UKC

Climbs 230
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 114m a.s.l
Faces NW

Ollie Elms on Almost Me © chrisscutt

Crag features

JANUARY 2017 : IMPORTANT ACCESS INFORMATION : PLEASE READ

Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) - the landowner of Ban-y-Gor and the majority of Wintour’s Leap – have recently raised serious concerns about new routing activity and cleaning of the cliff face and base at Ban-y-Gor, particularly on the Main Cliff. Furthermore, the GWT wish to keep part of the cliff habitat free from disturbance to wildlife. A closure of the whole cliff beyond Ladder Gully - including all of the Main Cliff - for all climbing was initially requested by GWT, but we have negotiated continued access to arguably the most important part of Main Cliff - the Head Sector - and everything to the right of this, subject to the following code of conduct:

• All routes left of the Head Sector (beyond Heady Days) are temporarily banned for 2017 and this restriction will be reviewed early in 2018.
• No access to the upper tier of the Main Cliff (this was already the case)
• Stick to existing paths - don't create new ones as there is sensitive habitat off the side of existing paths
• Cutting trees on the crag or elsewhere on the site is not allowed
• Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
• No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the Trust's land
• No further new routing

Please ensure you follow this code to the letter if climbing at Ban-y-Gor. Continued future access depends on climbers demonstrating good behaviour, and the agreement will be reviewed in 2018 with potential for us to argue for increased access if the code of conduct has been followed. The new access arrangements are also set out in the BMC's Regional Access Database (RAD) and a sign will be placed at the boundary of the restricted area.

See UKC thread http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=656960 and RAD (follow the link below from the green box)

 

Impressive large crag, split in two tiers, and a long 15m escarpment. Good quality limestone, generally sound, and well protectable. Both trad and bolt protected desperates. Both single-, and multi-pitch routes up to 25 metres. Rarely (if ever) crowded.

Cleaning and re-equipping is in progress 2005/2006. In particular, many routes on the escarpment are now fully bolted.

Approach notes

Park at the grassy areas above Wintour's Leap. Walk down Lancaut Lane for 100m until just past a gate on the right, and just before the path into the nature reserve on the left.

Now follow a vague path on the right around the edge of the field (without crossing the fence into the field), dropping down a couple of metres where necessary until you come to a rock-lined pit (close to the opposite corner of the field from the car parking).

Descend a short, easy gully to the path which takes you past The Mushroom Walls and on to The Escarpment.

Very loose and dangerous rock on the route "Matt, HVS" Did not climb, but pulled off some very loose blocks from the first few mtrs, still one more biggish one to go.... look out!
Felix Ottey - 20/May/17
I have put a second hanger on the (formerly single) lower off of both Snaffel Attack and Breast Stroke in a D Cup. Both routes in good condition and contain great boulder problems with decent holds **
alan rosier - 09/Aug/15
Not a place to be wearing shorts if you want to get to the wye sector and tricky to find routes, that said i will be back as lots of quality routes Heady days needs new bolt hanger 2 bolt threads sticking out, i left a mallion in place so people can retreat
jjsk8a - 12/Jul/15
Very large, very loose block behind the tree to the right of (I think) Dabawallah. Gave us a scare, and we ran away quickly. Take care!
Rosi - 20/Jun/15
Bolt hangar missing on Heady Days (3rd from top). Unless you're feeling exceptionally confident, this makes the route unclimbable - you'd be looking at decking on the ledge if you fell from the prow.
whenry - 23/May/15
My first time yesterday at ban y gor. And what a place. Like nothing else I've done in the wye valley. Powerful roof climbing. Took my first fall to. Will be back soon for some more. Brilliant.
luke glaister - 08/Mar/15
don't know what had happened to the crawl buttress rope - removed by someone for reasons unknown. Anyway, we replaced it with a new one this evening. Used the rest to put a knotted rope down the fallen tree-trunk round the corner. This seems very benign at the moment but is horrid to climb up and down after rain!
hms - 24/Jun/14
Take your insect repellent! Mosquitos are out in force at the moment.
katherinesydney - 10/Sep/12
Lux, Accuracy, Costner's Last Stand, Boys Don't Cry, and No Way Out, are all now (21 Aug 11) de-vegetated and clean. The path at the base of the crag has been cleared as far as No Way out.
alan rosier - 21/Aug/11
The best sport crag in my opinion the area and some interesting trad too. Starting to get more popular since the most recent guide book.
tombeasley - 18/Jul/10
Cool if you like tackling powerful roofs.... I guess.
Jon_Warner - 01/Jun/10
Went down to the main wall the other day and the path is covered with nettles, getting really overgrown again. Might go down with some shears and strimmer haha.
chris.elson - 24/Jun/09
BMC(?) done it, the fallen trees are out of the way and access to the Main cliff is now unobstructed.
alan rosier - 29/Mar/09
Main Cliff There has been a rise in popularity of routes on the Main Cliff, keeping the majority in a good and climbable condition. Some bramble removal / ground clearance / levelling work has been undertaken at the foot of the main cliff to make the path a little less fraught. Gary Gibson has given his approval for intermediate lower offs to be placed on existing routes on the half height terrace. If undertaken, this will mean a good number of easier grade vertical routes here (generally Fr 5+ to Fr 6b) and that the path may stay in a good condition. Crawl Buttress A rope has been placed between existing bolts on Crawl Buttress to make the traverse across quicker and less ‘death defying’. There are a couple of fallen trees at the left hand end the buttress which makes accessing the Main Cliff difficult. The agenda of the last local area BMC meeting included the removal of these trees…?
alan rosier - 27/Mar/09
The main cliff is cleaning up nicely now. Gary Gibson has informally agreed that mid height lower offs can be installed along the main terrace in order to facilitate a series of easier pitches in the range of Fr 5+ to Fr 6b+. Hopefully if this is undertaken it will increase the traffic across this area and keep it in good condition. A hand rope has been placed across the traverse of crawl butress to aid crossing quickly and easily. There is a tree fallen at the left hand end of Crawl Buttress which makes the walk in a bit of a pain, clambering behind a large root bound boulder. The BMC have been asked to fund the specialist removal of this tree and loose rock and the recent local area meeting was to address this issue...?
alan rosier - 23/Mar/09
Its all steep and pumpy and dirty and dismal. But dont let me put you off :)
The Pylon King - 23/Aug/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Mushroom Walls
2 Shaggy Ink Cap
-
D 3
3 A Little Stiff'ner 6b * 310
4 Slow Macabre Dance 6a+ 133
5 We are the Champignons
-
HVS 5a 25
6 Phallus Impudicus
-
S 4b 64
7 Laccaria Lacata
-
E1 5c 16
8 Mushroom Boys
-
HVS 5a 34
9 Fly Agaric
-
E1 5b 21
10 Shrooms
-
VS 5a 3
11 Mycology
-
HS 4b 52
12 Days of Mushy Peas
-
E1 5c 8
13 The Gruesome Toothsome
-
5a * 288
14 Two Name Graham 5a 3
15 The Smiling Assassin Mr Bo
-
4a 126
  The Right hand Escarpment
17 Ivy Sep' S 24
18 Nine lives arete HS 4b 1
19 Imitator E4 6b 2
20 Jah Wobble
-
E3 5c 2
21 Mammoth VS 4c 19
22 Dinosaur HVS 5a 6
23 Citadel HVS 5a 5
24 Peter
-
VS 4b 50
25 Matt
-
HVS 5a 3
26 Gonna Write a Classic HVS 5b * 26
27 Private Lives E3 6a/b * 1
28 Discharge 6b+ 38
29 Nine Lives Gone HVS 5a 8
30 Gordon Rides the Send Train E4 6a 2
31 Self Preservation
-
HVS 5a * 29
32 Totally awesomely cool 7a 2
33 The Unpure
-
7a+ 11
34 The Itch you Can Never Scratch 5c 19
35 The Chubby Brown Syndrome 5c * 48
36 Totally Manning HVS 4c 4
37 Mondays Never Rain
-
E2 5c 3
38 Squelch
-
HS 4c * 40
39 Trans-African Drum Battle
-
6c+ 14
40 Doyouthinkhesawus
-
6b+ * 84
41 The Disillusioned Bronto Machine
-
6c+ 19
42 Slug Control
-
6b+ 37
43 It's a Fluke 7a 2
44 Day Break 5a 24
45 Morning Winpenny 5c 362
46 Duhkha 6c * 126
47 Blabba Mouth 7a * 63
48 East of Sweden 6b+ ** 232
49 Nelson Mandela 7b ** 134
50 Nelson Mandela Right Wing Connections 7c * 5
51 Sperm Whales 6c+ 72
52 Spunk Trumpets
-
6c * 80
53 The Chimney Crusade HVS 4c 4
54 Roof of Gore E2 5c 3
55 Join the Union, Jack 6b 121
56 Ninety-Nine Rabid Feminists 6c+ * 32
57 Just Yvonne More 6c+ * 39
58 Stars and Stripes 6c ** 124
59 Bad Man From Bodie 7a+ * 40
60 Flat Baps 7b * 6
61 Lotus Wing 6b ** 269
62 Dry Day
-
6c * 30
63 That Historic Reach 4a 95
64 Laughability 6a 35
65 You're Having a Laugh? 6a 28
66 Amuse Bouche 4a 31
67 I've Got a Bad, Bad Bottom! 5c 31
68 Double the Fun 4a 45
69 The Blessing
-
5c * 12
  The Left Hand Escarpment
71 The Toe 6a+ 10
72 The Tao
-
E2 5c 5
73 One Step Ahead of the Blues
-
6c+ * 21
74 Breaking for Spares VS 4c 8
75 Darkside 5a *** 251
76 Summertime Blues E2 5c 6
77 The Chepstow Triangle 6b 17
78 Always The Rain 6c * 30
79 Indian Summer VS 4c 1
Climb name Grade
80 Hurry On Sundown VS 4b 2
81 Dabbawallah 3c 56
82 Full Tidenham Breakfast 5a 30
83 A Midsummer Night's Garden 6a+ * 46
84 A Midsummer Night's Garden (2) 5c ** 6
85 kawrona VS 5a 4
86 Tinaderm 6b 39
87 Trust Me HVS 5a 6
88 Ought'n Be HVS 5b 9
89 The Royal Thanks 5c 13
90 Autumnal Dark 6b 9
91 There's a Lot of It About VS 5a 14
92 Biscuits Bite Back 4a 22
93 The Good Friday Agreement 6c * 82
94 Avidya 6b+ * 23
95 Ugooloo 6a 212
96 Who Is This Man Dukakis
-
6b+ 50
97 Josie Swoonpence 6b 155
98 Les Miserables
-
HVS 5a 10
99 Gordonzola 6b+ 196
100 Alienation 6b+ 41
101 Block and Crackle HS 4b 6
102 Victimization 6b * 79
103 Polarization 6a+ 73
104 Avatamsaka 6b+ * 68
105 His Master's Voice 6c+ * 73
106 Habit of a Lifetime 6c * 36
107 Up a Gum Tree 7a * 23
108 Utilizing Eucalyptus 7a 7
109 SoFB Country
-
6c+ * 13
110 Violation of Trust
-
6b+ * 89
111 So Gross 6b 39
112 The Pink Punter 5a 45
113 Lip Service 6b 12
114 Crocker's Ash
-
7a+ 2
115 Gobbo Wuz Yer' 7a 7
116 Let's Hear It for Lorenzo 6b+ 8
117 Take The Wave 6a 26
118 Genetic Engineering HVS 5a * 19
119 Genetically Engineered Super Mutant VS 4b * 27
120 A Liberal Smear 6a+ 10
121 A Date with David Mellor
-
E1 5b 2
122 Raining Stones
-
HVS 5b 1
123 Get Them Out by Christmas 6b 20
124 Nation of Shopkeepers 6a+ 47
125 The Microwave Man 6a+ 12
126 The Parallax Vision E2 5c 1
127 Kalamazoo 6c  
128 Pokemon GO 5a * 1
  Crawl Buttress
130 Dear Prudence 6b 2
131 Latest Craze 7b+ ** 60
132 Good 'Jab' 7a+ * 8
133 Lounge Lizard Leisure Suit 6c+ * 30
134 Gordonzilla 7a+ 2
135 Just Too Hot 7b ** 31
136 Time was once on my side 7c 6
137 Too Hot to Touch 7b *** 37
138 B'stard 7a+ * 43
139 The Forest 7b 1
140 Really Big Sur 7c ** 47
141 Frisco Disco
-
7b * 15
142 Trishna
-
E1 5b 1
143 Craters of Mono 7a * 37
144 Breast Stroke In A D Cup 7a+ 21
145 Snaffel Attack 7b * 22
146 The gnarliest 7b+ 4
147 Keep It Short 5a 10
148 Short and Simple 4a 15
149 Too Short 5a 17
150 Short Changed
-
4c 11
  LADDER GULLY
152 Byg Brother E3 6a 2
153 The Fat Controller 5c * 38
154 Such a Big Cactus! 4a 24
155 The Fatter Controller 6a 12
156 Three Men, Two Girls and a Dog 3a 4
157 Merthyr Bob E3 5c 3
158 The Gates E1 5b 2
Climb name Grade
159 Lordy, Lordy 6b 3
160 Precious E2 5c 2
161 Who do you Think I Am 6a+ * 13
162 Who do you Think You Are? 6c * 2
  The Main Cliff
164 Open Head Surgery
-
6c+ * 17
165 Gimme Back My Head
-
7b ** 33
166 Head Tennis
-
7c+ * 9
167 Match Point 8a *** 1
168 Stitch That 7b+ ** 40
169 The Drilling Fields 7c+ ** 28
170 Archaeopteryx 7b ** 5
171 Almost Me 7c *** 119
172 Hummin' Bird 7b+ ** 46
173 Chin Hooks
-
7a * 59
174 Heady Days
-
6b+ *** 244
175 Nod if You Understand E2 5b  
176 Maestro's Wall
-
E4 6b  
177 Yellow Taxi
-
E1 5b 2
178 Poison Poisson 6c 5
179 Fresh Fish
-
6c+ 10
180 In Apedex
-
7b *  
181 The Motley Crew
-
6b+ 23
182 Muddy Waters
-
6a ** 265
183 Slow Boat to Chepstow
-
6b+ * 15
184 Up The Garden Path
-
6b+ * 19
185 Cocotte
-
7a+ ** 19
186 On The Game
-
E5 6b  
187 Pet Cemetery 7a *** 168
188 Aerial Combat
-
7b+ ** 33
189 96 Tiers
-
7c+ * 24
190 A Gathering of Old Men 7a+ ** 26
191 You're My Comic Strip Hero
-
E3 5c  
192 Let's Celebrate
-
7a+ * 18
193 The Beauty of It All
-
7a ** 44
194 Gunsel
-
E3 6a ** 2
195 After Midnight
-
E3 5c ** 1
196 Tier-Gas
-
7a+ ** 11
197 It's a Sin
-
7a+ ** 37
198 Helter Skelter
-
E2 6a * 3
199 Baggy Trousers
-
7a * 22
200 The Correct Use of Soap
-
7a * 9
201 Lux
-
6b+ * 8
202 Accuracy
-
6b+ ** 31
203 Another Day
-
HVS 5a 1
204 Object VS 4c * 1
205 Costner's Last Stand
-
6c+ 5
206 Boys Don't Cry
-
6b+ * 15
207 No Way Out
-
6b * 11
208 To Bee or not To Bee
-
E1 5b 3
209 In My Hour of Need
-
6b 2
210 Home is Where the Heart Is
-
VS 4c  
211 Barbaracue
-
E5 6a  
212 Wye Don't You Just...... 6c *  
213 Wye're Less
-
6b+ ** 9
214 Wye Not
-
6b+ ** 7
215 Wye Me? 7a 2
216 Wye should I?
-
7a 2
217 Wye Bother
-
7b  
218 If So, Wye 6c ** 4
219 All Ten Mill
-
7a+  
220 Save Your Kisses For Me
-
7a+ **  
221 Kiss of Death
-
6b+ * 4
222 Goodbye Kiss
-
6c+ 3
223 Perfect Kiss
-
6b ** 8
  MAIN CLIFF CONTINUATION
225 Faithful Couple
-
E3 5c  
226 Slave To The Cave
-
E2 6a  
227 Which Poison?
-
E3 5c  
228 What Presence?
-
E4 6b  
229 No chance E3 6a 1
230 Some Chance
-
E4 6b  
231 Sausage Dog
-
E3 5c *  
232 Pocket Tarantula
-
E2 5c  
233 Goebbels, Moseley, God and Ingrams
-
E4 5c  
234 There You Go Again E4 6a *  
235 Snake Flake
-
E2 5c  
236 Free The Radicals
-
E3 5b  
237 Mouchette
-
E3 6a *  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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