Climbs 45
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 180m a.s.l
Faces W

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Alan James on The Niche (E2) at Lower Falcon (from the Lake District Climbs Rockfax) © Mike Hutton

Crag features

The Falcon Crags are the first of the major Borrowdale cliffs encountered when travelling along the lakeside road from Keswick. The climbing is steep and intimidating but in general exhilarating, highly rewarding and for the most part on good rock. The crag has two major buttresses divided by a steep gully. The brilliant Lower Falcon has both single and multi-pitch routes, the best in the VS to the mid-E grade range. Upper Falcon is topped by a sheer wall of rock with a classic hard line up its middle, although it is not the easiest of places to get to despite its proximity to the road. The crags have a beautiful outlook and have a big feel about them, offering a worthy alternative to the high crags if they are out of condition.

Approach notes

There are three possible parking areas. The main parking is at the start of the Watendlath road. There is limited parking in an old quarry on the left about 50m after turning off of the lakeside road. A useful alternative is at a lay-by on the lakeside road, but this also fills up very quickly. For Upper Falcon, the parking is at the Ashness Bridge National Trust carpark (fee).

Lower Falcon - From the main carpark take the faint path on the left up and over a stile. Follow the path steeply until it levels out below the right-hand side of the crag. A smaller path leads off through the undergrowth up to the base of the crag. The path meets the base of the crag at two large trees in a shallow bay - this is where the route Dedication Direct starts and is a good reference point for locating the other routes. From the lay-by on the lakeside road, take the footpath that starts at a gap in the wall and follow this until another path is reached. Go right and walk to meet the path at the far right-hand end of the crag (poorer paths head up earlier).

Upper Falcon - Park at the National Trust carpark at Ashness Bridge and follow the Walla Crag footpath (see crag approach for more details).

Surely "Dry Grasp" should be "Dry Gasp"?
C Witter - 20/Dec/16
Great crag. Some unlikely situations for the grades and a nice outlook. Seems a bit under-climbed and under-starred for how good the routes are.
AliBaxter - 17/Jun/15
this crag is a bit loose!
joe king - 12/Jul/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Upper Falcon Crag
2 Stumble Bum
-
E4 6a * 1
3 Route 2
-
E1 5b ** 21
4 Qantas
-
E3 6a 1
5 Dry Grasp E4 6a *** 60
6 Route 1 E3 5c *** 35
7 Walk on the Wild Side HVS 5a *  
  Lower Falcon Crag
9 The Push
-
HVS 5a 3
10 Spinup VS 4c ** 217
11 Alternator
-
VS 4c 3
12 The Raging Bull
-
E3 5c 2
13 The Dangler E2 5c ** 51
14 Graviter
-
VS 4c 8
15 Wuthering Heights
-
E2 5c 4
Climb name Grade
16 Hedera Grooves VS 4c ** 259
17 Inarticulate Speech
-
E4 6a  
18 Cyclotron
-
E3 6a 2
19 Stretch HVS 5a ** 35
20 Stretch Direct Finish E2 5c 2
21 Funeral Way HVS 5a * 44
22 Deruptus
-
VS 5a 9
23 Masquerade
-
E2 5c ** 10
24 Close Encounters
-
E3 6a * 7
25 The Niche E2 5c *** 167
26 Star Wars E3 5c ** 21
27 Interloper E1 5c ** 74
28 Premonition
-
E4 6a * 7
29 Dedication E1 5b *** 173
30 Kidnation E1 5b *** 29
Climb name Grade
31 Kidnapped E2 5c *** 75
32 Plagiarism E2 5c *** 115
33 Plagiarism Direct Finish
-
E3 5c *** 7
34 Usurper E1 5a ** 182
35 Vanishing Act E4 5c ** 1
36 Illusion HVS 5a *** 281
37 Joke
-
E3 6a ** 20
38 Lamplighter Eliminate
-
E4 6b 2
39 Lamplighter HVS 5a ** 109
40 Extrapolation E2 5b ** 32
41 The Riddler
-
VS 4c 1
42 The Girdle Traverse
-
E1 5b 10
43 Five Nations of the Iroquois
-
E3 5c * 2
  Unknown/Need Checking
45 Terrierman E4 6a * 1

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