UKC

Climbs 148
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 140m a.s.l
Faces W

Chris Bonington still climbing at 78. Legend © Paluchi

Crag features

Up to about 50m high. A very popular crag, mainly due to its easy access though many of the routes are of great quality. Brown Slab Routes(D-VS), Finale(HVS), Aaros(E1), Ardus(MVS), Adam and Eve(VS), Kransic Crack(HVS), Fishers Folly(VS), Grasp(E1), Bludgeon(E1), Little Chamonix(VD), Derision Groove(MVS).

Approach notes

Park at the cafe below the crag if there is room(refreshment stop obligatory!). Five to ten minute approach.

Guidebooks

Descent from Brown Slabs area has the potential for nasty accidents with some very green greasy holdless slabs above steep ground. To avoid these, after about 15 metres go rightwards over the rocky rib to reach a much more amenable descent. If you have novice climbers with you, take note.
Rog Wilko - 14/Jun/17
I am currently trying to tidy the fixed gear near the top of Little Chamonix, please either assist in removing this or leave it as you find it. Please refrain from pushing the cams deeper into the crack as this will only make them harder to remove. Thanks. Duncan
sparkass - 18/Aug/16
Great crag for it accessibility. Grade range for all climbers. Harder routes not so polished, and definitely not over rated.
ben_armstrong - 10/Aug/15
Have had two ticks after a visit 26/06/10. Remember to check your skin carefully. Otherwise a great crag made even better by the nearby cafe!
Steve Palmer - 29/Jun/10
Busy, polished and over rated.
camw - 23/Jun/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Brown Crag Wall Area
2 Free "n" easy
-
HS 6
3 Final Act
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E2 5c 1
4 Groove and Crack
-
VS 4b 25
5 Meet on the Ledge
-
HVS 6
6 Brown Crag Traverse
-
VS 4c * 15
7 Downer's Delight
-
E1 5b 1
8 Dark Matters E3 6a ** 3
9 Vespa VS 5a * 8
10 Vesper
-
VS 4c ** 52
11 Parlaphone
-
E2 5c 2
12 American Beauty
-
E5 6b 2
13 Dire Straits
-
E3 6a * 3
14 Rough Boys
-
E5 6c 1
15 Parting Shot
-
E6 6b  
16 Brown Crag Grooves
-
E1 5b ** 167
17 Brown Crag Grooves Direct
-
E3 6a 4
18 Seamus
-
HVS 5b * 10
19 Brown Crag Wall
-
VS 4b ** 586
20 Frontline
-
HVS 5a * 12
21 Theseus
-
E1 5b 5
22 Could Be The Last
-
E1 5b 2
23 Conclusion E1 5b ** 630
24 Evolution
-
E2 5c 6
25 Rattle
-
MVS 4b 7
26 PTO
-
VS 4c 15
  Brown Slabs Area
28 Brown Slabs Face
-
VD ** 723
29 Brown Slabs Arete
-
D *** 1377
30 Brown Slabs Direct
-
VD *** 2013
31 Brown Slabs
-
D ** 1661
32 Brown Slabs Scoop HS ** 140
33 Brown Slabs Crack
-
VS 4c ** 1234
34 Brown Slabs Crack Original MS 212
35 Shadow Wall
-
E3 5c ** 2
36 Brown Slabs Traverse
-
VS 4c 24
  100' Slab Area
38 Gibbon Variation
-
HVS 5b 6
39 100 Foot Slab
-
M 15
40 Sylvan Way
-
MS 5
  North Buttress
42 A Few Dollars More
-
VS 4c 3
43 A Fistful of Dollars
-
VS 4c * 19
44 North Buttress Girdle
-
E1 5b 3
45 Desperation S * 79
46 Tarzan
-
E2 5c 2
47 Imago
-
E1 5c 21
48 Finale
-
HVS 5a *** 607
49 Scallywag
-
E3 6a  
50 Jaws E1 5b ** 117
51 Slings
-
VS 4b * 45
Climb name Grade
52 encore HVS 5a ** 13
53 Evel Kneivel
-
HVS 5a ** 151
54 Ovation
-
E1 5b ** 30
55 Aaros
-
E1 5b *** 480
56 Saturday Night Beaver
-
E3 6a * 5
57 Ardus - Direct Finish VS 4c ** 167
58 Short Notice
-
VS 4b * 44
59 Ardus
-
MVS 4b *** 1724
60 Savage Messiah
-
E3 6a * 12
61 Sin
-
VS 4c * 10
62 Golden Delicious
-
E2 5c 2
63 Delight Maker
-
HVS 5a ** 170
64 Magnetic North
-
E1 5b ** 24
65 Eve
-
VS 4c *** 1298
66 Katherine
-
HVS 5a * 15
67 Adam
-
VS 5a *** 1246
68 Crunchy Frog HVS 5a ** 101
69 True North E2 5b ** 157
70 Central Girdle
-
VS 4c ** 12
71 North Buttress E1 5b ** 186
72 North Butress (variant) VS 4c 3
73 P.S.
-
E1 5b ** 314
74 P.S. Direct Finish
-
E3 6a 14
75 P.P.S.
-
E2 5c 11
76 Gemma HVS 5b * 54
77 Turning the North
-
VD * 50
  Bluebell Wall Area
79 Shepherd's Delight
-
MS 37
80 Symbiosis
-
HVS 5b 3
81 Bluebell Wall
-
VD 4
82 Attic Stairs
-
M 10
  Fisher's Folly Buttress
84 Chamonix Girdle
-
HVS 4c ** 6
85 Stoned Again
-
HVS 5b 5
86 Stony Silence
-
HVS 5b 5
87 Hollow Stones
-
VD 13
88 North Ridge
-
VD 12
89 T.D.M.
-
HVS 5a 7
90 C.D.M. VS 4c ** 379
91 M.G.C. E2 5c ** 711
92 Shanna
-
E2 5c 31
93 Fishers Folly
-
VS 4c *** 1682
94 Fishers Folly Direct Finish
-
VS 4c, 5a 129
95 Twittering Heights
-
E4 6a * 5
96 Kransic Crack
-
VS 4c ** 380
97 Lower Girdle of Fisher's Folly Buttress
-
MVS 4b 7
98 Kransic Crack Direct
-
HVS 5a *** 1154
99 Creeping Jesus
-
HVS 5a ** 459
100 The Grasp
-
E1 5b ** 274
101 Poop and Clutch
-
E2 5c 8
102 Chamonix
-
HS 4b ** 635
Climb name Grade
103 True Cross
-
VS 4c ** 98
  Chamonix Area
105 Milk E2 5c 1
106 Cream
-
HVS 5a * 35
107 Crescendo HS * 689
108 The Bludgeon
-
E1 5b *** 465
109 Missing Link finish to Bludgeon
-
E3 5c 3
110 Little Chamonix
-
VD *** 4839
111 Scorpion
-
VS 4b * 63
112 Hee-Haw
-
VS 5a 56
113 Straight and Narrow
-
E3 6a ** 9
114 Hippos Might Fly
-
E1 5a * 35
115 Monolith Crack
-
HVS 4c ** 246
116 Monolith Chimney
-
S 4a 23
117 Exasperation
-
E3 6a 9
118 Porcupine E3 6a ** 83
119 The Black Icicle
-
E1 5b ** 272
120 Devil's Wedge
-
HVS 5a ** 55
121 The Witness
-
E6 6b  
122 Geronimo
-
E6 6c ** 6
123 The Devil's Alternative E6 6b * 26
124 Woody's Alternative E6 6c ** 1
125 Bob Martins
-
E2 5b * 6
126 Rogue's Gallery
-
VS 5a * 22
127 Rob's Route
-
E3 6a 2
128 Wild Side
-
E3 6a * 32
129 Wild Sheep E2 5b *** 122
130 Black Sheep
-
E2 5b ** 35
131 Derision Groove
-
MVS 4b ** 359
132 Ker Plunk
-
E5 6a * 2
133 Inclination
-
E4 6b ** 8
134 Exclamation
-
E6 6b *  
135 Shepherd's Chimney VS 5a ** 182
136 Thin Air
-
HVS 5a * 32
137 Shepherd's Gully
-
MVS 4b ** 113
138 Battering Ram
-
E3 5c ** 97
139 Stone Tape
-
E3 6a ** 36
140 The Fou
-
E2 5c 5
141 Donkey's Ears S 4a ** 1152
142 Donkey's Ears Chimney Start MVS 24
143 Mule Train
-
E2 5c 8
144 Bits 'n' Pieces
-
VS 4c * 93
145 Human Racing
-
E3 5c 1
146 Ant Highway
-
MVS 4b * 294
147 Odds 'n' Sods
-
E2 5c 6
148 Ethelred
-
HVS 5a 23
149 Jackdaw Ridge Direct
-
VD ** 310
150 Jackdaw Ridge
-
D * 940
151 Plug
-
E1 5b 9
152 Why Not
-
MVS 4b 92
153 Just Another Expedition
-
HVS ** 6

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