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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 42
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 400m a.s.l
Faces E

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Tufty Club Rebellion © Kevin Avery

Crag features

Slabby left flank, v steep E face (though its ridge, Schmitar Ridge, gives a long Severe). E face is quick-drying (compared to other local crags). Advisable to check routes with allegedly in-situ pegs by abseil first. Most climbs sound but some loose blocks possible. Descent by the ridge. Routes up to 100ft including Tufty Club Rebellion (E5 6a) and King Wad (E5 6b).

Approach notes

Best car parking probably on the Pass, and walk up the hill - less far than up to the Cromlech.

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North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Llanberis (2009)

Out of print:
The lower-off at the top - the rope looped directly through the in-situ wires. We didn't want to ab off it on its own.
Bulls Crack - 16/Jun/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Scimitar Ridge
S 4a * 3
2 The Bolton Wanderer E6 6b **  
3 Artemis
VD 3
4 The Roc-Nest Monster E4 6a ** 101
5 A Lot Less Monstrous E3 5c *** 4
6 Jack of Wads E4 6a ** 4
7 King Wad E6 6b *** 87
8 Surgical Lust
E7 6b ** 7
9 Tufty Club Rebellion
E5 6b *** 28
10 Troy E1 5b ** 136
11 Troy, Direct Start E3 6a 7
12 Chreon E2 5b ** 145
13 Soupa Mario
E6 6a *  
14 Romany Soup
E5 6a * 7
Climb name Grade
15 Killerkranky E5 6b *** 133
16 The Kicker Conspiracy
E5 6a ** 40
17 The Trumpet Blowers E7 6c ** 2
18 The Trumpet Slappers E7 6c ***  
19 The 39 Slaps E7 6c ** 7
20 Agamemnon
E1 5b 6
21 Scabbard
VS 4c  
22 Hermes
VS 5a  
23 Kitten versus Pig
E5 6b * 1
24 Mutiny on the Mouse Organ
E4 6a * 3
25 The Bells, The Bells, ...
E5 6b  
26 Achilles
E3 5c  
27 Sparta
E3 5c * 4
28 Thermopylae
HVS 5a  
Climb name Grade
29 Xerxes
E1 5b 1
30 Are You Having It about the Mammoths
E4 6b  
31 Are You Having It about the Woolly Mammoths X 10 *** 4
32 0 f7B ***  
33 Eight Days In June V8 *** 2
34 Rapier V2 * 1
35 Thor thumbs f6A+ 1
36 Jug It f5+ 1
37 Un Named As Yet f6B 1
38 Un Named As Yet 2 f6C  
39 Natural Selection f6C 1
40 Solid Rock Sandwich f6C 1
41 Queen Bee E7 6c ** 4
42 Hive Mind E2 6a 2

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