Altitude 114m a.s.l
Ollie Elms on Almost Me © chrisscutt
JANUARY 2017 : IMPORTANT ACCESS INFORMATION : PLEASE READ
Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) - the landowner of Ban-y-Gor and the majority of Wintour’s Leap – have recently raised serious concerns about new routing activity and cleaning of the cliff face and base at Ban-y-Gor, particularly on the Main Cliff. Furthermore, the GWT wish to keep part of the cliff habitat free from disturbance to wildlife. A closure of the whole cliff beyond Ladder Gully - including all of the Main Cliff - for all climbing was initially requested by GWT, but we have negotiated continued access to arguably the most important part of Main Cliff - the Head Sector - and everything to the right of this, subject to the following code of conduct:
• All routes left of the Head Sector (beyond Heady Days) are temporarily banned for 2017 and this restriction will be reviewed early in 2018.
• No access to the upper tier of the Main Cliff (this was already the case)
• Stick to existing paths - don't create new ones as there is sensitive habitat off the side of existing paths
• Cutting trees on the crag or elsewhere on the site is not allowed
• Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
• No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the Trust's land
• No further new routing
Please ensure you follow this code to the letter if climbing at Ban-y-Gor. Continued future access depends on climbers demonstrating good behaviour, and the agreement will be reviewed in 2018 with potential for us to argue for increased access if the code of conduct has been followed. The new access arrangements are also set out in the BMC's Regional Access Database (RAD) and a sign will be placed at the boundary of the restricted area.
See UKC thread http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=656960 and RAD (follow the link below from the green box)
Impressive large crag, split in two tiers, and a long 15m escarpment. Good quality limestone, generally sound, and well protectable. Both trad and bolt protected desperates. Both single-, and multi-pitch routes up to 25 metres. Rarely (if ever) crowded.
Cleaning and re-equipping is in progress 2005/2006. In particular, many routes on the escarpment are now fully bolted.
Park at the grassy areas above Wintour's Leap. Walk down Lancaut Lane for 100m until just past a gate on the right, and just before the path into the nature reserve on the left.
Now follow a vague path on the right around the edge of the field (without crossing the fence into the field), dropping down a couple of metres where necessary until you come to a rock-lined pit (close to the opposite corner of the field from the car parking).
Descend a short, easy gully to the path which takes you past The Mushroom Walls and on to The Escarpment.
The landowner, Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust, has advised that a considerable quantity of rubble has been bulldozed over the crag top, some of which may now be lying on ledges and in vegetation on the cliff face. Climbers should excercise caution when climbing at the crag as there is likely to be more loose material than would normally be expected on the routes. 15/02/2011
Development of Ban-Y-Gor has been voluntarily restricted to the lower teirs of the rock, as climbs on the Upper Tier would otherwise top out into the gardens of those who live above the cliff! A further consideration is that climbers should not trespass onto the crag-top path north of Developer's Gully.