Climbs 234
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 114m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Ollie Elms on Almost Me © chrisscutt

Crag features

2018 : IMPORTANT ACCESS INFORMATION : PLEASE READ

All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area within the reserve. Peregrines nest on the crag and nesting restrictions apply (see restrictions info below) Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat  No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land No further new routing


Please ensure you follow this code to the letter if climbing at Ban-y-Gor. Continued future access depends on climbers demonstrating good behaviour, and the agreement will be reviewed in 2018 with potential for us to argue for increased access if the code of conduct has been followed. The new access arrangements are also set out in the BMC's Regional Access Database (RAD) and a sign will be placed at the boundary of the restricted area.

See UKC thread http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=656960 and RAD (follow the link below from the green box)

Impressive large crag, split in two tiers, and a long 15m escarpment. Good quality limestone, generally sound, and well protectable. Both trad and bolt protected desperates. Both single-, and multi-pitch routes up to 25 metres. Rarely (if ever) crowded.

Cleaning and re-equipping is in progress 2005/2006. In particular, many routes on the escarpment are now fully bolted.

Approach notes

Park at the grassy areas above Wintour's Leap. Walk down Lancaut Lane for 100m until just past a gate on the right, and just before the path into the nature reserve on the left.

Now follow a vague path on the right around the edge of the field (without crossing the fence into the field), dropping down a couple of metres where necessary until you come to a rock-lined pit (close to the opposite corner of the field from the car parking).

Descend a short, easy gully to the path which takes you past The Mushroom Walls and on to The Escarpment.

Restricted Access

A review of the previous access agreement with Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) has now taken place and the climbable area will be extended in 2018 once the peregrines which are now nesting on Main Wall have fledged their young. 

This extension is only possible due to climbers following the agreed access over the past 18 months or so and demonstrating that we are a responsible user group. Needless to say maintaining this extended access is contingent on future adherence to the below climber's code of conduct too: 

  • All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area within the reserve.
  • Peregrines nest on the crag and nesting restrictions apply (see restrictions info below)
  • Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat 
  • No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve
  • Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
  • No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land
  • No further new routing

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to all routes left of Heady Days, not including that route.

Very loose and dangerous rock on the route "Matt, HVS" Did not climb, but pulled off some very loose blocks from the first few mtrs, still one more biggish one to go.... look out!
Felix Ottey - 20/May/17
I have put a second hanger on the (formerly single) lower off of both Snaffel Attack and Breast Stroke in a D Cup. Both routes in good condition and contain great boulder problems with decent holds **
alan rosier - 09/Aug/15
Not a place to be wearing shorts if you want to get to the wye sector and tricky to find routes, that said i will be back as lots of quality routes Heady days needs new bolt hanger 2 bolt threads sticking out, i left a mallion in place so people can retreat
jjsk8a - 12/Jul/15
Very large, very loose block behind the tree to the right of (I think) Dabawallah. Gave us a scare, and we ran away quickly. Take care!
Rosi - 20/Jun/15
Bolt hangar missing on Heady Days (3rd from top). Unless you're feeling exceptionally confident, this makes the route unclimbable - you'd be looking at decking on the ledge if you fell from the prow.
whenry - 23/May/15
My first time yesterday at ban y gor. And what a place. Like nothing else I've done in the wye valley. Powerful roof climbing. Took my first fall to. Will be back soon for some more. Brilliant.
luke glaister - 08/Mar/15
don't know what had happened to the crawl buttress rope - removed by someone for reasons unknown. Anyway, we replaced it with a new one this evening. Used the rest to put a knotted rope down the fallen tree-trunk round the corner. This seems very benign at the moment but is horrid to climb up and down after rain!
hms - 24/Jun/14
Take your insect repellent! Mosquitos are out in force at the moment.
katherinesydney - 10/Sep/12
Lux, Accuracy, Costner's Last Stand, Boys Don't Cry, and No Way Out, are all now (21 Aug 11) de-vegetated and clean. The path at the base of the crag has been cleared as far as No Way out.
alan rosier - 21/Aug/11
The best sport crag in my opinion the area and some interesting trad too. Starting to get more popular since the most recent guide book.
tombeasley - 18/Jul/10
Cool if you like tackling powerful roofs.... I guess.
Jon_Warner - 01/Jun/10
Went down to the main wall the other day and the path is covered with nettles, getting really overgrown again. Might go down with some shears and strimmer haha.
chris.elson - 24/Jun/09
BMC(?) done it, the fallen trees are out of the way and access to the Main cliff is now unobstructed.
alan rosier - 29/Mar/09
Main Cliff There has been a rise in popularity of routes on the Main Cliff, keeping the majority in a good and climbable condition. Some bramble removal / ground clearance / levelling work has been undertaken at the foot of the main cliff to make the path a little less fraught. Gary Gibson has given his approval for intermediate lower offs to be placed on existing routes on the half height terrace. If undertaken, this will mean a good number of easier grade vertical routes here (generally Fr 5+ to Fr 6b) and that the path may stay in a good condition. Crawl Buttress A rope has been placed between existing bolts on Crawl Buttress to make the traverse across quicker and less ‘death defying’. There are a couple of fallen trees at the left hand end the buttress which makes accessing the Main Cliff difficult. The agenda of the last local area BMC meeting included the removal of these trees…?
alan rosier - 27/Mar/09
The main cliff is cleaning up nicely now. Gary Gibson has informally agreed that mid height lower offs can be installed along the main terrace in order to facilitate a series of easier pitches in the range of Fr 5+ to Fr 6b+. Hopefully if this is undertaken it will increase the traffic across this area and keep it in good condition. A hand rope has been placed across the traverse of crawl butress to aid crossing quickly and easily. There is a tree fallen at the left hand end of Crawl Buttress which makes the walk in a bit of a pain, clambering behind a large root bound boulder. The BMC have been asked to fund the specialist removal of this tree and loose rock and the recent local area meeting was to address this issue...?
alan rosier - 23/Mar/09
Its all steep and pumpy and dirty and dismal. But dont let me put you off :)
The Pylon King - 23/Aug/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Mushroom Walls
2 Shaggy Ink Cap
-
D 3
3 A Little Stiff'ner 6b * 366
4 Slow Macabre Dance 6a+ 171
5 We are the Champignons
-
HVS 5a 25
6 Phallus Impudicus
-
S 4b 69
7 Laccaria Lacata
-
E1 5c 16
8 Mushroom Boys
-
HVS 5a 34
9 Fly Agaric
-
E1 5b 21
10 Shrooms
-
VS 5a 3
11 Mycology
-
HS 4b 53
12 Days of Mushy Peas
-
E1 5c 8
13 The Gruesome Toothsome
-
5a * 382
14 Two Name Graham 5a 58
15 The Smiling Assassin Mr Bo
-
4a 204
  The Right hand Escarpment
17 Ivy Sep' S 28
18 Nine lives arete HS 4b 1
19 Imitator E4 6b 2
20 Jah Wobble
-
E3 5c 2
21 Mammoth VS 4c 19
22 Dinosaur HVS 5a 6
23 Citadel HVS 5a 5
24 Peter
-
VS 4b 52
25 Matt
-
HVS 5a 3
26 Gonna Write a Classic HVS 5b * 33
27 Private Lives E3 6a/b * 1
28 Discharge 6b+ 44
29 Nine Lives Gone HVS 5a 8
30 Gordon Rides the Send Train E4 6a 2
31 Self Preservation
-
HVS 5a * 31
32 Totally awesomely cool 7a 3
33 The Unpure
-
7a+ 13
34 The Itch you Can Never Scratch 5c 54
35 The Chubby Brown Syndrome 5c * 76
36 Totally Manning HVS 4c 4
37 Mondays Never Rain
-
E2 5c 3
38 Squelch
-
HS 4c * 42
39 Trans-African Drum Battle
-
6c+ 17
40 Doyouthinkhesawus
-
6b+ * 93
41 The Disillusioned Bronto Machine
-
6c+ 21
42 Slug Control
-
6b+ 46
43 It's a Fluke 7a 3
44 Day Break 5a 29
45 Morning Winpenny 5c 436
46 Duhkha 6c * 149
47 Blabba Mouth 7a * 75
48 East of Sweden 6b+ ** 255
49 Nelson Mandela 7b ** 160
50 Nelson Mandela Right Wing Connections 7c * 8
51 Sperm Whales 6c+ 81
52 Spunk Trumpets
-
6c * 90
53 The Chimney Crusade HVS 4c 4
54 Roof of Gore E2 5c 5
55 Join the Union, Jack 6b 149
56 Ninety-Nine Rabid Feminists 6c+ * 36
57 Just Yvonne More 6c+ * 50
58 Stars and Stripes 6c ** 125
59 Bad Man From Bodie 7a+ * 45
60 Flat Baps 7b * 7
61 Lotus Wing 6b ** 342
62 Dry Day
-
6c * 31
63 That Historic Reach 4a 124
64 Laughability 6a 52
65 You're Having a Laugh? 6a 68
66 Amuse Bouche 4a 56
67 I've Got a Bad, Bad Bottom! 5c 81
68 Double the Fun 4a 79
69 The Blessing 5c * 68
  The Left Hand Escarpment
71 The Toe 6a+ 15
72 The Tao
-
E2 5c 7
73 One Step Ahead of the Blues
-
6c+ * 25
74 Breaking for Spares VS 4c 10
75 Darkside 5a *** 373
76 Summertime Blues E2 5c 6
77 The Chepstow Triangle 6b 36
78 Always The Rain 6c * 41
79 Indian Summer VS 4c 1
80 Hurry On Sundown VS 4b 2
81 Dabbawallah 4a 125
Climb name Grade
82 Full Tidenham Breakfast 5a 82
83 A Midsummer Night's Garden 6a+ * 87
84 A Midsummer Night's Garden (2) 5c ** 77
85 kawrona VS 5a 4
86 Tinaderm 6b 80
87 Tinaderm (circular) 6a 54
88 Trust Me HVS 5a 8
89 Ought'n Be HVS 5b 9
90 The Royal Thanks 5c 51
91 The Royal Thanks (2) 6a+ 29
92 Autumnal Dark 6b 23
93 There's a Lot of It About VS 5a 23
94 Biscuits Bite Back
-
5c 52
95 The Good Friday Agreement 6c * 106
96 Avidya 6b+ * 36
97 Ugooloo 6a 311
98 Who Is This Man Dukakis
-
6b+ 60
99 In The Dead Of The Night 6a 40
100 Josie Swoonpence 6b 213
101 Les Miserables
-
HVS 5a 11
102 Gordonzola 6b+ 250
103 Alienation 6b+ 48
104 Block and Crackle HS 4b 7
105 Victimization 6b * 88
106 Polarization 6a+ 84
107 Avatamsaka 6b+ * 84
108 His Master's Voice 6c+ * 86
109 Habit of a Lifetime 6c * 40
110 Up a Gum Tree 7a * 33
111 Utilizing Eucalyptus 7a 10
112 SoFB Country
-
6c+ * 16
113 Violation of Trust
-
6b+ * 105
114 So Gross 6b 66
115 The Pink Punter 5a 75
116 Lip Service 6b 21
117 Crocker's Ash
-
7a+ 2
118 Gobbo Wuz Yer' 7a 7
119 Let's Hear It for Lorenzo 6b+ 13
120 Take The Wave 6a 54
121 Genetic Engineering HVS 5a * 21
122 Genetically Engineered Super Mutant VS 4b * 34
123 A Liberal Smear 6a+ 19
124 A Date with David Mellor
-
E1 5b 2
125 Raining Stones
-
HVS 5b 1
126 Get Them Out by Christmas 6b 35
127 Nation of Shopkeepers 6a+ 92
128 The Microwave Man 6a+ 26
129 The Parallax Vision E2 5c 1
130 Kalamazoo 6c 10
131 Pokemon GO 5a * 42
  Crawl Buttress
133 Dear Prudence 6b 2
134 Latest Craze 7b+ ** 65
135 Good 'Jab' 7a+ * 8
136 Lounge Lizard Leisure Suit 6c+ * 33
137 Gordonzilla 7a+ 2
138 Just Too Hot 7b ** 35
139 Time was once on my side 8a 8
140 Too Hot to Touch 7b *** 51
141 B'stard 7a+ * 53
142 The Forest 7b 1
143 Really Big Sur 7c ** 54
144 Frisco Disco
-
7b * 16
145 Trishna
-
E1 5b 1
146 Craters of Mono 7a * 39
147 Breast Stroke In A D Cup 7a+ 22
148 Snaffel Attack 7b * 28
149 The gnarliest 7b+ 4
150 Keep It Short 5a 25
151 Short and Simple 4a 29
152 Too Short 5a 34
153 Short Changed
-
4c 25
  LADDER GULLY
155 Byg Brother E3 6a 2
156 The Fat Controller 5c * 54
157 Such a Big Cactus! 4a 36
158 The Fatter Controller 6a 22
159 Three Men, Two Girls and a Dog 3a 12
160 Merthyr Bob E3 5c 3
161 The Gates E1 5b 2
162 Lordy, Lordy 6b 11
Climb name Grade
163 Precious E2 5c 2
164 Who do you Think I Am 6a+ * 21
165 Who do you Think You Are? 6c * 4
166 Will The Real Gary Gibson Please Stand Up 6a 2
  The Main Cliff
168 Open Head Surgery
-
6c+ * 20
169 Gimme Back My Head
-
7b ** 39
170 Head Tennis
-
7c+ * 11
171 Match Point 8a *** 1
172 Stitch That 7b+ ** 48
173 The Drilling Fields 7c+ ** 33
174 Archaeopteryx 7b ** 5
175 Almost Me 7c *** 131
176 Hummin' Bird 7b+ ** 50
177 Chin Hooks
-
7a * 65
178 Heady Days 6b+ *** 290
179 Nod if You Understand E2 5b  
180 Maestro's Wall
-
E4 6b  
181 Yellow Taxi
-
E1 5b 2
182 Poison Poisson 6c 5
183 Fresh Fish
-
6c+ 10
184 In Apedex
-
7b *  
185 The Motley Crew
-
6b+ 23
186 Muddy Waters
-
6a ** 285
187 Slow Boat to Chepstow
-
6b+ * 15
188 Up The Garden Path
-
6b+ * 19
189 Cocotte
-
7a+ ** 19
190 On The Game
-
E5 6b  
191 Pet Cemetery 7a *** 180
192 Aerial Combat
-
7b+ ** 33
193 96 Tiers
-
7c+ * 25
194 A Gathering of Old Men 7a+ ** 26
195 You're My Comic Strip Hero
-
E3 5c  
196 Let's Celebrate
-
7a+ * 18
197 The Beauty of It All
-
7a ** 45
198 Gunsel
-
E3 6a ** 2
199 After Midnight
-
E3 5c ** 1
200 Tier-Gas
-
7a+ ** 11
201 It's a Sin
-
7a+ ** 40
202 Helter Skelter
-
E2 6a * 3
203 Baggy Trousers
-
7a * 22
204 The Correct Use of Soap
-
7a * 9
205 Lux
-
6b+ * 8
206 Accuracy
-
6b+ ** 32
207 Another Day
-
HVS 5a 1
208 Object VS 4c * 1
209 Costner's Last Stand
-
6c+ 5
210 Boys Don't Cry
-
6b+ * 16
211 No Way Out
-
6b * 12
212 To Bee or not To Bee
-
E1 5b 3
213 In My Hour of Need
-
6b 3
214 Home is Where the Heart Is
-
VS 4c  
215 Barbaracue
-
E5 6a  
216 Wye Don't You Just...... 6c *  
217 Wye're Less
-
6b+ ** 8
218 Wye Not
-
6b+ ** 6
219 Wye Me? 7a 2
220 Wye should I?
-
7a 2
221 Wye Bother
-
7b  
222 If So, Wye 6c ** 4
223 All Ten Mill
-
7a+  
224 Save Your Kisses For Me
-
7a+ **  
225 Kiss of Death
-
6b+ * 4
226 Goodbye Kiss
-
6c+ 3
227 Perfect Kiss
-
6b ** 8
  MAIN CLIFF CONTINUATION
229 Faithful Couple
-
E3 5c  
230 Slave To The Cave
-
E2 6a  
231 Which Poison?
-
E3 5c  
232 What Presence?
-
E4 6b  
233 No chance E3 6a 1
234 Some Chance
-
E4 6b  
235 Sausage Dog
-
E3 5c *  
236 Pocket Tarantula
-
E2 5c  
237 Goebbels, Moseley, God and Ingrams
-
E4 5c  
238 There You Go Again E4 6a *  
239 Snake Flake
-
E2 5c  
240 Free The Radicals
-
E3 5b  
241 Mouchette
-
E3 6a *  

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