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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 157
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 140m a.s.l
Faces W

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Charlotte Macdonald on Donkey's Ears (HS) at Shepherd's Crag (from Lake District Climbs Rockfax). © Mike Hutton

Crag features

Up to about 50m high. A very popular crag, mainly due to its easy access though many of the routes are of great quality. Brown Slab Routes(D-VS), Finale(HVS), Aaros(E1), Ardus(MVS), Adam and Eve(VS), Kransic Crack(HVS), Fishers Folly(VS), Grasp(E1), Bludgeon(E1), Little Chamonix(VD), Derision Groove(MVS).

Approach notes

Park at the cafe below the crag if there is room(refreshment stop obligatory!). Five to ten minute approach.

Descent from Brown Slabs area has the potential for nasty accidents with some very green greasy holdless slabs above steep ground. To avoid these, after about 15 metres go rightwards over the rocky rib to reach a much more amenable descent. If you have novice climbers with you, take note.
Rog Wilko - 14/Jun/17
I am currently trying to tidy the fixed gear near the top of Little Chamonix, please either assist in removing this or leave it as you find it. Please refrain from pushing the cams deeper into the crack as this will only make them harder to remove. Thanks. Duncan
sparkass - 18/Aug/16
Great crag for it accessibility. Grade range for all climbers. Harder routes not so polished, and definitely not over rated.
ben_armstrong - 10/Aug/15
Have had two ticks after a visit 26/06/10. Remember to check your skin carefully. Otherwise a great crag made even better by the nearby cafe!
Steve Palmer - 29/Jun/10
Busy, polished and over rated.
camw - 23/Jun/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Brown Crag Wall Area
2 Free "n" easy
-
HS 8
3 Final Act
-
E2 5c 1
4 Groove and Crack
-
VS 4b 25
5 Meet on the Ledge
-
HVS 7
6 Brown Crag Traverse
-
VS 4c * 15
7 Downer's Delight
-
E1 5b 1
8 Dark Matters E3 6a ** 3
9 Vespa VS 5a * 8
10 Vesper
-
VS 4c ** 62
11 Parlaphone
-
E2 5c 2
12 American Beauty
-
E5 6b 2
13 Dire Straits
-
E3 6a * 3
14 Rough Boys
-
E5 6c 1
15 Parting Shot
-
E6 6b  
16 Brown Crag Grooves E1 5b ** 191
17 Brown Crag Grooves Direct
-
E3 6a 4
18 Seamus
-
HVS 5b * 12
19 Brown Crag Wall VS 4b ** 660
20 Frontline
-
HVS 5a * 13
21 Theseus
-
E1 5b 6
22 Could Be The Last
-
E1 5b 2
23 Conclusion E1 5b *** 716
24 Evolution
-
E2 5c 8
25 Rattle
-
MVS 4b 7
26 PTO
-
VS 4c 16
  Brown Slabs Area
28 Brown Slabs Face HVD *** 859
29 Brown Slabs Arete D *** 1545
30 Brown Slabs Direct VD *** 2305
31 Brown Slabs D ** 1896
32 Brown Slabs Scoop HS ** 245
33 Brown Slabs Crack VS 4c ** 1391
34 Brown Slabs Crack Original MS 226
35 Shadow Wall
-
E3 5c ** 2
36 Brown Slabs Traverse
-
VS 4c 25
  100' Slab Area
38 Gibbon Variation
-
HVS 5b 6
39 100 Foot Slab
-
M 15
40 Sylvan Way
-
MS 5
  North Buttress
42 A Few Dollars More
-
VS 4c 4
43 A Fistful of Dollars
-
VS 4c * 25
44 North Buttress Girdle
-
E1 5b 3
45 Desperation S * 89
46 Tarzan
-
E2 5c 2
47 Imago
-
E1 5c 22
48 Finale HVS 5a *** 748
49 Scallywag
-
E3 6a  
50 Jaws E1 5b ** 153
51 Slings
-
VS 4b * 49
52 Encore E1 5b * 20
53 Evel Kneivel HVS 5a ** 176
54 Ovation
-
E1 5b ** 44
55 Aaros E1 5b *** 589
Climb name Grade
56 Saturday Night Beaver
-
E3 6a * 9
57 Ardus - Direct Finish VS 4c ** 185
58 Short Notice
-
VS 4b * 49
59 Ardus VS 4b *** 1968
60 Savage Messiah
-
E3 6a * 13
61 Sin
-
VS 4c * 10
62 Golden Delicious
-
E2 5c 2
63 Delight Maker HVS 5a ** 203
64 Magnetic North
-
E1 5b ** 29
65 Eve VS 4c *** 1505
66 Katherine
-
HVS 5a * 19
67 Adam VS 5a *** 1456
68 Crunchy Frog E1 5b ** 114
69 True North E2 5b ** 216
70 Central Girdle
-
VS 4c ** 14
71 North Buttress E1 5b * 236
72 North Butress (variant) VS 4c 3
73 P.S. E1 5b ** 369
74 P.S. Direct Finish
-
E3 6a 18
75 P.P.S.
-
E2 5c 11
76 Gemma HVS 5b * 83
77 Turning the North
-
VD * 55
  Bluebell Wall Area
79 Shepherd's Delight
-
MS 39
80 Symbiosis
-
HVS 5b 3
81 Bluebell Wall
-
VD 4
82 Attic Stairs
-
M 9
  Fisher's Folly Buttress
84 Chamonix Girdle
-
HVS 4c ** 6
85 Stoned Again
-
HVS 5b 6
86 Stony Silence
-
HVS 5b 5
87 Hollow Stones
-
VD 14
88 North Ridge
-
VD 14
89 T.D.M.
-
HVS 5a 8
90 C.D.M. VS 4c ** 454
91 M.G.C. E2 5c *** 822
92 Shanna
-
E2 5c 34
93 Fishers Folly VS 4c *** 1955
94 Fishers Folly Direct Finish
-
VS 4c, 5a 147
95 Twittering Heights
-
E4 6a * 7
96 Kransic Crack VS 4c ** 451
97 Lower Girdle of Fisher's Folly Buttress
-
MVS 4b 7
98 Kransic Crack Direct HVS 5a *** 1362
99 Creeping Jesus HVS 5a ** 566
100 The Grasp E1 5b ** 316
101 The Grasp Direct E3 5c  
102 Poop and Clutch
-
E2 5c 10
103 Chamonix HS 4b ** 775
104 True Cross VS 4c ** 124
  Chamonix Area
106 Milk E2 5c 1
107 Cream
-
HVS 5a * 41
108 Crescendo HS 4b * 755
109 The Bludgeon E1 5b *** 576
110 Missing Link finish to Bludgeon
-
E3 5c 5
Climb name Grade
111 Little Chamonix VD *** 5651
112 Scorpion VS 5a * 81
113 Hee-Haw VS 5a * 59
114 Straight and Narrow
-
E3 6a ** 9
115 Hippos Might Fly
-
E1 5a * 39
116 Monolith Crack HVS 4c ** 279
117 Monolith Chimney
-
S 4a 29
118 Exasperation
-
E3 6a 9
119 Porcupine E3 6a ** 95
120 The Black Icicle E1 5b ** 324
121 Devil's Wedge E1 5a ** 62
122 Porcupine / Devil's Wedge E1 5a ** 1
123 The Witness
-
E6 6b  
124 Geronimo E7 6c * 8
125 The Devil's Alternative E6 6b ** 33
126 Woody's Alternative E6 6c ** 1
127 Bob Martins
-
E2 5b * 6
128 Rogue's Gallery
-
VS 5a * 24
129 Rob's Route
-
E3 6a 2
130 Wild Side E3 6a ** 38
131 Wild Sheep E2 5b *** 173
132 Black Sheep E2 5b *** 43
133 Derision Groove
-
MVS 4b ** 422
134 Ker Plunk
-
E5 6a * 2
135 Inclination E5 6b ** 11
136 Exclamation
-
E6 6b *  
137 Shepherd's Chimney VS 5a ** 237
138 Thin Air
-
HVS 5a * 43
139 Shepherd's Gully
-
MVS 4b ** 124
140 Battering Ram E3 6a *** 119
141 Stone Tape
-
E3 6a ** 38
142 Entertainment Traverse E2 5c *  
143 The Fou
-
E2 5c 5
144 Donkey's Ears S 4a ** 1309
145 Donkey's Ears Chimney Start MVS 29
146 Mule Train
-
E2 5c 9
147 Bits 'n' Pieces VS 4c * 111
148 Human Racing
-
E3 5c 1
149 Ant Highway VS 4b * 318
150 Odds 'n' Sods
-
E2 5c 6
151 Ethelred
-
HVS 5a 25
152 Jackdaw Ridge Direct VD ** 368
153 Jackdaw Ridge D * 1079
154 Plug
-
E1 5b 9
155 Why Not
-
MVS 4b 99
156 Just Another Expedition
-
HVS ** 7
157 Double Cream HVS 5a *  
158 Derision Groove/Shepherd's Gully VS 4b * 1
  Upper Shepherds
160 Tup D 25
161 Ram VD 34
162 Ewe D 32
163 Lamb VD 34
164 EZY D 22
165 Sheepdog D 23

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