Less
-
6b+ ** 9
208 Wye Not
-
6b+ ** 7
209 Wye Me? 7a 2
210 Wye should I?
-
7a 2
211 Wye Bother
-
7b  
212 If So, Wye 6c ** 4
213 All Ten Mill
-
7a+  
214 Save Your Kisses For Me
-
7a+ **  
215 Kiss of Death
-
6b+ * 4
216 Goodbye Kiss
-
6c+ 3
217 Perfect Kiss
-
6b ** 8
  MAIN CLIFF CONTINUATION
219 Faithful Couple
-
E3 5c  
220 Slave To The Cave
-
E2 6a  
221 Which Poison?
-
E3 5c  
222 What Presence?
-
E4 6b  
223 No chance E3 6a 1
224 Some Chance
-
E4 6b  
225 Sausage Dog
-
E3 5c *  
226 Pocket Tarantula
-
E2 5c  
227 Goebbels, Moseley, God and Ingrams
-
E4 5c  
228 There You Go Again E4 6a *  
229 Snake Flake
-
E2 5c  
230 Free The Radicals
-
E3 5b  
231 Mouchette
-
E3 6a *  

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