UKC

Climbs 148
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 140m a.s.l
Faces W

Chris Bonington still climbing at 78. Legend © Paluchi

Crag features

Up to about 50m high. A very popular crag, mainly due to its easy access though many of the routes are of great quality. Brown Slab Routes(D-VS), Finale(HVS), Aaros(E1), Ardus(MVS), Adam and Eve(VS), Kransic Crack(HVS), Fishers Folly(VS), Grasp(E1), Bludgeon(E1), Little Chamonix(VD), Derision Groove(MVS).

Approach notes

Park at the cafe below the crag if there is room(refreshment stop obligatory!). Five to ten minute approach.

Guidebooks

Descent from Brown Slabs area has the potential for nasty accidents with some very green greasy holdless slabs above steep ground. To avoid these, after about 15 metres go rightwards over the rocky rib to reach a much more amenable descent. If you have novice climbers with you, take note.
Rog Wilko - 14/Jun/17
I am currently trying to tidy the fixed gear near the top of Little Chamonix, please either assist in removing this or leave it as you find it. Please refrain from pushing the cams deeper into the crack as this will only make them harder to remove. Thanks. Duncan
sparkass - 18/Aug/16
Great crag for it accessibility. Grade range for all climbers. Harder routes not so polished, and definitely not over rated.
ben_armstrong - 10/Aug/15
Have had two ticks after a visit 26/06/10. Remember to check your skin carefully. Otherwise a great crag made even better by the nearby cafe!
Steve Palmer - 29/Jun/10
Busy, polished and over rated.
camw - 23/Jun/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Brown Crag Wall Area
2 Free "n" easy
-
HS 6
3 Final Act
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E2 5c 1
4 Groove and Crack
-
VS 4b 25
5 Meet on the Ledge
-
HVS 6
6 Brown Crag Traverse
-
VS 4c * 15
7 Downer's Delight
-
E1 5b 1
8 Dark Matters E3 6a ** 3
9 Vespa VS 5a * 8
10 Vesper
-
VS 4c ** 56
11 Parlaphone
-
E2 5c 2
12 American Beauty
-
E5 6b 2
13 Dire Straits
-
E3 6a * 3
14 Rough Boys
-
E5 6c 1
15 Parting Shot
-
E6 6b  
16 Brown Crag Grooves
-
E1 5b ** 175
17 Brown Crag Grooves Direct
-
E3 6a 4
18 Seamus
-
HVS 5b * 11
19 Brown Crag Wall
-
VS 4b ** 602
20 Frontline
-
HVS 5a * 12
21 Theseus
-
E1 5b 5
22 Could Be The Last
-
E1 5b 2
23 Conclusion E1 5b ** 653
24 Evolution
-
E2 5c 8
25 Rattle
-
MVS 4b 7
26 PTO
-
VS 4c 16
  Brown Slabs Area
28 Brown Slabs Face
-
VD ** 749
29 Brown Slabs Arete
-
D *** 1412
30 Brown Slabs Direct
-
VD *** 2069
31 Brown Slabs
-
D ** 1709
32 Brown Slabs Scoop HS ** 166
33 Brown Slabs Crack
-
VS 4c ** 1272
34 Brown Slabs Crack Original MS 214
35 Shadow Wall
-
E3 5c ** 2
36 Brown Slabs Traverse
-
VS 4c 25
  100' Slab Area
38 Gibbon Variation
-
HVS 5b 6
39 100 Foot Slab
-
M 15
40 Sylvan Way
-
MS 5
  North Buttress
42 A Few Dollars More
-
VS 4c 3
43 A Fistful of Dollars
-
VS 4c * 20
44 North Buttress Girdle
-
E1 5b 3
45 Desperation S * 81
46 Tarzan
-
E2 5c 2
47 Imago
-
E1 5c 21
48 Finale
-
HVS 5a *** 632
49 Scallywag
-
E3 6a  
50 Jaws E1 5b ** 123
51 Slings
-
VS 4b * 47
52 encore HVS 5a ** 13
Climb name Grade
53 Evel Kneivel
-
HVS 5a ** 160
54 Ovation
-
E1 5b ** 33
55 Aaros
-
E1 5b *** 508
56 Saturday Night Beaver
-
E3 6a * 9
57 Ardus - Direct Finish VS 4c ** 170
58 Short Notice
-
VS 4b * 46
59 Ardus
-
MVS 4b *** 1769
60 Savage Messiah
-
E3 6a * 13
61 Sin
-
VS 4c * 10
62 Golden Delicious
-
E2 5c 2
63 Delight Maker
-
HVS 5a ** 172
64 Magnetic North
-
E1 5b ** 24
65 Eve
-
VS 4c *** 1350
66 Katherine
-
HVS 5a * 15
67 Adam
-
VS 5a *** 1294
68 Crunchy Frog HVS 5a ** 102
69 True North E2 5b ** 166
70 Central Girdle
-
VS 4c ** 12
71 North Buttress E1 5b ** 192
72 North Butress (variant) VS 4c 3
73 P.S.
-
E1 5b ** 325
74 P.S. Direct Finish
-
E3 6a 14
75 P.P.S.
-
E2 5c 11
76 Gemma HVS 5b * 64
77 Turning the North
-
VD * 52
  Bluebell Wall Area
79 Shepherd's Delight
-
MS 38
80 Symbiosis
-
HVS 5b 3
81 Bluebell Wall
-
VD 4
82 Attic Stairs
-
M 10
  Fisher's Folly Buttress
84 Chamonix Girdle
-
HVS 4c ** 6
85 Stoned Again
-
HVS 5b 6
86 Stony Silence
-
HVS 5b 5
87 Hollow Stones
-
VD 13
88 North Ridge
-
VD 13
89 T.D.M.
-
HVS 5a 7
90 C.D.M. VS 4c ** 392
91 M.G.C. E2 5c ** 737
92 Shanna
-
E2 5c 32
93 Fishers Folly
-
VS 4c *** 1754
94 Fishers Folly Direct Finish
-
VS 4c, 5a 137
95 Twittering Heights
-
E4 6a * 5
96 Kransic Crack
-
VS 4c ** 399
97 Lower Girdle of Fisher's Folly Buttress
-
MVS 4b 7
98 Kransic Crack Direct
-
HVS 5a *** 1197
99 Creeping Jesus
-
HVS 5a ** 482
100 The Grasp
-
E1 5b ** 284
101 The Grasp Direct E3 5c  
102 Poop and Clutch
-
E2 5c 8
103 Chamonix
-
HS 4b ** 656
104 True Cross
-
VS 4c ** 100
Climb name Grade
  Chamonix Area
106 Milk E2 5c 1
107 Cream
-
HVS 5a * 36
108 Crescendo HS * 701
109 The Bludgeon
-
E1 5b *** 504
110 Missing Link finish to Bludgeon
-
E3 5c 3
111 Little Chamonix
-
VD *** 4994
112 Scorpion
-
VS 4b * 64
113 Hee-Haw
-
VS 5a 56
114 Straight and Narrow
-
E3 6a ** 9
115 Hippos Might Fly
-
E1 5a * 36
116 Monolith Crack
-
HVS 4c ** 251
117 Monolith Chimney
-
S 4a 25
118 Exasperation
-
E3 6a 9
119 Porcupine E3 6a ** 85
120 The Black Icicle
-
E1 5b ** 282
121 Devil's Wedge
-
HVS 5a ** 56
122 The Witness
-
E6 6b  
123 Geronimo
-
E6 6c ** 6
124 The Devil's Alternative E6 6b * 26
125 Woody's Alternative E6 6c ** 1
126 Bob Martins
-
E2 5b * 6
127 Rogue's Gallery
-
VS 5a * 22
128 Rob's Route
-
E3 6a 2
129 Wild Side
-
E3 6a * 34
130 Wild Sheep E2 5b *** 133
131 Black Sheep
-
E2 5b ** 35
132 Derision Groove
-
MVS 4b ** 369
133 Ker Plunk
-
E5 6a * 2
134 Inclination
-
E4 6b ** 9
135 Exclamation
-
E6 6b *  
136 Shepherd's Chimney VS 5a ** 195
137 Thin Air
-
HVS 5a * 34
138 Shepherd's Gully
-
MVS 4b ** 114
139 Battering Ram
-
E3 5c ** 104
140 Stone Tape
-
E3 6a ** 36
141 The Fou
-
E2 5c 5
142 Donkey's Ears S 4a ** 1194
143 Donkey's Ears Chimney Start MVS 26
144 Mule Train
-
E2 5c 8
145 Bits 'n' Pieces
-
VS 4c * 95
146 Human Racing
-
E3 5c 1
147 Ant Highway
-
MVS 4b * 296
148 Odds 'n' Sods
-
E2 5c 6
149 Ethelred
-
HVS 5a 23
150 Jackdaw Ridge Direct
-
VD ** 326
151 Jackdaw Ridge
-
D * 958
152 Plug
-
E1 5b 9
153 Why Not
-
MVS 4b 96
154 Just Another Expedition
-
HVS ** 6

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