Climbs 128
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

The Fascist and Me © Liam Postlethwaite

Crag features

For some people the hardest thing about Trevallen is getting back out again. There will be a few climbers out there who have abseiled down to do the classic The Hole (HVS) and then struggled to do the start move only to realise that there is no easier escape; persistence usually gets you up though, since above the start it lets up considerably. If you get through this initiation test un-scarred then a whole host of treasures awaits, in fact there is more quality hard climbing here than anywhere else apart from Huntsman's Leap. The climbing follows a distinct series of bands which slope downwards towards the St Govan's end. The lower band contains the meat of most of the routes - some with good gear, like Sunlover (E3) and Yellow Pearls (E5); and a few big run-outs like Ships that Pass in the Night (E5); but all have immaculate and steep rock. The middle band is much more compact giving some bold sections on many routes like Dogs of Hoare (E5) - usually more technical than pumpy though. The top of the crag has a series of huge juggy breaks which is nowhere better experienced than on The Fascist and Me (E4).

Approach notes

Tidal on routes East of Romany; non-tidal elsewhere.

Access Advice

 Restrictions only apply to a short section.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 26 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2017 restrictions -All Lifted early for 2017 on 26-06-2017 - climbing allowed for remainder of 2017.

No Climbing between "Meatloaf" to Breaking the Habit" inclusive due to nesting Choughs.

The climbing restriction for nesting peregrine, from ‘Sounds of the Suburbs’ to ‘Endangered Species’ inclusive has been lifted early on 10-05-17.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Pembroke

The famous Pembroke Rockfax has returned with this glorious full-colour version packed with classic routes and all the wonderful features that you have come to expect from Rockfax. It is now twice the size of the old 1995 book and has some of the biggest and clearest photo-topos that have ever been published in a UK guidebook.
More info
Has anyone been up Fulmar Pants recently?? has the second pitch altered significantly since the guide books were written? the crack is shattered and falling apart, the hand traverse is unprotectable and the move up to the easy finishing corner is desperate and loose. Should have guessed something was up by all the gear left behind to allow retreat. A warning should be added to let any body know they are in for a desperate time with v serious consequences if you come off the hand traverse ie. don't bother..
Paul Bowen - 28/Aug/07
Don't make the mistake we made on our first visit to Trevallen, which was to abseil on our twin 9mm's, assuming that we'd be alright to pull them down after us... Ho ho. They got stuck in the erosion 'gully' by the main abseil point, and it took a good hour of awkward scrambling to get to St.Govan's and up the descent there (this traverse to St.Govan's can be impossible if the tides are wrong). TAKE A SEPARATE AB ROPE!!!
Nick Smith - UKC - 02/Mar/05
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Big Bruiser Area
2 Tumbling Dice
-
E3 5b  
3 Stem Them
-
E4 6a * 1
4 Baseheart
-
E5 6a *  
5 Vogage to the Bottom of the Sea
-
E5 6a ** 4
6 Stingray
-
E5 6a  
7 Fabulous Fishing
-
E5 6b **  
8 The Big Bruiser
-
E3 5c *  
9 Know What I Mean 'marry
-
E5 6b  
10 Rock around the Block E3 5c *** 2
11 Back up Boy
-
E6 6c  
12 Once More into the Furnace
-
E5 6a *  
13 It Does Your Head In
-
E6 6b  
14 Unilateral Disarmament
-
E7 6c  
  Heugamont
16 Scraping the Barrel
-
E4 6a  
17 It Takes All Sorts
-
E2 5b  
18 Not Tonight Josephine
-
E5 6b * 2
19 Waterloo
-
E6 6b * 2
20 Napoleon Bone Apart
-
E6 6b ** 3
21 Heugamont E5 6a ** 9
22 Man from Uncle E6 6b ** 5
23 Versaille E4 6a ** 6
24 Fat Finger Exercise E5 6a * 2
25 Physical Jerks E5 6b * 2
26 The Bitch E5 6b * 10
27 Joan E4 6a * 5
  Sunlover
29 Sunlover E3 5c *** 331
30 Pearl Powder E6 6b * 4
31 Yellow Pearls E5 6b *** 74
32 Boss Hogg E6 6b ** 13
33 Barbarella E5 6a *** 138
34 Orange Robe Burning E6 6b *** 41
35 I Saw
-
E6 6c * 1
36 Youth on Fire E3 5c * 47
37 Fulmar Pants HVS 5a 39
38 Along the Waterfront
-
E1 5b 1
39 Death Ray Glare
-
E4 6b  
40 Feet Like Water-Wings
-
E6 6b  
41 Alien Being
-
E4 6b *  
42 Nasty Nasty
-
E5 6a * 3
43 Colour Scheme
-
E3 5c  
44 Wolf
-
E6 6b  
45 Nosferatu
-
E6 6b  
46 Outfoxed
-
E6 6b  
47 Black Day at Bad Rock
-
E5 6c  
  Endangered Species
49 Alfie Noakes
-
E1 5b 1
50 Sound of the Suburbs
-
E3 5c  
51 Broadsword
-
E4 6a * 11
52 Medium Sliced
-
E5 6b **  
53 The Emotional See-Saw of the Infertility Clinic
-
E4 6a *  
54 Beef Jerky
-
E2 5c 2
55 Two Fat Ladies
-
E6 6a  
56 Dead as a Dodo
-
E4 6a 2
57 Endangered Species
-
E2 5b * 36
58 The Energy Funnel E3 6a * 2
  The Hole
60 Hands of the Hunter E4 6a * 2
61 Goats that Go Gnash in the Night E3 6a 13
62 Enter the Goat E2 5b * 249
63 The Hole HVS 5b ** 458
64 The Hole (Direct Start)
-
E1 5c 21
65 Travellin' Man E4 6a 4
66 Muscle Beyond Eyeballs
-
E6 6a  
67 Dead Ringer E2 5b 12
68 Old Dogs, New Tricks
-
E2 5b *  
69 Bat out of Hell
-
E5 6a  
70 Meatloaf
-
E3 6b * 3
71 Wallflower
-
E5 6a  
72 Gypsy Lane HVS 5a * 42
73 Romany E3 5c ** 54
74 The Meaning of Life E4 5c *  
75 Breaking the Habit E7 6c **  
  Fascist and Me
77 No Peace for the Justice
-
E5 6b  
78 Justice of the Peace
-
E6 6b **  
79 British Machiavellian Council
-
E6 6b  
80 Smash the Bass
-
E5 6b **  
81 The Family
-
E6 6b *  
82 Roof of the World
-
E7 6b **  
83 Horizontal Pleasures
-
E7 6c  
84 Bingcat
-
E4 6a  
85 A Walrus's Dream
-
E3 6a  
86 Fascist Groove Thang
-
E4 6a * 4
87 Neo-fascist Roof Thing
-
E5 6c * 1
88 The Fascist and Me E4 6a *** 96
89 Sex and Violets
-
E1 5b 1
90 Robert Burns
-
E2 5c  
91 The Manacle
-
E4 6a *  
92 Coriolis affair E2 5c ** 27
93 Super Gerontone
-
HVS 5a 1
94 Another Day, Another Dog
-
E6 6b **  
95 The Barbarians are Coming
-
E5 6b *  
96 Stepaside
-
E2 5c  
97 Mishcola E1 5a 1
  Trevallen Pillar
99 Trevallen Pillar - Original Finish E4 6a *** 37
100 Trevallen Pillar E4 6a *** 177
101 Trevallen ArĂȘte
-
E4 5c 1
102 Ships that Pass in the Night E5 6a *** 69
103 Abandon Ship E5 6a ** 6
104 Sachsenring E5 6b ** 5
105 Wild Geese
-
E3 6a * 1
106 Dogs of Hoare E5 6a *** 28
107 Just Another Dog E5 6b *  
  The Mercenary
109 Soldier of Fortune E1 5b ** 98
110 Private Schultz E4 6a  
111 Fortune Cookie E6 6b **  
112 Major Effort
-
E6 6b  
113 High Pressure E4 6b * 2
114 The Honeymoon Killers E5 6a *  
115 Reach for the Sky E3 5c ** 15
116 Storm Trooper E2 5b * 20
117 The Mercenary E3 5c ** 34
118 Hand Jive
-
E3 5c ** 3
119 Brown Bess E4 6a 1
120 Dinkum Wall E3 5c ** 49
121 Australia, Australia
-
E3 5c  
122 Party People
-
E1 5b **  
123 May Day
-
E1 5a  
124 Oz Court
-
E1 5b  
125 Perth Pink E4 6a * 2
126 Private War
-
E3 6a *  
127 Baked Alaska
-
E3 6a *  
128 Sweet Tooth
-
E2 5c * 5
129 Molasses
-
E2 5c  
130 Stainless
-
E2 5b 1
131 Hammerite
-
E4 5c *  
132 Hammerite ArĂȘte
-
E1 5a  
133 Smooth Finish
-
E1 5b  
134 Red Rum
-
S 4b  
135 Grand National
-
HVS 5a  
136 A Day at the Races
-
HVS 5b  

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer loundsy