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At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.
We have suspended the UKC Logbooks Top Ascents and Conditions pages and we will no longer accept ascents dated from 23rd March onwards. You can still upload your historic ascents.
Altitude 114m a.s.l
Ollie Elms on Almost Me © chrisscutt
2018 : IMPORTANT ACCESS INFORMATION : PLEASE READ
All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area within the reserve. Peregrines nest on the crag and nesting restrictions apply (see restrictions info below) Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land No further new routing
Please ensure you follow this code to the letter if climbing at Ban-y-Gor. Continued future access depends on climbers demonstrating good behaviour, and the agreement will be reviewed in 2018 with potential for us to argue for increased access if the code of conduct has been followed. The new access arrangements are also set out in the BMC's Regional Access Database (RAD) and a sign will be placed at the boundary of the restricted area.
See UKC thread http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=656960 and RAD (follow the link below from the green box)
Impressive large crag, split in two tiers, and a long 15m escarpment. Good quality limestone, generally sound, and well protectable. Both trad and bolt protected desperates. Both single-, and multi-pitch routes up to 25 metres. Rarely (if ever) crowded.
Cleaning and re-equipping is in progress 2005/2006. In particular, many routes on the escarpment are now fully bolted.
Park at the grassy areas above Wintour's Leap. Walk down Lancaut Lane for 100m until just past a gate on the right, and just before the path into the nature reserve on the left.
Now follow a vague path on the right around the edge of the field (without crossing the fence into the field), dropping down a couple of metres where necessary until you come to a rock-lined pit (close to the opposite corner of the field from the car parking).
Descend a short, easy gully to the path which takes you past The Mushroom Walls and on to The Escarpment.
A review of the previous access agreement with Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) has now taken place and the climbable area will be extended in 2018 once the peregrines which are now nesting on Main Wall have fledged their young.
This extension is only possible due to climbers following the agreed access over the past 18 months or so and demonstrating that we are a responsible user group. Needless to say maintaining this extended access is contingent on future adherence to the below climber's code of conduct too:
Dates: 15 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies to all routes left of Heady Days, not including that route.
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