Climbs 224
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 114m a.s.l
Faces NW

Ollie Elms on Almost Me © chrisscutt

Crag features


Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) - the landowner of Ban-y-Gor and the majority of Wintour’s Leap – have recently raised serious concerns about new routing activity and cleaning of the cliff face and base at Ban-y-Gor, particularly on the Main Cliff. Furthermore, the GWT wish to keep part of the cliff habitat free from disturbance to wildlife. A closure of the whole cliff beyond Ladder Gully - including all of the Main Cliff - for all climbing was initially requested by GWT, but we have negotiated continued access to arguably the most important part of Main Cliff - the Head Sector - and everything to the right of this, subject to the following code of conduct:

• All routes left of the Head Sector (beyond Heady Days) are temporarily banned for 2017 and this restriction will be reviewed early in 2018.
• No access to the upper tier of the Main Cliff (this was already the case)
• Stick to existing paths - don't create new ones as there is sensitive habitat off the side of existing paths
• Cutting trees on the crag or elsewhere on the site is not allowed
• Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
• No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the Trust's land
• No further new routing

Please ensure you follow this code to the letter if climbing at Ban-y-Gor. Continued future access depends on climbers demonstrating good behaviour, and the agreement will be reviewed in 2018 with potential for us to argue for increased access if the code of conduct has been followed. The new access arrangements are also set out in the BMC's Regional Access Database (RAD) and a sign will be placed at the boundary of the restricted area.

See UKC thread and RAD (follow the link below from the green box)


Impressive large crag, split in two tiers, and a long 15m escarpment. Good quality limestone, generally sound, and well protectable. Both trad and bolt protected desperates. Both single-, and multi-pitch routes up to 25 metres. Rarely (if ever) crowded.

Cleaning and re-equipping is in progress 2005/2006. In particular, many routes on the escarpment are now fully bolted.

Approach notes

Park at the grassy areas above Wintour's Leap. Walk down Lancaut Lane for 100m until just past a gate on the right, and just before the path into the nature reserve on the left.

Now follow a vague path on the right around the edge of the field (without crossing the fence into the field), dropping down a couple of metres where necessary until you come to a rock-lined pit (close to the opposite corner of the field from the car parking).

Descend a short, easy gully to the path which takes you past The Mushroom Walls and on to The Escarpment.

Restricted Access

The landowner, Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust, has advised that a considerable quantity of rubble has been bulldozed over the crag top, some of which may now be lying on ledges and in vegetation on the cliff face. Climbers should excercise caution when climbing at the crag as there is likely to be more loose material than would normally be expected on the routes. 15/02/2011

Development of Ban-Y-Gor has been voluntarily restricted to the lower teirs of the rock, as climbs on the Upper Tier would otherwise top out into the gardens of those who live above the cliff! A further consideration is that climbers should not trespass onto the crag-top path north of Developer's Gully.

I have put a second hanger on the (formerly single) lower off of both Snaffel Attack and Breast Stroke in a D Cup. Both routes in good condition and contain great boulder problems with decent holds **
alan rosier - 09/Aug/15
Not a place to be wearing shorts if you want to get to the wye sector and tricky to find routes, that said i will be back as lots of quality routes Heady days needs new bolt hanger 2 bolt threads sticking out, i left a mallion in place so people can retreat
jjsk8a - 12/Jul/15
Very large, very loose block behind the tree to the right of (I think) Dabawallah. Gave us a scare, and we ran away quickly. Take care!
Rosi - 20/Jun/15
Bolt hangar missing on Heady Days (3rd from top). Unless you're feeling exceptionally confident, this makes the route unclimbable - you'd be looking at decking on the ledge if you fell from the prow.
whenry - 23/May/15
My first time yesterday at ban y gor. And what a place. Like nothing else I've done in the wye valley. Powerful roof climbing. Took my first fall to. Will be back soon for some more. Brilliant.
luke glaister - 08/Mar/15
don't know what had happened to the crawl buttress rope - removed by someone for reasons unknown. Anyway, we replaced it with a new one this evening. Used the rest to put a knotted rope down the fallen tree-trunk round the corner. This seems very benign at the moment but is horrid to climb up and down after rain!
hms - 24/Jun/14
Take your insect repellent! Mosquitos are out in force at the moment.
katherinesydney - 10/Sep/12
Lux, Accuracy, Costner's Last Stand, Boys Don't Cry, and No Way Out, are all now (21 Aug 11) de-vegetated and clean. The path at the base of the crag has been cleared as far as No Way out.
alan rosier - 21/Aug/11
The best sport crag in my opinion the area and some interesting trad too. Starting to get more popular since the most recent guide book.
tombeasley - 18/Jul/10
Cool if you like tackling powerful roofs.... I guess.
Jon_Warner - 01/Jun/10
Went down to the main wall the other day and the path is covered with nettles, getting really overgrown again. Might go down with some shears and strimmer haha.
chris.elson - 24/Jun/09
BMC(?) done it, the fallen trees are out of the way and access to the Main cliff is now unobstructed.
alan rosier - 29/Mar/09
Main Cliff There has been a rise in popularity of routes on the Main Cliff, keeping the majority in a good and climbable condition. Some bramble removal / ground clearance / levelling work has been undertaken at the foot of the main cliff to make the path a little less fraught. Gary Gibson has given his approval for intermediate lower offs to be placed on existing routes on the half height terrace. If undertaken, this will mean a good number of easier grade vertical routes here (generally Fr 5+ to Fr 6b) and that the path may stay in a good condition. Crawl Buttress A rope has been placed between existing bolts on Crawl Buttress to make the traverse across quicker and less ‘death defying’. There are a couple of fallen trees at the left hand end the buttress which makes accessing the Main Cliff difficult. The agenda of the last local area BMC meeting included the removal of these trees…?
alan rosier - 27/Mar/09
The main cliff is cleaning up nicely now. Gary Gibson has informally agreed that mid height lower offs can be installed along the main terrace in order to facilitate a series of easier pitches in the range of Fr 5+ to Fr 6b+. Hopefully if this is undertaken it will increase the traffic across this area and keep it in good condition. A hand rope has been placed across the traverse of crawl butress to aid crossing quickly and easily. There is a tree fallen at the left hand end of Crawl Buttress which makes the walk in a bit of a pain, clambering behind a large root bound boulder. The BMC have been asked to fund the specialist removal of this tree and loose rock and the recent local area meeting was to address this issue...?
alan rosier - 23/Mar/09
Its all steep and pumpy and dirty and dismal. But dont let me put you off :)
The Pylon King - 23/Aug/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Mushroom Walls 
2Shaggy Ink Cap
D 3
3A Little Stiff'ner
6a+ *274
4Slow Macabre Dance
6b 122
5We are the Champignons
HVS 5a 25
6Phallus Impudicus
S 4b 64
7Laccaria Lacata
E1 5c 16
8Mushroom Boys
HVS 5a 34
9Fly Agaric
E1 5b 21
VS 5a 3
HS 4b 47
12Days of Mushy Peas
E1 5c 7
13The Gruesome Toothsome
5a *258
14The Smiling Assassin Mr Bo
4a 111
 The Right hand Escarpment 
16Ivy Sep'S 23
17Nine lives areteHS 4b 1
18ImitatorE4 6b 2
19Jah Wobble
E3 5c 2
20MammothVS 4c 19
21DinosaurHVS 5a 6
22CitadelHVS 5a 5
VS 4b 48
HVS 5a 1
25Gonna Write a ClassicHVS 5b *26
26Private LivesE3 6a/b *1
27Discharge6b+ 37
28Nine Lives GoneHVS 5a 8
29Gordon Rides the Send TrainE4 6a 2
30Self Preservation
HVS 5a *29
31Totally awesomely cool7a 2
32The Unpure
7a+ 11
33The Itch you Can Never Scratch5c 16
34The Chubby Brown Syndrome5c *40
35Totally ManningHVS 4c 4
36Mondays Never Rain
E2 5c 3
HS 4c *40
38Trans-African Drum Battle
6c+ 13
6b+ *69
40The Disillusioned Bronto Machine
6c+ 19
41Slug Control
6b+ 34
42It's a Fluke7a 1
43Day Break4a 22
44Morning Winpenny5a 322
45Duhkha6c *117
46Blabba Mouth7a *59
47East of Sweden6b+ **224
48Nelson Mandela7b **134
49Nelson Mandela Right Wing Connections7c *1
50Sperm Whales6c+ 65
51Spunk Trumpets
6c *76
52The Chimney CrusadeHVS 4c 4
53Roof of GoreE2 5c 3
54Join the Union, Jack6b 112
55Ninety-Nine Rabid Feminists6c+ *29
56Just Yvonne More6c+ *36
57Stars and Stripes6c **107
58Bad Man From Bodie7a+ *38
59Flat Baps7b *7
60Lotus Wing6b **241
61Dry Day
6c *30
62That Historic Reach4a 84
63Laughability6a 31
64You're Having a Laugh?6a 22
65Amuse Bouche4a 35
66I've Got a Bad, Bad Bottom!5c 27
67Double the Fun4a 41
 The Left Hand Escarpment 
69The Toe6a+ 9
70The Tao
E2 5c 4
71One Step Ahead of the Blues
6c+ *19
72Breaking for SparesVS 4c 8
73Darkside5a ***217
74Summertime BluesE2 5c 5
75The Chepstow Triangle6b 18
76Always The Rain6c *27
77Indian SummerVS 4c 1
78Hurry On SundownVS 4b 2
79Dabbawallah3+ 40
80Full Tidenham Breakfast5a 23
81A Midsummer Night's Garden6a+ *30
82kawronaVS 5a 4
83Tinaderm6b 17
84Trust MeHVS 5a 6
85Ought'n BeHVS 5b 9
86The Royal Thanks5c 12
87Autumnal Dark6b 8
88There's a Lot of It AboutVS 5a 15
89Biscuits Bite Back4a 20
90The Good Friday Agreement6c *77
91Avidya6b+ *23
92Ugooloo6a 191
93Who Is This Man Dukakis
6b+ 48
94Josie Swoonpence6b 131
95Les Miserables
HVS 5a 10
96Gordonzola6b+ 191
97Alienation6b+ 40
98Block and CrackleHS 4b 5
99Victimization6b *76
100Polarization6a+ 72
101Avatamsaka6b+ *66
102His Master's Voice6c+ *73
103Habit of a Lifetime6c *34
104Up a Gum Tree7a *22
105Utilizing Eucalyptus7a 6
106SoFB Country
6c+ *13
107Violation of Trust
6b+ *87
108So Gross6b 21
109The Pink Punter5a 44
110Lip Service6b 13
111Crocker's Ash
7a+ 2
112Gobbo Wuz Yer'7a 8
113Let's Hear It for Lorenzo6b+ 9
114Take The Wave6a 14
115Genetic EngineeringHVS 5a *17
116Genetically Engineered Super MutantVS 4b *27
117A Liberal Smear6a+ 9
118A Date with David Mellor
E1 5b 2
119Raining Stones
HVS 5b 1
120Get Them Out by Christmas6b 13
121Nation of Shopkeepers
6a+ 25
122The Microwave Man6a+ 10
123The Parallax VisionE2 5c 1
 Crawl Buttress 
125Dear Prudence6b 2
126Latest Craze7b+ **65
127Good 'Jab'7a+ *6
128Lounge Lizard Leisure Suit6c+ *28
129Gordonzilla7a+ 2
130Just Too Hot7b **36
131Time was once on my side7c 5
132Too Hot to Touch7b ***53
133B'stard7a+ *40
134The Forest7b 1
135Really Big Sur7c **52
136Frisco Disco
7b *15
E1 5b 1
138Craters of Mono7a *35
139Breast Stroke In A D Cup7a+ 21
140Snaffel Attack7b *20
141The gnarliest7b+ 4
142Keep It Short5a 11
143Short and Simple4a 17
144Too Short5a 16
145Short Changed
4c 12
147Byg BrotherE3 6a 2
148The Fat Controller5c *36
149Such a Big Cactus!4a 24
150The Fatter Controller6a 10
151Three Men, Two Girls and a Dog3 5
152Merthyr BobE3 5c 3
153The GatesE1 5b 2
154Lordy, Lordy6b 3
155PreciousE2 5c 2
156Who do you Think I Am6a+ *12
157Who do you Think You Are?6c *2
 The Main Cliff 
159Open Head Surgery
6c+ *12
160Gimme Back My Head
7b **34
161Head Tennis
7c+ *5
162Stitch That7b+ **49
163The Drilling Fields7c+ **33
164Archaeopteryx7b **3
165Almost Me7c ***134
166Hummin' Bird7b+ **48
167Chin Hooks
7a *61
168Heady Days
6b+ ***258
169 Nod if You UnderstandE2 5b  
170 Maestro's Wall
E4 6b  
171 Yellow Taxi
E1 5b 2
172 Poison Poisson6c 6
173 Fresh Fish
6c+ 10
174 In Apedex
7b * 
175 The Motley Crew
6b+ 23
176 Muddy Waters
6a **276
177 Slow Boat to Chepstow
6b+ *15
178 Up The Garden Path
6b+ *19
179 Cocotte
7a+ **22
180 On The Game
E5 6b  
181 Pet Cemetery7a ***199
182 Aerial Combat
7b+ **39
183 96 Tiers
7c+ *27
184 A Gathering of Old Men7a+ **29
185 You're My Comic Strip Hero
E3 5c  
186 Let's Celebrate
7a+ *21
187 The Beauty of It All
7a **47
188 Gunsel
E3 6a **2
189 After Midnight
E3 5c **1
190 Tier-Gas
7a+ **13
191 It's a Sin
7a+ **41
192 Helter Skelter
E2 6a *3
193 Baggy Trousers
7a *26
194 The Correct Use of Soap
7a *11
195 Lux
6b+ *9
196 Accuracy
6b+ **36
197 Another Day
HVS 5a 1
198 ObjectVS 4c *1
199 Costner's Last Stand
6c+ 5
200 Boys Don't Cry
6b+ *15
201 No Way Out
6b *11
202 To Bee or not To Bee
E1 5b 3
203 In My Hour of Need
6b 2
204 Home is Where the Heart Is
VS 4c  
205 Barbaracue
E5 6a  
206 Wye Don't You Just......6c * 
207 Wye're Less
6b+ **10
208 Wye Not
6b+ **7
209 Wye Me?7a 2
210 Wye should I?
7a 2
211 Wye Bother
212 If So, Wye6c **4
213 All Ten Mill
214 Save Your Kisses For Me
7a+ ** 
215 Kiss of Death
6b+ *4
216 Goodbye Kiss
6c+ 3
217 Perfect Kiss
6b **8
219 Faithful Couple
E3 5c  
220 Slave To The Cave
E2 6a  
221 Which Poison?
E3 5c  
222 What Presence?
E4 6b  
223 No chanceE3 6a 1
224 Some Chance
E4 6b  
225 Sausage Dog
E3 5c * 
226 Pocket Tarantula
E2 5c  
227 Goebbels, Moseley, God and Ingrams
E4 5c  
228 There You Go AgainE4 6a * 
229 Snake Flake
E2 5c  
230 Free The Radicals
E3 5b  
231 Mouchette
E3 6a * 

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