Climbs 129
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

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The Fascist and Me © Liam Postlethwaite

Crag features

For some people the hardest thing about Trevallen is getting back out again. There will be a few climbers out there who have abseiled down to do the classic The Hole (HVS) and then struggled to do the start move only to realise that there is no easier escape; persistence usually gets you up though, since above the start it lets up considerably. If you get through this initiation test un-scarred then a whole host of treasures awaits, in fact there is more quality hard climbing here than anywhere else apart from Huntsman's Leap. The climbing follows a distinct series of bands which slope downwards towards the St Govan's end. The lower band contains the meat of most of the routes - some with good gear, like Sunlover (E3) and Yellow Pearls (E5); and a few big run-outs like Ships that Pass in the Night (E5); but all have immaculate and steep rock. The middle band is much more compact giving some bold sections on many routes like Dogs of Hoare (E5) - usually more technical than pumpy though. The top of the crag has a series of huge juggy breaks which is nowhere better experienced than on The Fascist and Me (E4).

Approach notes

Tidal on routes East of Romany; non-tidal elsewhere.

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 26 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Update June 26th -2019. The birds have succesfully fledged and restrictions have been lifted early for 2019. 

No Climbing due to nesting Choughs  between "The Energy Funnel’ to ‘Enter the goat’ inclusive plus the traverse line,  ‘Old Dog, New Tricks’.

The peregrine are back on the ledge at ‘The Hole’,  therefore the restricted area includes ‘Sound of the Suburbs’ to ‘Endangered Species’, including "The Hole". 

The main abseil approach past "The Hole" can be used in 2019 but please do not hang around for longer than necessary to avoid disturbing nesting birds.

The route "The Hole", being the easiest route out of Trevallen,  should only be climbed as an emergency escape. 

 

 

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Pembroke

This new app version of the Pembroke Rockfax has been significantly updated with 350 extra routes, new geo-located maps and updates to the existing information. The print guide from 2009 had 650 routes and this new app package has nearly 1000! The update includes many easier routes plus extra lines at the main crags covered in the book. It also has extensive deep water soloing coverage with the majority of the crags from Mike Robertson's 2007 Deep Water book added to the mix.
More info

Pembroke

This book from 2009 covers all the classic routes on the most popular crags of Pembroke. It covers the beautiful slab climbing around St. David's and all the best crags of Range East and the Lydstep areas, as far as Mother Carey's Kitchen. The range and variety of routes is enough to keep any climber happy; from those leading moderate grades keen to have a look for the first time, all the way to those who have developed lifelong obsessions for the place!
More info
Has anyone been up Fulmar Pants recently?? has the second pitch altered significantly since the guide books were written? the crack is shattered and falling apart, the hand traverse is unprotectable and the move up to the easy finishing corner is desperate and loose. Should have guessed something was up by all the gear left behind to allow retreat. A warning should be added to let any body know they are in for a desperate time with v serious consequences if you come off the hand traverse ie. don't bother..
Paul Bowen - 28/Aug/07
Don't make the mistake we made on our first visit to Trevallen, which was to abseil on our twin 9mm's, assuming that we'd be alright to pull them down after us... Ho ho. They got stuck in the erosion 'gully' by the main abseil point, and it took a good hour of awkward scrambling to get to St.Govan's and up the descent there (this traverse to St.Govan's can be impossible if the tides are wrong). TAKE A SEPARATE AB ROPE!!!
Nick Smith - UKC - 02/Mar/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Big Bruiser Area
2 Tumbling Dice
-
E3 5b  
3 Stem Them
-
E4 6a * 3
4 Baseheart
-
E5 6a * 2
5 Vogage to the Bottom of the Sea
-
E5 6a ** 8
6 Stingray
-
E5 6a  
7 Fabulous Fishing
-
E5 6b **  
8 The Big Bruiser
-
E3 5c *  
9 Know What I Mean 'marry
-
E5 6b  
10 Rock around the Block E3 5c *** 9
11 Back up Boy
-
E6 6c  
12 Once More into the Furnace
-
E5 6a *  
13 It Does Your Head In
-
E6 6b  
14 Unilateral Disarmament
-
E7 6c  
  Heugamont
16 Scraping the Barrel
-
E4 6a  
17 It Takes All Sorts
-
E2 5b  
18 Not Tonight Josephine
-
E5 6b * 2
19 Waterloo E6 * 2
20 Napoleon Bone Apart E6 6b * 3
21 Heugamont E6 6b ** 10
22 Man from Uncle E6 6b ** 5
23 Versaille E4 6a ** 6
24 Fat Finger Exercise E5 6a * 2
25 Physical Jerks E5 6b * 2
26 The Bitch E5 6b * 10
27 Joan E4 6a * 5
  Sunlover
29 Sunlover E3 5c *** 391
30 Pearl Powder E6 6b * 4
31 Yellow Pearls E5 6b *** 74
32 Boss Hogg E6 6b ** 15
33 Barbarella E5 6a *** 139
34 Orange Robe Burning E6 6b *** 47
35 I Saw
-
E6 6c * 1
36 Youth on Fire E3 5c * 56
37 Fulmar Pants HVS 5a 47
38 Along the Waterfront
-
E1 5b 1
39 Death Ray Glare
-
E4 6b  
40 Feet Like Water-Wings
-
E6 6b  
41 Alien Being
-
E4 6b *  
42 Nasty Nasty
-
E5 6a * 3
43 Colour Scheme
-
E3 5c  
44 Wolf
-
E6 6b  
45 Nosferatu
-
E6 6b  
46 Outfoxed
-
E6 6b  
Climb name Grade
47 Black Day at Bad Rock
-
E5 6c  
48 Prawn Wall * E1 5a * 1
  Endangered Species
50 Alfie Noakes
-
E1 5b 1
51 Sound of the Suburbs
-
E3 5c  
52 Broadsword
-
E4 6a * 10
53 Medium Sliced
-
E5 6b **  
54 The Emotional See-Saw of the Infertility Clinic
-
E4 6a *  
55 Beef Jerky
-
E2 5c 2
56 Two Fat Ladies
-
E6 6a  
57 Dead as a Dodo
-
E4 6a 3
58 Endangered Species E2 5b * 39
59 The Energy Funnel E3 6a * 2
  The Hole
61 Hands of the Hunter E4 6a * 3
62 Goats that Go Gnash in the Night E2 5c 16
63 Enter the Goat E2 5b ** 302
64 The Hole HVS 5b ** 549
65 The Hole (Direct Start)
-
E1 5c 36
66 Travellin' Man E4 6a 6
67 Muscle Beyond Eyeballs
-
E6 6a 1
68 Dead Ringer E2 5b 22
69 Old Dogs, New Tricks
-
E2 5b *  
70 Bat out of Hell
-
E5 6a  
71 Meatloaf
-
E3 6b * 3
72 Wallflower
-
E5 6a  
73 Gypsy Lane HVS 5a * 47
74 Romany E3 5c ** 70
75 The Meaning of Life E4 5c *  
76 Breaking the Habit E7 6c **  
  Fascist and Me
78 No Peace for the Justice
-
E5 6b  
79 Justice of the Peace
-
E6 6b **  
80 British Machiavellian Council
-
E6 6b  
81 Smash the Bass
-
E5 6b **  
82 The Family
-
E6 6b *  
83 Roof of the World
-
E7 6b **  
84 Horizontal Pleasures
-
E7 6c  
85 Bingcat
-
E4 6a  
86 A Walrus's Dream
-
E3 6a  
87 Fascist Groove Thang
-
E4 6a * 4
88 Neo-fascist Roof Thing
-
E5 6c * 1
89 The Fascist and Me E4 6a *** 117
90 Sex and Violets
-
E1 5b 1
91 Robert Burns
-
E2 5c  
92 The Manacle
-
E4 6a *  
Climb name Grade
93 Coriolis affair E2 5c ** 35
94 Super Gerontone
-
HVS 5a 1
95 Another Day, Another Dog
-
E6 6b **  
96 The Barbarians are Coming
-
E5 6b *  
97 Stepaside
-
E2 5c  
98 Mishcola E1 5a 2
  Trevallen Pillar
100 Trevallen Pillar - Original Finish E4 6a *** 46
101 Trevallen Pillar E4 6a *** 198
102 Trevallen ArĂȘte
-
E4 5c 1
103 Ships that Pass in the Night E5 6a *** 92
104 Abandon Ship E6 6b ** 6
105 Sachsenring E5 6b ** 5
106 Wild Geese
-
E3 6a * 1
107 Dogs of Hoare E5 6a *** 32
108 Just Another Dog E5 6b *  
  The Mercenary
110 Soldier of Fortune E1 5b ** 116
111 Private Schultz E4 6a  
112 Fortune Cookie E6 6b **  
113 Major Effort
-
E6 6b  
114 High Pressure E4 6b * 2
115 The Honeymoon Killers E5 6a *  
116 Reach for the Sky E3 5c ** 19
117 Storm Trooper E1 5b * 24
118 The Mercenary E3 5c ** 37
119 Hand Jive
-
E3 5c ** 3
120 Brown Bess E4 6a 1
121 Dinkum Wall E3 5c ** 65
122 Australia, Australia
-
E3 5c  
123 Party People
-
E1 5b ** 4
124 May Day
-
E1 5a  
125 Oz Court
-
E1 5b  
126 Perth Pink E4 6a * 6
127 Private War
-
E3 6a *  
128 Baked Alaska
-
E3 6a *  
129 Sweet Tooth
-
E2 5c * 5
130 Molasses
-
E2 5c  
131 Stainless
-
E2 5b 1
132 Hammerite
-
E4 5c *  
133 Hammerite ArĂȘte
-
E1 5a  
134 Smooth Finish
-
E1 5b  
135 Red Rum
-
S 4b  
136 Grand National
-
HVS 5a  
137 A Day at the Races
-
HVS 5b  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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