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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 80
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 6m a.s.l
Faces S

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Ben Heason deep water soloing an E3 at Newton Head, Pembroke © http://Climbers.net

Crag features

Newton Head is the headland between Stennis Ford and Chapel Point. It has surprisingly little on offer for the lead climber but a few things worth seeking out for the dedicated deep water soloist.

Approach notes

Approach from St. Govan's in 5 mins.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Pembroke

This new app version of the Pembroke Rockfax has been significantly updated with 350 extra routes, new geo-located maps and updates to the existing information. The print guide from 2009 had 650 routes and this new app package has nearly 1000! The update includes many easier routes plus extra lines at the main crags covered in the book. It also has extensive deep water soloing coverage with the majority of the crags from Mike Robertson's 2007 Deep Water book added to the mix.
More info

Pembroke

This book from 2009 covers all the classic routes on the most popular crags of Pembroke. It covers the beautiful slab climbing around St. David's and all the best crags of Range East and the Lydstep areas, as far as Mother Carey's Kitchen. The range and variety of routes is enough to keep any climber happy; from those leading moderate grades keen to have a look for the first time, all the way to those who have developed lifelong obsessions for the place!
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
from what i can see newton head does not feature in Pembroke Rockfax 06
chris price - 21/Aug/06
The shelf part way down the cliff is easy to get to and provides about the only place to boulder in the area. It\'s also a good place for absolute beginners to have a go top-roping as the routes are easy and you can always walk back up if you\'re not able to climb. Very popular with school clubs for this reason.
John Wellbelove - 15/Jun/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Thunderwave Buttress
2 Prelude
-
S 4a 4
3 Fugue
-
HS 4b 9
4 The Recess
-
D 7
5 Left Edge HS 4b * 16
6 Triple Point
-
E3 6a  
7 Bypass HS 4b 10
8 An Offering to the Sea
-
E2 5b * 7
9 Chicken Run HVS 5a * 14
10 Double Dragon 4a S2 * 13
11 The Ceaseless Tide 6b+ S2 *  
12 Splashdown 6b+ S3 **  
13 Sperm Bank
-
E2 5c  
14 The Street
-
HVS 5a  
15 Crest of the Wave
-
VS 4c  
16 Escape Route
-
VD  
17 Indepentissima
-
HS 4b  
18 Thunderwave
-
HS 4b * 21
19 Overhead Man
-
E1 5b 5
20 Aqua Marine
-
E2 5b 2
21 Broadwalk
-
S 4a 14
  Buckyball Face
23 Buckyball 7b S0 *  
24 9.5 Weeks 7b+ S0 *  
25 Candy Trail 6a+ S1 *  
  Bonobo Face
27 Heimlich Manoeuvre 6c S1 *  
28 World of Bonobos 6c+ S1 ** 11
29 Bonobo ArĂȘte 5a S1 * 12
30 Porridge Lolly
-
VD 3
Climb name Grade
31 Dai-uretic E1 5b * 1
32 The Surrealist/King Rib 6c S3 * 1
33 Southern Rain
-
6b+ 2
34 Hydrophobic 6b+ 2
  Granny Smith Wall
36 Galileo's Balls
-
6b+ *  
37 The Invention of Cider
-
E5 6b *  
38 Granny Smith
-
E5 6b *  
39 Sink or Swim
-
E5 6b *  
40 Eric
-
E2 5b *  
41 Coxy
-
VS 4c  
42 Reaction
-
E1 5b  
43 Pippin
-
HS 4b  
  Big Hair Wall
45 Metolius
-
E3 6a  
46 Big Hair 7a+ S1 *  
47 Underwater Love 6c+ S1 *  
48 Thoughtcrime 7a S1 *  
49 Uncovered Rock 6b+ S2 5
50 The Newton Traverse! 7a S1 *  
  The Upper Tier
52 Top Crack
-
VD 2
53 Left-hand Crack
-
VS 4c 21
54 Twin Cracks
-
VS 4c 18
55 Bridge Cracks HS 4b 27
56 Thin Crack S 4a 36
57 Central Crack VD 29
58 Right Crack
-
S 23
59 Echoes in Space
-
VS 5a  
60 Slime Bandits
-
E2 5c 1
Climb name Grade
61 Laws of Motion
-
E4 6a 1
62 Partners in Slime
-
HVS 5a 1
  Seaward Buttress
64 Ouch, Ouch, Ouch
-
VD  
65 Snap, Crackle, Splash
-
VD  
66 Snap, Snap, Snap
-
VD  
67 Not a Clew
-
E1 5b 2
68 Nautical Pomposity
-
HVS 5b  
69 Erin of Exe
-
E1 5b  
70 Love
-
HVS 5a  
71 A Fine Line
-
E1 5b *  
72 Hate
-
S 4a  
73 Linden Tea
-
D  
  East Face
75 Wimpole Street Boot Boys
-
VS 5a  
76 Neuter
-
HVS 5b 1
77 There's Only One Bobby Newton
-
E3 5c  
78 Wall of Newts
-
E3 5c * 31
79 War of Words
-
E3 5c * 7
80 Firecracker
-
E3 5c ** 37
81 Look, No Chalk
-
E5 6b  
82 Big Loose Goose
-
E5 6a  
83 Mother Goose
-
E5 6b **  
84 Megalith
-
E3 5c * 13
85 Megalith Direct
-
E3 5c  
86 Medicine Head
-
E4 6a *  
87 Frieze Frame
-
E4 6a  
88 Story of Isaac
-
E4 6a * 1

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