Climbs 52
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 210m a.s.l
Faces W

Mark Glaister on Deus Ex Machina (6c) at Navigation Quarry © Jon Warner

Crag features

West facing, open but sheltered from wind and quite pleasant on the eye for a quarry.

Routes up to 25m. Mostly steep solid slabs; on less-used routes there are friable holds. Belays are available at the top. The missing insitu gear (pegs) have been replaced with bolts on a number of lines.

Trad routes in the VS - E4 range, include the superb Owl and the Antelope (E2), On Jupiter and Mars (E1) & Fly Me to the Moon (VS) and should be on everyones essential sandstone tick list.

There are an equal number of sports routes between Fr.4 to Fr.7b. In the centre of the cliff are 5 excellent lines, including Western Front Direct; possibly the best Fr.7a in these parts.

A topo is available on the South Wales Mountaineering Club Website (see link below).


Approach notes

Bird warning: kestrels can nest here March - August: avoid their nests.

>From Cardiff take the A470 to turning (signposted Abercynon). At the top of the slip-road turn L: head towards the Navigation Inn, then do a U-turn and head back, to traffic lights. Turn R, park in layby on L of road.

Walk back twds traffic lights, through gate on R onto an old road and then onto narrow path with protruding cables. Incline leads to the Common; continue for 100m until quarry entrance is visible on L.

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

BMC have been adviced that Peregines are nesting at this lcoation. Avoid climbing the the routes Fly Me To The Moon and A Blank Abstract on the MAIN WALL – LEFT HAND SLABS at Navigation Quarry.


South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
There is a wobbly block that contains the third bolt on relaxed ladybird. This bolt could do with being moved as it's highly unlikely to hold a fall.
afshapes - 26/May/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Left Hand Retaining Wall
2 Leftover 5a 27
3 Expanded Mole Groove HVS 5a 3
4 Gold Block 5c 7
5 Kestrel Groove HVS 4c 5
  Main Wall - Left Hand Slabs
7 The Elastic Retreat E4 * 3
8 Half Man Half Machine 6b * 32
9 Code Of The Road E1 5a 5
10 Rockover Beethoven 5c * 88
11 The Bolt-Fund Blues 6b+ * 39
12 Where Did You Get That Bolt 7a 4
13 Squash Match 6a * 71
14 Squash Match Direct Finish 6a * 51
15 Blood, Sweat and Beers 6b ** 106
16 Geeny E1 5b 31
17 Death Match E2 * 8
18 Deathwish E1 5a 11
19 Fly Me To The Moon VS * 142
20 A Blank Abstract E3 9
21 Man Or Mouse 7b * 7
22 Let Me Play Amongst The Stars E2 ** 65
  Central Sports Area
24 Deus ex machina 6c ** 77
25 Black Magic 6b ** 132
26 Ladybird E3 5c 4
27 The Relaxed Ladybird 6c ** 109
28 Relax E2 5b 2
29 Great Expectations 6c+ ** 65
30 Western Front E3 6a 5
31 Western Front Direct 7a *** 139
32 Eastern Bloc Rock 7a+ ** 37
33 Tears For Smears E1 5b 5
34 Goblin Girl 6b+ * 24
  Owl and Antelope Area
36 Let Me Know What Life Is Like HVS 5b * 14
37 Evening Light E2 * 4
38 Save A Mouse, Eat A Pussy E3 * 7
39 Mouse Trap E3 * 50
40 The Owl and the Antelope E2 *** 70
41 On Jupiter And Mars E1 ** 89
42 Over the Moon E3 * 3
  Main Wall - Right Hand Side
44 Crash Landing 6a * 129
45 Ol' Blue Eyes E3 2
46 Heart-throb E1 15
47 Sheepbone Wall HVS 2
48 Feeling Sheep 7b 1
  Alco Troll Buttress
50 Micro-wire Corporation E4 6a  
51 Big Spider Groove HVS 5a 3
52 Alco-troll 6a 24
53 Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 1 7a 8
55 Acid House Trip E2 5c 2
56 The Gang Of Four E3 5b 1
  Outside of Quarry
58 The Side Project HVS 5a 1
59 Peg Bristol * E5 6a  
60 String Theory (Traverse) * 6b+  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer alan rosier