UKC

Climbs 128
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 750m a.s.l
Faces N

FA The Gathering VIII,9 © petemacpherson

Crag features

A slightly longer approach than its neighbour, Corrie an t'Sneachda, makes this corrie a lot quieter.

Again - some excellent, reliable winter climbing - the steeper nature of this corrie yields some excellent technical mixed climbing and also very good rock-climbing.

Must Dos :
The Vent (II/III)
Y Gully Left Branch (III)
Centre Crack Route (IV,5)
Savage Slit (V,6, Severe)

Approach notes

Be very aware of snow conditions in Corrie an Lochain. The 'Great Slab' is a notorious avalanche black spot, and should be avoided at all costs should avalanche conditions prevail i.e. during/after heavy snow or thaw.

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Guidebooks

Note that the name of this crag is actually "Coire an Lochain". Many photographs on ukclimbing.com that use this correct name are mistakenly hyperlinked to Stob Coire nan Lochan in Glencoe.
John Hawkins - 19/Feb/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Cairngorm Summit
-
summit 75
  No.1 Buttress
3 The Rebel Alliance
-
VII 8  
4 Iron Butterfly
-
III 42
5 Coronary By-pass V 7 * 24
6 Auricle
-
VS 2
7 Auricle VI 7 ** 63
8 Ventriloquist HVS 5a * 12
9 Ventriloquist VII 7 ** 22
10 Cardiac Arête HVS ** 13
11 Open Heart VIII 9 ** 4
12 Ventricle E1 5b * 14
13 Ventricle VII 8 *** 17
14 Big Daddy VII 8 ** 4
15 Daddy Longlegs
-
HVS 5a ** 5
16 Daddy Longlegs VIII 9 *** 13
17 Inventive IV 5 * 2
18 Adventure V 5 * 3
19 Lateral Thinking
-
IV 6  
20 Hyperventilator IX *  
21 The Vent II ** 266
  No.2 Buttress
23 Vent Rib and Traverse
-
II 3
24 Vent Rib Direct IV 7 * 12
25 Ventilator III * 133
26 Chute Route V 5 * 33
27 The Milky Way III ** 306
28 Minute Man
-
VII 7 1
29 Appetite for Destruction V 6 * 14
30 Demolition Man
-
IV 5 6
31 The Andromeda Strain IV 4 3
32 Empty Space
-
V 5 * 4
33 Andromeda IV 4 ** 116
34 Astroturfer III 4 * 54
35 Torque of the Devil
-
VI 8  
36 Central Crack Route IV 5 ** 132
37 The Crack VI 7 ** 9
38 The Inquisition
-
HVS 5a 2
39 The Inquisition VI 8 ** 6
40 Lagopus V 6  
41 Nivalis
-
III 5 1
42 Snow Bunting
-
IV 5 12
43 Crow's Nest Crack
-
III 6
44 The Executioner
-
VII 7  
45 Reprieve
-
IV 5 *  
Climb name Grade
46 The Couloir I ** 341
47 Ewen Crest IV 5 **  
  Ewen Buttress (No.3 Buttress)
49 Rear Entry
-
IV 5 7
50 Ewen Buttress III 4 ** 219
51 Ewen Me
-
V 5 3
52 Ewen Buttress Direct IV 6 * 38
53 The Vagrant VII 7 ** 6
54 After Dark
-
VII 8  
55 The Migrant VI 7 *** 36
56 Migrant Direct VII 8 ** 2
57 Nocando Crack VIII 8 *** 1
58 The Vicar
-
E1 5a ** 1
59 The Vicar VIII 8 *** 9
60 Siberia
-
E3 5c **  
61 The Demon
-
E2 5b  
62 The Demon IX 9 * 2
63 The Demon Direct IX 9 **  
64 Happy Tyroleans IX ** 1
65 Pfugelule VIII 9 ** 2
66 The Overseer Direct V 6 ** 40
67 The Hoarmaster VI 6 *** 112
68 Hooker's Corner VI 6 ** 40
69 The Snow Pimp VIII 9 ** 2
70 Conundrum VII 7 * 4
71 The Deviant V 6 5
72 Y-Gully Left Branch IV 4 ** 51
73 Stagefright VI 7 * 1
74 Grumbling Groove VI 6 ** 7
75 Never Mind
-
HVS 5a  
76 Never Mind IX 9 *** 7
77 The Head-hunter VI 6 * 5
78 Y-Gully Right Branch II *** 190
  No.4 Buttress
80 Snuffaluffagus IV 5 * 1
81 Oesophagus III ** 77
82 Tracheotomy
-
VI 7 3
83 Puffer
-
S 4a  
84 Puffer
-
V 6 1
85 Puffer Extract
-
V 6 1
86 Deep Throat V 6 ** 122
87 Watergate Scandal E2 5c **  
88 Swallow-tail Pillar
-
HVS 5a * 5
89 Swallow Tail Pillar VII 8 ** 2
90 Aqualung VI 7 * 5
Climb name Grade
91 Gaffer's Groove
-
S 6
92 Gaffer's Groove V 5 * 6
93 Transformer
-
VS 4c  
94 Transformer
-
VII 8 * 1
95 When the Wind Blows
-
VI 7  
96 Bulgy VS 4b * 8
97 Bulgy VII 7 ** 20
98 Savage Slit S *** 482
99 Savage Slit V 6 *** 366
100 Prore
-
VS 4c ** 61
101 Prore VIII 7 ** 3
102 Prore Direct VIII 8 ** 5
103 Fallout Corner
-
VS 4b ** 133
104 Fallout Corner VI 7 *** 116
105 Banana Wall XII *** 2
106 War and Peace
-
HVS 5a  
107 War and Peace VII 8 ** 17
108 Procastination
-
S 4a  
109 Procrastination VII 6 ** 2
110 The Third Man V 6 ** 24
111 Sidewinder III 4 ** 71
112 Sidewinder Direct IV 6 7
113 The Millenium Line
-
VII 7 **  
114 Western Route
-
S ** 4
115 Western Route IV 6 *** 76
116 Occidental discovery V 7 ** 5
117 Torquing West
-
VII 7  
118 Torquing Heads VI 8 * 7
119 Western Slant
-
IV 5 2
120 Cut Adrift
-
III 4 3
121 Siberian Tiger IX ** 1
122 The Gathering IX 9 ** 6
123 The Candy Shop VII 9 * 3
124 Torque of the Devil
-
VS 4c  
125 The Crack
-
VS 4c  
126 Bavarinthia IX 9 ** 1
127 Intravenous Fly Trap * X 10 *** 2
128 Pfugga-Lule VIII 9 **  
129 Sarcophagus IV 4 *  
130 Gaffer's Mixed Finish VI 7 *  
  Routes Added from Rockfax Book
132 The Snowpimp VIII 9 *  
  No.3 Buttress
134 Pic ‘n' Mix VIII 8 *** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Daniel Sutherland