Climbs 35
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 180m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Martyn Richards on the steep ground of Capstan (7b+) at The Darren © Ian Parnell

Crag features

Hidden away in some woods high above Pontypridd is this compact quarry which has some good strenuous pitches which are well equipped and on good rock. The walls see little in the way of sunlight and are heavily shaded by tree cover, and as a consequence take time to come into condition. Once dry the Terminal Overhanging Wall stays dry in light rain. A rockfall altered the starts of a number of the lines but these have now been cleaned up, rebolted and reclimbed.

UPDATE. The crag has now been cleaned and the remainder of the loose rock has been removed. It is much safer now since the demise of the loose section between Basildon Slapper and Rise.

Rise,The Unplugged,Gutted,Sorry Lorry Morrie,Andrew the Zebra & Calling Card have all been re-bolted and cleaned.

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Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
I reckon that first bolt on Basildon was the only thing holding the rock together!
Paul Rogers - 14/Jun/13
The first 20 ft of Basildon Slapper,Alive and kicking, and Round are way have been destroyed by a huge rock fall ,Capstan,Rise and the unplugged have not been affected. Take care if you are climbing in that area until things settle down and the exposed rock has been cleaned off. P
sharpie - 11/Jun/13
The first bolt on Basildon spins - probably why the hanger was taken off. New bolt required.
alan rosier - 03/Sep/10
The hanger on the first bolt on Basildon has been removed by someone,please take care when climbing this route,Alive and kicking and Round are way,there are some dodgy blocks which will be removed in the near future.Capstan ,Rise,Unplugged,and Enter the Darran are ok but still need care,please return the hanger! Cheers Andy
sharpie - 21/Jun/10
nice place to go climbing! great view of Ponty at the top of the crag. Have taken some begginer friends there ans set up a top-rope at the edge of the crag. Was a fun day! Only 20min from Cardiff
gutsy - 25/Aug/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Sharpie's Traverse V3 *  
2 Striking Twelve 6c 21
3 My New House 6b+ 3
4 Uphill Walker VS 4b 2
5 Sheik Yerbouti
-
E1 5a 2
6 Trillian Crack
-
HVS 5a 3
7 Behind the Bikesheds E3 5c 1
8 The Short Sharp Manic Depressive 6c 5
9 Lotta Bottle Direct E2 6b * 2
10 Lotta Bottle E2 6a 2
11 Smack 6c 27
12 Hear No Evil, See No Evil
-
VS 4c 1
Climb name Grade
13 Reach for the Sky E2 5b 1
14 Morganstown Sam 6a+ * 6
15 Arizona Stan 7a+ ** 9
16 Capstan 7b+ *** 18
17 The Basildon Slapper 7b+ ** 17
18 Night Train 7b+ 3
19 Round Are Way 7a+ ** 23
20 Kosovo 7a 6
21 Rise 7b ** 21
22 Sharpy Unplugged 7b+ *** 26
23 Night train 7a+  
24 Enter the Darren 6c+ * 9
Climb name Grade
25 Autumn Leaves
-
E3 6a 4
26 Gutted 6b * 23
27 Sorry Lorry Morry 6b ** 50
28 Juvenile Justice 7a+ * 8
29 Boulevard De Alfred Turner (1926) VS 19
30 Alfred's Variation
-
VS 4c 3
31 Andrew the Zebra 6a+ * 17
32 Calling Card E4 6b * 8
33 Stow Crack HVS 4c 14
34 Shaken Not Stirred 6c+ * 33
35 Madam-X 7a * 19

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