Climbs 55
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 490m a.s.l
Faces SE

Renny Croft on Medusa Wall (VS) Esk Buttress © S11

Crag features

One of the most impressive blocks of rock in the Lake District with a long approach march and a fantastic sunny location in a remote valley. Wonderful rock. Routes up to 120m long. Red Edge(E1), Square Chimney(VS), Bridges Route(HS), First Last and Always(E7), Central Pillar(E2), Cumbrian(E5), Tresspasser Groove(HVS). The late, great Paul Nunn described Eskdale 'as the most beautiful mountain valley in England'.

 

Concerns have recently been raised about a large, loose block at the 2nd belay on Central Pillar.

Approach notes

One and a half hour plus approach from Brotherilkeld in Eskdale or from Cockley Beck.

Guidebooks

This crag is fantastic, the situation is beautiful and it is quick drying. The walk in may be quite long but it is one of the finest I have done.
James - 28/Aug/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Afterthought
-
S 3
2 Moss
-
VS 4c  
3 Gargoyle Groove
-
VS 4c, 4c * 42
4 Gargoyle Direct
-
HVS 5a 54
5 Wild Bunch E2 5c * 8
6 Grand Slam E1 5b ** 45
7 Chimney Buttress VD  
8 The Red Edge E1 5a *** 188
9 Humdrum E3 5c *** 40
10 Black Sunday
-
HVS 5a *** 56
11 Medusa Wall
-
VS 4c 79
12 Square Chimney/Medusa Wall Combination
-
VS *** 109
13 Pegasus E3 5c * 4
14 Frustration S  
15 Bridge's Route
-
HS 4b *** 222
16 Central Pillar E2 5b *** 270
17 The Northumbrian
-
E6 6b 1
18 The Cumbrian E5 6b *** 85
19 Great Central Climb
-
VS 5a * 9
20 Trespasser Groove
-
HVS 5a *** 129
21 Bower's Route
-
HS 4b * 28
22 The Esk Gorge 2 *** 29
23 Alehouse Rock E4 5c * 4
24 Boot Hill VS 4c, 4c * 5
25 Esk Ape E5 6a ** 5
26 First and Last and Always E7 6b ***  
27 Fallout
-
E5 6a * 4
28 Desperately Sea King
-
E6 6b ** 1
29 Lookster
-
E5 6b *  
30 Antibody
-
E4 6a * 1
31 G.T.I
-
E4 5c * 1
32 Hydra
-
E2 5c 8
33 Strontium Dog E4 6a 3
34 Serpent Route
-
HS * 1
35 Big Ben
-
E1 5b * 1
36 Wild Bunch Left-Hand
-
E3 5c * 1
37 West Point
-
HVS 5a5a * 2
38 Harkster
-
E2 5c * 1
39 Microbe
-
E1 5a5b 1
40 Amoeba
-
HVS 5b5a * 3
41 Apache
-
E3 5c5a 1
42 Thor's Buttress and Pen
-
3 *** 12
43 Perseus
-
E3 5c * 1
44 Esk Buttress Girdle VS  

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