Climbs 57
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 160m a.s.l
Faces S

Bouldering @ Penallta © Gabe

Crag features

Very popular with sub-E1 climbers (being good quality but also offering those grades). A two-star crag, with routes up to 22m.

Approach notes

Near Ystrad Mynach, visible behind the A472 (Ystrad Mynach to Nelson). From Y.M. go under both railway bridges, then 3rd exit from the roundabount, (from Nelson, 2nd left off the roundsbout) then immediate left into Tredomen Business Park.

Cross the railway bridge, then find the well-worn path to the crag (not the cycle track) - 2 mins. Usual rules about leaving nothing valuable or visible in the car apply.

A decent couple of hours soloing some of the lower grade stuff. A couple of nice crack lines and slabs at HS/VS. Some of the cracks in the upper amphitheaters overgrown. And shards of glass on literally every surface that it couldn't slide off.
robthered - 08/May/13
Had a nice day on Monday, but there is a lot of glass again. My partner cut his hand on some reaching up at one point. He was just there a couple weeks ago and said it hadn't been so bad then.
saralward - 15/Mar/12
Went here last night, generally good, still broken glass - small and often.
matt_lethargic - 30/Jul/10
had a good afternoon at this crag, some bouldering and some free soloing. found a nice boulder problem but i have no way of identifying it. small amount of broken glass but otherwise in reasonable condition. will be back next week if the weather holds out.
iamhifi - 12/Apr/10
Been up there today an it is covered in glass and beer cans again!!
Louis84 - 18/Oct/08
Many thanks to the BMC guys who took the time out to clean the crag. Looks great now, and has opened up plenty of good climbs. Thanks guys.
Gabe - 20/Aug/07
Recetly cleaned by volunteers of the new 'South Wales BMC area' in May 2007. Around 25 people spent the day there, alot of glass and beer cans removed, along with some holly tree's that blocked alot of climbs. With some more traffic the climbs will improve in quality.
stuwelly85 - 19/Jul/07
Due to the construction of a new road bypass and bridge, the walk from the original parking place is now a little longer. However, for a much shorter walk (3mins) you can now park in the Tredomen Business Park, and walk alongside the new road across the railway line, rejoining the old path to your left. Be careful to find the old path though, and not the new cycle track!
Peter Sheppard - 18/Aug/06
Well worth a visit although there is a lot of broken glass at the bottom and top of the climbs so take care. If youths are hanging around watch out as they have been known to throw bottles down as you are climbing.
Jonathan Barrett - 03/Aug/05
Some good bouldering to be had (I didn't try any routes requiring a rope). If on foot (i.e. having taken the train) I found it easier to approach from a narrow dirt path which leaves the road (A472) to the right a short distance after the housing estate when coming from Ystrad Mynach. This reaches a broader path and the most direct route to the crag is then directly in front of you. Although there were a few local kids hanging around, I had no trouble from them and enjoyed a good few hours on a variety of problems.
Dai - 28/Dec/04
Spent a sunny morning here in october,Parking is about 5 mins walk from the crag. A fantastic little crag with a variety of climbs at different grades/ exposure. Even when the rain did decide to come(dang it!), we spent a good deal of time playing on the boulder problems under the main buttress and could have stayed dry and bouldering into the evening. Very Very Friendly locals around what has become a nicely devolped walking/cycling area and a nice town (it certainly has changed from when I grew up there). Well worth a visit!
uriel - 15/Oct/04
This was the first wall i climbed (apart from indoor). The main routes are quite simply climbed, allthough gear placement is tricky, however, most climbs can be top roped quite easily and are quite enjoyable. The more challenging routes have some bolts allready fixed to the walls. The location is good, and easily accesible by train, and you can easily spend a whole day here climbing and bouldering.
Jonathan Butters - 30/Mar/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Limbo
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VS 4c * 83
2 The Leap
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HVS 4c 35
3 Cornflake
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HVS 5a 20
4 Afterthought
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HS 4b 20
5 Cadet's Route
-
VD 33
6 The Wolery
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S 58
7 Spiney Norman
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HS 4c * 54
8 Anarchia
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E2 5b  
9 Rhymney And Cocaine E4 6c * 1
10 Barefoot Jim V5 6c ** 9
11 Y-Fronts
-
S 90
12 Split Crotch Variation
-
E1 5b * 22
13 Split Crotch Variation & Continuation
-
E1 5b 5
14 Maginot Line
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E1 5b 5
15 Klingon
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E2 5c * 12
16 eeyores gloomy place
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VD 37
17 pinnacle chimney
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D 51
18 Dinsdale
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S 42
19 Too Risky
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VS 4c 6
20 Hell For Pleasure
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E1 5b 6
21 Sheer Pleasure
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E1 5b 4
22 Stitches On Scars
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E5 6b * 4
23 Stitches Direct E5 5c * 2
24 Piggy's Dyno f6B ** 2
25 Scabs
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E3 5b ** 43
26 Shriekback
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E5 6a 5
27 Shag Rat
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E1 5b 24
28 Dragon Soop VD 2
29 The Last Waltz
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D 14
30 Bold Finger VS 5b * 23
31 The Sighting
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VS 4c 10
32 The Gibbon
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S 38
33 Sheer Hell
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E2 5b 12
34 Sennapod
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HS 4b 31
35 The Horticulturalist
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S 4a 26
36 The Herbiculturalist
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S 19
37 Free Wall
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S 71
38 Devils in hell
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VD 204
39 Direct Finish
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VS 4c * 43
40 Western Roll VS 5a 6
41 Western Roll/Free World E1 5b ** 46
42 Arse Trad Mynach E3 6a 7
43 Aaron The Amorous Aardvark
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S 34
44 Pushover
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VS 4b 89
45 The Pusher
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HVS 5a 90
46 alley crack
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S 154
47 Alley Oop
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S 4a 179
48 Thin Chimney Finish
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HVS 4c * 14
49 Giggler's Arete
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E1 5b 10
50 Rainmaker
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VD 15
51 Ystrad Unillustrated E3 5b * 3
52 The Higher The Fewer
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HVS 4c 6
53 classic
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VD 7
54 PC
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VD * 7
55 Low Level Traverse
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V2 6a * 12
56 Devils In Hell Direct Finish
-
VS 4c 15
57 Pit Stop Eliminate V4 8

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