Climbs 40
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 180m a.s.l
Faces SW

Martyn Richards on the steep ground of Capstan (7b+) at The Darren © Ian Parnell

Crag features

An utterly transformed venue since the bolting up of Terminal Overhanging Wall, which gives some superb routes on very steep rock. The quarry contains two large bays split by a smaller recess. The traditional routes in the left-hand bay need a good brush. BAT wall does dry very rapidly after rain, whereas Terminal Overhanging Wall can provide shelter from heavy rain until it seeps.

UPDATE. The crag has now been cleaned and the remainder of the loose rock has been removed.It is much safer now since the demise of the loose section between Basildon Slapper and Rise.

Approach notes

If travelling by car, steps need to be taken to avoid travelling up the one way system in reverse. Approaching from Pontypridd town centre on the A4223, follow the road into the town centre, then follow signs to Graigwen to reach St. Catherine

Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
I reckon that first bolt on Basildon was the only thing holding the rock together!
Paul Rogers - 14/Jun/13
The first 20 ft of Basildon Slapper,Alive and kicking, and Round are way have been destroyed by a huge rock fall ,Capstan,Rise and the unplugged have not been affected. Take care if you are climbing in that area until things settle down and the exposed rock has been cleaned off. P
sharpie - 11/Jun/13
The first bolt on Basildon spins - probably why the hanger was taken off. New bolt required.
alan rosier - 03/Sep/10
The hanger on the first bolt on Basildon has been removed by someone,please take care when climbing this route,Alive and kicking and Round are way,there are some dodgy blocks which will be removed in the near future.Capstan ,Rise,Unplugged,and Enter the Darran are ok but still need care,please return the hanger! Cheers Andy
sharpie - 21/Jun/10
nice place to go climbing! great view of Ponty at the top of the crag. Have taken some begginer friends there ans set up a top-rope at the edge of the crag. Was a fun day! Only 20min from Cardiff
gutsy - 25/Aug/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Sharpie's traverse. V3 *  
2 Striking Twelve E3 6a * 3
3 Striking Twelve 6c 17
4 My New House 6b+ 3
5 Uphill Walker VS 4b 2
6 Sheik Yerbouti
-
E1 5a 2
7 Trillian crack
-
HVS 5a 3
8 Behind The Bikesheds E3 5c 1
9 Short Sharp and the Manic Depressive 6c 4
10 Lotta Bottle Direct E2 6b * 2
11 Lotta Bottle E2 6a 2
12 Smack 6c 25
13 Hear No Evil, See No Evil
-
VS 4c 1
14 Reach For The Sky E2 5b 1
15 Arizona Stan 7a+ ** 6
16 Capstan 7b+ *** 14
17 Basildon Slapper ( Mucky Fingers start ) 7b+ ** 16
18 Round Are Way ( 2 ) 7a+ ** 19
19 Rise 7b ** 15
20 Kosovo 7a 6
21 Sharpy Unplugged 7b+ *** 18
22 Night Train 7b+ 3
23 Niart Thgin 7a+  
24 Enter the Darren 6c+ * 8
25 Autumn Leaves
-
E3 6a 4
26 Gutted 6b * 20
27 Sorry Lorry Morry 6b ** 41
28 Juvenile Justice 7a+ * 8
29 Boulevard De Alfred Turner (1926) VS 18
30 Alfred's Variation
-
VS 4c 3
31 Andrew The Zebra 6a+ * 15
32 Calling Card E4 6b * 8
33 Stow Crack HVS 4c 12
34 Shaken Not Stirred 6c+ * 29
35 Madam-X 7a * 16
  Routes Added from Rockfax Book

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer sharpie