UKC

Climbs 81
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 210m a.s.l
Faces W

Mark Glaister on Deus Ex Machina (6c) at Navigation Quarry © Jon Warner

Crag features

West facing, open but sheltered from wind and quite pleasant on the eye for a quarry.

Routes up to 25m. Mostly steep solid slabs; on less-used routes there are friable holds. Belays are available at the top. The missing insitu gear (pegs) have been replaced with bolts on a number of lines.

Trad routes in the VS - E4 range, include the superb Owl and the Antelope (E2), On Jupiter and Mars (E1) & Fly Me to the Moon (VS) and should be on everyones essential sandstone tick list.

There are an equal number of sports routes between Fr.4 to Fr.7b. In the centre of the cliff are 5 excellent lines, including Western Front Direct; possibly the best Fr.7a in these parts.

A topo is available on the South Wales Mountaineering Club Website (see link below).

p.s. STOP STEALING LOWER-OFF KRABS

Approach notes

Bird warning: kestrels can nest here March - August: avoid their nests.

>From Cardiff take the A470 to turning (signposted Abercynon). At the top of the slip-road turn L: head towards the Navigation Inn, then do a U-turn and head back, to traffic lights. Turn R, park in layby on L of road.

Walk back twds traffic lights, through gate on R onto an old road and then onto narrow path with protruding cables. Incline leads to the Common; continue for 100m until quarry entrance is visible on L.

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

BMC have been adviced that Peregines are nesting at this lcoation. Avoid climbing the the routes Fly Me To The Moon and A Blank Abstract on the MAIN WALL – LEFT HAND SLABS at Navigation Quarry.

Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
There is a wobbly block that contains the third bolt on relaxed ladybird. This bolt could do with being moved as it's highly unlikely to hold a fall.
afshapes - 26/May/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Left Hand Retaining Wall
2 Leftover 5a 31
3 Gold Block 5c 8
  Main Wall - Left Hand Slabs
5 Peg Bristol E5 6a  
6 Half Man Half Machine 6b * 33
7 Code Of The Road E1 5a 5
8 Bootylicious 6a 3
9 Rockover Beethoven 5c * 92
10 The Bolt-Fund Blues 6b+ * 38
11 Where Did You Get That Bolt 7a 4
12 Squash Match 6a * 90
13 Good sweat and jeers 6a+ 1
14 Blood, Sweat and Beers 6b ** 112
15 Geeny E1 5b 31
16 Death Twitch 6a * 1
17 Deathwish E1 5a 12
18 Fly Me To The Moon VS * 156
19 A Blank Abstract 7a 2
20 My Way 6a+ 1
21 Man Or Mouse 7b * 7
22 Project Project  
23 Let Me Play Amongst The Stars E2 ** 64
  Left hand slabs (off the ledge)
25 How I Wrote Elastic Man 7a+ * 1
26 The Elastic Retreat 6c+ 2
  Central Sports Area
28 Deus ex Machina 6c ** 85
29 Black Magic 6b ** 148
30 The Relaxed Ladybird 6c ** 118
31 Great Expectations 6c+ ** 61
Climb name Grade
32 Western Front Direct 7a *** 129
33 Eastern Bloc Rock 7a+ ** 35
34 Goblin Girl 6b+ * 25
35 Dry Entry 5c 5
  Owl and Antelope Area
37 Let Me Know What Life Is Like HVS 5b 14
38 Evening Light (sport) 6a+ 3
39 Save a Mouse Eat a Pussy 6c * 3
40 Mouse Trap (sport) 6b+ 3
41 The Owl and the Antelope E2 *** 64
42 On Jupiter And Mars E1 ** 83
43 Over the Moon E3 * 3
  Main Wall - Right Hand Side
45 Crash Landing 6a * 140
46 Ol' Blue Eyes 6c 4
47 Heart Throb 6b * 5
48 Ewe Flock Wit 6a 4
49 Ram Raider 6a+ 4
50 Spring Lamb Mantle 6b * 8
51 Feeling Sheep 7b 1
52 Another Project Project  
53 Baaaaad to the Bone 6b+ 1
54 Tupping Time 4c 4
  Right Hand Slabs (Off the Ledge)
56 Ram Bam Thank Ewe Mam 5a 3
57 Mint Topping 5b 4
58 Woolly Pullover 5a 1
59 Tupping Time (top wall) 4b 2
60 Mutton Chops 5b 1
61 Spin A Yarn 5c 1
Climb name Grade
  Alco Troll Buttress
63 Stainless Steel Association 4c * 1
64 Stainless Steel Incorporation 6a+ 1
65 Micro Incorporation 6b+  
66 Micro-wire Corporation E4 6a  
67 Big Spider Groove HVS 5a 3
68 Alco-troll 6a 26
69 Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 1 7a 9
  Traverses
71 Acid House Trip E2 5c 2
72 The Gang Of Four E3 5b 1
73 String Theory (Traverse) 6b+  
  Outside of Quarry
75 The Side Project HVS 5a 1
  SUPERCEEDED and OLD LINES
77 Expanded Mole Groove HVS 5a 3
78 Kestrel Groove HVS 4c 5
79 The Elastic Retreat E4 * 3
80 Squash Match Direct Finish 6a * 50
81 Death Match E2 * 8
82 A Blank Abstract E3 7
83 Ladybird E3 5c 4
84 Relax E2 5b 2
85 Western Front E3 6a 5
86 Tears For Smears E1 5b 5
87 Evening Light E2 * 4
88 Save A Mouse, Eat A Pussy E3 * 7
89 Mouse Trap E3 * 50
90 Ol' Blue Eyes E3 2
91 Heart-throb E1 14
92 Sheepbone Wall HVS 3

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